THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Rome (Rome) ne fu[t] (not) pas faite toute (done) en un jour (in one day.)
And yet, people still try to see it in 8 hours, or less, off a cruise ship.
I have been to Rome a dozen(?) times and still am scratching the surface.
So if most people do not schedule time for Rome, what about the many half and full-day destinations nearby?
These sites don’t stand a chance.
Let’s take a stroll through one today.
Tivoli (Tibur.)
Euripides, circa 420 B.C., mentions an attack on Thebes by the “seven.” One of these seven is Amphiaraus. If you shake his mythological family tree hard enough, Helen of Troy and Clytemnestra will fall out.
Catillus the Arcadian, son of Amphiaraus, kills his mother and flees to the west. He finds some Sicilians living in an area with fresh water and drives them away. He begins a village he calls Tibur after his son Tiburtus.
Non-mythical history dates Tivoli to circa 1213 B.C.
Tivoli in the Renaissance.
During the middle ages, Tivoli would battle nearby Rome for control over the Lazio region. Finally, Rome grows so large that Tivoli cannot compete.
From then on, popes and cardinals erected stately buildings in Tivoli to display their power.
Circa 1550, Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este commissions Villa d’Este.
He is the second son of Duke Alfonso I d’Este and Lucrezia Borgia. His older brother is Duke of Ferrara, and his grandfather is Pope Alexander VI. Obviously, he receives his title of cardinal based on merit only.
He pillages the nearby ancient summer villa of Emperor Hadrian, Villa Adriana. He leaves very few of the marbles and statues. When he dies circa 1592, his heirs will continue to upgrade the Villa’s gardens.
By 1695, the Este family could no longer sustain the high cost of maintaining the Villa. Part of this is because it produces no income. So for the next 50 years, Villa D’Este will sit empty.
Eventually, the family moves much of the furnishings and decorations to their city palaces. Finally, the remaining furnishings and sculptures go to collectors.
Circa 1850, Cardinal Gustav von Hohenlohe restores Villa D’Este and its gardens. He hosts artists, writers, and musicians, including composer Franz Liszt, who will compose three pieces of water-inspired music.
The Italian government takes control of Villa D’Este after the First World War. It suffers bomb damage during World War II.
What you see today is a lovely mansion, although little of its original structure and decoration remain. By itself, it is worth seeing. However, it may not seem so impressive if you are seeing it after a week of Roman palaces.
Tivoli’s Fountains.
The main draw of the UNESCO site Villa d’Este, Tivoli is the gardens and fountains. The fountains are an incredible feat of engineering as they use no pumps. Instead, gravity supplies water pressure to the 51 fountains. Within the fountains are hundreds of spouts and jets. There are also more than 60 waterfalls within the garden. The gardens, cascading down a steep hillside, require steps to reach the lower park.
Sanctuary of Hercules Victor.
Dating from circa 2nd century B.C., this Roman complex makes a statement. It consists of three parts: a theatre, a large square, and a temple. It showcases the spectacular architecture of that time on an imposing scale.
Even the site, towering over the Aniene river, is impressive. The road approaching Tivoli from Rome would pass under the complex through a tunnel.
The Sanctuary to Hercules would lose importance with the upswing of Christianity. With its excellent location near a source of water, industries begin taking over the complex. These will include mills, a foundry, and later a power plant.
By 2015, the city reopens the complex as a historical site. The theater hosts outdoor productions in the summer. The Sanctuary is a pleasant 15-minute walk downhill from the Villa, going north.
Mensa Ponderaria.
As Italian villages go, the signage in Tivoli is not bad. This is good, as much of Tivoli’s old section is pedestrian-only. However, the Ponderia seems to have fewer signs. It is adjacent to the Duomo, so head for the Cathedral of San Lorenzo if in doubt.
A mensae is a table that holds official weights. This structure, possibly from circa 20 B.C., was a weighing house sitting in the forum of Tibur. They discover it by chance circa 1883 by uncovering two marble mensae.
The interior is off-limits, but you can walk around two of the sides, which are interesting. This site makes a great detour between the Sanctuary and the Villa.
Villa Gregoriana.
This park is a leisurely and scenic walk 15 minutes east of the Villa. After a destructive flood in 1835 wipes out much of the river’s bed, Pope Gregory XVI commissions repairs. There are signs of hydraulics dating from Roman times.
Today the park stretches across the river gorge. It consists of paths passing through the thick vegetation to reach the caves of Neptune and the Sirens. Finally, it passes cascades and reaches the Great Waterfall. This walk is a serious step master workout.
Temple of Vestra.
A leisurely five-minute walk from the park is this early 1st century B.C. temple. It sits on what was the acropolis of the city. The circular marble structure overlooks the Villa Gregoriana. Vestra is the Roman goddess of the hearth, home, and family.
Temple of the Sybil.
The rectangular temple next to the Temple of Vestra is a bit of a mystery. They are unsure if it praises Hercules, the town’s protecting god, or Tiburnus, the city’s founder. A third option is Albunea, the Sibyl (Greek prophetesses or oracle) of Tibur.
Both temples are visible on the edge of the river gorge. My favorite view is from the Restaurant Il Ciocco, also on the gorge’s rim. My goal is to get back and see the view at night with lights on the temples.
Bieso Amphitheater.
What would you say if I said there is a Roman amphitheater dating to circa 150 A.D.? What if I said it is less than a 4-minute walk from the Villa? Before 1948, the locals would not believe it. While excavating for a new road, the workers uncover the structure. It is open to the public in the summer and winter and is free. That means bringing a big imagination with you as there is not enough to warrant an entry fee.
Tivoli’s Rocca Pia.
Overlooking the arena is this medieval castle with four towers you can see from the Villa. The pope commissions the fort circa 1461 to control the city and keep himself safe from popular uprisings. Later, it will serve as a prison. Unfortunately, on my last visit (2018), it was still closed with no plans for the future.
Tivoli Summary.
Tivoli is about a 40-minute drive east of the center of Rome by car. There is also a train service which takes about an hour each way.
These are just some of the things to see and do in Tivoli.
Strolling is also a great choice. The architecture, doorways, arches, windows, and tiny passageways can keep a photographer busy all day.
There’s a civic museum housed in an 18th century Palazzo and Gothic houses. You can easily spend a day.
Another popular itinerary is to visit the fountains and the nearby UNESCO Villa Adriana. The villa is approximately 15 minutes from Tivoli.
Whatever you choose, add a few days to your visit to Rome. You cannot see Rome in a day.
Read more about Rome.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.