October 20, 2019 – Nafplio

THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION

WHERE TO?                       TASTE.                        SEE

Nafplio has a bit of an identity crisis as it has so many names on its bio. It would have different names under the Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman occupations. Finally settling on Nafplion or Nafplio in the 1800s. However you pronounce it, Nafplion is worth a visit.

History

For the first several thousand years, the area of today’s Nafplion was a backwater. That seems unusual when it has such an excellent location for an acropolis and fortress.

The problem is, they do not build a great fortress, and the area is under occupation most of the time.

In 1514, the Ottomans took up residence. The Venetians, previous occupants, win it back in 1685 and build the castle of Palamidi, to strengthen the city’s defenses. Unfortunately, they left very few soldiers, so in 1715, the Ottomans were back. They remain until 1827.

Nafplion Getting its Greek Back.

After putting up a brave fight, thanks to the Venetian fortifications, the Ottomans finally fall to the Greeks during the Greek War of Independence.

The following year, 1828, the Greeks make Ioannis Kapodistrias, the first head of state of the new provisional government. They place it in Nafplion.

After his assassination in 1831, they establish the Kingdom of Greece and name Otto of Bavaria as their King in 1832. He moves the capital to Athens two years later.

Thanks to its colorful past, Nafplion has a wealth of treasures to show you today.

Nafplion Today.

Just in the city, you have the ancient Greek walls, Byzantine castles, Ottoman fountains, and Venetian architecture. Nearby, you have UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Nafplion, to me, rarely feels crowded in comparison.

There is the occasional cruise ship, but the majority of these are under 1000 guests. And, there is the usual end of summer crush.

But outside of these times, it just does not have the crowd claustrophobia of cities and ports the mega-ships visit. It has its touristy areas, but you can see the real Nafplion as well.

I love to walk the pedestrian streets of the old town section. You have a different style of architecture with every block you walk. Hear the children playing and the mothers calling to one another. Without cars, you can hear your surroundings.

Nafplion has a Syntagma Square, just like Athens. You can use this as a meeting/starting point and wander the lanes.

Hidden courtyards are home to cafes that feature the unique Peloponessian cuisine. The food alone is worth the visit. Nafplion is a food lover’s hot spot.

Old tavernas and wine shops offer tastes from the local vineyards. The sea air waifs in from the bay and mixes with home cooking. Can you smell it?

Sip a glass of wine in the region where they are growing the grape.

This goal is not hard to accomplish. Nafplion is within driving distance from three of the Peloponnese’s award-winning wine regions. You can easily spend a day just exploring them.

SHOULD SEE SITES.

Acronauplia – is where it all began. This ancient site overlooks the old town from the end of the peninsula. Some call it the lower castle. The first city, from the Bronze age, was within this fortification. There are remnants of the old walls in the western part of the castle.

Acronafplia was built upon and modified by the Romans, Franks, Venetians, and Turks. You can drive up or hike to the area.

Bourtzi – Sits on a small island in the harbor and is the symbol of Nafplion since 1471. This Venetian fortress has weapons on all sides. They also built an underwater “wall” of rocks so that large ships are unable to approach the island. 

Palamidi Fort – sits on the highest point of the peninsula overlooking everything. It is an excellent example of Venetian fortification construction and remains, for the most part, in the original condition. Construction began in 1711. Unfortunately, the Ottomans were able to seize it four years later.

You can drive to the fort or climb the steps. How many are there? It all depends on who you ask. They call it the 999 steps, but the part visible from below is actually between 857 and 913. (Depending on where you start counting to the bottom of the fortification. To reach the highest part of the fort is 999 steps from the town below.

I did mention you can drive up?

Around the City.

Philellion Square – Is an excellent meeting/starting point to explore the city. More pie shape than square, it faces the waterfront and splits the old town in two. From here, you should be able to walk anywhere in the old section in 15 minutes or less.

Syntagma Square – is the heart of the old town. Neoclassical style buildings and a little byzantine architecture create a charming backdrop to this social center. At the east end is a building from the 1500s that was once a mosque.

Much later, it was a movie theater, the Trianon. Many still call it by that name today. It is one of the oldest buildings in Naplion’s old town.

The Archaeological Museum – sits at the west end of Syntagma Square in what was once the Venetian arsenal, dating from 1713. During WWII, it was the German’s interrogation center. The collection has items from this region dating back to (perhaps) 22,000 B.C.

Vas. Konstantinos.

This street leads away from Syntagma Square to the east. The Megalos Dromos, or Great Road, was the main street of the new Greek city. Ioannis Kapodistrias, Greece’s first president, has it built to connect his Little Palace with Syntagma Square.

In the early morning, I have it all to myself. But I share with a few shop owners and an occasional jogger.

Komboloi Chaplet Museum – is a private museum with chaplets from all over the world. A chaplet is a string of 55 beads for counting prayers. (a rosary has 115, three times as many.) Numbering close to 1000, they are from amber, red coral, ivory, bone, antler, ebony, and other materials.

War Museum – is a two-story museum chronicling the history of the local cadets. Exhibits start with the Greek War of Independence and go through WWII. It also has artifacts from the Army Cadet School.

Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation (PFF) is a private museum and foundation, whose goal is the research, preservation, study, and presentation of the material culture of the Peloponnese, and also Greece.

The museum has won awards for its collection of books, documents, ceramics, furniture, and costumes. They cover Hellenic (Greek) customs, cultures, fashion, and children.

Off the Vas. Konstantinos.

Porta della Terraferma – (The Land Gate) was at one time the only way into the walled city from the land. The current entrance (remains of) is from 1708. Once there was a moat bringing water from the sea, making you cross a drawbridge to access the opening.

At sunset, they would close the gate and raise the bridge. The entrance is one block southeast of Platia Trion Navachon. Adjacent to the gate is the neo-classical Courthouse, dating from 1911. Take a peek inside to see old Nafplion.

New Town.

National Gallery – contains a collection of art focusing on Greece during the War of Independence and the time soon after. Several pieces refer to Nafplio and the area around it. It gives the visitor an insight into more recent Greek history. It also shows the use of art as media in a time before the 24-hour news.

The Lion of Bavaria is a sculpture dating to 1840 by commission from King Ludwig of Bavaria. It was in memory of the Bavarian soldiers who died during the typhoid epidemic in Nafplion between 1833 and 1834. The soldiers were part of Otto’s army. He was the son of Ludwig and would later be King of Greece.

Day Trips.

UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Mycenae and Tiryns – are both worth visiting.

Ancient Tiryns is less than four miles from Nafplion and closer to the water. The building is possibly by the brother of the King of nearby Argos. It was probably the harbor for Mycenae, which would begin construction approximately 50 years later.

Mycenae is 11 miles to the north of Tiryns and will become the most important center of the Mycenaean Culture. This culture dominates mainland Greece, the Aegean islands, and the shores of Asia Minor along the Aegean. The time of this is during the late Bronze Age era (1600-1100 B.C.).

UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidaurus – is a sanctuary dedicated to Asclepius, the Greek god of medicine. From here, the early Greeks witness the emergence of scientific medicine.

Believing entertainment has healing powers, nearby is the grand theater. The acoustics are still nearly perfect, thousands of years later. In the warm months, they continue to host musical performances and plays.

Nafplion is a beautiful place to begin or end an exploration of the magical Peloponnese. Make sure to sample the local cuisine and wine. (Nauplion Cuisine.)

Feel the town start to envelop you. Are you becoming a little bit Greek?

Read more about Nauplion.

PLEASE scroll down to the “Leave a Reply” section at the bottom and tell me your thoughts on: 

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“See Bordeaux” Continued on Page T3         “Taste Venice” Continued on T11