THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Last week we were talking about things you can do closer to home, even in your own backyard.
There were many photos involving colorful leaves.
Believe it or not, it reminds me of Greece.
Not Santorini, where the temperature is in the 70°F and partly sunny. And not Athens, where a day close to 80°F, is not out of the question.
But Ioannina, where the temperature is in the 60s°F.
I.O. who? What? Where?
Ioannina is in the Epirus region of Greece. Head north and take a left at Meteora.
Epirus lies along the 39th parallel, along with W. Virginia, Kansas, Northern California, and everything in between.
At an elevation of 1500 feet, it enjoys cooler “continental” weather, meaning they are currently enjoying fall colors.
Let’s take a look at an Ioannina Autumn.
Epirus Overview.
Epirus does not have the numerous ancient Greek sites of other areas in the Greek mainland.
However, artifacts from the area date back to 1600 B.C. and are now in Ioannina’s archeological museum.
One major exception is the Oracle of Zeus at Dodona.
Dating from probably the 8th century B.C., it may be older than the Apollo Oracle at Delphi. Worshipping will go on until the tearing down of Pagan temples by Emperor Theodosius circa 391 A.D.
The archeological site, 30 minutes southwest from Ioannina, is still hiding quite a bit.
Ioannina.
Many of the Ioannina sites are within the walls or on top of the acropolis.
Much of what remains of the castle today comes from the Ottoman era. However, there may be pieces from the earlier Byzantine structures.
Aslan Pasha Mosque – dating from 1618, sits on the Church of Saint John’s former location. The church disappears after a Christian revolt.
Ottoman Library – are the remains of a building once used as a library.
Upper Citadel.
Walking Ioannina’s second citadel, Its Kale, in autumn is interesting and a great vantage point. The fall colors along the lake can be incredible.
Byzantine Museum – is in the 1960 Royal Pavillion and contains artifacts from the Early Christian to the post-Byzantine period. Items include coins, pictures, sculptures, ceramics, manuscripts, and a 1499 book from Venice.
Fetihe Mosque – this 1795 structure is next to the museum on the highest point of the citadel. Legend says it is on the site of the Byzantine church of the Archangels.
Tomb of Ali Pasha – contains the body of Ali Pasha and one of his wives. The intricate metalwork dates from post-WWII, the original probably going for bullets or weapons.
Silversmithing Museum – is in the western rampart of the castle, which makes for impressive interiors. The museum presents Greek silversmithing from ancient days forward, including the tools and techniques they use. There are displays of pottery, books, manuscripts, post-Byzantine icons, and silver artifacts. The best part, there are descriptions in English.
Rest of the City.
Although it is the major city for Epirus, the rest of the town is not that big. Take some time to stroll the side streets and get lost for a while.
Historical Museum of Ioannina – is outside the walls in a mansion across the street from the Main Gate – Tower of Thomas. The eclectic collection includes silver jewelry, weapons, ceramics, costumes, embroidery, paintings, documents, coins, and more.
The Archeological Museum – is in Litharitsia park, south of the castle. The collection contains more than 3000 pieces ranging from 200,000 B.C. to Roman times circa 200 A.D. Exhibits include bronze vessels, coins, a double hand ax, and a coffin. Several items come from the excavations at Dodoni and Ambracia.
Folklore Museum of Association of Epirotic Studies – is in a building previously serving as a school. It still contains a library. The collection, with many items from residents, shows a window into the town’s history. There are many traditional costumes, some with gold embroidery.
Pamvotida Lake – provides Ioannina with a lakefront for strolling, eels, fish, and frog legs for eating, and a place for water activities.
Ioannina Island in Autumn.
Small ferries depart every 30 minutes (summer) from the waterfront for the short ride to the island. The island is home to five remote Byzantine monasteries and a convent.
The frescos at the monasteries are in excellent condition. There is traditional architecture, narrow streets, and a few tavernas. Between the dock and the museum, it seems like every house has a small offering of souvenirs out front.
Museum of Ali Pasha and the Museum of the Revolutionary Period – resides in the monastery of Ali Pasha’s murder. Items will give you a better view into the life of a pasha. Other items show the life of the common folk during this time.
A meal in a local taverna is a great finale to a visit to the island. Then a scenic boat ride home. It’s autumn in Ioannina.
Outside of Town.
Perama Cave – is a 1.5-million-year-old cave near the town of the same name. Thousands of stalagmites and stalactites create numerous shapes and formations. See if you can recognize the “Cross,” “Statue of Liberty,” or the “Santa Claus.”
Vikos -Aoos UNESCO Global Geopark – is an hour’s drive north of Ioannina. Incorporating the Vikos and the smaller Aoos canyons is an excellent place for hiking, even for beginners. It also offers rafting, kayaking, and mountain biking. The park is home to more than 1800 varieties of flora in three different climates. It also is home to the birds and animals that thrive off the different environments.
Other Ioannina Autumn Sites.
Ancient Dodona – was home to the second most important oracle in ancient Greece behind Delphi. It sits in a strategic pass along the eastern slopes of Mt. Tomaros., a 30-minute drive southeast from Ioannina.
Due to its location far from major tour bus routes, the site still has a lot to reveal. The two “sites” to see are the main amphitheater and a smaller one nearby. Currently, the rest of the site is predominantly foundations of other buildings.
Theogefyro” (God’s bridge)
It was a natural arch across the Kalama River near the village of Lisino. After standing as a natural bridge built by God for thousands of years, it collapsed in 2018. If you are going to Zitsa, it is still worth the 20-minute drive west to see the area.
Ioannina Autumn Cuisine.
The food of Ioannina is not your typical taste of Greece. Think more dairy.
In the fall, menus begin featuring soups and stews.
A glass of the local red wine from Metsovo and a fire round out a perfect day.
The local dairies are producing the fall cheeses, which you may find in a local pie. Or maybe with some pieces of local sausage?
Ioannina Autumn Summary.
Hiking up to a fortress, Greek theater, or a scenic gorge is just nicer without the intense summer heat.
Touring coaches are rare in Epirus after August, so you have more room to spread your wings.
The people you see are probably locals, giving you a true sense of immersion into the locale.
Some local’s English is slightly better than your Greek. And that’s just another part of experiencing Greece.
Your body may not be able to enjoy an Ioannina autumn this season.
But there is no reason not to let your mind and imagination run wild.
Read more on Ioannina.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.