THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
Rouen is the ugly step-sister of Normandy. Well, that’s the way some people treat it.
People race by it on their way to the D-day beaches and Caen, not even giving it a peak.
I think they may be making a big mistake.
Hidden Rouen
Rouen is on the Seine River approximately two hours drive northwest from Paris. It is about one hour from Le Havre where the Seine empties into the English Channel.
The Gauls were here circa 3rd century B.C. and around 58 B.C. Ceasar divides them and all Gaul.
It is too far from Rome to be a significant Roman city, so although the Romans are present, the locals pretty much have free reign.
In 476 A.D., that changes with the fall of the Roman Empire. The Franks swoop in, and they plan to rule the area.
This group is the Merovingian dynasty, and they rule for almost 300 years.
Circa 751 A.D. King Pepin (also Frank), with some help from his friend, the Pope, establishes the Carolingian Dynasty.
But it is his son who runs the ball into the endzone. His name is Charlemagne.
Unfortunately, Charlie, in his rush to rule the world, doesn’t notice a small patch of France in the northeast. And he does not know who is gathering there.
Norse Gang
Franks, Gallo-Romans, and Norse Viking settlers are arriving in this area, and they want land for themselves. They become a ruthless band of marauders and start seizing villages and towns.
Along the way, probably through language abuse, they become the Normans.
When they seize Rouen, circa 841, the French king realizes he may have a formidable foe.
He makes them an ally. The Normans convert to Christianity and swear to kill any non-Christian trying to attack France.
In return, they get their little area, Normandy. Rouen is the capital.
They expand their little area quickly, and by 1066, William I, the Duke of Normandy, is ruling from Caen.
In that same year, William does something that expands the Norman real estate holdings dramatically. He conquers England and becomes their king. He rules from Normandy.
Normandy has France on one side, and the recently-conquered British on the other side. They are not going to live happily ever after.
The Farmer’s Daughter
Normandy, and specifically Rouen, goes through constant takeovers for the next 350 years, with no one holding on for long.
Circa 1428, an 18-year old girl begins leading peasant groups in successful attacks against the British. As her fame grows, Charles, The Dauphin (king without a crown) of France, gives her troops. Jeanne d’Arc has several major wins and turns the tide of the Hundred Years War.
Unfortunately, she falls into the hands of the British, possibly from French officers not happy to take orders from a girl.
The French are not able to save her. The British burn her at the stake in the main square of Rouen in May of 1431.
For the next 400 years, Rouen’s history is much like that of the rest of France. 1793 Napoleon rises and by 1814, meets his Waterloo.
It gets through WWI with very few scrapes and is a major hospital, evacuation port.
It does not do so well in WWII.
The Germans make it a naval port. Allied bombers turn it into rubble, destroying more than 45% of the town.
Hidden Rouen Today
Rouen is an important port, that is interesting as it is not on the sea. It is as far as ocean-going vessels can navigate before cargo needs to transfer to smaller boats.
They are the middleman of the Seine.
The town is old and new, old and young, traditional with a little cutting edge.
Tourism is not its most prominent industry, and that means not as many mobs for you. There is plenty to see and do.
The ladies love hidden Rouen. Although not a happy place for Joan, today she is the toast of the town. (Too soon?) In the main square, you will find a larger than life cross marking the spot where she met her untimely end.
There is also a church sitting in the square in dedication to her.
Another lady with a little history on the square is an American from California, Julia McWilliams.
After arriving in the port on a steamship in 1948, her new husband rushes her to the Restaurant La Couronne. It is one of his favorites and still sits on the square.
She seems to like her very first French meal. She introduces French cooking to America, first via the book Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Later she takes it further via her cooking show on P.B.S.
You can still order the same meal she had at the restaurant but look for it under her married name, Julia Child.
It was also her first time drinking wine with lunch. I think you must raise a glass to her.
Hidden Rouen for Him.
Luckily, the bombers did not take out all of the city, and that which is remaining is incredible. The post-war government and people also get a “tres magnifique” for a costly and time-consuming decision. They rebuild many sections back to their previous forms instead of slapping up concrete.
Much of Rouen’s historical center is under consideration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Structures include the half-timbered buildings, cathedral, Saint-Ouen Church, and Saint Maclou Church (above).
Rue Eau de Robec – is one of the more historical and scenic streets remaining. A short walk from the Church of St. Ouen, is this street of half-timber buildings, many with boutiques or cafes. These buildings, many from the 15th century, were part of the cloth dying industry.
Palais de Justice – is a Gothic masterpiece dating from 1509. The palace serves as the Rouen Law Courts and the meeting place of the Parliament of Normandy.
The building is not open to the public, but the exterior is enough.
Hidden Rouen for Everyone
Cathédrale Notre-Dame – is one of France’s largest and most impressive Gothic cathedrals. The main structure dates from the 13th century on the spot where other churches have stood since the fourth century.
Visit and find out what part butter plays in the construction.
Fans of Claude Monet will recognize the church. He would paint a series of 30 canvases, catching it in different lights.
Tour du Gros-Horloge (Big Clock Tower) – is a Gothic belfry tower dating from 1389 for defensive purposes. The sizeable decorative clock dates from 1889. Still working, the facade has incredible details.
Hidden Rouen Summary
I hope you can start to see why I think Rouen deserves a detour.
I’m not saying skip the sites near Caen. I am suggesting you need more time.
We did not mention the Camembert, the Calvados, and other local delicacies. You can spend a day following a Calvados or cider route. (More on Normandy Cuisine.)
And then there’s that artist with the gardens an hour south in Giverny. He began that whole Impressionism movement here in Normandy. Others would follow.
What part of Hidden Rouen do you want to find first?
Read more about Rouen
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“Did you ever want to see the inspiration for a French Impressionist painting? Many began in the Rouen area. What artist would you like to channel?”
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“Venice Italy” Continued on Page T3 “Taste Italian Spirits” Continued on T11