You Do Not Tour Rome in A Day.
There are cities that you can see in a day and come away with a great sense of “what it offers.” Rome is not one of those cities. Like London or Paris, it covers a large area with several neighborhoods/arrondissements to see.
But it doesn’t merely go wide; it also goes deep. With a history reaching back further than many places in Europe, it has many layers to explore. In the Forum area alone, there are at least six distinct time periods visible. To tour Rome’s many layers is indeed going to be a part history lesson.
All Rome is Divided.
So how do you divide and conquer Rome? First, let’s look at the city versus nearby attractions. The sites outside the city are for another visit. Then I generally break it up into three areas. The Imperial (or ancient) Rome, Old Rome and the country across the river, The Vatican City. Each one of these areas could easily take several days to just scratch the surface.
Imperial Rome.
Tour Rome’s Imperial past. The Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill, Hippodrome, and Baths of Caracalla could keep you busy and amazed for hours.
The oldest section is the Forum. Lying in the small valley between the Capitoline and Palatine Hills, it is a sprawling display of architectural fragments. Here are the oldest and some of the most essential structures still standing in Rome. The Forum is the political and social center of the city, so this is where they build the shrines and temples. You have remains of the former royal residence, the Regia (dating to 8th century BC), and the nearby House of the Vestal Virgins. The Temple of Vesta is a little newer, dating from the 7th century BC.
As the hills around the forum slowly eroded into the valley, the people would build on top of the older structures to keep up with the landscape. There are no structures in the Forum that do not have a foundation from an earlier structure(s).
In comparison, the Colosseum (dating from 72 A.D.) and Baths of Caracalla (212 A.D.) are practically babies. Even with pre-purchasing your ticket, to tour Rome’s Colosseum is going to require at least an hour of your time to see it from the arena to the upper level.
And now, in the company of a guide, you can explore the lower level where the gladiators and wild animals were waiting. I have done this backstage tour and would recommend it highly. If anyone in your party ever uses the expression, “How do they do that?” this will be a highlight.
Friends, Romans, Countrymen.
Outside the Colosseum, there are a few things to avoid. Gladiators and Roman soldiers did not work for free in the old days. The Centurions you see there today, although neither real soldiers and often not even Roman, do not either. If you want a picture, have euros ready.
The Colosseum is one of those sites that had more than its fair share of complaints. Not for the structure itself, but for the “guide” people hired outside after I warned them not to.
In fairness, I get complaints around the world about hiring guides on the spot, but the Colosseum leads in this category. As I have said before, the great guides are working, and you need to arrange in advance. The bad ones, or (gasp) those only pretending to be a guide, hang out waiting for unsuspecting tourists. Don’t be a tourist.
If you are not willing to join a tour group, get a guidebook and read up. Do not be like the guests coming back to the ship and telling me, “We got one of those guides you had the warning about in your talk. He said the man who was building the Colosseum was named Colosso and…” I say I can no longer be surprised, but some tourist always proves me wrong.
Old Rome and it’s Layers.
Must see on many peoples list are the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps (why?) and the Trevi Fountain. The Spanish Steps are more of a memory than a fantastic structure.
In fact, for all intents, it is a regular staircase, built in 1725 to link the church at the top with the piazza below. Even the fountain, while a Bernini, is not by THAT Bernini.
It’s not the grand staircase of the Russian Tzars or the triple helix of the Museo de Pobo Galego in Spain.
But the Spanish Steps hold memories, and these are the essential souvenirs.
In 1953, Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck were in a movie called “Roman Holiday” which used the steps as a backdrop. Since that time, it was a must-see on everyone’s Roman holiday. Today, when people tell me, they need to see the steps, its often because they want to stand where a loved one, mother, father, or grandparent, posed for a photo 40+ years ago.
Layers at The Vatican City.
If for no other reason, you want to visit here to say you have been to the smallest country (by landmass) in the world. The Vatican City measures in at 110 acres. New York’s Central Park is 840 for comparison sake. For architecture fans, as soon as you enter St. Mark’s Square, your eyes are drawn upwards. History, art, and even religion are reasons to visit this site. Do not skip it because “it’s another church,” it is much more than just a church.
It is the largest Christian church in the world with incredible architecture, history, and artwork. And to answer a question I would receive often, Yes, you can visit even if you’re not Catholic.
Toss A Coin.
According to legend, holding a coin in your right hand and tossing it over the left shoulder into the Trevi fountain will ensure that you will return to Rome someday. When you see how much you were not able to see on your well-planned day, you may want to toss several coins.
Does it work? I keep going back. And although I do not hurl it over my shoulder, I always throw some change in the fountain. Yes, sometimes three coins. The money goes to a non-profit that provides food to Rome’s poor and homeless.
Also, see.
In addition to the must-see sites, let me add a few lesser-known places that are worth seeing. In Imperial Rome, if you like sculpture then you must visit the Capitoline Museums (several buildings). It is at the northwest end of the Forum, behind the Altare della Patria, wedding cake building. It is a museum of sculpture. Some small enough to hold, while others once stood over 50 feet high. The museums offer, what I think, is one of the best views over the Forum at no extra charge. At the adjacent Wedding Cake building, there is an elevator to the top for great views on a clear day.
If you tour Rome’s Old section, you can find many of the more than 60 museums the city has to offer. I like to get “lost” in the Jewish Ghetto. While it certainly has a tragic history, this small neighborhood and the Trastevere area right across the river are now charming places to lose half a day and try Jewish-style artichokes. Don’t forget to tour Rome’s culinary side as well.
The Vatican Museum has 54 galleries, and most people only see the few leading to the Sistine Chapel. Some not even stopping (if the crowd will allow it) to look at the artwork and the building itself. The “organized” tours are mostly express routes to the Sistine. Get a guidebook, audio tour, or a private guide and get lost in the Vatican Museums.
It is more than just one ceiling. Your feet and eyes will be tired at the end, but your soul will be vibrating.
Tour Rome’s Summary.
I have been to Rome more than twenty times, and I am still ticking things off my to-do list. I tour Rome’s museums and feel like there is always something I didn’t see the last time. The Colosseum, same thing.
So even if you have been to Rome, you have a lot more to see. You better get started.
“See Rome” Continued on Page T8. “Taste Rome” Continued on T14