November 22, 2020 – Albaicin Spain.

THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.

WHERE TO?                       TASTE.                        SEE.

When you say Granada, most people think of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Alhambra.

Others hear José Carreras singing that 1932 song from a Mexican composer.

And a few may pull up a car from the late 1970s.

The Alhambra and adjoining Generalife, in Granada are both UNESCO sites.

But Granada has a third UNESCO World Heritage site, the Albaicin.

Like the Alhambra, the Albaicin is an area full of little treasures.

This is the area where the original Iberian people first set up a community. Unfortunately, there is little information on this area again until the Berber domination circa 1013.

The area still has the winding narrow streets dating back to the Nasrid Kingdom.

Granada’s 1518 A.D. cathedral sits on the previous Nasrid Great Mosque of Granada. This was the center of the former Muslim Medina (market area.) It is one of many great structures dating from the reign of Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor.

The church is Gothic in design with an edge of the Renaissance. The Baroque features are from the 1600s.

Royal Chapel.

Beginning as a side chapel to the cathedral, the Royal Chapel began construction under Ferdinand in 1505. The site, on the south side of the cathedral, was the terraces of the Grande mosque.

Charles V will take over the completion after the 1514 death of Ferdinand. In 1517, both monarchs arrived at the new chapel. Their daughter, Joanna of Castile, and her husband Felipe I are also there. The chapel’s treasury of artworks, liturgical objects, and relics are on display in the Sacristy–Museum within the chapel.

Palacio de la Madraza (Madrasah.)

It began as the mercantile (bazaar) during the Muslim period. When the Catholic Monarchs take over, the square hosts jousts, processions, and Isabella’s autos de fe to purge non-Catholics.

There are still narrow streets with shops leading off in each direction.

Lower Albaicin.

The Albaicín section stretches east from the Gran Via del Colon and north of the Darro River. Many mistakenly refer to this area as Sacromonte, which is actually one more hill east.

Officially, the north side of the river is Albaicin, while the south shore is in the Realejo. As you would probably visit them together, I am lumping them together in this section.

Plaza Nueva.

This plaza was new circa 1500 when they cover the Darro to create more space. Today, there are numerous cafes, but originally it would host bullfights and public executions.  

Real Chancillería (Royal Chancellery.)

This imposing building from circa 1530 is thanks to Philip II (Charles son) and in Renaissance style. The crown holds various courts from the Royal Chancellery, not just local but for all of Andalusia. How convenient to have a plaza for executions just out front. By the 17th century, they add a prison for overflow. Today, it is the home of the High (Supreme) Court of Justice of Andalucia.

Juzgados (courts.)

Across the plaza is the courts (Juzgados) building originally acting as an additional court to deal with the Inquisition backlog. Everyone deserves a “fair” trial. They still use the courts today.

Iglesia de San Gil y Santa Ana.

This church, standing at the east end of the square, dates from 1537, and a bell tower circa 1561. The ornate sculpture over the entrance gives a clue as to what awaits inside. There is sculptural work on many of the columns and works by many great Spanish artists. Make sure to look up and admire the Mudejar (partly Gothic, partly Islamic) coffered ceilings. 

The “split” between the two neighborhoods becomes more obvious beyond the church. Calle Sta. Ana, to the right of the church as you face it, runs along the Realejo side.

To the left is Carrera del Darro, on the Albaicín side. It is the more scenic street and a favorite walk of mine in the early morning.

Palacio de los Olvidados.

The Palacio is from the 16th century and reflects several restorations. Today, it houses the Museum of the Inquisition. The collection includes numerous instruments of torture and capital punishment used by the inquisitorial courts. These were both civil and ecclesiastical courts, although the results were often the same if you were not born Catholic.

Convento de Santa Catalina de Zafra (Dominicas.)

This imposing convent building from circa 1540. Moorish houses in the area became part of the building materials mixing with the Renaissance style. The Baroque decorations date from circa 1678 after a fire destroys many areas. Parts of the convent are open to the public. Try one of the sweets the local nuns make.  

Casa de Castril.

The very next building is Castril Palace. This 1539 Renaissance palace was originally the home of Hernando de Zafra, secretary of Catholic monarchs, responsible for the convent. Today, it houses the Archeological and Ethnographic Museum of Granada. 

Paseo de los Tristes.

This scenic plaza features a 1609 fountain. It also offers great views of the Alhambra’s Torre de Comares directly above the river’s other side. Carrera de Dario becomes Paseo de los Tristes from here on.

Puente del Aljibillo.

Just beyond the Paseo de los Tristes is this bridge. As soon as you cross the river, look up to your right. I think this is one of the better viewpoints of the Alhambra. At the end of the park, you can walk beside the Alhambra walls.

Upper Albaicin.

The streets here are just as curvy but are now on a hillside. Some are only for pedestrians, and others are actually a staircase.

Either way, I suggest starting at the top and working down.

Mirador de San Cristobal.

Offering a scenic view of Granada’s city, you can get a feel for where you are heading. There is a great view of the walls of the Palacio de Dar al-Horra.

Palace of Dar al-Horra.

This 15th-century Nasrid palace sits on an earlier Zirid palace’s remains dating back to the 11th century. This was the residence of Queen Aisha. Her son Boabdil would take the Christian slave Isabel de Solís as his consort.

Hernando de Zafra would later use part of the palace for the Monastery of Santa Isabel la Real. The remaining two-story palace includes a tower, a central courtyard with a pool, and some original decorations. 

Iglesia de San Nicolás.

Less than five minutes walk east of Max Moreau is the San Nicholas church dating from 1525. The simple church is more famous for its terrace lookout  (mirador) and the 1543 bell tower’s views. Unfortunately, in 2005, part of the roof fell in closing the church. As of 2020, the church structure was still not open. From the terrace, there is the Kodak moment of the Alhambra.

The Mosque of Granada.

Sacromonte (Sacral Mount.)

Officially, the Sacromonte neighborhood is further east of what we have been talking about so far. Many people confuse the Upper Albaicin as Sacromonte. The hill east of the Casa del Chapiz and Palacio de los Cordova is the Sacral Mount.

I suggest a taxi as it is a good hike from anywhere in town. The highlights are the whitewashed houses and cafes; some cut into the hillside. You do not realize they are until you go inside, and it is much larger than it looks outside. There are also some great views of the Alhambra, especially at night.

Abbey of Sacromonte.

Outside of restaurants and Flamenco shows, this is the only place to visit in Sacromonte. This 17th-century abbey includes underground chapels and catacombs, which you can see on guided tours.

You cannot enter the Abbey except on tour. Tours in English are only in the afternoon. There is also a college dating back to the 17th-century and a seminary on property. The views down the valley are nice.

Beyond the Albaicin.

What? There’s more? Not all sites are right in the center.

Monasterio de San Jerónimo, Granada

A block away from the Basilica, this monastery was also one of the Catholic monarchs’ grand works. The monastery has two cloisters and Renaissance interiors with rich decorations. During the French occupation, they destroy the tower—the current tower dates from 1989. The monastery is open late morning and again in the late afternoon. Mass takes place each morning.

Monasterio de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Granada Charterhouse.)

Construction began circa 1516 and would last three hundred years. The outside gives you no warning of the flamboyant explosion of ornamentation inside. The dome, sacristy, and tabernacle are all masterpieces.

Nearby is the bullfighting rink of Granada.

Basilica of San Juan de Dios.

Dating from circa 1759, this Baroque Basilica is the final resting place for Granada’s patron saint. The interior does not have one inch of floor, wall, or ceiling that isn’t full of color. Marble and gold are everywhere, with silver trying to keep up. The accents of blue in the dome set everything off.  

This is just scratching the surface of Granada and could easily fill a day. And this is before seeing the Alhambra.

Then there is the Andalasia cuisine and wine to sample.

Who knew this little town had such a punch?

Pop Jose on the stereo, pour a sangria (it’s closer to 5:00 in Spain,) and travel to Granada for a few minutes.

Read more about Granada.

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“See the World” Continued on Page T3.           “Taste the World” Continued on T11.