THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
A ladies’ monastery, one of Corfu’s Kodak moments.
Corfu is the second largest of the Ionian Islands and includes several small satellite islands.
The island is mountainous with two ridges dividing the island into three areas (districts). The north is more mountainous, the south has a more flat space for agriculture, and the middle has both.
Corfuian Ancient History.
A reference, written in Mycenaean Linear B script circa 1300 B.C., is the first mention in writing of Corfu (Kerkyra.)
Several scholars identify the island as Scheria, the island of the Phaeacians, in Homer’s Odyssey.
Other island myths include Jason (of Argonaut fame,) marrying Medea in her cave. Apollonius gave Corfu the name Drepane, (sickle,) because Cronus hid the sickle he used to castrate his father Uranus here. And the myths go on and…
Less Ancient.
Christianity arrives in Corfu circa 40 A.D. Jason of Tarsus comes to Corfu with Sosipatrus of Patras. They preach, they end up in jail, they convert, and after a miracle, save many people.
Circa 330 A.D. as the Roman Empire is crumbling and the Byzantine period is beginning, the province takes more self-control.
They will lose it again circa 535 A.D.
Circa 1386, the Republic of Venice takes control. Corfu becomes an important Venetian stronghold during the series of conflicts with the Ottoman Empire. These begin in 1396 and last until 1718. Corfu is one of the few Greek ports not to fall to the Ottoman.
In 1800 Napoleon visits and in 1812, the British take naval control of the Adriatic from the French. The last French stronghold is the island of Corfu.
Second World War.
British troops took Corfu in October of 1944. The Greek Civil War starts soon after. It is between the Greek government army and the military branch of the Communist Party of Greece. The government wins five years later.
Corfu Today.
Today, the few examples of classical architecture that survive the war mix with Italian and post-war Greek design. The island attracts mostly Greeks and Europeans on vacation. It also snags Americans off cruise ships passing between Venice and Athens. As you are about to see, a few hours is not enough to scrape the surface.
Due to its many oppressors, Corfu is an amazing potpourri. Come sample Corfuian history, architecture, and cuisine.
Should See Corfu.
Unfortunately, most of the island’s Greek and Roman sites are still underground. In a catch-22, the island is not willing to direct monies towards them until they find something amazing. Without funding, no one is digging.
Most of the structures you see today date within the last 250 years and in Corfu town, since WW11
New Fortress Area
New Fortress – dates from the mid-15th century. The Venetians built these and new city walls due to the growing city and the threat of attack. The majority of the buildings inside the fort are by the British during their occupation in the 1800s. The dry moat is an excellent example of Venetian and moat design.
Esplanade Area.
The Spianada, (Esplanade) is the largest square in Greece and the town’s historical center. A cricket field is in the middle.
The Museum of Asian Art occupies the palace today. It contains an incredible collection of art from Asia and India. The building is impressive, and several rooms have decorations and period furnishings from the 1800s. For Europe, it is very accessible, and it has air conditioning, not air cooling.
Old Fortress – dates from the 12th century, in place of earlier fortifications dating back to the 6th century. The Venetians built the current fort to protect the town and the vital shipping lane that runs past it. It wards off all three Ottoman attacks.
The fort is open for exploring. The summit offers excellent views over the city. They also provide exhibitions, concerts, and cultural events throughout the year. From the bridge to the Old Fort, you get a great view of the city walls.
The most popular Ancient Greek or Roman (I have guests call it both,) ruin on the island is not ancient or a ruin. The British build the Church of St. George circa 1840 on the grounds of the Old Fortress. As they are recycling building material, it makes sense to use a Greek temple as the design. Today, it is only in use one day a year, St George day in April.
Old Town
The 1943 Nazi bombing destroys much of this area. Fortunately, using photos and occasionally found blueprints, they can piece parts back together.
City Hall – is one block west of the Spianada. The original building, from the 1600s, was a men’s club, then an opera house, becoming the city hall in 1907.
Ionian Parliament Building – This neoclassical building dates from 1853. After joining Greece, there was no need for an Ionian Parliament. Today the structure is for cultural events.
Plakada Agiou – was the original town square before the Spianada. Today, it is a Corfuian Kodak moment due to the different styles of architecture.
The Museum of the Corfu Philharmonic Society, Nikolaos Mantzaros – is across the street from Casa Parlante. Musicians enjoy this museum that presents the history of the Philharmonic since its beginning in 1841. Nikolaos Halikiopoulos Mantzaros was the Society’s first artistic director, a position he held for 31 years. Also, he was a music teacher, writer of counterpoint, and composer. He put music to lyrics by Dionysios Solomos’ (national poet) for the Greek National Anthem.
Liston Arcade and Terrace – forms the western border of the Spianada. I call it the old town’s front porch. It was a gift from Napoleon, who built it for his soldiers. There are numerous cafes where you can enjoy a beverage and let the Corfuian way of life sink in. Or maybe watch a game of British cricket, from the French arcade while enjoying a Greek island.
The Bazaar of Corfu Old Town – does not have official boundaries. From the Liston, walk west or north, or northwest. Pedestrian street after street will have displays outside their shops as if it is a continuous outside market. It is. Think about the Plaka in Athens. This is a great place to try and lose yourself.
Not So Old Town
Vlacherna Monastery – is the poster child for Corfu, appearing in many brochures. The chapel dates from circa 1685, and it was a women’s monastery. It sits on an island which today, is at the end of the airport’s runway. Years later, they build a causeway connecting the island to the mainland. Guests can visit the chapel.
Vlacherna Monastery
Mon Repos – is a villa dating from 1831, built as a summer residence for the British Lord High Commissioner. It was a royal residence until 1967. Royal births at the villa, include Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, and Princess Alexia of Greece and Denmark.
Just Outside of Town
Achilleion Palace – is a grand summer palace in the village of Gastouri south of town. The Empress Elisabeth of Austria, (Sisi), builds the escape in 1889, after the tragic loss of her only son. The architectural style is of a mythical ancient palace. She bases the decor on Achilles from Greek mythology, hence the name. The gardens include views of the sea.
Venetian Arsenal, Gouvia – is just north of the city. The Venetians built it circa 1716 as part of their defenses against the Ottomans. The structure was an essential part of the Venetian defense until 1798 when the French abolished the Venetian Republic. Today, there are the brick bones of the structure. In the last few years, the Corfu government has finally begun renovations of the property.
Southwest Side
Kaisers Throne – is a scenic lookout at the top of Pelekas Village. In the early 1900s, German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II was living in the Achilleion Palace. He would like to drive to Pelekas to watch the sunset. Today there is a small walkway offering a 360-degree panoramic view of the island, any time of the day.
Northwest Side
Paleokastritsa Area – seems to have more vacation accommodations every year. The area offers six suitable beaches with snorkeling and other water sports.
Monastery of Paleokastritsa – sits on a rocky hill overlooking Palaiokastritsa. It is a working monastery you can visit. There is a small chapel and a separate museum of religious items. The views are captivating over the jagged coast to the sea below.
North Side
Canal D’Amour – seems to refer to the entire coast area these days. Sandstone rock formations create small bays with small secluded beaches. There are also caves and tunnels (Canal D’Amour tunnel) you can wade through. Best at high tide but beware of the rock shelf.
Kassiopi Castle – is the third castle in the north, south, west defense. The forts in Corfu town were the eastern defense. Kassiopi, in the northeast, was a large enclosure, as is evident from the walls that remain. Unfortunately, the recycling of building supplies from the site, and nature’s encroachment leave very little to see clearly.
Mount Pantokrator
The mountain is the highest on Corfu. (2972 feet). You can access the top by car along a narrow, paved but gravel road. The views from the top, on a clear day, are astounding if you can find a spot between the antenna. There are at least 3 billion of them. (It’s Greece, I’m tweaking the truth a little), in all shapes and sizes. But the views are impressive.
Palea Peritheia (Old Perithia) is a heritage-protected site sitting on the north side of Mount Pantokrator. This ancient village is one of the last, (and best) examples of a mountain village from a time long ago. Village records date back to the mid 14th century, although people were living here centuries before. At its peak, there were around 130 houses, built entirely by hand.
Unfortunately, several require restoration after years of sitting empty. The population was about 1,200 in the early 1900s. After the war, tourism began in the towns along the sea. A more natural lifestyle and steady paycheck drew many villagers down the hill.
Today, there are less than 100 residents. There are eight church buildings, seven tavernas, and one bed and breakfast in renovated old buildings.
Corfuian Beaches.
With more than 50 beaches on the island, there are beaches for all needs. Public beaches, deserted (no services) beaches, and everything in between.
In addition to the ones in descriptions above (near sites), a few of the more popular are:
Kontokali – is close to town near the Gouvia marina. Large and sandy, with service, facilities, and water sports.
Corfuian beaches on the West Coast
Arillas – is a resort area I like, probably for all the wrong reasons. It is not confining with a cafe on top of a taverna on top of a hotel. And there is little to no beach at high tide. Even at low tide, there’s barely room for four rows of beach chairs. There is a fair amount of shallow water deep enough to cover yourself if you sit. Corfuian sunsets here can be lovely.
Agios Georgios Pagon – is a vast beach, somewhat horseshoe in shape. This beach is another one that does not feel like it is cramped. Sure there are restaurants and shops, but they have space around them. I like this area in the offseason.
Corfuian Cuisine
We know that many different influences have had an effect on the island’s architecture, but what about Corfuian cuisine? Corfu was an important stop on the trade route from Venice to the eastern Mediterranian. Where do you think Marco Polo stopped on his way home?
So if you like Italian food, you will not find it on Corfu.
But you will find many delicious Corfuian dishes that include pasta. The spices we mentioned coming from Asia and the middle east and local products make for a cuisine all their own. (Read more.)
The wines of Ionia are also readily available including Corfuian wines. Click the orange link to read more about Ionian Wine.
You can reach Corfu by air from Athens and Thessaloniki year-round. In the summer, many European value airlines have flights from other parts of Europe.
Ferries arrive from several ports on the east coast of Italy, the Greek mainland, and Peloponesse.
Looking for a Greek paradise with fewer American visitors?
Start saving those pennies now. A Corfuian treat awaits.
Learn more about Corfu.
PLEASE scroll down to the “Leave a Reply” section at the bottom and tell me your thoughts on:
“Have you heard of Corfu before? Would you like to visit it now?”
Please help me spread the news by rating, commenting, and sharing this blog. – THANKS!
Yes, I have heard of Corfu. And this was probably the first time in many reviews that I was sold on the very first picture of the ladies’ monastery – amazingly beautiful. Again, I’m sure pictures don’t do it justice, but I read on about Corfu and found Mouse Island and it’s link to Homer’s The Odyssey. Fascinating. Thank you!