November 15, 2020 – Folegandros

Thom

4 years ago

THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.

WHERE TO? TASTE. SEE.

Where do I go when I’m ready to jump off a cliff?

Sometimes when traveling, I need to get away and catch my breath.

Those who know me well don’t believe that, but it is true.

One place that is great for that is Folegandros. Foo foo who?

It is one of the Cycladic islands and sits between Athens and Santorini.

The island is not large. At approximately 12 square miles in area and a length of six miles, you can see it in a day.

Just looking at the photos is recharging me.

There are three villages on the island that are home to around 400 full-time residents. That number almost doubles in the summer with Greeks who have seasonal homes.

There are many things Folegandros does not have. An airport, a cruise pier, or even a bank.

Ferries run year-round from Piraeus (Athens) and Fira (Santorini.) In the summer, there are additional departures and connections, including Mykonos, Paros, and more. The ferry docks at Karavostasis.

This is a place where many establishments, including hotels and restaurants, do not accept credit cards. Some that do include service fees for using credit cards. Cash (euros) is king.

So what Does Folegandros have?

Traditional homes, some hundreds of years old.

Small towns where there are no tour buses hemorrhaging tourists.

Restaurants and hotels for the vacationing Greeks, so they better get it right.

Miles of hiking trails and far off beaches.

Churches, Folegandros has plenty of churches.

Karavostasis.

The only port on the island, this is where you arrive. The village offers the services you expect near a ferry pier: car rental, taxi stand, bus stop.

You can see the small local fishing industry to your left.

Beyond the pier are budget rooms, studios, and motels, many that cater to backpackers. There is a minimart, a coffee shop, and a few cafes.

The big attraction here is the beaches. These are not white sandy beaches, but dense sand and rocks. They are within walking distance of the lodging. Bring old tennis shoes or aqua socks. I have never seen beach chairs or vendors on these beaches.

Livadi Beach – is a semi-sandy beach with pine trees for shade. Suitable for families. It is a 20-minute walk from Karavostasis going south. There are no services, so bring what you need.

Note:

Beaches in Folegandros are a mixture of packed sand and rocks, in varying amounts. Some type of water shoe is a good idea. Very few beaches have facilities such as food, drinks, chairs, or restrooms. Usually, beaches that are harder to reach tend to be clothing optional. However, it is not unusual to see natural bathing at other beaches, especially out of season.

Folegandros (Chora).

Just over two miles from the ferry pier, past a goat or two, is the island’s main village. The trip is almost entirely uphill. Buses, and maybe a taxi, meet each ferry.

The town sits on the edge of a sharp cliff, more than 600 feet above the sea. The majority of the residents live here, and it has the largest number of accommodations and restaurants. The only gas station on the island is at the edge of town, coming from the port. Parking is at a premium. There is a large (free) public lot next to the Chora bus station.

The town is approximately 10 blocks long by four blocks wide. As it follows the twisting cliffside, most streets have a twist or bend. Many of the streets in the center of town are pedestrian-only.

The closer your hotel is to the cliffside, the more expensive it becomes. I prefer to stay two short blocks inland and save the sometimes €100 difference per night. It covers a few glasses of wine at sunset and a nice dinner.

A dip in the hotel’s pool mid-afternoon is a lifesaver.

Besides the cliffside views and the charming town, there are few sites to visit.

In Town.

Dounavis Square – is the largest square in town. With a large tree in the center, everyone passes through at some point. It is a nice place for a drink.

Piatsa Square – is adjacent to Dounavis Square to the south. Here several tavernas offer outdoor seating in the summer. Very popular with tourists.

The square is bustling day and night.
Finding a dinner companion is rarely a problem.

They are not feeding tourists, but Greeks who know if the dish is right.

Castle (Kastro) – is built on the edge of the sheer cliff north of Dounavis Square. Here you can see the medieval castle dwellings built to protect the residents during attacks. The back walls of the houses are solid walls, with windows on the front side.

The Kastro (Castro) section is worth a stroll.

Folegandros Cultural Association – is in a charming traditional building in Pounta Square. Stop by in the summer to check out the various pottery, painting, and photography exhibits they host.

Above Folegandros Chora.

Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary) sits above the town on an ancient Greek temple site. Some of the church’s marble decorations are probably from the previous temple. Some statues bear ancient inscriptions, and there are other finds in the courtyard. The church construction is from sometime pre1687, as a renovation took place in that year. The newest addition dates from 1821.

The church is nice; the views are spectacular. It requires walking up a paved sidewalk that zigzags up the hillside. The elevation gain is approximately 200 feet.

There are low walls on either side where you can take a break. There is no shade, so early morning and before sunset are great times.

You are definitely closer to heaven after the climb.

Ano Meria.

Sitting along the island’s spine running north from Chora, this village has sea views east and west. It also offers panoramic views back towards Chora, 2.5 miles to the south.

Folegandros (Chora), to Ano Meria.

The road to Ano Meria departs Chora next to the public parking lot.

It is a scenic drive but keep your eyes on the road.

Three Windmills. – Just past the turnoff to Choros (left), you will see the remains of three old windmills on your right. They are no longer in operation and sit on private land.

Agali (Agkalis) Beach – is off the main road to the left, less than a mile past the mills. This semi-protected bay has several tavernas and guest houses. Most are seasonal. You can reach the beach by car. In my opinion, this is one of the island’s best beaches.

Cafes nearby offer drinks, and there is a public W.C.

In summer, you can take a boat from here to nearby beaches Agios Nikolaos, Galifos, and Livadaki. These are predominantly clothing optional. Only Agios Nik has a taverna.

Folklore Museum – is just before you reach Ano Meria. This small museum is actually a traditional agricultural house, complete with a wood oven, well, stable, and olive press. The turnoff is to your left, just beyond the bus stop (right.) It is up a steep ramp you need to take slowly. The sign is even smaller than the museum.

The Village Ano Meria.

The town is not much wider than one block east and one block west off the road. The “center” of town has the towers of two windmills as a marker. The roof and sails are long gone.

There are more churches than hotels or restaurants. This is a Greek village, and I find myself the only one speaking English sometimes.

However, all the locals I have met go out of their way to be accommodating. I love to stop here for a truly authentic Greek meal.

During my last visit (2018), there were several signs of construction. I hope they will not build over the charm.

The paved road ends with a gravel dirt road going left and one right at the island’s north end. Adjacent is the Chrysopigi chapel, which I do not believe is a coincidence.

The road to the left twists and turns down to a small rocky beach area, Ambeli. There are no services here.

The road to the right, just before the chapel, will take you to Lygaria Beach, which has no services. The next bay beyond is Agios Georgios Beach, which has a little more packed sand with the rocks. Although peaceful, it can be windy. Ask your hotel to check the conditions before you head out. There are no services on this beach. There is some shade from trees.

Other Folegandros Activities.

Hiking.

There are more unpaved roads on the island than paved, making for endless miles of walking/hiking. The climb up to the church from Chora is a hike, and there are some quasi paths above the church.

Reaching some of the beaches from Ano Meria includes the use of some good walking shoes or boots.

There is some elevation change on just about every walk.

The “Christos” turn off the main road south of Ano Meira leads to the Christos church. You can continue to the beach at Agkali.

The island is a desert terrain with many elevation changes. Paths are uneven dirt, have little to no shade or facilities. Spring and fall are more comfortable times to explore. In the spring, you have the addition of blooming wildflowers.

Boating.

Several boating options are departing from the harbor in Karavostasis. They include beach hopping, swimming, snorkeling, scuba, and sometimes a combination. The majority of the programs are on the west coast of the island.

Boats also depart from Agkali beach to other beaches.

The Cookie Jar Just Out of Reach.

Chryssospilia Cave – is on the eastern, often rougher coast of the island. As excavations still take place, it is off-limits to the public.

You can only reach the cave by boat. Then you have to climb 30 feet up to the opening.

Much of the island’s coast is inaccessible.

There is little information on the contents of the cave. Contents may include human skeletons, a Roman cistern, pottery, and more. Archaeologists claim there are hundreds of names in clay. Some of the relics may date to the 4th century B.C.

Sea conditions permitting, you can see the cave opening from a boat, but that’s adding lemon juice to the wound.

Folegandros Summary.

In the summer, you can find some after-dinner music, but not in massive nightclubs thumping until 6:00 A.M.

There seem to be small cafes everywhere.

Here you come to relax and soak up the Greek vibe.

A slower pace, traditional Greek food, and the hospitality of the locals.

Do something you would not usually do. Take a walk with no destination in mind. Read a book, or eeek, take a nap.

It is hard to explain the sense of calm that Folegandros brings upon you.

I try to plan a “down” day about every seven days.

The brain never shuts off completely, but it definitely recharges.

Here, red or white may be the most taxing question all day.

Maybe you need a trip to Folegandros.