THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Mycenae is the capital of the mythical Agamemnon, a Mycenean king who is the creation of Homer.
Along with the site of Tiryns, they share the UNESCO World Heritage Listing of Archaeological Sites of Mycenae and Tiryns.
But mythical Mycenae goes back much further than Agamemnon.
Perseus, possibly the son of Zeus and Dana, is the mythical founder. After throwing his sword into the air. He names the place it lands after the round nob on his sword (mykes.)
His descendants will reign over Mycenae for three generations, until the last blood male, Eurystheas, dies without an heir.
The Mycenaeans elect Atreus as their new leader. He is the father of Agamemnon and Menelaus.
Why do we know Agamemnon? He plays a major character in Homer’s Iliad.
Other characters include his wife, Clytemnestra, son Orestes, daughter Electra and Helen, his brother’s wife.
They alone are the main characters in several Greek dramas, all tragedies.
Mycenae Beyond the Myth.
Outside of myth, Mycenae is the most important and richest palatial site of the Late Bronze Age in Greece.
Mycenae, what you see today, dates from between 1350 and 1200 B.C. when the city was at its peak.
However, scientists have found traces of habitation here dating back to the Neolithic period, circa seventh millennium B.C.).
Mycenae’s location on a low plateau provides views of the Argive plain. This allows them to control the land and sea routes.
Researchers find relics in the site indicating a complex network of commercial trading with other parts of the Mediterranean.
The Cyclopean defense walls date from circa 1350 B.C. Signs indicate that due to natural events, such as earthquakes, the site was no longer in use circa 1100 B.C. This was near the end of the Mycenean period.
A temple to either Hera or Athena dates from 468 B.C.
Towards the end of the Persian Wars, Argos seizes Mycenae for its real estate portfolio.
During the Hellenistic period, (323 B.C. to circa 31 B.C.) locals repair the prehistoric walls and build a small village. Remains from this time indicate they build a small theater near the tomb of Clytemnestra.
At what point the last inhabitants abandon the town is unknown.
The Last 200 Years.
It is not until the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, that antiquarians (many looters) discover the Mycenaean acropolis and Cyclopean walls. Greece is still under Ottoman rule at this time and they can care less about Greek history. They turn a blind eye (and greased palm) to the looting of antiquities all over Greece.
After the war of Greek Independence, (1837) the archaeological sites come under the jurisdiction of the Greek Archaeological Society. Unfortunately, many treasures are already missing.
At Mycenae, they clear the Lion Gate circa 1841, but not much else. It will be 35 years before Heinrich Schliemann begins excavating Grave Circle A.
Other explorers will excavate the palace and cemeteries on And off between 1884 and 1939.
In 1952 excavating begins again, unearthing Grave Circle B and several houses. They also uncover the religious center.
During this time, restoration of the Tomb of Clytaemnestra, the palace, Grave Circle B, and the Lions Gate takes place.
In 1999, UNESCO declares Mycenae and Tyrins a UNESCO World Heritage Monument.
Highlights of Mycenae.
Cyclopean Walls.
From the parking area, the first thing that stands out is the largest and oldest section of the citadel. Dating from 1350 B.C. the Cyclopean Walls are part of the original defense system.
Due to the basic technology of the time, it is impossible that men could construct walls with such massive stones. Only the gigantic one-eyed Cyclops could build these walls, hence the name.
Lions Gate.
One of the most recognizable spots of the site is this entrance gate with two female lions on top. However, it was not part of the original construction. The gate, along with newer walls on the west and south date from approximately one hundred years later.
The Citadel.
Inside the wall is the citadel with the remains of homes, barracks, public buildings, storehouses, and a cistern.
Palace of Mycenae.
Sitting on the acropolis of the hill is the site of the palace. The Great Ramp would lead from the area inside the Lions Gate to the Propylaea. Today, a paved walk follows a similar course.
The Great Ramp.
The ramp would be easy to defend and impress visitors. It would also allow the king to check out who is approaching.
The Propylaea.
Consisting of two single-columned, roofed porticoes back-to-back, this was the arch that would lead to a courtyard. Only two pillar bases remain. The building of the Temple to Hera or Athena on this site erased most of the Mycenean structure.
West Portal.
Once the entrance to the more formal parts of the building, today all that remains is a large stone threshold. Unfortunately, much of the structure to the south has collapsed over time
The Forecourt.
Resembling the floor plan of palaces at Tiryns and Pylos this is the only area that is remaining. The upper surface was probably a series of painted squares, similar to other Mycenean palace decorations. The view of the valley is impressive.
The Megaron.
Beyond the forecourt are ruins like other Mycenean palaces. This leads archeologists to consider this area a Megaron or throne room.
Outside the Mycenae Citadel.
When you pass through the Lions Gate, you come across this newer fortified area. It appears to be inside the citadel but was actually just outside. This circular area with a 90-foot diameter was home to six royal shaft graves. This is Circle A.
Luckily, the looters do not find them. During excavations in 1876, they unearth funerary gifts including gold death masks, sets of weapons, gold jewelry, and more. This is where they discover the gold “Death Mask of Agamemnon”.
However, we know he is mythical, and later testing dates the mask to 300 years before Agamemnon.
It is now in the Mycenean Collection of the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.
Later expansions of the city will enclose Circle A inside the citadel.
Mycenae’s Grave Circle B.
Between the parking area and the citadel is this funerary enclosure containing royal and aristocratic graves from circa 1700 B.C.
Tomb of Clytemnestra
This vaulted tomb dates to circa 1,200 B.C. Although looted hundreds of years before its rediscovery, they did find a few pieces of gold jewelry. Thus, giving it the name of the mythological queen.
Vaulted Tomb of Aegisthus.
Next to the tomb of Clytemnestra is the tomb of her mythological lover. He would kill Agamemnon and rule over Mycenae for eight years. Orestes, Agamemnon’s son avenges his father’s death by killing Aegisthus and his mother.
Access to the tombs is from the path leading to the Lions Gate.
Archaeological Museum.
Along the path from the parking area to the citadel is the two-story Archaeological Museum of Mycenae.
Due to looting, the collection is small. It includes pots, housewares, weapons, carvings, ornaments, and some jewelry from the site.
Treasury of Atreus.
When departing the parking area, you will see a pull-off for this site a few hundred yards down the road. This is probably the best example of a vaulted tomb anywhere in Greece.
Like the other tombs in Circle B, it was empty, giving up little information. Many call it the Tomb of Agamemnon.
Tiryns.
Just over ten miles south, between the sea and Mycenae, is this Mycenaean archaeological site.
Mythical Proetus, the sibling of Acrisius, king of Argos, builds the city using cyclops.
This is where Heracles will perform his Twelve Labors.
In reality, Tiryns is a hill fort less than two miles from the coast. Evidence points to occupation here stretching back seven thousand years, from before the Bronze Age.
Archeologists believe its most important period was between 1400 and 1200 B.C.
Writings indicate it was an important center of the Mycenaean world. The population may have been 10,000 people or more.
Like other Mycenean palaces, it features Cyclopean walls and tunnels. The floor plan is similar to other palaces such as Mycenae.
In its megaron, there is a throne along the right wall. A central hearth has four Minoan-style wooden columns serving as supports for the roof.
Later, a temple of Hera will incorporate two of the walls. Two of the three walls of the megaron become part of an archaic temple of Hera.
The site, like most of the Mycenean world, went into decline circa 1150 B.C. By the time the Romans arrive circa 63 B.C. there is no one remaining.
Excavations of the palace begin circa 1831 by Friedrich Thiersch.
Heinrich Schliemann, famous for excavating with dynamite, wants to blow it up and see what is underneath the palace. Luckily, smarter minds prevail.
Tiryns shares the UNESCO World Heritage status with Mycenae.
Cyclopean Walls.
Larger, and in better shape than those at Mycenae, these are worth seeing up close. More than eight feet thick in places and over 42 feet high, they are an engineering feat. They were probably wider and taller at one time. Tunnels run between several of them.
Citadel.
The Great Ramp still leads to the entrance of the citadel. Foundations clearly mark the great courtyard and Megaron.
Mycenae and Tiryns Summary.
The drive from Athens is just over 90 minutes depending on traffic. It is easily a day trip. Many will combine it with a stop at Epidaurus, another UNESCO site in the area.
From Nafplion, the drive is around 30 minutes to Mycenae and even less to Tiryns.
Using Nafplio as a base really frees up your day to spend more time at the site. You can also explore other Mycenaean sites and tombs.
Whatever you do, don’t forget to visit the Peloponnese.
Then visit the Collection of Mycenaean Antiquities in Athens. This will finish the picture.
Read more about Nafplio.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.
Mycenae and the story of King Agamemnon have intrigued me since I studied Greek History in college. It is fascinating the societies and structures they built and the technology and Civic philosophies that made our modern world possible. A great traveler once summarized: “The Greeks did it first, and they did it best.”. The mythological stories provide a timeless tale of those early years. It was a thrill to see Mycenae in person and I look forward to many Greek adventures of my own.
Really enjoyed this, Thom. My Greek History is obviously deficient. Read some Edith Hamilton in college. Should reread it. Thanks, Thom, and also thanks, Michael, for your comments.
The architecture is magnificent – and the mysteries surrounding the ability for humans to construct such massive structures is fascinating. Gives a whole new meaning to a Herculean effort! Thank you Thomas.