THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
For some reason, I tend to find myself near the Mediterranian in the first week of November. And often, that includes Athens, Greece.
But it is 2020, and physically traveling to Europe is just not in the plans.
Thank goodness for imagination, and I can get there.
Care to come with me?
Syntagma Square.
Depending on hotel rates, I try to stay somewhere near Syntagma Square, in front of the former Royal Palace.
Today, the building serves as the house of Parliament.
The Monument of the Unknown Soldier faces the Square.
I walk down the right side of the square with the palace behind me, passing several lovely hotels. I have been lucky to overnight in several of them.
Continuing along Karagiorgi Servias Street, I depart Syntagma and walk to the next corner, Voulis Street.
By now, I am low on strength and need a break.
Luckily, I turn right, and a half-block up is my kind of urgent care.
Chocolate in Greece? What do they know about chocolate?
I will admit, it is one of 6-8 things the Greeks did not invent. But, cocoa powder has been in Greece since the 1700s.
Circa 1850, they were commercially producing chocolate. So they are getting the hang of it.
After choosing several choices, (you must “balance” your sugars), I head back to Karagiorgi Servias Street.
The Plaka.
Where “exactly” does the Plaka begin? WAIT!
What is the Plaka?
The Plaka is the old historical neighborhood of Athens. It clings to the base of the Acropolis on the northern and eastern slopes.
Where does it start? No one knows the exact spot. The Plaka of today is 4-7 layers on top of the original neighborhood.
So we are all on the same page. Let’s say it began as soon as we left Syntagma.
Here, the roads are one lane with wide areas for sidewalks.
What were the Greeks thinking?
Well, 3400 years ago, there were fewer tour buses in Athens. There were not even tour chariots. The street was for moving supplies, and the sidewalks were for walking and the stalls lining them.
The Plaka is still a place for pedestrians with few streets allowing traffic.
A Plaka For The Locals.
I like to stay on this street as it seems to attract fewer tourists and more locals.
I have nothing against seeing Americans, but it is not my main reason for traveling halfway around the globe.
Something I do like is taking my time to stroll this street, looking up. The detail on so many of the buildings is in sharp contrast to the street level’s bright display windows.
If you wander to your right a block or two, you will get a real feel for the local Plaka. You can also find numerous cafes.
Follow Karagiorgi Servias Street to Athinas Street at the end.
True, Athens does not have as many tree-lined streets as Paris. A complaint I hear so many more times than I ever should.
Here, you can see a lovely Athen’s street complete with trees. Turn left.
A block’s walk brings you to another square.
(F.Y.I – Paris has fewer Greek ruins than Athens.)
Monastiraki Square.
The name makes the ears on shoppers perk. One of the largest tourist attractions in Athens, the Monastiraki flea-market, is to the right.
However, I like to focus on everything these people miss as they flock to the flea market.
Church of the Pantanassa.
This Greek Orthodox church from the 10th century A.D. (or earlier) is the reason behind the square’s name. Well, actually, the monastery that it was once part of is the reason for the name.
The bell tower is much newer. Many people ask, why did they build it in a hole? They did not. That was the level of the square in the 10th century. Every century, they build upon the last century. Think about what may be underneath.
Monastiraki Station.
On the far side of the square to the right is the metro station for this area. Good to know for later. The flea market’s main street begins just to the right of the station.
Tzisdarakis Mosque.
To the left of the station is this four-story structure with a terracotta tile dome. Dating from circa 1769. After serving as a mosque, it was an assembly building for the locals during the Greek War of Independence. It would also serve as a prison, barracks, and storehouse.
Today, it is an annex of the Museum of Greek Folk Art. The building on the hill directly behind (above) it is the Erechtheion, an older small temple to Athena and Poseidon. Directly behind it is a newer, larger temple to Athena only, the Parthenon.
Hadrian’s Library.
Directly behind the mosque are the remains of the 132 A.D. Hadrian’s Library, a gift to the city from the Roman emperor. Legend says the builders of the mosque were using the library as an ancient Home Depot for building material. Hadrian had a crush on Athen’s since his childhood studies. During his 21-year reign (117-138 A.D.), he would endow Athen’s with numerous works, including the library.
Fethiye Mosque Museum.
A half-block up on your left, this circa 1668 structure sits on a previous mosque and Byzantine church. Today, after a refurbishment circa 2017, it serves as an exhibition hall.
Just before reaching the mosque, turn left. Walk until the street turns left. Do not turn left, but stop and turn right.
Tower of the Winds.
Evidence points to it dating from the 2nd century B.C. The tower is 36 feet tall with a diameter of 24 feet. There was a weathervane on the top and a waterclock inside. The sculptures near the top of all eight walls are the wind deities. Below each one, there was a sundial. Think early clock tower.
Keeping the tower on your right, follow the pedestrian walk up and to your right.
People laugh when I say around just about every corner is some ancient ruin.
Madrasah Gate
On your left, as you climb up the pedestrian walk, is all that remains of a 1721 Islamic theological school. Later the structure would become a prison famous for ruthless treatment and hangings.
Museum of Greek Popular Musical Instruments.
To the right of the gate, the yellow former house is now a music museum. It contains more than 600 Greek musical instruments from the last 300 years.
Roman Agora.
With space at a premium in the old Greek Agora, the Romans built a new agora 100 yards east. Much of the agora is under the buildings you see around it.
Two Roads Diverge by the Wind Tower.
You can, really, it’s up to you, continue around the agora fence to your left, the path more traveled.
Or, turn so the tower is behind you and the walking path on your left. The street on your right, making a 90-degree turn in front of you. Follow the street, walking with traffic.
Bath House of the Winds.
Plaka Stairs.
Anafiotika.
From here, climbing up the hill, predominantly to your left, is the small neighborhood of Anafiotika. Circa 1850, workers from the island of Anafi, near Santorini, coming to Athens for work, began settling here.
Homesick, they began whitewashing everything to remind them of their Cycladic home. There are no real streets in this area. Steps and narrow alleys (like the Cyclades) wind around this area.
You can turn left and try to find one of the narrow stairways leading further up into this neighborhood. You can turn right, and then a left, and you are on a scenic path-street around the Acropolis. Of course, some people do go both ways. Or climb up into one of the several tavernas for a cold drink and great views.
Great perspective of the Plaka from above the Plaka.
How Do You Get Out of the Plaka?
If you are at the top of the steps by Anafiotika, turn right, but do not make the Acropolis left. Continue on this street, keeping to the right. You will pass the Athens University History Museum, which gives a great view of the history of upper education in Athens.
Continue along the street until it turns right. On your left is the Museum of Modern Greek Culture. Part of the Folklore Museum collection of museums, this one focuses on Greek tools through the centuries.
Continue downhill, and you come out above the Roman Agora. Follow the agora fence to your left around to where you see four columns.
Gate of Athena Archegetis.
A gift from Julius Ceasar circa 11 B.C., the gate is the only other major structure remaining beside the Tower. Unfortunately, for now, the Roman Agora is just a Kodak moment. But turn around with the gate to your back.
The ruins on the other side of the street are of the Library of Pantainos. They are part of the Ancient Greek Agora, a should-see most people skip. Unfortunately, to reach the agora entrance is an eight-minute walk outside the fence to the north entrance.
The first street to the right of the library will bring you back to Hadrian’s Library. Just beyond is Monastiraki Square (and metro station).
For those still walking, just to the right of the church is Mitropoleos Street, which will take you back to Syntagma a different way.
Who’s holding out for a Gyro?
Walking up Mitropoleos, a few blocks from Syntagma, you will see a little church under a big hotel on the right. This is the corner of Pentelis street.
To your right, there will probably be a crowd out front of a small storefront. Nothing fancy, and there are no tables, Kostas makes my favorite gyros in Athens. They are a little on the small side, so order an extra one. I think they are worth the wait.
Is this the only route? Heck no. I walk the Plaka every time I visit, and no two routes are identical. Explore the Plaka for yourself.
Scroll down to the “Please Leave a Reply” section at the bottom. Please tell me your thoughts on:
“Where would you like to explore in the Plaka?”
Please help me spread the news by rating, commenting, and sharing this blog below. – THANKS!
“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.