THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
When people hear the word Greece, they immediately think of white columns.
For good reason, Greece gave the world Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian columns long before anyone else.
But that is not the only architectural style you will find in Greece. Being around since the beginning of Europe, Greece has numerous types.
One of the more popular, or at least with many examples remaining, is Byzantine.
Byzantine Architecture.
When Constantine the Great splits the Roman Empire circa 330 A.D., he moves his capital to Byzantium. From this, the eastern half of the Roman empire becomes the Byzantine Empire.
Later, they rename their capital in his honor, Constantinople. Now it’s Istanbul, not Constantinople…
The Byzantine era will last until the Byzantine Empire falls circa 1453.
Byzantine architecture begins with the basics of Roman, which came from the Greek style.
But the architecture of Byzantium would start to take on ambitious traits of Asian or Arabic styles. They would add domes and round arches. The Corinthian column will become the Byzantine column with individual ornamentation.
The interior of the churches will become brighter due to the windows in the new domes. Also, large gold mosaics are reflecting the sun.
This architecture will later inspire the Gothic and Renaissance styles.
Bricks and stones are the primary building materials while decorations were floor mosaics and wall paintings.
Later, marble will replace stones in the floor. In addition, mosaics would replace wall paintings as their stone and glass tiles did not fade.
Furniture from precious woods, often with silver or gold accents, would complete the interiors.
At the beginning of the Byzantine style, glass was still something for jewelry and small bottles or cups. From the cups, Byzantine lamps would develop in the fifth century, replacing clay.
Glass windows would come next, but they were only to keep the weather out and let light in.
However, the stained glass would not show up until the late seventh century.
Mystras.
Mystras would be a late addition to the Byzantine world.
With the sacking of Constantinople circa 1204, the now crumbling Byzantine empire breaks into many pieces. Without the army to defend its western reaches, Constantinople loses control of much of Greece. As a result, the wealthy go on a real estate frenzy, grabbing up areas and creating their little domains.
Greece would break into the Kingdom of Thessalonika in the north. The Despotate of Epirus would control most of the western Greek mainland. The Duchy of Athens would have current day Attica, and the Principality of Achaea would control the Morea (Peloponnese.)
Circa 1248, the ruler of the Achaea, William II of Villehardouin, captures the last Byzantine outpost in Morea, Monemvasia.
He builds three new fortifications to protect his Kingdom. The Grand Magne is on the Mani peninsula in the southwest. Leuktron, possibly in the north, and near his residence in Lacedaemon, the fortress of Mystra.
Circa 1261, the Byzantine Empire regains control. William II, still a Frank at heart, immediately renounces his loyalty to Constantinople and attempts to regain his land.
As a result of all this fighting, the citizens of Lacedaemon move to higher ground. Their new town is under the fortress of Mystras.
The Byzantine emperor makes Mystras a royal capital circa 1349 A.D. He creates the first Despot to rule over Morea.
The Morea and Mystras will change rulers several times over the next 100+ years but, for the most part, both flourish.
This time period is the Renaissance, and it will be a golden time for Mystras. As a result, culture will soar, and the city will attract sought-after teachers, artists, and architects.
Then circa 1460, the Ottomans take over.
Ottoman Mystras.
Like much of Greece, the Ottomans leave the people to live their lives as long as they pay their taxes.
The Venetians will seize Mystras circa 1687 and hold on to it for nearly 30 years. Circa 1715, the Ottomans regain control and hold on to it until 1821.
With the arrival of the Russian navy in 1770, Mystra joins the Orlov revolt. Short on troops, the Ottomans hire Albanian mercenaries to fight the Greek rebels.
Within the year, Russia pulls its support. The Ottomans cannot pay the Albanians who go on a pillaging and murderous spree across Greece and the Peloponesse. They leave Mystras in ruins.
Greek War of Independence.
Mystras receives its final blow when Egyptian troops supporting the Ottomans arrive from the south. They march north, massacring and destroying every village and town in their path. The remaining Mystrasians move to the new villages of Sparti or New Mystras nearby.
By 1953, there was no one remaining in Mystras. Today, the only inhabitants are a few nuns in the Pantanassa Monastery.
Since 1989, Mystras has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Should See Mystras.
I suggest starting at the top (West gate) and working your way down. Today, a modern road allows access to the upper and lower towns.
Acropolis and Fortification Castle.
Unfortunately, the Acropolis and original fortification require an additional climb by foot. However, for being almost 800 years old, many of the walls are in excellent shape. The views on a clear day are magnificent. The town lies below the fortress.
Upper City.
Church of Agia Sofia.
This Byzantine church is a short (uphill) climb from the West gate. This stone structure, dating from the mid-14th century, has several wall paintings inside.
Palace of Despots Complex.
Home to the ruler of the Achaea, this structure becomes a royal palace circa 1349 A.D. At its zenith, it is the second most important palace of the Byzantine Empire, outside of Constantinople.
After decades of refurbishments, it is the jewel of the site again.
Agios Nikolaos Church.
A four-minute walk from the palace is the remains of this church. Dating from the 17th century, this is the only sizeable public church they build within Mystras after the Ottoman takeover.
Although in need of T.L.C., you can still see frescos telling the story of Saint Nicholas. However, the best fresco is of the Archangel Gabriel.
Pantanassa Holy Convent.
A three-minute walk from St Nicholas is this 14th-century monastery, the only one with residents. The bell tower and main church (catholicon) are impressive. Inside, some of the frescoes date from the 14th century.
Middle City.
Church of Agioi Theodoroi.
To reach this site, we need to backtrack from Pantanassa. However, where the path goes left to St Nicholas, keep right. From here, it is approximately a 5-minute walk. The church of Agioi Theodoroi dates from the 13th century. It is an octagonal shape with lateral chapels. The dome, sitting on eight props, is an excellent example of architecture from this time.
Church of Panagia Hodegetria / Vrontochi Monastery
Within sight of St Theodoroi is this church of our Lady Hodegetria (Leader of the Way.) The decorations indicate it is from circa 1310. Here, you can see wall paintings that represent the healing of the blind man and other Biblical scenes.
Virgin Mary Perivleptos Monastery.
Backtracking, a six-minute walk past the Pantanassa convent, brings you to this monastery, probably built circa the mid-14th century.
The first Despot of the Morea, Manuel Kantakouzenos, is responsible for its construction. Its name comes from the Byzantine monastery in Constantinople of the same name. It is an excellent example of the Mystras style of architecture. The style resembles a castle.
Saint George Holy Chapel.
Just below the monastery is this private chapel. Like many small chapels in Mystra, it was an aristocratic family’s chapel. Besides a church, it is also the burial place for the family’s members.
Cathedral of Agios Demetrios.
This church is one of the most important in Mystras. This cathedral, dating from circa 1292 A.D., is five minutes from St Christopher’s.
The structure is a mix of architectural styles. The main floor dates from the 13th century, but the upper floor church dates from the 15th century. Hence, the different types.
They will crown Constantinos Paleologos, the last Byzantine emperor, here in 1449.
Archaeological Museum.
The Museum of Mystras hosts primarily Ecclesiastical items from the Byzantine period. You will find it in the yard of Agios Demetrios Cathedral.
The main entrance to the site is near here. If you can arrange to have, your transportation pick you up here your feet will thank you.
Near By Mystras.
Archeological Site of Keadas.
Approximately 20 minutes drive further into the hills behind Mystras is this site for Spartan fans. A long flight of stairs, I lost count at 100, leads to this hole in the ground.
Legend says that this deep ravine is where ancient Spartans would toss their enemies to their death. Not only did that include war prisoners, but also young Spartan males not showing “soldier material.”
I guess being the last choice for kickball in grade school wasn’t so bad.
Ancient Sparta.
Sparta! Just the name conjures up images of one of the fiercest city-states of Ancient Greece. You imagine great temples, theaters, and government buildings. Well, keep imagining.
That doesn’t mean the modern town of Sparti does not have them; they just don’t flaunt them.
Poor Greece has so many ancient sites. They have to choose which one is going to get money for excavating and promoting.
Before Sparti catches the tourism bug, the new town is sitting on top of the ancient city.
Ancient Theater of Sparta.
If you happen to miss the theaters in Athens or Edidaurus, then this might be interesting.
You can see it was significant. Estimates say its capacity was around 17,000.
What remains is a Roman theater circa 30 B.C., probably on top of an earlier Greek theater.
Bring a good imagination.
The Tomb of Leonidas.
In the middle of a neighborhood park are the few remains of the tomb of the Spartan king.
He is the leader of the 300 Spartans during the 480 B.C. Battle of Thermopylae.
I guess I expect more for the local hero.
Mystras Summary.
Mystras is a three-hour drive from Athens, so it is not a great “day trip.”
However, from Nauplio it is two hours, and only around 90 minutes from Monemvasia. Road Trip!!!
Visit the Peloponesse before others discover this hidden gem.
Read more about Greece.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.