THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
From last week, how many people are still savoring a piece of cheese and some Parma ham on their castle’s terrace?
Or at least the view across your kingdom?
Driving through the rolling hills and fruited plains of Western Parma, we found some real gems.
What about Eastern Parma? Is there anything worth seeing?
Remember, you can click any orange link for more information.
Eastern Parma
Departing from Parma, the first stop is only a 20-minutes drive to the south.
Corte di Giarola
Beginning as a nobleman’s fortified garrison in the 9th century, it became a monastery circa 1034 A.D. They build houses, stables, a dairy, and mill using water from a small canal. Parts of the channel are still visible behind the compound.
It grows, someone knocks it down. They rebuild, then there’s another attack. This history is typical of this area.
There is a church, dating from the 1200s, on the same spot, but probably no longer containing any original sections. They are only two hundred years old instead of six hundred.
Today it is under the Park Management Authority and a biodiversity organization. The compound now houses its headquarters, a theater, exhibition halls, and an exhibit of a historical laboratory. These are not the reason we are here.
The Museum of Tomato now occupies the wing that was once the stables. Across the courtyard is the separate Museum of Pasta. REALLY! The bad news is, there are no tastings as part of the tour.
Both museums consist of one long hall and tell the history of their subject locally. If you like pasta with tomato sauce, this is an interesting angle to see.
The good news, all of the descriptions have translations in English. When you get away from the major cities, this is not always the case. Eastern Parma has some fascinating museums.
Parco dei Boschi di Carrega
Fifteen minutes to the east is this once noble hunting estate, now a public park. See if this sounds familiar? The grounds originally belong to the counts of Sala Baganza Sanvitale. Circa 1612, the Farnese Dukes steal them. Circa 1731, the lands pass into the new Bourbon-Parma Duchy. Duchess Maria Amalia commissions the reconstruction of the small hunting lodge into a neoclassical ducal residence.
Today, it is a regional park, slowly restoring much of the grounds and structures. The second villa (Villa del Ferlaro) is now an event space for weddings.
Casino dei Boschi, the original house, is now the park offices, meeting spaces, and an exhibition gallery.
In the warmer months, the monumental garden offers guided tours, including the garden of the nearby Villa del Ferlaro. Or just walk the grounds and park, like a Duke or Dutchess.
Rocca Di Sala Baganza (Website in Italian)
Head into the town of Sala Baganza for the next site, less than 10-minutes away. This Sanvitale fortress, dating from circa 1477, becomes a possession of the Farnese Dukes circa 1612. They will develop it into a summer residence. By the time they finish, only part of one original wall remains. Stand in the grassy quad and see if you can tell which one.
Today, you can tour the 16th-century halls with their frescos and the 1795 Assunta Oratory. The Rocca is open on weekends. Reservations are necessary for weekdays.
In the sellers and former ice chest, is the Wine Museum. Take an educational walk through the history of winemaking in the area. It is not a wine tasting. But Eastern Parma has places you can find wine.
Felino Castle
Ten minutes south is this hilltop that began as a Roman military Castrum (camp.) In the 1200s, the castle becomes part of the powerful Rossi family’s defensive system. Much of the structure dates from this period. Like many structures in the area, it will be home to the Sforza, French nobility, and Pallavicini family.
Circa 1762 it becomes the property of Leon-Guillame du Tillot, minister of the Parma Duchy and Marquis of Felino. A wise businessman, he turns the Dutchy into a moneymaker, using the Salame di Felino and other local products.
Today, much of the castle is a private event space. The museum in the lower level is one of the Parma Food Museums. The Salame di Felino Museum allows you to tour several sections of the castle. FYI – All the descriptions are in Italian. Pre-arranging an English-speaking guide is not a bad idea and reasonable if you are a group of four.
Unlike the wine museum, this one comes with a tasting. You can opt-out of the tasting and save 2 euro, but why would you do that? How often do you get a chance to sample (Indication of Geographic Protection) I.G.P.-Salame di Felino in Felino Castle? Do not think of leaving Eastern Parma without sampling.
Castle of Torrechiara
Construction begins on Torrechiara Castle circa 1450 by the Magnificent Pier Maria Rossi. Does the name ring any bells? He is the one who builds the house for his wife with the name of his mistress.
This palace he creates for his married mistress at the other end of the kingdom. He may not be loyal, but he’s smart enough to keep them apart.
The outside fortress gives you no idea of the elegant interior. The duke adds numerous colorful frescoes and the Camera d’Oro, or Golden Room.
Detour Time: A ten-minute drive south brings you to another culinary museum, but this one is not in a castle. The Museo del Prosciutto di Parma is everything you want to know about Parma Ham.
You can include a tasting with your tour or stop by the museum’s restaurant for a meal with cheese. If you go hungry in Eastern Parma, you are doing something wrong.
Honorable Mention:
The Castello di Corniglio is an impressive structure. Sitting on the foundations of a circa 1240 castle, the current castle (well parts) date from the 1400s. It has many restorations. Owners include the Rossi, Farnese, and Maria Luigia, second wife of Napoleon. She is the one who passes it to the municipality circa 1820.
It has the history, the royal lineage, so why only honorable mention? It is still the municipal building, so you can only visit the exterior. The castle is approximately 40-minutes south from the Ham Museum, two hours from Parma. Unless you are driving to La Spezia, it is a long way to go to see a small castle.
If you just need some downtime, the smaller roads around Corniglio can be scenic. You may see fragments of castles here and there.
Some Alternatives
Castello di Montechiarugolo.
There is one other large Eastern Parma castle across the river from castles in the Reggio – Emilia region. Therefore, it makes more sense to visit when in that region.
If you want to add it to your program, it is approximately 30 minutes northeast of the Museo del Prosciutto. The castle today dates from the 1300s and sits on the remains of an earlier structure. Much of the present castle dates from the 1400s as they were adding on and rebuilding. Guess who grabs it in 1612? Does the name Farnese Dukes ring a bell? Napoleon includes it during his take over.
Today, it is a private residence. I recommend a guide book as there was very little in English during my visit several years ago.
Parma is just over 30-minutes from the Prosciutto Museum.
If you still have some energy, there are several wineries near Torrechiara with views of the castle.
Eastern Parma Summary
Eastern Parma does not have quite as many castles, but it still has plenty to see and taste.
Is this list a complete list of everything there is to see, do, and eat? Hardly. But it will keep you busy and give you an exceptional understanding of the area.
Doing everything above will take the better part of a day, depending on your level of activity and interest.
Take a look at their web sites (orange links) to see what spots interest you the most.
Then get planning. And do not forget to see Parma.
Read more about Parma.
Western Parma
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.