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May 19, 2019 – Aegina

THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION


WHERE TO?                  THE SENSES.


Athens Secret Backyard.

Where do the people of Athens go to get away for the weekend? Santorini? Mykonos?

Many go to an island but one closer to home. Of the three islands closest to Piraeus, the port for Athens, Aegina, Hydra, and Poros, Aegina is the most popular.

The small boat harbor in Aegina Town.

On a clear day, you can see it from Athen’s coast. Approximately 55 minutes away on a high-speed ferry is this big city tranquilizer.

Many Athenians have weekend homes here, and there are a few locals who commute to Athens for work.

Why Aegina? 

Two hours from the house or office in Athens and you are on an island. And island time is already soaking into your tight shoulders and sore back and aching feet. They are already at their weekend retreat or sipping a glass of local wine with their friends along the waterfront. Soon they will be watching the sun setting over the Peloponesse.

With every mile, the hustle and bustle get further away.

Why Aegina? Because there are great beaches on the southeast side of the island and hiking paths everywhere.

The people eating in the tavernas are locals or weekend transplants from Greece. No restaurant is going to be trying to pass off frozen mousaka or saganaki.

In the coastal village of Perdika on the west coast, you sit in sight of the fishing boats. (Your dinner came from these boats a few hours ago.) You could eat in a different seaside taverna every night for a week without repeating. That’s why Aegena.

The fishing village of Perdika.

Wait a minute! I don’t own a house or weekend place on this island. Why would I want to go to Aegina?

 

Why Aegina is Right for You.

Even better, you don’t have to deal with a leaky pipe or taxes.

There is everything from quaint B&Bs to luxury seaside resorts and rentals. And they do not have the silly prices that Santorini and Mykonos do now.

As you step off the ferry, (there is an airport, but who needs that stress?) you feel the island.

The Temple of Apollo and the ancient city.

To your left is your first sighting of Greek ruins on the island. To the right is the waterfront crescent facing the small boat harbor. Aegina town, where you arrive, is on the west coast, so you’re already in place for a Greek sunset.

Aegina Town Waterfront

Can You Taste the Tzatziki?

Remember me talking about local food for locals a minute ago? Well, guess what? As of spring 2019, you cannot find one golden arch or scary paper-mache king on the island. So guess what? You are going to be eating the incredible local cuisine.

The island has several local kinds of cheese and even honey. Ask anyone on the island, and they will tell you their olive oil is better than any other islands.

The only Pistachios I eat.

And then there are the pistachios. Is it the soil? The perfect amount of moisture or sun? Who knows. But they grow pistachios like nowhere else in the world. If for no other reason than the local nuts, that’s why Aegina.

For more on Aegina Cuisine, click the orange link.

 

But You Ain’t Seen Nothing Yet.

Remember that Greek ruin you saw upon entering the harbor? That is (was) the Temple of Apollo and the top of the ancient city. Visit the Archeological Museum at the foot of the temple hill. It includes access to the site. The museum contains artifacts from the island’s history, some dating back to 2,000 B.C.

Paleochora (also Paliachora) is a medieval hill town dating from the ninth century. It was the capital of the island until 1826. Today, it is a ghost town.

Paleochora, or what is remaining.

There are several other interesting sites around the island. But the number one “why Aegina” is the Temple of Athena Aphaia. The current temple, dating from 480 B.C., sits on the site of a previous temple.

Temple of Athena Aphaia.

There is a small museum at the site. It has limited hours that seem to change. If you find it open, you may learn the connection between this temple, the temple at Sounion and the Parthenon.

The views from here on a clear day are impressive.

Take a Hike.

There are several trails around the island of various physical levels. I don’t think you want to try any of these between June and September. There is a limited amount of shade on most of them. In the spring and fall, a half day walk will show you why Aegina is a remedy for the stressed.

The views from above can be breath-taking.

 

And Then There are the People.

This island is not a touristy island except for those 2-3 hours when the tour boat hits. The island does not get cruise ships that are larger than it is. For the most part, you are dealing with locals and Greeks from the mainland.

They don’t treat you like tourists. The only downside is that you may not find as many storekeepers or restaurant staff who speak fluent English. But isn’t that part of the charm? The immersion?

Fish in the local market. No U.S. price tags here.

After 20+ years visiting Greece, my Greek vocabulary is still in the learning stages. It consists of asking how your octopus is today, and that’s about it. I have yet to visit an island or mainland village where we were not able to communicate on some level. It doesn’t hurt to learn “hello’, “Thank you and “Where is the restroom?” in the local language.

 

So Why Aegina?

I hope you now know why Aegina is a great place to put your feet up for a few days. You can race over in the morning, touring like a crazy person, then catch an evening ferry the same day. (Something I am guilty of doing once.)

Even I can be a tourist sometimes.

Or worse, see it on an eight-hour tour that includes three islands. (You will never see me doing that.)

But don’t. Spend at least one night as you need to experience an Aegina day and evening. See sunset and sunrise.

Don’t take my word for it; go experience Aegina for yourself. You will understand why Aegina.

Click Here for more information on Aegina.

 

Please comment in the section below. Have you ever been anywhere where you were, or felt like you were, the only out-of-towner?

 

 

 

“See Italy” Continued on Page T3         Taste Tarragona Spain” Continued on T4

 

 

 

 

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