Recently, we were talking about German, English, and French castles, and certainly about those American in style.
But we did not talk much about the Castellos of Italia.
Are there any castles in Italy? There are over 650 castles and towers in various levels of restoration or decay that have names. There are probably a few hundred more with no recognizable pieces remaining.
If you add the island of Sicily, the number goes to more than 1000.
Did you pour yourself a caffè molto grande?
Emilia – Romagna Castles
We are going to focus on the castles of the Emilia – Romagna region. Hiding in plain sight between Milan – Venice – Florence, most Americans miss it.
What a shame.
A few things we like from the area include Parmasian Cheese, Parma Ham, Balsamic Vinegar, Lambrusco, Maserati, Lamborghini, and Ferrari.
NOW, that I have your attention, let’s take a look at what else they have.
The Emilia-Romagna region has one culinary must-taste after another. Bologna is the culinary capital. Modena is the birthplace of Balsamic vinegar and boasts the region’s only 3-star Michelin restaurant.
There are Ravenna and Ferrara for art lovers. Bagno di Romagna has vineyards that rub leaves with the vines of Tuscany.
Emilia – Romagna has close to 70 castles across its nine provinces, stretching from Piacenza to Rimini.
Maybe we need to reduce our range a little bit more.
Parma Castles
The region of Parma boasts more than just castles. For music lovers, there are local musicians Giuseppe Verdi and Arturo Toscanini. Luciano Pavarotti comes from nearby Modena. There are the local ham and cheese that you can make into a meal. Trust me I know.
It’s a great city to start a tour of Parma castles from as there are two right in the city. The Ducal palaces of the Dukes of Parma.
Remember, you can click any orange link for more information.
Western Parma Castles.
The region of Parma has more than 20 other castles besides the two in the town of Parma. Let’s break it down even further. Today we will focus on Western Parma and its castles. The first drive, heading north out of the city, will take approximately 30 minutes.
The actual building of the castle is not apparent, but we know the Farnese family seizes it circa 1612. They need a little love nest for their son, who marries Princess Margherita Violante of Savoy. (House of Savoy.) You will see the Farnese name in the history of several western Parma castles and fortresses.
1749 and the Bourbon-Parma Dukes are in charge. One of the males marries Louise Elisabeth, the daughter of the French King Luigi XV. They import French artisans to transfer the interior, so it is similar to Versailles, for the homesick Louise.
The next tenant will be Maria Luigia of Austria, second wife of the guy who conquers Italy, Napoleon.
Another 15-minute drive west brings you to this lovely little shack. Dating from circa 1400, Magnifico Pier Rossi acquires it and names it for his mistress, Bianca.
Though there are numerous renovations, much of the earlier parts are still intact. You can see there was a moat. Besides visits, it is busy today for weddings. You will see Rossi connections to several western Parma castles.
Rocca dei Rossi di San Secondo
Approximately 12-minutes drive south is this medieval fortress (circa 1513) that later became a Renaissance home for Pier Rossi’s wife Antonia. In “keeping up with the Smiths” (in this case, the Dukes of Parma), there are magnificent frescoes everywhere. You need to pre-arrange tours in English.
Rocca Sanvitale (Website in Italian)
Sitting on 12th-century foundations, this 14th-century fortress turned residence is a favorite of many. It’s probably the moat. The Sanvitale Counts will inhabit the property for almost six centuries, until 1948. Besides exploring the Rocca, the municipality has many events in and around the structure, especially in the spring and fall.
Fortress Meli Lupi of Soragna
Fifteen-minutes to the northwest is a miracle, a fortress still in the same family after 600 years. Circa 1392 Marchesi Bonifacio and Antonio Lupi build the outer walls after receiving feudal investiture from Charles IV. From the outside, it looks well protected. They did not build a lavish castle inside being the envy of everyone else. From the 1600s, they fix up the inside but not the outside.
They lose the investiture to Napoleon, but not the property. Today, it is still a residence of the Meli Lupi family. The gardens are open for tours. Interior visits require prior reservations.
Detour: While in Soragna, visit another part of the Meli Lupe estate. The dairy and cheese-making building.
Part of the estate’s farm, responsible for feeding the estate, sits along the southern boundary wall. Here, the round 1848 cheese-making plant and other more recent buildings make up the cheese museum. Former cheese-making instruments and equipment are on display in the former milk room.
Some of the displays have explanations in English, but not enough detail to explain the green shaker-can in one of the displays. Unfortunately, there are no free samples, but they sell cheese in the museum shop. Western Parma has many great cheeses and hams.
15-minutes to the west is Busseto town. There has been a fortress on the same spot since circa 985. The residence of the Pallavicino family is somewhat of a second thought today. The current structure dates from circa 1866, the refurbishing by the town itself.
Its primary claim is the Verdi Theater, a mini-opera house inside for their favorite son, Giuseppe Verdi. Western Parma has opera as well?
Giuseppe Verdi.
You cannot talk about Busseto without a nod to their most famous residence. Entering life here in 1813, he will conquer the opera world, before retiring in this area circa 1851.
His father, who could read, was a store owner, and his mother did spinning. Although not wealthy, they were not the poor peasants later marketing would use to tell the rags to riches story.
Busseto offers a whole day of touring for the Verdi fan. Besides the birthplace, Villa Verdi, (outside of town), there is also the theater and the Verdi museum. For those wanting Verdi the man, check out the birthplace and villa.
The museum focuses on his operas. Set in the Renaissance Villa Pallavicino each room gives an insight into one of Verdi’s masterpieces.
Casa Barezzi is open for visits. Working as a music teacher, the maestro gave his first performance in this house. Later he not only lives here but marries their daughter, Margherita.
Renata Tebaldi
She is not from the Parma area originally, as her birthplace is Pesaro south of Ravenna in Umbria. Her professional debut is in Rovigo, in the Veneto region. Most of her career has her at La Scala in Milan or the Met in New York City. So why are we even talking about her?
She studies at the Conservatory of Parma, and she works with Toscanini in Milan. Still not necessarily a reason to include her in Palma.
Imagine my surprise when walking up to the Verdi Museum, there is a second museum adjacent. The Museo Renata Tebaldi (website in Italian), is in the former Stables of Villa Pallavicino. (Lucky horses.)
The collection, originating with her mother, includes costumes, jewels, personal items, documents, and more. It gives a glimpse into her life. I recommend reservations.
You can spend a day in this area on opera, or mix it up with castles.
More Western Parma Castles.
Castelnuovo Fogliani
Fogliani is approximately 20 minutes south of Busseto and is officially in the region of Piacenza. But as it is on the way, I am taking artistic license.
The “new castle” dates from circa 1650 when it replaces the medieval structure dating from circa 1377? The only remaining portion from that structure is the tower. Visits are by reservation only as it is now part of a private university.
Castello di Scipione dei Marchesi Pallavicino
Continue south approximately 10-minutes to the village of Scipione and the castle on the hill above. Descendants of the Marquises Pallavicino still inhabit the castle. They are one of the few European families with a lineage of more than one thousand years. There are pieces from the 1400s, but much of the building dates from later years. As it is a private residence, I suggest reservations.
Castello di Tabiano
15-minutes east of Salsomaggiore is this fortress dating from the 1000’s. The person who controls this castle also controls much of the mineral springs which they use for salt reclaiming. In those days, especially this far from the sea, salt is gold. There are also mines for salt nearby. The castle goes through numerous restorations over the next 900 years.
Today the village of Tabiano and the castle blend as one. You can tour the castle. Or make a day, and night, of it by renting a room in one of the cottages inside the fortress.
Castle of Contignaco (website in Italian)
This castle sits 10-minutes south of Salsomaggiore, and the best route is back through the spa town. Also, dating from the 1000’s the villa is a visual treat.
Circa 1300 a distant relative of the owners, the Alighieri family, visits. His name is Dante. Did the views inspire him?
Today, a local family owns the castle, and it is private property. You can arrange private events such as weddings, or sample their Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and local wines. You will need a reservation to visit inside.
Castello di Pellegrino Parmense
20-minutes further south is the small village of Pellegrino Parmense with a castle on the hill above. They rebuild the original 981 A.D. structure many times. Today, it is a private residence and not open for visits.
Do not turn left into the town of Pellegrino Parmense, but stay on the SP359R. After you pass the castle and keep climbing, you will have the best castle views behind you.
The next stretch is just under an hour, giving your feet some time to rest.
The drive runs along to top of several hills offering (clouds agreeing) many vast views. After the little village of Pelizone, you begin your descent towards Bardi in the valley.
Fortezza di Bardi
You will begin to see the fortress long before you reach it. Sitting on a rock formation over the town, you cannot miss it.
Dating back more than a thousand years, it is an essential military defense fortress on the Ceno and Noveglia rivers. Circa 900 A.D., the Bishop of Piacenza, buys the area. Circa 1257, the Piacenza municipality, sells it to Ubertino Landi.
The Landi family will own the fortress for the next 400 years. One of them will marry Ercole Grimaldi, father of the first prince of Monaco. Later owners (in absentee for the most part) include the Farnese and the Bourbon-Parma.
Tours in English require a minimum of two days’ notice. The views from the top are worth the climb.
Castello di Golaso.
Take the SP28 along the river. Approximately 20-minutes from Bardi, you will see this magnificent fortress on your left. As I drive by, there is a traffic sign for the entrance, so I turn in.
Then I see laundry hanging from the windows and toys in the yard. This castle is not a tourist site. It appears there is now an agricultural cooperative, but the information is still vague about its history.
Enjoy the view from the road.
Castello di Varano De’ Melegari (Website in Italian)
From here, the Autostrada (toll road) will have you back to the Parma area approximately 30 minutes later.
Western Parma Castles Summary
I recommend the Ceno River castles as an afternoon activity. In the spring and fall, the fortifications near the river can disappear in fog during the morning.
However you decide to do it, stop missing Western Parma.
Read more about Parma.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.