May 10, 2020 – Ancient Delphi Greece

Thom

5 years ago

THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.

Ancient Delphi, on the slope of Mount Parnassus, is a popular full-day excursion from Athens. But is that enough time?

Some say this was the home of Pythia. Others say it was the Oracle. Whatever! One of them was living here as early as 1400 B.C.

Circa 800 B.C., Pythia, an enormous serpent or dragon, was protecting the Earth’s navel. Apollo comes along, kills the dragon, and they begin worshipping him.

Replica of the Serpent Column of Plataea.

So how old is Ancient Delphi? Excavations indicate there were people here by the late 9th century B.C. Artifacts, pottery, and bronze pieces substantiate this period. Unlike many other sites, there seem to be several gods they are worshipping. It appears it was a wide range of gods receiving worshippers.

Let The Ancient Delphi Games Begin

Apollo’s sacred Delphi was a panhellenic sanctuary. Starting circa 586 B.C., athletes from all over the Greek world would gather to compete in the Pythian Games.

The Panhellenic (pan-all,) (Hellenic-Greece) Games took place in four locations around Greece. The two significant events were the Pythian Games at Delphi, and two years later, the games at Olympia.

The ancient Pan-Hellenic games will lead to our modern-day Olympics.

In Olympia, the games are pretty much the sole breadwinner for the area. Delphi did not rely on the games as their cash cow. They have Gaia’s belly button (see Rock City,) and the Oracle (have your credit card ready.)

Religious Ancient Delphi

The name Delphi comes from the same root as the word womb, another reference to mother earth Gaia.

Apollo becomes the only god they worship.

Apollo oversees archery, music, poetry, dance, truth, prophecy, diseases, healing, the sun, light, and more. One of his children is Asclepius, famous for his ability to heal.

In Ancient Delphi, he goes by Apollo Pythios and oversees the Oracle. Also, he wards off evil, oversees seafarers, foreigners, fugitives, and refugees.

Oracle of Ancient Delphi

Another major attraction to Delphi is the oracle, (AKA Pythia, priestess) of the Apollo sanctuary.

Over a vent emitting hallucinogenic fumes, the priests stick an older chase woman. They advise that her subsequent ramblings are Apollo speaking through her. But only the priests, for a donation, could unravel them.

The “answer” would be a jumble with any number of possible outcomes. For instance, “a real leader will succeed.” This response does not say the person asking the question will succeed. If they want to believe that, it’s their choice. In other words, it was the predecessor to the psychic call center and the Magic 8 Ball.

The Omphalos (navel) of mother earth is an outie.

King Phillip, his son Alexander, and many other leaders would visit the oracle over the centuries.

The Romans

Thracian tribes plunder and destroy the temple. Without the temple to raise money, or money to build a temple, the area goes into decline.

115 A.D. Emperor Hadrian, funds the rebuilding of a temple for the oracle. The whole site of Delphi blooms from this.

Hadrian, builds, repairs, and replaces many structures across Greece.

By 324 A.D., the Roman Empire is history, and Constantine is ruling from Byzantium, soon to be Constantinople. Christianity is spreading across the Roman Empire, but it will take another 100 years to affect Delphi.

Finally, in 424, Delphi hosts its last pagan games. When does the pagan oracle close shop? No one is sure.

Ancient Delphi and the Ottomans

For the next 1000 years, Delphi is a backwater. Without games or an oracle, there is no reason to visit.

When the Ottomans take over the Greek mainland and Peloponnese, circa 1453, they find little interest in Delphi. Ahead of the Ottomans, the locals flee, so Delphi begins a long period of desolation.

The Ottomans put the final death blow to Delphi.

Insult to Injury

Visitors occasionally comb the site. Who knows what treasures depart with them over the years.

Circa 1580, a massive earthquake, tumbles most of the structures and pillars, causing severe damage to the antiquities.

With no one and no money to rebuild, the site becomes an ancient Home Depot. People cart of building material to build their structures.

In the 1700s, several English-based expeditions catalog, sketch and write about the ruins.

Ancient Delphi Gets Its Greek Back

With the end of the Greek War of Independence, (1830), antiquities, and their care, become a primary concern.

The French Archaeological School of Athens begins the La Grande Fouille, (The Great Excavation,) to recover Ancient Delphi.

The museum has one of the largest collections for an on-site location.

In May 1903, the Delphi Archaeological Museum and site open.

Ancient Delphi Museum

The museum shows the works, spanning over numerous centuries, in a way that explains the history of Ancient Delphi.

In the fourteen rooms, you will primarily see statues, such as the Charioteer of Delphi. There are also architectural elements, including the frieze of the Siphnian Treasury and the museum’s cover girl, the Sphinx of Naxos.

Ancient Delphi.

The Archaeological Site of Delphi is just east of the town of the same name. At an elevation of 1870 feet above sea level, it offers incredible views of the valley below. The site is on a steep hillside, with most of the structures are above the main gate. The good news, when you’ve gone as far as you can, it’s all downhill back to the entrance.

As you can see, it helps to be part mountain goat when visiting.

Roman Agora

The first flat area you come to is the remains of the Roman Agora (market). It is over the original Greek one. The market was the center of any town.

Sacred Way

The sacred way has tables on either side where they would place their votive offerings. People would light candles either in thanks for a past victory or the future blessing of a people.

Ancient Delphi Treasuries

At the top of the Sacred Way are the treasuries.

These are also to give thanks to the oracle, but these are from the Greek city-states. They would commemorate victories in which the oracle’s advice lead to success. The most impressive treasury is the Athenian.

The first stretch of the Sacred Way is for “gifts” from individuals. The next street is for “gifts” from towns. The gift should fill a building.

Stoa of the Athenians

Under the south-east corner of the terrace is this Ionic portico consisting of seven fluted columns. Look closely, and you can see each one is a single piece of stone. This construction is most unusual. Nearby, you can see that most columns were stone discs stacked on top of each other.

At the top of the sacred way and just under the temple was prime real estate.

Temple of Apollo

The Doric ruins you can see date from 330 B.C. They are on top of the ruins of a temple dating from 511 B.C. A 373 B.C. earthquake destroys the 6th century B.C. temple. It sits on an earlier structure.

The Roman emperor Theodosius I silences the oracle by destroying the pagan temple, statues, and works of art. This demolition is circa 390 A.D.

See the bush on the left? Use the person standing behind it to get an idea of scale.

Theatre

The remains today date from the 4th century B.C. but include remodeling. Improvements are from King Eumenes II of Pergamon circa 110 B.C. and Emperor Nero before his visit in 67 A.D.

The theater, which could hold approximately 4,500 spectators, was the site of vocal and musical contests during the Pythian Games.

Except for that dumb temple in the way, the view from the theater was pretty lovely.

Ancient Delphi Stadium

The stadium is the only structure standing above the theater.

The building of the original stadium dates from circa 5th century B.C. By the 2nd century, A.D. Herodes Atticus funds stone seating. With seats, the stadium could hold 6500 spectators.

The stadium was for track and field events. It was not for chariot racing.

Tholos

This circular building is part of the Sanctuary of Athena Pronoia (Athena of the forethought) complex. Dating from circa 380 B.C., it initially consists of 20 Doric columns around a ring of 10 Corinthian columns. They were supporting a dome.

Delphi Town

About one mile west of the archeological site is the present-day village of Delphi. It first provides accommodations for the workman on the excavation.

Similar to the ancient Delphi site, today, the UNESCO site supports the local hotels, cafes, and souvenir shops. After the last tour bus leaves, it becomes a charming little town.

There are no significant sites to see in the town, which is what keeps the over-development away. There are some clean, friendly hotels, motels, and mom and pops. The tavernas, especially at night, cater to a more Greek clientele, which means no items out of the freezer.

Many tavernas in Delphi have pretty spectacular views.

Arachova.

In the mountains to the east of Delphi is this charming hilltop town.

It is a ski destination in the winter. What? SNOW skiing in Greece? Absolutely. At an elevation of 7415 feet, Mount Parnassos to the north of Arachova has several ski areas. Weekenders from Athens use Arachova as their ski village. Many cafes and tavernas are open year-round.

Parnassos Mountain is a winter wonderland.

Weekenders from Athens use Arachova as their summer activity village. Outdoor activities by day and late nights. It’s location, less than two hours from Athens makes it easy access.

As I go for the destination and not drinking until morning, I try to visit in the spring and fall.

If you are there in the summer, try to see it in the early morning before the tour buses arrive. Or before the late-nighters regain consciousness.

The setting is lovely. Each time I visit, there are more trendy cafes and deluxe accommodations, but you can still find old Arachova.

Find a place where you can sample the local P.D.O. Formaela cheese with the black wine.

Local handicrafts include colorful textiles, rugs, carpets, and wooden crafts.

Ancient Delphi Summary.

The reason you travel two hours from Athens is to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Delphi. But hopefully, you now see there’s good reason to make it more than a few hours on a day trip.

Enjoy Ancient Delphi in the morning before the tour buses arrive, and the heat of the day. Enjoy the village of Delphi at night, when the tourists leave, and the locals come out to play.

Make Delphi a stop on your way to or from Kalabaka or the northwest Peloponesse.

Whatever your choice, make sure to experience the area.

Visit Delphi vicariously on their web sites (orange links) or, better yet, start planning your trip today.