March 15, 2020 – Antiparos Greece

THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION

WHERE TO?                       TASTE.                        SEE

Some non-Greeks know about the magical island of Paros. It is the island you go to relax after your Mykonos or Santorini vacation.

But what if I tell you there is a mini-me of Paros?

Antiparos island is the uncola of Paros. It is a small island famous for its relaxing atmosphere and empty beaches.

It is famous for what it does not have. It does not have tourists, tourist sites, too many businesses geared towards tourists, and crowds. And, it’s a day trip from Paros.

For those wanting to escape everything, it is a destination for more than one day.

Where do you find Antiparos?

A short ferry ride from the village of Pounta on Paros brings you across to Chora. This port is the main (and only real) town on Antiporas. There are less frequent ferries from Parikia.

A Little Antiparos History.

With the Fourth Crusade in 1204, the Byzantines lose, and all of Greece, including the islands, is split up by the Franks as war prizes. Venetian Marco Sanudo swoops in, conquers the islands, making himself the duke. The island now goes by the name Antiparos.

This period in time involves frequent attacks by pirates from Crete, Kefalonia, and ports on the African coast. The Venetians build the Kastro to protect the island from pirates and invaders.

Around 1537, the Ottomans find Antiparos, and along with the rest of the Cyclades, it comes under Ottoman rule.

Fortunately/unfortunately, the Ottomans have very little interest in the islands. They leave the Venetians to run them and collect taxes for the Sultan. There are little to no signs that the Ottomans were ever here.

Circa 1821, the people of Antiparos, are among the first in the Greek War of Independence. It joins the Greek state in 1832.

And then the world went away. Noone finds Antiparos after the 1960s. The island likes the 1960s and remains in them for the next 30 years.

Antiparos Today.

With the exploitation of Mykonos, the Greeks looking for off-the-radar islands find Antiparos. Barfoot bars and mom and dad motels are slowly adding low white sofas, gauzy drapes, and candles everywhere. It’s not the Mykonos of today, but it’s not Antiparos of the 1960s either. Antiparos, stop growing.

In recent years, some big names from Tinseltown have been finding Antiparos. Tom Hanks and his Greek-American wife Rita Wilson, have a home here. Nia Vardalos, vacations here with her children. Matthew McConaughey and his family know the island as do many European celebrities. While still a getaway place, it is this need that may make Antiparos no longer the getaway. PLEASE stop growing.

Find Antiparos.

In Town.

There is not much to Chora. It has a typical waterfront with cafes and fish tavernas with a car rental here and a small hotel there.

Across from the tour-boat pier is the main street leading away from the waterfront. Here you will find cafes, boutiques, gift shops, and art galleries, many with an edge. There are a few Greek cafes and a few catering non-Greek cuisines.

The village is predominantly flat, making it walkable. There are scooters, ATV, and bicycle rentals. Of the three, bikes being the only thing outside of walking or renting a car that I would recommend.

Outside of window shopping, there is not much else to see.  Towards the back of the town, you will find Antiparos’s main (only) attraction. The remains of a Venetian home (castle) dating from around the 14th century. It houses a small museum.

Find Antiparos Just Outside Town.

Within walking distance of the ferry dock is Psaralyki Beach. It consists of two beaches, going by the names Psalariki I and Psalariki II. You reach P. I. after a 10-minute walk south along the road from the ferry pier.

The beach is suitable for families due to its protection from large waves. There are sunbeds for renting and trees providing shade. There is a shop for watersport rentals (windsurfing, paddle boats), and there is a cafe and tennis courts adjacent.

Two minutes further along, beyond the large beach club on the point, is Psaraliki II. Here is a smaller beach with a tavern and two music clubs, which are open day and night. The 20-30s seem to prefer this party beach more.

Due to the lower number of families on Beach II, there may be some nude sunbathing. Although not the islands “nude beach,” it does happen, so fair warning. Topless is standard on many Greek beaches.

Sinf Antiparos Further Out of Town.

 Cave (Grotte) of Antiparos.

References from ancient times refer to a cave on the island. Archilochus, a poet from Paros, was the first to leave his initials here around 670 B.C. They are finding remains from different centuries. Many are in the Archeological museum in Paros.

The cave goes forgotten until 1673 A.D. when the French find it. Repelling down into the cave and carving people’s names in the stalagmites and stalactites becomes the thing to do. Later, they use rope ladders. Even the Greek King Otto and Queen Amalia did so in 1840, although I doubt they lowered themselves.

In 2009, they put in a modern staircase of 411-steps down (and what feels like double that coming back up.) The staircase has a secure railing and adequate lighting.

Autographing the natural scenery, or worst carving it, is no longer permissible, and the area is under video surveillance. The walkway takes you down through several “halls” where you can see the cave and the autographs. Of course, Otto’s is in the last hall at a depth of more than 270 feet below the entrance. There are audio guides in both Greek and English.

Antiparos above Ground.

At the mouth of the cave are two churches, one being the 18-century church of Agios Ioannis Spiliotis. It connects internally with the smaller and older chapel of Zoodohos Pigi. Studies of the art and architecture place its construction at possibly the 14th century.

The ante-chamber at the beginning of the cave has benches for those wishing to wait. Near this area is a vast stalagmite. This 45 million-year-old stalagmite, named ‘Peloria Kentriki Kolona’ [huge central column], is the oldest in all of Europe.

The cave closes in the winter.

Saliagos

Off the NE end of Antiparos is the islet of Saliagos. Here they have been excavating a settlement dating to 5000 to 4500 BC. It is currently the oldest settlement in the Cyclades.

Unfortunately, there is no talk of opening it to the public. You can find Antiparos treasures at the Archeological Museum in Paros.

Find Antiparos Beaches.

There are no other villages on the island. Most groupings of buildings happen around some of the beaches, so let’s skip to those. As Greek beaches go, Antiparos has some lovely ones.

Panagia Beach. 

This beach, a five-minute drive south of town, is just far enough from town to get fewer people. Some trees provide shade, and there is a local taverna that offers food and drink. Sand has a mixture of small pebbles. There were no sunbeds or water sports rentals the last time I was there.

Glifa beach.

Another five-minute drive south from Panagia is Gliga. As this island is not a major tourist destination, the majority of the beaches do not accommodate the masses. This news is good. Like Panagia, you will not find sunbeds and water sports rentals. You will find a sandy beach for guests in the nearby small motels and guest houses, plus a few extra. There are trees for shade and a taverna within walking distance for food.

Plage Ag Georgios.

Located at the SW end of the island, I suggest this as a beach for sunsets. On a clear night, you can watch the sunset over the islands of Nisida or Despotiko. From here, it is a short stroll to a nearby fish taverna.

Antiparos West Coast

Much of the west coast is rugged with rock and very few accessible coves along the way. Most of these are either rocky, catch the wind from the wrong direction, making them choppy, or both.

Sifneikos Beach.

This beach is a fifteen-minute walk from the ferry pier right through town. Although a pretty setting, it also seems to catch the wind/current wrong. The beach has rocks, and there are rocks underwater as well—best for sunsets for people staying in town.

Camping Beach

a fifteen-minute walk north from town is a camping area and Camping Beach. The beach has quite a bit of submerged rocks, and aqua shoes are a great idea. There are trees for shade and a small store, cafe, and bar at the camping area.

To the right, when facing the water, is the official clothing-optional beach on the island. Over the years, the lines have blurred, and you will find various levels of dress and undress at both ends. This end also has rocks, although it seems like fewer and a sandbar that reaches across to an islet. There are no services at this end and limited shade.

Sunsets from the beach closest to the camping area can be lovely.

Find Antiparos Summary.

Bring several good books to read as a majority of the ones on the island are in Greek. Prepare to do little. This rock is the un-touristy, un-sites to see, the un-wind island of the Cyclades.

I am sure there is some Wifi.  But I did not have my phone or laptop on once, so I am not 100% sure.

Are you ready to unplug? Do you want to find Antiparos?

Wish to dive deeper? Antiparos.

PLEASE scroll down to the “Please Leave a Reply” section at the bottom and tell me your thoughts on: 

“What is your idea of a remote island?” 

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“See the World” Continued on Page T3          “Taste the World” Continued on T11