THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Last week, we did some exploring in the east end of the Loire Valley.
Well, the area UNESCO deems the Loire Valley.
UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Loire Valley. limits it from Sully-sur-Loire to Chalonnes-sur-Loire. This is approximately 200 miles. The actual Loire Valley stretches for more than 600 miles across France.
This week let’s take a stroll through the western end of the Loire.
Angers is approximately 150 miles downriver from Orleans. It is a three-hour drive southwest of Paris or 100+ minutes on a French high-speed train.
Angers dates back to long before the Romans. However, the first large settlement in the area seems to be during the Roman occupation.
During the medieval period, it serves as the base of the Plantagenet dynasty. Circa 1152, this will lead to the Angevin Empire, starting with Henry II and Eleanor.
Cadet branches will include the houses of Lancaster and York.
In 1533, another strong woman, Catherine de’ Medici, would marry into the House of Valois.
With so many interesting figures from history, Angers is fun to visit just for that.
But there is so much more.
Walking Angers.
Just up from the river is the fortress (chateau) which is a great place to start our exploration. Walking in Angers is over many cobblestone streets and some hills. Sensible walking shoes will be your best friend.
Come, we are walking.
Château d’Angers.
Starting as a 9th-century fortress for Anjou’s Counts, what you see today is from the 13th century.
You can wander much of the fortress grounds, including the Logis Royal (royal apartments), Chapelle Saint Jean Baptiste, and the ramparts. Most signage is in French and English. The chateau is also home to the Apocalypse Tapestry.
The Apocalypse Tapestry.
It is the oldest French medieval tapestry dating from 1382. It tells the story of Saint John the Divine’s Apocalypse in the Book of Revelation.
Originally it spread over six different tapestries that reveal 90 scenes from the story. It is almost 20 feet tall and over 450 feet long. Many sections will disappear during the French Revolution. What is on display is original and restored sections.
As you leave the fortress and cross the draw bridge, turn right. Follow the promenade around to Place du Président Kennedy. On your left, you will see the Office de Tourisme. Turn left just beyond the tourism office on Rue Toussaint. On your left, you can see some of the old city walls. A two-minute walk on the right is our next destination.
Galerie David d’Angers.
Through what looks like a doorway to an abbey is a remarkable statuary gallery. Instead of demolishing the ruins of the 13th-century Abbaye Toussaint d’Angers, after WWII, they salvage what they can. Today, this space is home to an incredible collection of hometown artist Pierre-Jean David’s sculptures.
Exiting back onto Rue Toussaint, turn right and take the first right on Rue du Musee. It truly is a street of museums.
Place Saint-Éloi.
This square, on Rue du Musee, always seems to have locals passing through. Dating from at least medieval times, it has several sites to see nearby.
Musée des Beaux-Arts.
On your right is this art museum in the Logis Barrault, the city’s oldest (1493) private mansion. Marie de’ Medici will be one of its owners. The museum has two permanent collections, fine art between the 14th – 21st Century and Anger’s history. Objects and exhibits cover the local area from the Neolithic period to the present day.
Return to the Place Saint-Éloi and turn right. You cannot miss our next stop.
Saint Aubin Tower.
At the south end of the square is this imposing bell tower from the 12th century. It was part of the 6th-century Benedictine abbey of Saint-
Across Rue des Lices from the tower is Place Michel Debre, home to the Anger’s prefecture and other municipal buildings. Turn right (north) on Rue des Lices, and follow it a block to Rue Saint-Aubin. Turn left and walk to the next corner, Place Sainte-Croix. You are behind the cathedral, but we will see that later. Look to your right.
Maison d’Adam.
If not the oldest, one of the oldest half-timber structures in the city. The house dates from circa 1500 and gets its name from the carvings of Adam and Eve on the facade. Today it houses a shop of local artists.
Follow Place Sainte-Croix north (to the right of Adam’s House) one block to Rue Louis de Romain. Stop and look up at the wonderful French architecture all around you. Then cross the street to what looks like a pedestrian street and underground parking entrance. A half-block beyond is our next destination.
Place du Ralliement.
Formerly the Place de la Guillotine, it has gone through name changes and restorations to become what it is today.
During the French Revolution, public executions would take place here using the permanent guillotine in the center. Victims would include some of the 99 Martyrs of Angers. This group of priests, nuns, and laypeople, mostly women, would die during the Reign of Terror.
Today, the square is one of the city’s gathering places. Check out the Grande Theatre on the southwest side of the square. It dates from 1865, after the former theater disappears in a fire.
The Galeries Lafayette, adjacent to the theatre, is worth visiting to see their glass dome.
Return to Rue Louis de Romain, but this time, take the street at your two o’clock position, Rue de l’Aiguillerie. At the end of the block is our next treasure.
Le Palais Episcopal d’Angers.
The former Episcopal (bishops) palace is right in front of you. The current building dates from the 12th century, although there have been many restorations. Tours take place on Saturday afternoons, but they are only in French.
Continue around the palace to the right (counter-clockwise). As you turn the corner, you will see the twin spires of our destination.
Cathédrale Saint-Maurice d’Angers.
This Roman Catholic church dates from 1240, although there have been several reconstructions and additions. The pipe organ dates from 1617. What I like about the interior is it’s not over the top. There is not gold and marble everywhere, so you can concentrate on how the walls and ceiling soars.
Montée St-Maurice staircase.
This grand staircase leads from the cathedral down to the Pont de Verdun. At the bottom is a lovely fountain and promenade area. In the summer, artists are often painting images on the steps.
Pont de Verdun.
In 1028, the Anjou count replaces a wooden structure with this stone bridge. At the time, it is the only bridge in this area.
Not Within Walking Distance in Angers.
Fifteen minutes’ drive northeast of the city center is a one-of-a-kind experience.
In 1849, local confectioner Adolphe Cointreau decides to expand into liqueurs. Starting with a cherry liqueur, he experiments with the recipe using the skins of sweet and bitter oranges for flavor. The result is a less sweet, more intense flavor. Cointreau is a clear liqueur they drink as an aperitif or digestive.
According to Cointreau, the first Cosmopolitan (vodka, Cointreau, and cranberry) is in New York City circa 1988. Even if you think you do not like the taste of liqueur, it is an interesting visit.
Walking Outside of Angers.
Several sites provide strolling just outside of Angers.
Château du Plessis-Macé.
This 15th-century castle is 20 minutes northwest of town on the route from Brittany. Its purpose was to warn Angers of approaching enemies and to slow them down hopefully. You can tour on your own or with a reserved tour.
On the site of an 11th-century castle for the Counts of Anjou, they build a 15th-century chateau. During the French Wars of Religion, the château is severely damaged. Circa 1611, the Duke of Brissac rebuilds the chateau in Baroque architecture.
Today, the house is still the private residence of the Duke of Brissac. You can visit this chateau, the tallest in France. It is 30 minutes south of Angers.
Walking Angers Summary.
As you can see, Angers by itself can easily fill a day and then you need one for the countryside. And that’s before you add Saumur, Chinon, or wine tasting.
Set aside some time for this area. Map out the must-sees and give yourself time to really experience them.
Being further from Paris than Orleans, Angers often gets the ugly step-sister role when it comes to day trips.
Well, it isn’t a day trip. It deserves much more time.
We did not talk about the local cuisine. Angers is in the middle of what they call the “Garden of France.” A visit to the local market can be a culinary experience.
The vineyards in Anjou, Saumur, and Touraine produce numerous A.O.C. wines. You would need several days to scratch the surface.
So plan a few days for the Anger’s area. See, taste, smell, listen to and get a feeling for this charming city.
Visit the countryside and make sure your plans include walking the streets of Angers.
Read more about Angers.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.