THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
The Loire Valley is a magical area of France.
Officially, it stretches from the west of Lyon in the east to Nantes in the west.
More than 600 miles.
However, many people consider it the area from Orleans to Nantes.
UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Loire Valley. limits it from Sully-sur-Loire to Chalonnes-sur-Loire. This is approximately 200 miles.
The tragedy (la tragédie) is many people make a day trip from Paris and think they see the Loire Valley.
Au contraire!!!
If you are up for a 9+ hours race through three of the valley’s chateaus, you will get a glimpse.
As I hope to show, just Orleans is a full-day destination.
The city is approximately two hours drive south of Paris.
With a history that proceeds the Romans and cuisine beyond expectation, you should not only see Orleans but taste it.
And learn about the “Maid of Orleans.” The 17-year old who defeats the British circa 1429 during the Seige of Orleans. Her name is Jeanne (Joan) d’Arc.
And the castles and chateaus…
Come, let’s go walking through Orleans,
Walking Orleans.
If you look at a map, it is easy to see the old Orleans imprint. An eight-lane boulevard now circles the old town where walls once stood.
The Pont (bridge) Joffre marks the western boundary, and the Pont René Thinat is at the east end.
I suggest starting in the middle with the best landmark in the city.
Cathédrale Sainte-Croix d’Orléans.
This Gothic Roman Catholic church is the seat of the Bishop of Orléans. The original structure dates from circa 1329 and includes restoration and additions. This is the church where Joan of Arc would attend evening Mass during the 1429 siege on the city. There is a great view from the top of the tower’s 252 steps.
Across the street and two buildings north is our next stop.
Hotel Groslot.
Dating from 1558, this private residence for Jacques Groslot, the King’s bailiff, brings new meaning to be extravagant. The residence would become a community-building, hosting important nobles and even kings. Take a stroll through the gardens behind.
From here, walk north to Rue d’Escures. Turn left, and in less than five minutes, you will be in the middle of our next stop.
Place du Martroi.
Today, this is the living room of Orleans. People meet, festivals take place, and a large statue of Joan of Arc guards the square. It has been a public area since the 1500s, starting as a grain market. With the building of the Chancellerie (ministry of justice) circa 1754, it also becomes the sight of public executions.
Paroisse Saint Paterne.
This 19th-century structure is a rebuild of the original 13th-century church. Highlights include mosaics, stained glass, marble statues, paintings, and more. It is nice, but to me, it is not a must-see. It is a ten-minute walk north from Place du Martroi.
Instead, I suggest you follow the tram rails out the southwest corner of the square. You will come to Place du Général de Gaulle. The triangular square is where the tram crosses Rue Jeanne d’Arc. There is a great Kodak moment of the cathedral from here.
On the south side of the square is a half-timber house.
Maison de Jeanne d’Arc
Some information says this is the residence of Joan during the siege. In reality, the building is on a site where she stayed during the siege and dates from post-WWII. Inside there is only a ten-minute video on Joan. Not one of my favorite sites in Orleans.
Just behind the Maison to the south is a more impressive sight.
Notre Dame des Miracles.
Home to the Black Madonna of Orleans, which began as a 5th-century wooden figure. Joan of Arc would pray to this figure each morning during her week in Orleans. During WWII, Allied bombers level the entire neighborhood and chapel around her. The Madonna did not receive a scratch.
The Tour (tower) Saint-Paul Orléans is adjacent to the church. You can pay to climb its steps for a look over the city.
A five-minute walk south and west brings us to our next church.
Église Notre-Dame-de-Recouvrance.
This Romanesque church from the sixteenth century is on top of ruins dating from the Roman Empire. Wives would pray for their sailor husbands’ return (recouvrance) as the Loire was a dangerous river. The church still has some of its 16th century stained glass.
From the church, I would take a little longer route. Head south to the river and turn left (east.)
Pont George V.
The arched bridge crossing the Loire dates from 1760. It sits on the sight of the previous 12th-century Bridge of the Tourelle. That bridge plays an important role in the Seige of Orleans. Unfortunately, none of the Tourelle, Bastion, or Fort Augustin (all part of the bridge’s defense), remain. You can see a great panorama of Orleans from the bridge.
On the north side of the bridge is a street leading away on a diagonal, Rue Jean Hupeau. Let’s take it northeast. It runs right into the Halles Chatelet. It is not the original market for the cit. In fact, it is 90% modern mall. However, there are several butchers, cheese, and produce shops inside for a local progressive lunch.
From the mall, head one block north to Rue de Bourgogne and turn right.
Now you are really in the old town. Streets are pedestrian (mostly), and it is a mix of architectural styles. Remember to look up as there are several buildings with half-timber upper floors.
Two blocks down on your left, you will come to the only round building on the street.
Protestant Temple of Orléans.
This is the Protestant Church. Dating from 1839, the building is now a historical monument. The church is still active.
Just east of the Protestant Church is Rue Parisie. Turn left. In one block, you are back at the cathedral. After walking Orleans, depending on your energy level, there are several museums in the area.
Musée des Beaux-Arts d’Orléans
With a collection reaching back to the 1500s, this museum can fill up the rest of your day. It is one of the oldest collections in France and numbers more than 2,000 paintings and 700 sculptures.
Centre Eummunalaire Synagogue.
There has been a Jewish presence in Orleans since circa 550 A.D. Since WWII, the community has slowly been rebuilding and now numbers around 150 families. The building is an old chancellery of the cathedral. Services take place on Friday evenings. Visits require previous reservations.
The CERCIL, Vel’hiv Children’s Memorial Museum.
This memorial museum sheds light on the internment camps in the area during the Second World War. Beaune-la-Rolande, Pithiviers, and Jargeau camps were all less than an hour’s drive from Orleans. Unfortunately, this museum, a block east of the cathedral, has few descriptions in English. Fortunately, the camps are no longer.
Église Saint-Aignan.
A ten-minute walk southeast of the cathedral is this church in honor of Anianus, the bishop of Orléans. He was able to persuade Attila the Hun from sacking the city circa 451. The current Romanesque structure dates from the 16th-century. Tours of the crypts are available.
The Loire Valley is the ‘Garden of France”. A taste of its fresh cheeses, produce, and wine, and you will understand why.
So there is more to the Loire area than chateauxs.
Walking Orlean’s Chateaux.
Actually, there is no grand Loire ‘chateau’ in Orleans. The largest concentration of chateauxs you can visit are between Blois and Tours to the west. Some of the Blois chateauxs include:
Château de Chambord.
Perhaps the most famous of the Loire Chateaus, Chambord is actually three miles south of the river. There is no one designer of the chateau as changes began almost immediately. Construction starts circa 1519 on this grand hunting lodge for King Francis I. When he dies 28 years later, the chateau is still not complete, and there are no furnishings.
King Louis XIV takes control circa 1655 and furnishes the whole chateau. He adds a stable that can hold 1200 horses for weekend hunting parties. By 1685, hunting or the chateau bore him, and he abandons the chateau.
For the next 100 years, it will host friends or distant relatives of the king needing shelter. By the Revolution of 1792, the government sells anything they can from the chateau, including the paneling.
The French state takes possession in 1930 but does little to restore the property. During WWII, they use the chateau to store the Louvre Museum’s collection. Mona Lisa did not look happy.
Today, after major renovations, it is a major tourist attraction. You can visit the chateau, gardens, stables, and parks. That is almost more walking than in Orleans.
Château de Menars.
Circa 1646, Guillaume Charron, an adviser to the King, builds a modest chateau on a property overlooking the Loire river. Around 1669, his son, Jean-Jacques Charron, a principal magistrate in the Parlement de Paris, enlarges the property.
Mme de Pompadour, Louis XV’s mistress between 1745 and 1751 and influential confidant, buys the chateau circa 1760. She adds two additional wings and pavilions. Before work completes, she dies, and the château passes to her brother. He will double the size and add the Italianate influence.
Since 2017, the 102,257 square foot château has been on the market. As of 2021, it is still available.
Château de Beauregard.
Twenty minutes south of town is this castle dating from 1545. While still a private residence, you can visit the property.
It is most famous for its Gallery of Portraits that includes over 300 portraits of people famous (at that time). It is the largest gallery in Europe to survive to the present day.
Château de Cheverny.
They build a prominent chateau circa 1510. Circa 1550, the French King Henri II grabs it with trumped-up charges of treachery to the crown. He gives it to his mistress Diane de Poitiers. Not good enough for her, she sells it to the former owner’s son and moves into Château de Chenonceau. The family still owns the property.
Walking Orleans Summary.
As you can see, Orleans by itself can easily fill a day or two. And that’s before you add Blois, Sully-Sur-Loire (east), or wine tasting.
Set aside some time for this area. Map out the must-sees and give yourself time to really experience them.
Orleans can be a great base for exploring the Loire. And make sure your plans include walking the charming streets of Orleans.
Read more about Orleans.
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“What would you do in Orleans?
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.