THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
I hate Athens – said by people who have only seen the cruise pier or airport.
I hate Orlando – said by people who never leave the International Drive area.
And then some only visit The Strip and say they hate Las Vegas. Or all of Nevada.
I could blog on my feelings on the “h” word – but I’ve done that already, or didn’t you know?
Viva Las Vegas has many reputations. Some are nice, and some are naughty.
Many people visit “The Strip” and think they know Las Vegas. Did you know that The Strip is not even in the city of Las Vegas? Maybe we need to dig a little deeper.
Before the Viva of Las Vegas
Before 1900, Las Vegas (the meadows) is a campsite along a minor trail running from New Mexico to California. It has artesian wells providing fresh water. People and horses need drinkable water.
The Union Pacific and the California trail pass through northern Nevada. The Sante Fe connects east and west through northern Arizona. In between, a lot of nothing.
Salt Lake City wants a link to Los Angeles. One of the problems they face is that the steam engines need to replenish water along the way. Where, about halfway between the two cities, can they get water?
Circa 1905, the first train pulls into newly-incorporated Las Vegas.
That’s Depressing
Circa 1930, the state’s income from minerals (silver and gold) drops significantly. In a state with only one primary industry (silver and gold), that’s not good. The rest of the nation is also reeling. The Great Depression is making its way west.
The economy of Las Vegas does not suffer as hard or as long as the rest of the state. A major construction project begins 40 miles southeast of Las Vegas. Its name is Boulder Dam. For the next five years, it will employ up to 20,000 men.
A Dark Element
The U.S. government puts organized crime out of the bootleg business in 1933 by making booze legal.
The mob is looking for a new cash source. The families hear there is a lot of cash floating around Viva Las Vegas. In the 1940s, they begin “investing” in gaming halls.
Freemont never gets dark with all the lights.
Bugsey Siegel, a “businessman from Los Angeles,” is having trouble buying casinos within the city limits. So, he buys land along The Arrowhead Highway. In the last week of 1946, he opens the Flamingo Resort. It is the first luxury resort on the Strip.
Vegas Gets its Viva On.
Organized crime is having a tough time getting money to build casinos. Allen Dorfman, a close “associate” of Jimmy Hoffa’s takes control of the Teamster’s Central States Pension Fund. They immediately start lending money to their “business associates.”
All of a sudden, there is the Thunderbird in 1948, Desert Inn in 1950, The Sahara, and Sands in 1952. In 1955 The Riviera and The Dunes open. A year later, The Hacienda, and in 1957 the Tropicana are in business. 1958 saw the opening of the Stardust.
The Landmark, Caesars Palace, and the Aladdin are newcomers debuting in the 1960s.
Howard Hughs
In 1966, Howard Hughes became the owner of the Desert Inn Resort. Why would a hotel, with obvious mafia ties, sell so quickly? Beginning earlier in the 1960s, the F.B.I. is putting pressure on the Nevada Gaming Control Board. Get the mobsters out of the gambling business. Talk about being in the right place at the right time.
Over the next three years, he will have the opportunity to buy up several other properties for the same reason. They include the Castaways, New Frontier, Landmark, and the Sands.
It is a win-win for the area. Much of the mafia is out, and Hughs wants to change the wild west image of the town. He sees it as a glamorous location.
The 70s and 80s
Viva Las Vegas continues to lose some of its naughty reputations. Ties with “reputable” industries lure more guests to Las Vegas.
The town continues to grow. The casinos draw more and more guests requiring more and more staff. More residents lead to the need for more services and places to live.
The Mega 1990s
The Strip undergoes a significant shift in the 1990s. As the mafia and older generation start disappearing, the former Viva of Las Vegas goes into decline.
Gambling boats and “supposed” Indian casinos start popping up everywhere in the U.S.A. Friday nights at the casino replace the summer vacation to Las Vegas.
Enter the mega-resort, a small amusement park for the whole family. Castaways Resort, complete with a Tiki bar, disappears. In its place, complete with erupting volcano, dolphins, and Sigfried and Roy appears the 30-story Mirage.
At the south end, the original M.G.M. Grand, Excaliber, and Luxor open soon after.
At the north end, what was going to be an additional tower at the Mirage, becomes a resort. Complete with a pirate battle in front, Treasure Island sails in circa 1993. Vegas has its viva going again.
The Disappearance of the Old Viva Las Vegas.
Not wanting to build outside of walking distance from the center of the Strip, developers begin looking inwards.
Circa 1993, the first Las Vegas landmark disappears. They implode the Dunes Resort and Golf Course, at the south end of the Strip. The Bellagio sits where the Dunes tower stood. The Park M.G.M., New York-New York, CityCenter, Cosmopolitan, and T-Mobile Arena replace the golf course area.
1996 is a tough year for Las Vegas romantics. First, The Sands Resort bites the dirt to make way for The Venetian. A month later, The Hacienda, at the south end, goes up (down?) in flames on New Year’s Eve. The Mandalay Bay, Four Seasons, and The Delano will rise from its ashes.
Las Vegas Today.
Just over three million people are living in Nevada. Around two million live in Clark County, around Las Vegas.
But just as Disney World is not in Orlando, officially, the Strip is not in Las Vegas.
So do not judge one by the other.
Should-see in Viva Las Vegas.
The Strip
It is, for the most part, an adults theme park. The family-friendly theme from the 1990s is no longer. The lions from the M.G.M. Grand are missing. The pirate ship show at Treasure Bay, buh bye. Even the Mirage volcano erupts half as often as it used to.
There are things still for kids to do, including amusement parks at New York and Circus-Circus. The Shark Reef at Mandalay, or aquarium at Mirage, roller coasters, but they all come with a pretty hefty price. Like the $1,99 shrimp cocktail, the cheap or free stuff is no longer. About the only free thing left on the Strip is the Bellagio fountains.
There are incredible restaurants, concerts, and shopping. I can find these in Los Angeles, New York, or any other major city. If money is no object, you can have a fantastic time on the Strip.
I find one nice meal, one show, and 30-minutes in one casino is about my limit of the viva. So what do you do with the other three days of your visit?
Airport / South of the Strip
Since many people arrive by plane, let’s start there.
There are a few things you can do before you reach the Strip.
Las Vegas Sign
The sign has been welcoming people to Las Vegas since 1959, even if it isn’t officially in Las Vegas. Since 2008, there is a parking area, (which always seems filled) as you drive south from the Strip.
If you like the creations of Carol Shelby, this stop is for you. You can self guide yourself through the car collection. The “gift shop” is everything Shelby, including parts.
This museum offers many cars that have been in movies, on television, or on the Las Vegas stage. They have two of Liberace’s vehicles that he would use in his shows. It is one of the few places remaining in Vegas to see anything relating to one of its early superstars.
North of the Strip
Thriller Villa
Only in Las Vegas. The private residence that Michael Jackson leased from 2006 – ? is now home to a large part of the Liberace Foundation for the Performing and Creative Arts collection. From time to time, they offer programs at the villa. Check the Liberace Foundation for the Performing and Creative Arts collection for events.
There is nothing viva about this park 15 mins drive north of the Strip. The preserve has 3.5 miles of trails passing through 110 acres of native habitats and archaeological sites. They also have bike rentals. Learn about desert life or water conservation in Nevada. On top of that, it has three museums, including the Nevada State Museum Las Vegas and Origen Museum.
East of the Strip
National Atomic Testing Museum
Somewhat hidden in the lobby of a commercial building across from the UNLV campus, it’s worth finding. This private museum explains everything about the local and national atomic bomb program. Exhibits include photos of the bombs they were exploding 65 miles away and a simulator.
The Liberace Mansion
The house is a private residence, and trespassing is not welcome. From the street, you can see the second floor, “Morrocan Room,” where he would entertain the royalty of entertainment. Private tours are available.
Downtown – the Non-Viva.
I remember driving down Freemont Street looking at the lights on the front of all the casinos.
Fortunately, or unfortunately, you can no longer do that. It is now a Pedestrian Street. Many of the old casino marques and Vegas Vic are not lit in the daytime. That leaves you gambling, souvenir shopping, or ziplining, on Freemont in the day time.
The Freemont Experience
This light show goes off every hour across the jumbo screens hanging over Freemont. I recommend visiting at dusk right before the nighttime mobs descend.
It occupies an old post office and courthouse building. Sounds a little boring, right? It is an intelligent layout with impressive displays talking about the mob everywhere, bot just in Las Vegas. In the basement is an artesian distillery and speakeasy.
Freemont East
This creative neighborhood begins in the 500-block of Freemont. When you see the giant martini glass in the middle of the road, you have arrived. Some places try too hard, but many are fun quirky shops and bars.
Dating from 1941, it is one of the oldest casinos in Las Vegas. The establishment is on the National Register of Historic Places. Past owners include Bugsy Siegel, Meyer Lansky, and others. It’s not fancy or new or significant. That’s why I like it. It has viva without even trying.
This open-air mall is homes to cafes, boutiques, and a few artist studios. Where does it get its name? From the hundreds of containers in its construction. Fun to walk through or have a coffee or cocktail.
North of Downtown
Las Vegas Natural History Museum
The museum has a multi-million dollar, world-class collection of wildlife and prehistoric exhibits. The museum is an associate of the Smithsonian. It is even walking distance to another site.
Old Las Vegas Mormon Fort State Historic Park
The first structure built by non-first nation people in the Las Vegas Valley. This state park includes the historical remains of an adobe fort the Morman missionaries constructed circa 1855. There are many artifacts and a visitor center.
The Neon Museum
Only in Las Vegas is there a museum with access to so many used neon signs. It is almost like walking through a who’s who of old Viva Las Vegas. Although most of these casinos are gone, there is a little keepsake to remember.
The museum is non-profit and survives on donations. A majority of the signs do not work (yet). There are enough lights to make an evening visit worthwhile. You must join a guided tour. Check out “Brilliance.” It is worth that extra ticket.
Outside of Las Vegas
Henderson
Once upon a time, it is a town outside of Las Vegas. Today, it is a little gray where one begins and the other ends.
Ethel M Botanical Cactus Garden
Ethel M Botanical Cactus Garden is a 3-acre agricultural area that is the largest in Nevada. Here, you can see more than 300 species of plants and trees. A majority of the plants are native American Southwest cacti and succulents. Trade your viva in for some vegetation.
Just who is this Ethel M? Well, she is the mother of Forrest. No, not the “box of chocolates” Forrest. The “I own the chocolate company” Forrest. The M stands for Mars.
Forrest, the creator of Milky Way, Mars Bars, and M&Ms, retires to Nevada circa 1973. After about seven years, he needs a hobby. Using several of his best employees, and his mom’s recipes, he creates Ethel M to produce premium chocolate.
There are numerous outlets, but this is the factory where there is a free tour. They also have chocolate tastings and chocolate and wine sessions you can purchase.
Further From the Viva
Boulder City
Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum
This museum is in the Boulder City Hotel, which has some history of its own. Through interactive exhibits and historical footage, learn the challenges the men and women building Boulder Dam had.
Lake Mead National Recreational Area
Covering 1.5 million acres of space, 13% of it is water, Lake Mead. The rest of the land is the Mohave desert. It offers something for everyone who likes the outdoors.
Hoover Dam
Approximately one hour from Las Vegas and 15 minutes from Boulder City, it is an engineering wonder. Curving across the Colorado River from Nevada to Arizona, it creates Lake Mead, amongst other things. You can visit the visitor center, tour the power plant, or tour inside the dam itself.
Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area
Approximately 20 miles west of downtown Las Vegas is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, part of the Mojave Desert. Along the scenic drive, you can stop and see Native American petroglyphs. There is hiking. The area has over 25 different trails from easy to severe.
Besides the incredible landscape, I like this park because most people pass it. Maybe that’s different in summer. I have never been here in the summer. The desert is the last place I will be in the middle of the summer.
Viva Las Vegas Summary
Wow! That’s a lot more than just gambling.
Don’t get me wrong. The new hotels are impressive.
The numerous Cirque and Cirque-like shows are overwhelming.
The number of culinary options is numbing.
The L.E.D. lights are so bright.
Once you experience the sensory overload and wallet-draining experience of the Strip, step back and see the real Las Vegas.
Wish to dive deeper? Las Vegas Immersion.
PLEASE scroll down to the “Leave a Reply” section at the bottom and tell me your thoughts on:
“What surprises you about Las Vegas?”
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3 “Taste the World” Continued on T11
Thom, I also recall that first drive down Fremont, timed by the Penns to occur at night! Quite a thrill for this Ohio kid. 43 years later, and I have never returned to Vegas. You’ve given me plenty of reasons to correct that omission…
I am surprised that there is so much to do in a relatively small radius of the Vegas strip! Definitely worth a look, and looks like it’s worth a trip!
My first impression of Las Vegas was rather critical. So many people, those funny cigarettes assaulting my senses, the clanging of slot machine bells. So, take a break with a lovely lunch, and open your mind. Wow, this city has something for everyone. I especially enjoyed the historical sites, with the Neon Museum being a fascinating highlight. The surrounding parks and geography were overwhelmingly beautiful. Now, I can’t wait to return.
I really enjoyed the history summary. Didn’t know the timeline! Also had forgotten about the Container Park which I thought interesting when I first heard about it. Definitely adding that to our ‘to-do’ list. Thank you!
A must see for all our visitors coming into town is the Mob Museum which has so much about the history of the town and its undesirables.