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Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT
METEORA
KALABAKA.
KASTRAKI.
OUTSIDE OF TOWN.
Kalampaka (Kalambaka) is, at last count, a town of around 21,000 citizens in the Thessaly region of Greece’s mainland.
For many travelers, it is just a place you pass through on your way to something else. In this case, the geological phenomenon of Meteora.
The monasteries came before the present-day town.
But there was a settlement here long before the monasteries of Meteora.
Ancient History.
Aeginium (or Aiginion) is a town of mighty strength and is nearly impregnable, according to Roman historians from the time. It appears several times in the telling of the Roman and Macedon conflicts as Rome was pushing itself eastward.
The Battle of Pydna, circa 167 B.C., sees the Romans defeating King Perseus of Macedon. The area of northern Greece falls under Roman rule. The Romans sack and plunder many of the villages, including Aeginium.
The town appears in historic records again during the Great Roman Civil War (49–45 B.C.) Circa 48 B.C., Gnaeus Domitius Calvinus joins Caesar against Pompey during a meeting at Aeginium.
With the rise of the Roman Empire, circa 26 B.C. Aeginium becomes a Roman backwater for the next ?? years.
Less Ancient.
The area will not appear in writings again until circa 900 A.D. At this time; they refer to it as Stagoi. It is an episcopal see.
Circa 1163, there is a reference to the castle of Stagoi. By 1204, with the fall of the Byzantine Empire, the Despotate of Epirus claims much of northwest Greece.
Like much of the rest of the Greek mainland, it will pass from one group to another. Then circa 1460 mainland Greece falls to the Ottomans. They will remain in power until the Greek War of Independence beginning in 1821.
They change the name to Kalabaka, meaning “powerful fortress”.
Today it goes by Kalabaka, Kalambaka, Kalapaka, or (rarely) Kalabaki.
What about Those Monasteries?
Meteora and Kalabaka are two different areas.
Kalabaka is at the base of the sandstone and conglomerate peaks. Meteora is in and on top of the rocks.
Artifacts show inhabitants in the caves in this area dating from between 50,000 and 5,000 years ago. A stone wall at the Theopetra cave dates from 23,000 years ago.
This makes it the oldest known example of a built structure. The walls use was probably as a barrier against the ice age at the time.
After the ice age, the first documented inhabitants of Meteora is a small group of hermit monks. Dating to the ninth century A.D., they were living in the natural hollows and fissures in the rock. The remote location, above present-day Kastraki, was enough to keep away visitors.
They did not live together. The monks would only meet on Sundays or special days to worship at the base of the rock. The area’s name is Doupiani. Today, there is a small chapel from the 12th-century standing, perhaps on the spot of the original one.
Going Up.
By the tenth century, the hermits, fleeing invaders, would move higher on the cliff face.
Down below, the Byzantine fortress of Stagoi becomes an episcopal see. This title brings privileges and donations from the Byzantine emperor in Constantinople. More monks begin coming to the area.
By the early 12th-century, a monastic community of Eastern Orthodox Christians is forming. It centers around the Holy Temple of Dormition of the Virgin Mary in the upper part of Kalabaka.
Pesky Ottomans.
Circa 1344, a priest arrives from Mount Athos with a group of followers. Mount Athos is close to the Turkish border, and attacks from the Ottomans are increasing. Between 1356 and 1372, he builds the great Meteoron monastery on top of the rock.
The location serves two purposes, safety from attacks and autonomy from the town below.
By the time of the Turkish occupation (1460), more than 20 monasteries are in the sky. Meteora means the “middle of the sky” or “suspended in the air”. You will see this is an appropriate name.
Initially, access to the monasteries was tricky for a reason. Either long ladders or nets on a rope are the only way for people and supplies to reach the top. When do they replace the lines? After the Lord lets them break. There is no preventative maintenance here. It brings a new meaning to the term leap of faith.
But life is not perfect in this lofty local. Some of the monasteries do suffer attacks from the Ottomans. Some monks abandon them moving north and west out of the Ottoman reach.
In 1520, Suliman the Magnificent comes to power. He is not as harsh towards the Christians as previous Ottoman leaders. This new approach slows the exodus of Christians, for a period.
But it will continue until the 1821 Greek War of Independence.
Greek Christians no longer need to flee, but they also no longer need to hide.
The 1900s
By 1920, they begin carving steps into the rock and constructing bridges to the monasteries. This act has a double edge. It makes the monasteries easier to access. This same access will allow German and Italian troops to plunder them during WWII. The Germans also use some of the monasteries for bombing practice.
Today, only six have occupants. Of the four housing monks, there are less than 25 monks between them. The other two, for nuns, also have few residents.
By 1988 UNESCO adds Meteora as a World Heritage Site.
Kalabaka Today.
Today, the town’s primary industry is tourism. That means the city center is very commercial and usually crowded. There are no stunning sea captain houses or mansions to tour. But it does make an excellent base for touring Meteora and other sites a short drive away.
What is in Kalabaka for me?
See & Hear.
There is the main reason you are here. Meteora. My favorite times are sunrise and sunset. Besides the smaller crowds, the ever-changing panorama is breath-taking. Listen to the wind across the peaks.
Taste & Smell.
Take a detour to nearby Kastraki, where numerous tavernas prepare fresh local items from farm to table. Smell the meat grilling and the faint hint of oregano.
Feel.
Sitting on a rock, watching the shadows stretch across the cliff face as they have done for centuries.
There may be better ways to end your day, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Kalabaka
The Monasteries.
The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Meteora consists of the remaining six monasteries. Some of these have limited days or requirements. I like to start on the east end and work my way west.
Agios Stefanos Monastery
Today, this is the most accessible monastery. You cross a bridge. However, there are steps to reach other parts of the structure. This monastery is for very hospitable nuns. There are two chapels, one from the 16th, and one the 18th-century. The views are excellent, and this is the only monastery visible from Kalabaka.
Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) Monastery
requires a workout. Its main claim to fame is the views once you reach it. It appears in a James Bond film from the 1970s. There are approximately 140 steps up to reach the monastery. Then there are more steps to tour the structure.
Holy Monastery of Varlaam
Varlaam is the second-largest monastery. Within view of the Great Meteoro, it is the newest of the monasteries dating from 1540. The current building sits over a chapel built by Varlaam in the 1300s. The old refectory is now a museum. Visit the kitchen, hospital, bibliographic, and gold-embroidery workshops. Before leaving, visit the tower. Here you can see the original point of arrival and the net. Approximately 160 steps to reach the front door.
Holy Monastery of Great Meteoron
Dating from the 1300s, it is the oldest and the largest. Guests can view the Sacristy, New-martyrs halls, the old refectory, kitchen, and more. There are approximately 146 steps to reach the entrance. There are more steps inside.
is today a convent, but it began as a monastery for monks. Due to its lower elevation, it offers incredible views of some of the higher monasteries. You can get this view from below before doing the climb.
Monastery St Nicholas Anapafsas of Meteora
St Nicholas is thin and tall due to its narrow perch. Possibly due to the steps to reach the various floors, it never seems as crowded as the others. Or maybe I am lucky.
It is the first monastery you reach if coming up from Kastraki. Continue to follow the road westward, and you will soon be in the middle of Kastraki. If your timing is right, stop for a meal.
(BACK TO TOP)
Kalabaka Town.
Some say there is nothing to see in Kalabaka, but I disagree. Here are a few things to fill in the time waiting for the day-trippers to leave. The what?
The multi-day bus programs will hit the monasteries, usually by 10:00 AM and be heading to Delphi or somewhere else by noon.
The same day train and bus tours usually hit around 11:00 AM and are usually heading back to Athens by 2:00 PM or 3:00 at the latest. So hit a monastery in the morning before the first group arrives. Then hang out in town or take a hike until 3:00 PM when the masses have left. See another monastery and enjoy the lengthening shadows from its terrace.
Holy Temple of Dormition of the Virgin Mary – is at the base of the rock. Dating from circa 6th or 7th century A.D., they dedicate this Christian church to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. The 11th-century Byzantine frescoes are worth the visit. The perspective of the rock behind it is an additional treat.
Digital Projection Centre of Meteora’s History and Culture – screens a 3-D film with a brief intro into Mythology and Mount Olympus. The majority of the 38-minute film is the creation of Meteora and its monasteries.
Presentations in English are Monday – Saturday in the afternoon. Reservations are a requirement, and there must be a minimum of four per screening.
Hellenic Culture Museum (Greek Education Museum) – is an impressive private collection displaying the history of Greek education. In addition to the extensive collection of printed material, there is an old schoolroom and different exhibit halls. The displays introduce Greek to English-reading guests.
Natural History Museum of Kalampaka & Mushroom Museum – has more than 300 exhibits, including birds, mammals, and mushrooms. Not only do they have an excellent mushroom exhibition area, but they also offer truffle hunting on select days between March and September. See the website (orange link) for more details.
Kastraki
The village of Kastraki is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Meteora.
Also, the Greek State classifies it as a traditional resort (village) under preservation. A majority of the structures are of stone, with clay tile roofs. Buildings cannot exceed a certain height out of tradition, and out of respect for the surrounding landscape.
I prefer Kastraki with its small village vibe, although there are more people every time I visit. If you are into hiking, this is a better base than Kalabaka as it puts you near several trails.
Chapel of Doupiani. – The small church of Panaghia Doupiani (Virgin Mary of Doupiani) sits at the base of the Doupiani rock. It was here in the 9th century A.D. that hermits began gathering. They would live in cavities in the rock above and meet at the base every Sunday for prayer. In the 12th-century, they built this church on the same spot. The frescos are impressive.
Memorial Park
This park seems to be as close to a town center as I have found. I cannot put my finger on it, but the views or perspectives from here are inspiring. The rocks containing many of the first hermit caves and even the rock of Adrachti are visible from here.
- Meteora Geological History Museum – overlooks Memorial Park and inhabits the old elementary school. Opening in 2018, it shows the formation of the area from its marine beginnings 30 million years ago.
Panagia Church
You can reach this small chapel via a packed dirt lane from town. However, it is uphill most of the way. The current small chapel is not the reason you visit. It allows access to views of several of the hermit caves – monasteries you cannot see from town.
- St. Nicholas (Badovas) – is one of the monk caves (monastery) that sits on the side of the cliff. As you face the Panagia chapel, look right and up for a building in a half-moon cutout. Dating from the 14th century, it is no longer accessible to the public.
- Panagia Monastery – Look to the left. A few hundred feet ahead of you are the remains of the original Panagia. Although not accessible by the public, you can get close. During my last visit, 2018, there was still part of one of the wooden and rope ladders hanging from above.
Cave of St George Madilas – is more a ledge than a cave. You can see it from many places in Kastraki in the side of the rock to the east. It looks like there are numerous pieces of material or flags on a clothesline in the cave. These represent scarves and pertain to a centuries-old legend about a scarf and a miracle from St George. Every April 23, professional climbers using ropes climb to the cave and hang the new scarves. There are trails under the cave, but I think the better view is from the town.
Hikes
Monastery of Ypapanti – is a “hidden” monastery as it is separate from the rest of the remaining sites. You reach it by hiking along a dirt path off the main road from Kastraki to St Stephen’s Monastery. The hike is not strenuous and takes about 50 minutes each way.
NOTE: the monastery is not open to the public. So why go? Because it is unlike all the other sites in the area. It sits inside a large cavity in the side of the rock, not on top. It dates from circa 1367 A.D.
Tower of Agia (Aghia) – is another hike from Kastraki. This almost 1900 foot (630 meters) high rock formation is the tallest in the area. From Kalabaka, you can spot a white cross in a valley on the right side near the top.
The view from the cross is awe-inspiring but requires a strenuous hike for only fit people. The Holy Spirit Rock Hiking Trail markings are pretty non-existent. A local guide (human, not paper) is an excellent investment.
Just Outside of Town.
Cave of Theopetra – contains one of Greece’s most extended archaeological sequences ranging from 300,000 B.C. to 4,500 B.C. They have found human remains dating to circa 7600 B.C. and other artifacts much earlier than that. They have been able to date a stone wall back 23,000 years, making it the oldest human-made structure. Unfortunately, the cave is currently not open to the public.
Theopetra Cave Documentation and Education Center – is below the cave’s entrance. Using videos, interactive displays, and findings from the cave, it teaches about Greek prehistory and the cave.
Kalabaka Summary.
Driving to Kalabaka from Athens will take over four hours and train around five. Some will try to do it as a day trip, and that is possible. Unfortunately, you miss the sunrise and the sunset, which to me, are the most magical times of the day.
Also, the monasteries are not open seven days a week. And sometimes they will close for no reason with no advanced warning. Use the table below as a general guide for April through October.
The winter months have shorter visiting hours, and Great Meteoron and Vaarlam are open fewer days of the week.
It is best to re-check times closer to your travel date or be completely flexible and visit whoever is open.
- St. Stephen’s Nunnery – Is open from 9:00 to 17:30. It closes midday from 13:30 to 15:30. It is not open on Mondays.
- Great Meteoron Monastery – Is open from 09:00 to 15:00. It does not close midday. It is not open on Tuesdays.
- Roussanou Monastery – is open from 09:00 to 17:00. It does not close midday. It is not open on Wednesdays.
- Holy Trinity Monastery – is open from 09:00 to 17:00. It does not close midday. It is not open on Thursdays.
- Varlaam Monastery – opens from 09:00 to 16:00. It does not close midday and is not open on Fridays.
- Agios Nikolaos Anapafsas Monastery – is open 8:00 to 16:00. It does not close midday. It also is not open on Fridays.
Once again, this is a general overview and not a specific schedule. You must check with the particular monasteries closer to your travel date.
Be aware that the Monasteries of Meteora can, and do, change their opening hours and days without any prior notice! Around the times they flip from winter to summer, (or the opposite), expect them to change last minute.
Here is another excellent reason to spend at least one night in the area, additional flexibility. It is a long way to drive for disappointment.
And set some time aside to see the other sites the area has to offer. Taste the local cuisine and wine.
Who or whatever your religious or spiritual higher power is, you will feel nearer from on top of the rocks.