THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Ios Greece. Where is it, and what does it offer?
Hiding in plain sight between Naxos and Santorini, it offers something for everyone.
Visit Ios Town.
There are predominantly two parts to the main town on the island.
Gialos (Yialos) is the port (lower) town where the ferries arrive. Here, you will find what you expect to find near a ferry pier. Travel agencies, car rentals, often the same thing, sundries stores, and low price accommodations. And the hawkers meeting every ferry with their sign-waving and yelling to sell you something.
Further along the harbor, it calms down, and there are a few places to grab a coffee, soda, or lunch.
North of the harbor is Paralia (beach) Gialos. There are sunbeds and services nearby. There are no major attractions in Gialos outside of people watching.
The Chora refers to the area of the town on top of the hill. Here you will find older architecture, museums, churches, and more.
Archeological Museum of Ios.
This small museum, with four rooms, has an interesting collection of artifacts from the island. Finds come from the Early Cycladic era and the early Bronze Age settlement of Skarkos. The Town Hall is in the same building.
Visit Ios Churches.
The local legend is there are 365 churches on the island. These range from the large to chapels that barely fit four people. I will not be listing them all. If you would like to count them…
Here are a few in town worth checking out.
Evangelismos Cathedral.
This large Whitewashed church with its blue dome is the center of the Chora, think courthouse. Dating from 1930, it sits on the spot of the previous Aghios Nikolaos Church.
Aghia Ekaterini.
From the 17th century, this church includes several fragments of columns and a piece of Ionic capital in its construction. The church may be on the temple of Pythian Apollo, and the column fragments from the temple.
Panagia Gremiotissa Church.
This church dates from circa 1797 A.D. It sits on a hill above the Chora, making it visible from almost anywhere in town.
(Virgin Mary of the Steep Cliff) is the patron saint of the island. Sunsets are very popular from here. Three chapels sit above the church on the same hill.
NOTE: Many churches and chapels are closed when not in use for a service. Many of these have signs prohibiting climbing on the roof and ringing the church’s bells. Did I mention a large number of younger visitors? Coincidence?
Windmills.
The island has 12 traditional windmills, although only three have been restored. Catching the almost constant wind on the hillside, they were for grinding barley and wheat. Today, they are private properties, some serving as houses.
Visit Ios Outside of Town.
Odysseas Elytis Theater.
Dating from 1997, this open-air theater is in the style of those from thousands of years earlier. The round seating area is constructed from local stone and can seat 1100 spectators. In the summer, it hosts concerts, plays, and in May, the Homeria festival honoring Homer, who died on Ios. The theater is near the Gaitis Museum and named after the Nobel-winning Greek poet.
Archeological site of Skarkou.
This early Bronze Age settlement (circa 3200 B.C.) is one of the most important prehistoric sites in the Cyclades. Circling a hilltop, the ruins indicate homes with a ground floor for storage and food preparation. A first floor above was the living quarters. The current ruins are in a style in use around 3000 B.C. Many of the artifacts are in the local museum.
Church of Agia Irini.
This lovely white 17th-century Byzantine church is probably the most photographed church on Ios. Not necessarily because it is the prettiest, but you sail right past it when entering the harbor on your right. It is a great location to sit and watch the harbor traffic come and go.
Modern Art Sculptures of Ios.
As you come around a bend on the road to Homer’s Tomb, four statues are along the road. The two middle ones look like sections of a brick wall. The fourth one may be an unfinished head.
The first one, coming from town, leaves less to the imagination. A man, bending over, sans toga, moons every car going by. They are marble statues, so they are not cheap and not lightweight. The locals know more about them than they will let on.
Homer’s Tomb.
The man, the legend. But was he a man? Some think maybe he was a group of men. Where is he from? When exactly did he live? Did he die on Ios? Was he warned to avoid Ios? Did he kill himself stressing over a riddle? And you thought workplace mortality was something new. Whatever you believe, at the end of a twisty drive to the far northeast of the island, is a marker. Reaching the marker requires a hike from the parking area along a well-marked partially-paved walkway.
The marker says the dirt covers his head. Is he all here? Only part of him? Was he ever here? There is another plaque, completely in Greek, nearby.
Even if you do not believe any of the lore, the scenic drive is rewarding. On my visit, there was no one else around. That was nice after coming from Mykonos.
Agia Theodoti Church.
A ten-minute detour off the road between town and Homer is the oldest church on the island. Dating back 500 years, it sits on the ruins of an ancient Roman temple. The Roman Catholics would first use the church.
There are probably the remains of a Roman settlement underneath the few buildings of the Agia Theodoti “village.” In addition, there are a few pieces of a Roman aqueduct still visible and possibly foundations of walls older than they look.
The settlement did not have phones until the 1970s, and the paved road only dates from 1998.
Agios Ioannis Byzantine monastery.
On the road to Papa Beach is this 17th-century monastery. Dedicated to St John the Baptist, the church has undergone massive restoration. Unfortunately, the monastery is not in great shape. The views are the reason to stop.
Paleokastro.
This Byzantine castle is on the Eastern side of the island on the road to Psathi. Look for the small sign on the left as you are driving towards Psathi.
Dating from circa1400 A.D., it was built by the Venetian Francesco Crispo, possibly on top of a previous fortification. He also held the title Duke of Naxos, which included all the surrounding islands. The remains of the castle, basically interior walls, still hold a commanding view. On a clear day, you can see to Naxos.
There is a paved walking path up to the ruins. The best view of the ruins, in my opinion, is from the road. The small church of Panagia Paliokastritissa is inside the walls.
Diaseli Ios Traditional Cheesery.
This local dairy farm has been producing cheese for decades. There is a small cheese museum on the property. It is near the road split to Psathi or the southern part of the island.
Ios Beaches (Paralia).
There are more than 30 beaches, from large full-service ones to small deserted bays. The beaches of Ios are often in the Top Ten of Greek beaches. They are a reason to visit Ios.
Mylopotas (Milopotas).
Just south of town, it has received the Blue Flag award for its crystal clear water and white sand. It is the most popular beach on the island and offers everything you need for a day in the sun.
Magganari.
Also winning the Blue Flag, this south shore lagoon offers four beaches. The first beach offers amenities and conveniences. The other three are less “commercial.”
The diving movie “The Big Blue” used this area for some filming.
Koumbara.
This is another beach with most of the services you will need. It is just north of the port. However, it does share the beach with one large beach club, which can mean crowds and noise during peak season. It is a great place for sunsets.
These three are the easiest beaches to reach that have numerous tourist services.
The rest of the beaches on this island require some planning to reach. Many require a strong four-wheel drive, a hike, or a boat to reach.
Many of them have no facilities at all. So my suggestion is to go by boat, taking facilities and food with you.
Some of these beaches are:
Agia Theodoti.
This is a quiet beach with a traditional tavern. One of the few you can get near using a car.
Psathi.
This serene beach is popular for windsurfing and swimming.
Visit Ios Summary.
Yes, Ios is for the young looking to party all day at the beach and the clubs by night.
But, there are options for those who do not want to shake their groove thing.
The ruins and archeological sites are not on the UNESCO list. But, they also don’t have the crowds that come with those sites.
There are great family-friendly beaches where you do not have to hear the thump thump thump of the beach clubs.
There are the sunsets. You could visit Ios just for these.
And the food. Find the tavernas where the locals are eating.
The staff will make you feel at home and serve you delicious home cooking.
That doesn’t sound all bad for a vacation. Visit Ios.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.