THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
The Gibraltar of the East, the Minoan Promontory, the Rock, Malmsey, Napoli de Malvasia, – it goes by many names.
A rock formation on the Peloponesse’s east coast, jutting out into the Aegean Sea.
So what is the story of this geographical and natural wonder?
Ancient Laconia
In the southeast corner of the Peloponnese, Laconia has several treats, but the biggest is Monemvasia.
With vertical cliffs on all sides and its separation from the mainland, you may think this was an impressive acropolis.
But there are no signs indicating ancient Greek inhabitants on the top.
Maybe the walls were too imposing.
And in ancient times, it was part of the mainland. It was not until circa 375 A.D. during an earthquake that it became an island.
The name comes from the Greek, Mone (single) and emvassi (entrance), referring to the land bridge pre-earthquake.
However, the ancient region, which today is Laconia, of the southern Peloponesse has very few records of Ancient Greeks.
Sparta, approximately 60 miles north of Monemvasia, seems to be the end of civilization in ancient times.
Closer to Monemvasia are the ruins of Epidaurus Limera, a Mycenean outpost from the 6th Century B.C.
There is probably a small trading camp at the base due to the protected waters, but little ancient Greek History.
The Romans
When the Romans arrive in Laconia circa 146 B.C., they improve the existing towns but do not expand.
Civilization still seems to end along an imaginary line running from Sparta to Megalopolis in the southwest.
Not So Ancient Laconia and Monemvasia.
The rest of the Peloponesse falls off the Roman radar when the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Empire begins expanding circa 395 A.D.
The Romans, then Byzantines do not abandon Greece, but their focus in on the clash between Rome and Constantinople. Then another threat from the east.
While the Roman Empire fights with the Byzantine Roman Empire, invaders from the north invade the chicken coop.
The town and fortress of Monemvasia date from circa 583. The first inhabitants are people from mainland Greece fleeing the invaders.
There are no records of any serious breaches during the first 400 years. Also, during this time, the town becomes a vital harbor and trading center for Laconia.
Circa 1147, the fortress wards off the Arabs invading from the south and the Normans from the north.
Bye Bye Byzantine
1204, and the Pope’s troops “accidentally” sack Constantinople during the bloody land-grab they call the Fourth Crusade.
The former Byzantine lands are up for grabs to whoever has the bigger army and bankbook.
Most of the Greek mainland and all of the Peloponesse goes to the Despotate of Epirus. He renames the Peloponesse, including Laconia, as The Morea.
Circa 1262, the Byzantines capture the current Despotate. He uses Monemvasia as his get out of jail card.
Laconia Monopoly
For the next two hundred years, It remains a part of the Byzantine Empire. During this time, it will become a seat for an imperial governor. Also, an important supply port for Byzantine operations against the Franks. From the harbor, they would export the local Monemvasia, (Malmsey) wine.
By 1453, Christian Constantinople falls to the Ottomans. Within five years, the Ottoman conquests reach Laconia. The Ottomans seize all of the Morea except Monemvasia. They try for two years before moving on to the west and new lands to conquer.
Venitian Influence.
The Venetians receive Monemvasia and do a better job of guarding this waterside location, probably because of their naval superiority.
For the next 40 years, Venetian Laconia does well, while the Venetian-Ottoman clash is taking place all around.
In 1537, The Ottomans break the peace with Venice and attack Corfu. Their navy, under Barbarossa, seizes the last Venetian strongholds in the Aegean, Andros, Naxos, Paros, Santorini, Nauplio, and Monemvasia.
Ottoman Rule
The Ottomans will rule over the Peloponesse for approximately the next 200 years.
The Russians Are Coming
By 1760, the Ottoman Empire is spreading itself too thinly over much of southern and eastern Europe. They are not able to defend themselves well.
Russia seizes upon this and starting in Poland circa 1768, begins collecting real estate.
The Russians arrive in the Southwest corner of the Morea in early 1770. They come, but without the troops, they were promising. Very quickly, mutual distrust develops between the Greek and Russian leaders.
With little help from the Russians, the Greeks split into two groups. One in Laconia, and the other in the west of the peninsula.
The Ottomans, needing all their soldiers on the Russian front, send Albanian mercenary troops to the Morea. They slaughter the rebels.
The Ottomans ask the Albanians to stay and police the area. When the Ottomans can not pay them, the Albanians start looting and massacring the towns of the Morea. It is not until 1779 that military forces push the Albanians out of the peninsula.
Striking The Match
With the end of the Russo-Turkish war, Russia gets something, the Ottomans get something, and the Greeks get nothing.
The Greeks are tiring of having someone over them. Disdain for the Ottomans and mistrust for the Russians continues to grow.
Greeks in the Morea (Maniots) declare war on March 17. They capture Tripolitsa, the Ottoman command in the Morea.
In July of that year, troops march into Laconia, liberating it from Ottoman rule.
Unfortunately, by 1824, the Greek factions cannot agree and begin infighting among themselves.
The Egyptians land on the Peloponnese in February 1825. Within ten months, most of the peninsula is under their control. When Athens falls in the next year, it looks like the Greek revolution is over.
The Plot Thickens
By 1927, Europe’s three Great Powers (Russia, Britain, and France) fear the Ottomans are growing in strength again.
They send their fleets to intercept the Ottoman-Egyptian navy at Navarino. When the Ottomans do not step down, the Allies send their fleet to the bottom.
This turn of events energizes the revolutionaries.
The 1830 Treaty of Constantinople recognizes Greece as an independent state.
Prince Otto of Bavaria becomes the first king of Greece by 1832.
However, that is the mainland and Peloponesse only. It will not be until 1948 and the end of WWII that all of today’s Greece will be one.
World War II
Monemvasia is one of the luckier locations in Greece during World War II. By the beginning of 1941, the Germans are swarming into the Peloponesse. By April, they reach Monemvasia, one of the last evacuation ports for the retreating New Zealand troops.
The Germans use Monemvasia as a hospital and recovery area for German soldiers. Because of this, they do not use the village for targeting practice as they do so many other Greek treasures.
Monemvasia Today
The name Monemvasia refers to the rock and the Byzantine village at its base.
The 1971 bridge links the island, once again, to the outside world.
The village on the mainland, at the other end of the bridge, goes by the name of Gefira.
In Gefira, the year-round population is around 800. On Monemvasia, it is less than 50. Many of the houses are now boutique hotels or expensive weekend homes.
The Island
Starting at the top is the Acropolis and Upper Town, the original town of Monemvasia. At the very top is the Fortress of Goulas.
Walking over the ruins, you can see the foundations of Byzantine houses and public buildings. Once they fortify the Lower Town, the servants and workers live there, leaving the Upper Town for the wealthy.
There is a large cistern that collects water.
- St. Sophia
The only intact structure begins as a Byzantine church sometime during the reign of Emperor Andronikos II Paleologos. He rules around circa 1300 A.D.
He dedicates the church to Panagia Hodegetria, which means “the One who Shows the Way.” An Icon will depict Mary holding the Baby Jesus and pointing towards Jesus, who “shows the way.”
The interior is a simple design with a dome on the top. The frescos date from the same time as the construction.
In the Venetian times, it becomes a Catholic Convent. The Venetian loggia along the façade dates from this time.
It appears the Ottomans did not use it as a mosque.
After the winning of Greece’s Independence, they dedicate the church to Sophia. In the Orthodox Church, Sophia is the feminine personification of divine or Holy Wisdom.
The Walk
A walk (zig-zagging staircase) links the Upper Town to the Lower Town. The highest point of the Upper (Kastro) Town is just under 1000 feet above sea level.
They say it takes 20 minutes to do the climb. Maybe if you are part billy-goat. Take your time and enjoy stops for taking in the view. The Upper City isn’t going anywhere.
The walls on the waterside of the walk were to make the trail invisible from enemy ships.
Wear walking shoes with a rubber sole. These rocks are slippery from 1500 years of people wearing them down.
I recommend the early morning because it is usually more refreshing, and you beat the bus tours. Also, they close the upper town access in the early afternoon.
Lower Town
In the Lower Town, there are very few specific things to see. You need to wander and just take it all in. Find the little courtyard that doubles as a laundry and an outdoor living room. See the small bistro table and chairs on a landing, the flowers everywhere, or the staircase leading to?
Today, there are only 15 of the original 40 churches in Monemvasia. See how many you can find.
As you enter the gate from the causeway, there is only one main street in the Lower Town. It runs from the gate to the far wall. Everything is uphill to the left, or downhill to your right, off of this main street.
There are no motor vehicles in Monemvasia. Supposedly they still use donkeys to move items. I have only seen this one time and early in the morning.
- The Church of Elkomenos Christos (Website in Greek)
This small Byzantine church is easy to find as it is on the main square and has a bell tower. It, like many of the structures, sits on the foundation of an earlier structure. The Lower Town suffers many attacks over the years. This building dates from circa 1697. Elkomenos Christos (Christ in Chains) refers to the walk by Jesus to the cross. Many of the Icons inside depict Christ this way. There is a fee to enter.
The building house the collection began as a Muslim mosque circa the 1600s. It will serve for several other uses, including a prison before today’s use. The collection includes items from the early Christian, Venetian, and Ottoman periods of the Kastro (castle) of Monemvasia. It is a great starting place before exploring the rest of the town, which is like a museum.
Losing Yourself!
Just start strolling.
See what you can find. A little taverna here, a guest house there. Here a marker, there a path along the ramparts, everywhere something to see. Ol Monemvasia has some charm.
Laconia and Monemvasia Summary
Of course, you come to Laconia for Monemvasia and its impressive Kastro (castle). But this corner of the Peloponesse has so many other things to do, see and taste.
Make sure you plan enough time.
Laconia is just one of Greece’s great secrets.
Learn more about Monemvasia.
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“Do you ever dream of finding a place with a slower pace? What would you do in Monemvasia?”
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.