June 20, 2021 – Orlando Without Roller Coasters.

THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.

WHERE TO?                       TASTE.                        SEE.

If I mention Orlando, most people immediately start dreaming of butterbeer or wishing upon a star.

Did you know Disney World is officially not within the Orlando City Limits?

The theme parks are southwest of the city, and the airport is due south.

In other words, many people never see Orlando when they visit the theme parks.

Today, we are going to visit the city and forget about the theme parks.

Orlando Proper Downtown.

Lake Eola and Park.

This lake and surrounding green area is the emblem of Orlando proper. A walk (or jog) around the lake is just under one mile. Pedal a swan boat, enjoy the real swans, or just relax. Entertainment takes place year-round at the Walt Disney Amphitheater. On Sundays, a Farmers Market takes place.

Dr. Phillips Center for the Performing Arts.

Presenting Broadway, opera, ballet, concerts, and more, the center is an anchor for the southern part of downtown.

Church Street.

A few blocks north of the Dr. Phillips Center, this has been a nightlife location for decades. The Old Orlando Railroad Depot and several surrounding buildings house retail and entertainment venues. This is the heart of Orlando proper.

Cathedral Church of St Luke.

The 1924 church is still home to the St. Luke’s Mission of the Episcopal church. Francis Eppes, Thomas Jefferson’s grandson, began the church in his home. It grew with the help of leading first families, including the Greetham, Shine, Summerlin, and the Westcotts. Very proper. If you can, catch a service using its impressive organ. This is also home to the Orlando Deanery Boychoir and Girls Choir.

Orange County Regional History Center.

The historic courthouse building is worth seeing by itself. Inside, the museum houses exhibits on local and regional history dating back more than 12,000 years.

Atlantic Coastline Station.

This Spanish-Mission style building has been greeting train travelers to Orlando since the 1920s. It won the 2014 City of Orlando’s Historic Preservation Award and is the current Amtrak station. What a proper arrival. Hopefully in 2022, a highspeed train will be bringing guests to Orlando from Southeast Florida.

Tinker Field.

Just west of downtown is this listing on the United States National Register of Historic Places. During the reconstruction of the adjacent Orlando Citrus Bowl Stadium, they tore down the grandstand and buildings. As of 2021, nothing remains except a historical marker and gate. Its history includes being spring training home of the Brooklyn Dodgers, Cincinnati Reds, Minnesota Twins, and Washington Senators.

Martin Luther King Jr. made his only public speech in Orlando here during March of 1964.

Black Bottom House of Prayer.

This historic 1925 church, in the current Parramore neighborhood, is a key player in Orlando’s history. At the time of the building, the area went by the name Black Bottom. This was due to the low ground turning to mud during rainstorms. Since 2017, the church has been undergoing restoration. Access may be limited.

Wells’ Built Museum of African American History & Culture.

This small museum offers an in-depth look into the local African American history in the Parramore neighborhood. The exhibits look at Orlando through the last 100+ years through photographs, artwork, books, and more. The building from circa 1926 began as a hotel. It is now on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places. The museum is open Monday through Friday.

Thornton Park.

Just east of Lake Eola is this Bohemian residential area with popular boutiques, cafes, and classic bungalow homes. Large Oak trees shade traditional brick streets.  It has a very calming effect. Proper houses are everywhere.

H.H. Dickson Azalea Park and Washington Street Bridge.

This park and bridge, near Thornton Park, date from circa 1924 and 1926. Both are Orlando Historic Landmarks. The blooming season for Azaleas is late February to early April, but the park is lovely year-round. The bridge is the only concrete structure of its type in Orlando.

 

North of Downtown Orlando Proper.

Ivanhoe Village.

Just north of downtown on North Orange Avenue is this funky neighborhood. It features art galleries, design centers, restaurants, and antique and retail shops. Ivanhoe Park is on the shores of Ivanhoe Lake.

Loch Haven Park.

On the east side of the Ivanhoe Village area, between two lakes, is Loch Haven Park. Some refer to this area as the Museum Area due to the abundance of museums and cultural offerings.

Orlando Museum of Art.

Celebrating 100 years in 2024, the collection includes ancient and contemporary works from the Americas. There is also an impressive collection of African art as well as temporary exhibits.

The Mennello Museum of American Art.

The Howard Phillips* home in Loch Haven Park is the setting of the museum. The collection includes paintings and sculptures of American art. The prize permanent collection is paintings by American Folk artist Earl Cunningham.

*Who are the Phillips that keep appearing? Dr. Philip Phillips would earn a medical degree from Columbia University. But it turns out his passion is citrus fruit. During the early 1900s, he will build an empire that includes 28 groves spread over 9 Florida counties. In addition, he owns citrus packing houses and a cannery. He creates the Dr. P. Phillips Foundation to give back to the Orlando community. His son, Howard Phillips, will carry on his father’s philanthropic legacy. Dr. Phillips’s house is now an event space in downtown Orlando.

Orlando Science Center.

This science museum provides experience-based opportunities for learning about science and technology. There is something for all age groups.

Orlando Fire Museum.

This museum in a 1926 fire station covers local fire department history somewhat tricky to find behind the Science Center. It is only open on weekends.

Orlando Shakespeare Theater

Orlando Shakes is a theater company producing classic, contemporary, and children’s plays for more than 30 years. The theater is next door to the Science Center. In May, it is home to the Orlando Fringe Theater Festival. This is the longest-running Fringe theatre festival in the United States. In May, Orlando may be a little inproper.

Audubon Park Garden District.

Due east of Lock Haven Park is this Orlando Main Street neighborhood. Corrine Drive is the “main street” of this hip neighborhood of shopping and eating outlets. You can find boutiques next to artisan cheese shops. The surrounding neighborhood includes houses from the 1920s through the mid-century period.

East End Market.

This two-story indoor market includes bakeries, cheese, meat, and other artesian crafts. There is some outdoor seating, but it goes fast.

Harry P Leu Gardens.

The gardens began circa 1936 when Mr. and Mrs. Harry P. Leu purchase the Leu House and 40 acres. During their travels worldwide, they bring back many exotic plants and more than 200 varieties of camellias. Circa 1961, the Leus gift the house, which is on the historic register, and the gardens to Orlando.

College Park

This neighborhood, northwest of downtown, has streets with college names such as Princeton, Yale, and others. It also has many 20th-century cottages, green spaces, and lakes. The neighborhood is home to the Dubsdread Golf Course, dating from the 1920s.

This is another neighborhood with an abundace of Orlando proper historic homes.

Writer Jack Kerouac’s House.

The beat generation writer lived on Clouser Avenue when his masterpiece ‘On the Road’ was published. He would write the follow-up, ‘The Dharma Bums,’ here as well. Today, the house serves as a non-profit center for up-and-coming writers.

Astronaut John Watts Young’s Boyhood Home.

John Young is one of the few astronauts to fly on four different classes of spacecraft. They range from the Gemini to the Space Shuttle. He would attend grades 1 through 12 while living here. Orlando has many connections to N.A.S.A.

Winter Park.

Dating from 1881, Winter Park was a planned city from the beginning. Starting with a grid of streets, a town hall, a store, and landscaping including orange trees, following stylistic standards. With the addition of a post office and a railroad station, its popularity increases. A 200 room grand hotel, the Seminole, opened in 1886.  It is the largest hotel south of Jacksonville and includes gas lights, steam heating, a formal ding room, and more. People begin wintering in Winter Park.

Park Avenue.

Set out as the main street of Winter Park, it still serves that purpose. The train depot sits in the middle of a park on the west side of the avenue. The east side has boutiques, gallery cafes, and restaurants.

 Winter Park History Museum.

Sitting in a former railroad freight depot south of the depot, the museum is a great source of local history. The Winter Park Historical Association runs it.

Rollins College.

In 1885, the Florida Congregational Assembly created Rollins College, Florida’s first four-year college. Today, it is the number one business school in Florida. It sits at the foot of Park Avenue on the lake.

Cornell Fine Arts Museum.

On the grounds of Rollins College, this teaching museum features a permanent collection from alumni and residents. It is home to the only Grand Masterpieces in Orlando. It also hosts numerous visiting exhibits.

The Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art.

Anchoring the north end of Park Avenue, this museum houses an art nouveau collection and American Decorative Art and Sculpture. Its pride and joy is its collection of Louis Comfort Tiffany items. It is the world’s most comprehensive collection of his works. The collection includes Tiffany furniture, mosaic work, and architectural elements in addition to stained glass.

Mead Botanical Garden.

Just south of downtown Winter Park is this lovely garden and park. An outdoor stage hosts performances throughout the year. You can walk the paths or just sit and relax.

Kraft Azalea Garden.

Dating from 1938, several residents, including George Kraft (not of caramel fame), hired a nurseryman to design the garden. Most beautiful in the early Spring with the blooming azalea, it is a tranquil spot year-round.

Albin Polasek Museum & Sculpture Gardens.

The house of this acclaimed Czech sculptor is on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places. Stroll the house, galleries, and gardens admiring his work and of other artists. It is a short drive from the Kraft garden.

Winter Park Scenic Boat Rides.

See Orlando, or in this case Winter Park, from the water one time. Several lakes offer sightseeing tours. This one includes Rollins College and many of Winter Park’s historical mansions.

 

Maitland.

Also featuring historic homes, gardens, and lakes, Maitland, just north of Winter Park, compliments its neighbor. Officially, it is just outside Orlando proper.

Art & History Museums Maitland.

The grounds are home to four different, unique museums.

The Waterhouse Residence Museum.

This 1884 home of pioneer settler William H. Waterhouse will take you back to early Florida. Guides lead tours through this original home.

The Maitland Historical Museum.

Run by the historical society, this museum will give you an additional view of the town’s history.

The Maitland Art Center.

The center began as an art colony circa 1937. Today it is home to contemporary art exhibitions, residency programs for professional artists, and art instruction. The building itself is one of the few surviving examples of “Mayan Revival” architecture in the American Southeast. This earned the building National Historic Landmark status.

The Telephone Museum.

This quirky museum is fun. Not only are there hands-on displays, but the history is entertaining. Come, learn about the Winter Park Telephone Co.

Orlando Proper Summary.

So there is plenty to see and do in Orlando proper without ripping out one E-ticket.

And we did not even mention the 58 golf courses in or within 20 miles of Orlando.

Next time, or the first time you plan a trip to Orlando, make sure you see Orlando proper as well.

It just may surprise you what you have been missing.

Read more about Orlando Proper.

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“Besides theme parks, what else did you know about Orlando? 

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“See the World” Continued on Page T3.           “Taste the World” Continued on T11.