THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Last week we were talking about Lyon France and many of the buildings on the UNESCO World Heritage Historic Site of Lyon.
But we did not say anything about Lyonnaise cuisine.
Many consider Lyon to be the Culinary Capital of France, so maybe they deserve a little attention.
It currently has more than ten Michelin-starred restaurants in the city.
But that is nothing. There are more than 70 Michelin-starred chefs in the region and over 2,000 restaurants.
So what exactly is Lyonnaise? It means “from Lyon”, or “Lyon-style”.
Lyonnaise Paul Bocuse. 1926 – 2018
Born in nearby Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or, he put the nouvelle into French cuisine. He was a chef to presidents and a teacher to chefs around the world. Nicknames include Pope of Gastronomy, Chef of the Century, and The Lion of Lyon, which may be self-given.
He is the winner of several culinary awards, including the Medal of Commandeur de la Légion d’ honneur. The Bocuse d’Or is (for French food) the most prestigious chef award in the world. The Culinary Institute of America now calls their Escoffier restaurant at Hyde Park The Bocuse, for France’s most famous chef.
But was he any good? He earns his first Guide Michelin star in 1958, his second only two years later. Then in 1965, he takes his father’s hostel-tavern, L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, to three stars. That alone is amazing.
That it holds on to that rating for the next 55 years is record-breaking. The 2020 Michelin Guide for France downgrades it to a two-star restaurant. This event is two years after he dies in the house he was born in, upstairs from the restaurant. In Lyon, he also has several brasseries for those wanting a slightly smaller gastronomic experience.
The Food
The food in Lyon has several influences. When Lyon was part of the Duchy of Burgundy, it was stretching into current day Switzerland and Italy.
This Royal Family would marry that royal family, and the new Dutchess would bring her chef.
And then there are the local, regional dishes. Auvergne has always been an agricultural area. For the workers, meals tend to be simple, rustic, hearty dishes featuring the best of local products. Think “peasant” cuisine from days of old. You can Taste Lyon in every bite.
The Auvergne- Rhone-Alpes region is famous for its cows. One is providing superior meat (Charolais) while the other offers sweet mountain milk for cheesemaking (Salers). Auvergne is renowned for its pork products and specializes in drying hams and curing sausages.
A.O.P. designation is only for traditional products with deeply-set geographical origins. Although Lyon, the city, does not have A.O.P. (P.D.O.) products, the surrounding area does.
Taste Lyon Appetizers.
Cervelle de Canut (Silk worker’s brains) – tastes much better than it sounds. Using local cheese, they add herbs, shallots, salt, pepper, vinegar, and olive oil, to make a cheese spread.
Saucisson de Lyon brioché (Sausage in brioche) – they bake the local cooked sausage in a brioche.
Cochonaille de porc (Cold meats from pork) – is a selection of different cuts of air-cured pork sausage and hams.
Rosette lyonnaise – is a local pork sausage with pepper. Perhaps the most popular in Lyon.
Gougères au Fromage (Baked Cheese Puffs) – is a baked pastry with local cheese in the middle.
Gateau de volaille – is a chicken liver “cake” using bread crumbs instead of flour. They may serve it as a large slice, several thin slices, and with, or without a sauce.
Soup and Salads.
Soupe Gratinée Lyonnaise – A quick 101 on onion soup. It did not originate in France, and it did not come with the crouton and cheese we picture today. Every village that had poor people had their version of onion (stone, cabbage, turnip, garbage) soup. It was whatever they could get their hands on, cooking it to death, and probably no seasoning.
As you can see, it has evolved. Today every village and hamlet still has a version of onion soup. The first two to write it down in recipe form seems to be Paris and… Lyon. It is NOT worth fighting over, it’s tremendous either place. The big difference is in Paris they often use vegetable broth. In Lyon they use only water. The type of wine may also vary with white or red in Paris and port or Madeira in Lyon.
The big difference between theirs and “American” French Onion soup is they layer the croutons and cheese. Not one time on top, but they build it like lasagna, bread, soup instead of sauce, cheese, repeat. Then they bake it until the cheese (local gruyere) is gooey and brown (Gratinée.)
Salade Lyonnaise – is fresh greens with bacon strips, mustard dressing, croutons, and a poached egg on top.
Groins d’ âne salad (donkey snout) – may refer to a pig smelling dent-de-lions. The ingredients are dandelions greens with fried bacon. It also includes garlic croutons, vinaigrette, and possibly bits of hard-boiled egg.
Taste Lyon Entrees.
Poulet au vinaigre à la lyonnaise – After sauteeing the chicken, they add a cream vinegar sauce.
Coq au vin – Chicken in wine is probably a dish from every region in France. The most prevalent version includes burgundy wine, and Lyon was for many years, part of the Duchy of Burgundy. Therefore many people label it a Lyon dish. Coq means cock, which is a tough bird, hence slow cooking it in wine. Today, they use chicken.
Poulet de Bresse – begins with the A.O.C. chicken from Bresse. They slow cook it with mushroom sauce, aux morilles or a cream sauce, à la crème
Quenelles de Brochet – in Lyon mix cream pike (fish) with egg, and maybe bread crumbs, before forming into a brochet. They poach these and serve them with a cream or crayfish sauce. Once a side dish, now they are popular as an entree.
Saucisson cuit (sausage cooked) – pretty standard preparation, but the sausages may contain truffles, nuts such as pistachios or other ingredients.
Side Dishes and Vegetables.
Cardoon à la Moelle (Cardoon and marrow.) – Cardoon are a vegetable from the artichoke family, but looking more like celery. They slow simmer them and add beef marrow.
Lyonnaise potatoes – are slices of potato they pan-fry in butter and parsley with thinly sliced onions.
Paillasson Lyonnais (Doormat from Lyon) – is the Lyon version of shredded hashbrowns using fresh potatoes and plenty of local butter.
Taste Lyon Desserts.
Bugnes de Lyon – are French dough they fry in oil, then sprinkle with sugar. Sometimes they dip them in a fruit jam-like sauce.
Pink Praline Tarte – is a local treat using the pink (almond) praline. The pralines are part of the filling that goes in the shell or crust, (tarte.)
Coussin de Lyon – is a local sweet from the chocolatier Voison, who has been in business for over 100 years. They wrap pale green marzipan, around chocolate, and Curacao flavored ganache with a thin almond paste. Or try their take on the quenelle.
The President Cake – is from Maison Bernachon. It contains three layers of cherry sponge cake with hazelnut praline ganache and cherry liquor filling between them. Then chocolate shavings cover this. It is good enough for the French President. Or just have a piece of their chocolate or unique hot chocolate.
Taste Lyonnaise Markets.
You are in the culinary capital of France, so expect quality products, and the prices that go with them.
Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse – THE Lyon market from 1859. A major renovation in 2004 pays tribute to the city’s favorite chef. In the 6th arrondissement, this covered market has the city’s finest vendors. Tuesday – Saturday and Sunday morning.
Marché Saint-Antoine – is along the Saone river in the 2nd arrondissement. Offering fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats, fish, wines, and flowers. Tuesday – Sunday
Marché de Monplaisir – offers fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats, poultry, fish, bread, and flowers in the 8th arrondissement. The Lumiere Museum is across the street. Only on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings.
There are smaller neighborhood markets that may only be one day a week or seasonal.
Lyonnaise Summary
Are these all the traditional dishes of Lyonnaise cuisine? Hardly. This is the tip of the iceberg.
Time of year also plays a large part as the availability of ingredients changes.
Hopefully, you see why the UNESCO sites are not the only reason to visit Lyon.
With so many influences on their cuisine, it has to be sensational.
So if you are on a Rhone river cruise, or speeding between Paris and Marseille, stop and taste Lyon.
Learn more about Auvergne cuisine.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.