THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Lyons (Lyon) sits in a valley at the meeting place of the Rhone and Saone Rivers.
It is France’s third-largest city approximately 300 miles south of Paris, and 200 miles north of Marseille.
It is the capital of the Auvergne-Rhone-Alps region and a culinary destination.
However, It does not have one landmark that qualifies as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has over 100 so that they list much of the town as the Historic Site of Lyon.
Ancient History
The Gauls
Somewhere in the 5th century B.C., Celtic tribes begin moving into the area of modern-day France. They are the Gauls. The Gauls were never one tribe or group of people. They were several tribes that would band together with other Gaul tribes for protection.
Despite Ceaser’s possible declaration on his 52 B.C. Veni Vidi Vici world tour, Gaul is already in five parts. Gallia Belgica, (Belgium) Celtica (Cental France becomes Lugdunensis), Cisalpina, (Western Italy) Narbonensis, (Southern France), and Gallia Aquitania (Southwest France.)
Today’s Auvergne-Rhone-Alps takes up a good part of eastern Celtica (Lugdunensis) and the northeast corner of Narbonensis.
Where the Rhone and Saone Rivers merge, the Romans realize that their new settlement is in a critical position. With the merging of the two rivers, communication between regions improves. They immediately begin building roads from here to move armies.
Soon it becomes the capital of Gallia Lugdunensis. It may be around this time when they start calling the town Lugdunum.
Here Come the Burgundians.
With two capitals, The Roman and Byzantine Empires stretch themselves too thin. They become easy targets for stronger enemies.
The Burgundians are a Germanic tribe in the upper Rhine. The Romans let them settle here under foederati. (Rome provides benefits, the Burgundians provide military support.) Circa 400, they set up the Kingdom of Burgundians.
Franks For the Memories
In 476 A.D., the Western Roman Empire falls. Clovis, the second king of the Franks, takes over Northern Gaul in the vacuum that follows. King Gundobad allies with him. By doing this, he secures the Burgundian holdings.
He is the founder of the Merovingian dynasty, who will rule the Frankish kingdom until 751. Their domain includes most of modern-day France, Germany, Switzerland, and Austria.
While the Franks Play
While the Merovingian dynasty members are busy undermining each other, Charles Martel is actively promoting himself. Also, he places his relatives into the offices of Mayor of the Palace in the Merovingian kingdoms. Soon they are the de facto rulers of the Franks and the real power behind the Merovingian throne.
With the support of the Papacy, in 751, they overthrow the Merovingian kings. The Carolingian dynasty will rule most of France for the next 500 years.
The Carolingian King Pepin dies in 768, and his sons take over. Their names are Carloman and Charlemagne.
Carloman dies of mysterious causes three years later. Funny how French history seems to have A LOT of mysterious deaths… His brother becomes the sole ruler.
In 800, the Pope makes Charlemagne the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. His kingdom includes France, the Kingdoms of Italy, Germany, Bohemia, and Burgundy.
When Charlemagne dies in 814, his son Louis becomes king. Louis dies in 840, leaving three sons. They split the empire and Europe Monopoly begins.
Circa 1004, the king, a member of the House of Capet, annexes Burgundy making it a free county. The Capets, under the name House of Burgundy, will rule for around 350 years.
Auvergne bounces around as a gift to members of the royal family but keeps coming back to the French Crown.
This passing around is not a bad thing. During this period, significant development takes place, including the building of famous abbeys and churches.
The House of Valois-Burgundy
Circa 1361, the House of Capets, does not have a legal heir. King John II takes the land for his House of Valois. They are distant relatives from the Capetian Dynasty.
The king gives the Duchy of Burgundy to his fourth son Philip the Bold. Philip immediately begins to strengthen his position through advantageous marriages.
The Valois see us through Mad King Charles, the Hundred Year War, Joan of Arc, and many land shuffles.
Fast Forward
For the next 400 years, the Descendents of the Capetian Dynasty will continue to rule the kingdom. From the Valois, power will pass to the Lancaster (briefly) back to the Valois and finally to the Bourbons. Louis XVI will be the last official Bourbon losing his head in 1792.
There is a revolution, a few French Republics, and Napoleon in the mix as well.
To read more about the history of France, click here.
Lyons Specific History
Lyon remains a vital town from its early Roman days. During the Middle Ages to the Industrial Revolution, several “French” Duchys contain chunks of Italy.
The city benefits from the industrial fairs different Italian merchants are presenting.
Lyon holds the title “counting-house of France” for at least the last 250 years. When international banking moves to other countries, they still have to deal with Lyon.
The Best of Times, The Worst of Times.
The Renaissance is an incredible time for Lyon due to its connections with Italy and the silk trade.
By the 1800s, Lyon is a famous industrial town, with silk being one of the largest industries.
The World Wars
In the First World War, Lyon is far enough behind the lines not to receive much damage.
During World War II, Lyon is a center for the occupying Nazi forces. It is where Klaus Barbie, the infamous “Butcher of Lyon,” leads the local Gestapo. He is responsible for nearly 14,000 deaths.
Lyon is a stronghold of the French Resistance, possibly why the significant Gestapo presence. There are still some of the secret passages (traboules) around the city. They would enable people to escape Gestapo raids. Today there is a Resistance Museum.
Lyons Today
Similar to Paris, Lyons has arrondissements, smaller sections with their council, and city hall. Currently, there are nine with the first, second, and fourth making up much of the city center. The Old Town is in the fifth.
As the second most prosperous city in France, Lyons plays a vital role in the economics of France and Europe. High-tech industries, including biotechnology, life sciences, software, and video game development, are on the rise. Other leading sectors include medical research and technology and large industries.
The good news is that tourism is an integral part of the economy, but it is not the largest. More than 50% of visitors come for business. That does not mean the sites are empty, far from it, but they usually do not experience the stupid-busy crowds.
Should-see in Old Lyons.
Vieux (old) Lyons
Let’s begin in the old section, the fifth Arrondissement, which today includes many UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Palais de justice historique de Lyon
The Palace of Justice, dating from 1845, is an excellent example of neo-classical architecture in France. The trial of Klaus Barbie took place here in 1987.
Walk to the rear of the Palais and turn right on Rue Saint-Jean, a pedestrian street. After two long blocks, you will come to the small square Pl. du Change.
Temple du Change
The first Loge du Change, dating from 1631, was sitting on the same site as this 1748 building. It may still include parts of the original structure. This beautiful neo-classic is the stock exchange until the revolution. The city assigns it to the Protestants for a church in 1803, making it a temple.
Musée Gadagne
The Maison des Avocats has been housing the Historical Museum of Lyon since 1924. The museum includes archaeological remains, paintings, sculptures, furniture, and pottery tracing Lyon’s cultural history.
This building is also the location of the Musée des Arts de la Marionnette (World Puppet Museum) since 1950. Focusing on the Guignol (lead puppet in French exhibition), it presents a beautiful window into the art.
Rue du Boeuf.
For the next several blocks (200 yards), most of the buildings are from the 1500-1600s. They began as private homes. By the 1800s, there are more than 140 silk workshops along the streets.
Traboules
Meaning to cross or transit, in Lyon, these refer to hidden passageways. They “cross” between the streets parallel to the river. Roads were often narrow, twisting, or invisible to slow down invaders.
The first traboules probably date to the 4th century at the bottom of Fourvière hill. The inhabitants did not have running water, so they came up with a safe, quick way to access the river. Later, so the silk-workers, (canuts) can go quickly between their workshops and the textile merchants at the bottom.
Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste
Construction begins in 1180 on the site of a previous 6th-century church. It takes almost 300 years to complete, which is why it contains both Romanesque and Gothic Architecture. The Duke of Bourbon, Charles II, and his brother build an impressive chapel on the church. The cathedral also has a 14th-century Astronomical Clock, which is no longer running.
La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière
This minor basilica dates from 1884 and sits on top of what was the Roman forum of Trajan. Forum Vetus, (old forum) eventually becomes Four Viere. The basilica has a great view of the city from its lofty perch. But go inside.
If you do not mind stairs, well a pretty incredible but strenuous staircase, there is a rooftop tour some afternoons. (345 stairs to climb.) You will get many different views of the church and city. I highly recommend reservations.
Metallic Tower of Fourvière
You will see something trying to look like the Eiffel Tower. The Metallic Tower is three years younger than the tour in Paris and has a design by Eugène Colonge. You can see several nods to Mr. Eiffel in its design. However, the tower in Lyons stands 282 feet, where the Tour de Eiffel is 984 feet, not including its antenna.
Today, this tower is an antenna, and not open to the public. In my opinion, it looks better from further away. The lighting at night is beautiful.
Ancient Lyons, Lugdunum
Lugdunum Museum (formally the Gallo-Roman Museum)
Part of the archeological (and UNESCO) site of Lugdunum, the museum has an impressive collection of artifacts. There is also the speech that hometown boy Claudius gives in 48 A.D. He later becomes the Roman emperor. The museum has interesting hands-on exhibits for people with vision impairments.
Roman Theater
The Roman or “large theater,” is the oldest theater (so far) in Roman Gaul. It is one of the largest, similar to the theater of Autun, and Vienne. As the city keeps growing, they add the third (highest) level doubling the capacity to 10,000 spectators.
In the summer, music and dance performances take place during the Nuits de Fourvière festival.
Roman Odeon
Next to the large theater, this smaller venue was typically for political meetings, declamations, and occasional concerts. Odeons appear in critical (political) cities, and there are very few in this part of the empire. The initial stage is missing, a victim to ancient D.I.Y. people carting it off as building material.
However, miraculously, they leave the floor of the orchestra. Remember, there are no Tiles-R-Us (or next day delivery) in those days. Stones from all over the Roman Republic make up a rather modern design. The green comes from Greece, the red from Egypt, the purple from Asia Minor, and the yellow from Africa.
Lyons Between The Rivers
Arrondissement 1.
There are several huge murals (frescos) around the city. Perhaps the most popular is the Fresque des Lyonnais, which depicts almost 30 people famous for Lyon’s history.
A fresque (fresco) to the silk workers, Mur des Canuts, is in the 6th Arrondissement.
Amphitheatre des Trois Gaules
What remains, dates from circa 17 A.D. and indicates Lyon’s status as an Imperial province to Rome. Although they rediscover the structure circa 1820, they allow urban sprawl to steamroll over the southern part. It would be one of the sites where the persecution of Christians was taking place.
Place Des Terreaux
The area may be part of a monastic community dating back to circa 650 A.D. During the Renaissance (1300-1500s), it is a place for markets. As the town grows up around it, they finally pave it circa the 1700s.
Today, it is the living room of Lyon, attracting people day and night.
Fontaine Bartholdi
The French sculptor, Frédéric Bartholdi, presents this beautiful fountain circa 1892. It symbolizes the Garonne River. Wait, there are two rivers in Lyon, and that’s not one of them. The sculpture was initially for the city of Bordeaux. When they saw the price tag, they did not take it. Lyon got it on sale. You may know the artist’s other works, including a lady in New York Harbor.
Hôtel de Ville de Lyons
At the east end of the Place Des Terreaux is the City Hall. The original building dates from circa 1651. A fire 20 years later destroys much of the original. It will take 20 more years before they have the funds to rebuild it. Then in 1803, another fire destroys it again. Tours are available through the Lyons Office de Tourisme.
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon
Today, the museum of fine arts fills The Royal Abbey of the Sisters of St. Pierre building.
The collections include ancient Egyptian antiquities through to Modern art. It is one of the largest museums in France and one of the most important in Europe. Works by Rodin, Renoir, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Correggio, El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt, Matisse, Picasso, Braque, and more are on display.
Arrondissement 2.
Place des Jacobins.
What you see today are buildings from circa 1860 while the fountain dates to 1885. With 11 streets leading to or from the square, it is always busy. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for Lyons.
Célestins Theater of Lyons
The name comes from a circa 1407 convent and church of the Celestine order. The land is a donation from a future Pope who takes it from the Templars. The 1877 theater you see today is the second one on this site. The first theater dates from 1792. It is one of only three theaters in France with more than 200 years of continuous performances. There have been appearances by Sarah Bernhardt, Joséphine Baker, and productions by Jean Cocteau, Samuel Beckett, Bertolt Brecht, and more.
Place Bellecour
During the French Revolution, it is the place de la Fédération and a place for public executions. Circa 1800, Napoleon I, lays the foundation stone for new construction, and the square bears his name. The current name, Place Bellecour, comes from the Third Republic. The square receives considerable bombing in WWII.
The equestrian statue is of Louis XIV and dates from 1825. The square is the largest pedestrian-only square in France, hosting many events throughout the year.
Lyons Summary
Are these the only should-see sites in Lyon? Hardly, and we did not even touch cuisine.
But hopefully, it shows you a reason to pin it on your map.
When you get out of Paris, many of the sites and museums also have very few English signs or descriptions.
I am not saying skip France, but I do recommend an excellent guide, either in print or a professional one.
Guides can add another dimension to a location.
Do not pass through Lyons racing from Paris to the Mediterranian. Stop and see what you are missing.
Read more about Lyons.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.