THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Last week, we began to explore all the unique nooks and crannies of Sevilla.
We did not even cover the districts of Macarena or Triana on Isla de La Cartuja. Read more on Sevilla.
Sevilla is the capital of the region of Andalusia. Today, I want to tell you about some of the fascinating sights that can be day trips from Seville.
Andalusia Just Outside of Town
Monasterio de San Isidoro del Campo
This ex-Monastery, dating from 1301 has a few stories to tell. Beginning with the Cistercians, in 1432, the Hieronymite hermits take up residence. They would change the look and operation of the monastery. Circa 1590, King Philip II orders the merger of the congregation with the Order of Jerónima.
You can see remnants of all the residents, from austere colorful wall paintings.
Arqueológico de Itálica
The UNESCO site of The Hadrianic City of Italica is a twenty-minute drive northwest of Seville. The Roman general Scipio began the settlement circa 206 B.C. Roman Emperors Trajan and Hadrian (Adrianus) are born here. Hadrian will turn it into a Roman city during his reign. It never becomes as large as nearby Hispalis (Seville), and this is probably a blessing. Very little of Hispalis remains (above ground), whereas Italica is in remarkably good shape. The town of Santiponce covers much of the original city.
Old Italica
- Teatro Romano de Itálica – dates from circa 20 B.C. You can see into the Theater through the metal fencing, but it is only open for performances and festivals.
Nova Urbs (new town)
There has never been another structure on top of this area. Much of this area dates from circa 100 A.D. during Hadrian’s rule.
Amphitheater – is straight ahead as you enter. At the time of its building, it is the third-largest in the Roman Empire. There is plenty of space for the 8,000 residents as the stadium holds 25,000 people. Did Hadrian have big plans for the city? The lake behind the amphitheater was the water source, a cistern for the town.
Walking south from the amphitheater, are the remains of the elite neighborhood. Few walls are standing, and a few more foundations, so how do we know this is the affluent neighborhood? Mosaic floors. Sitting out in the middle of this site are some beautiful mosaics, much the way they were 2000 years ago.
Also, the houses are large, around a middle courtyard. The middle-class houses would much smaller, and the “homes” for the slaves more like cells.
As you first enter the residential area, look at the street. Sections of the original stones and gutters are still visible.
The Houses
As you walk from the amphitheater, you will come to the following “houses” (floors) on your left.
Many of the houses have several mosaics, their name coming from the most famous tile.
- The House of the Exedra is in the second block. It has some of the features of a house, but it takes up most of the space. It may have been a school with the teacher’s home in back.
- House of the Neptune Mosaic is in the next (3rd) block. This black and white mosaic includes Neptune and marine creatures.
- The House of the Planetarium is across the street (the only one on your right) from the Neptune house. Some say it is a weekly calendar, not the planets.
- Termas Mayores – the large bath, is two blocks west of the House of Planetarium. You can make out some of the different rooms or pools.
- The House of the Birds is in the next block and is closest to the street you are on. It has 35 mini pictures.
- House of the Rhodian Patio is in the same block, behind the House of Birds. It has several levels (patios.)
- The House of Hylas Abduction is the last house before coming to a wall in the middle of the site. What is this wall? In a perfect example of “they just build on top of the old,” here is a cemetery from the 1900s?
- The Traianeum – is to the right, and then left behind the cemetery. It was an impressive temple sitting at the highest point of the city.
Andalusia Further Afield
La Rábida and Huelva
Just over an hour’s drive west, are these port cities at the mouth of the Odiel and Tinto rivers. La Rábida has several sites that tie in with Seville. From the now buried Palos de la Frontera, in 1492, Columbus set sail on the ocean blue. You can see the excavation of the old port from the car park along Calle Vicente Yáñez Pinzón. It was not open to the public.
Muelle de las Carabelas
The Wharf of the Caravels is home to three replicas of the Niña, the Pinta, and the Santa María. The 70 foot, life-size models give you an idea of the conditions for the 29 sailors on each ship. The museum has a visitor center, and the dock area is a recreation of a medieval quarter. There is a simulation of Guanahani, Christopher Columbus’s first landfall in the new world, and now part of San Salvador.
La Rabida Monastery
This whitewashed Andalusian structure is a Franciscan monastery dating from the 13th-century. It is here where Christopher Columbus would pray to the image of Santa María de la Rábida, Lady of Miracles.
Monumento a los Descubridores
The Monument to the Discoverers is adjacent to the entrance drive to the monastery.
Huelva
As you cross the bridge, the 120-foot statue on your left, Monumento a la Fe Descubridora, is not Columbus. It is a friar symbolizing the faith that guides the discoverers.
Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Cinta chapel.
This white chapel from the 1400s used to sit on a hill outside of town. Now the city surrounds it. Chris Columbus prays here before his voyage, promising to return if the saint brings him back. Andalusia adopts Chris for apparent reasons.
Niebla
On your way to or from Huelva, take the five-minute detour to Niebla, although it has no ties to Columbus.
Castillo de Niebla
Here you can visit the 15th-century medieval castle, whose walls date from Arabic times. See the cavalry grounds and the museum of arms. You can also visit the dungeons.
Roman Bridge
Dating from before the Arabics, just north of town, the road crosses the Rio Tinto. Stop and look at the bridge from either side. It incorporates a Roman bridge still in use.
Additional Andalusia Day Trips
Then many day trips will require a full day.
Cordoba is a 90-minutes drive to the northeast. It is the capital of the province of Cordoba.
It was a famous Roman city, a major Islamic center, and the base for Ferdinand and Isabella.
The bridge at Cordoba.
The White Towns of Andalusia (Pueblos Blancos).
How many are there? It depends on who you ask. There is a minimum of 12, and some say around 20. All of the features whitewashed walls with red or brown roofs of tile. They have narrow alleyways, few streets for vehicles, lookouts, and charming town squares.
Some of the more well known are:
Rhonda
Many people recognize its bridge but do not realize it is one of the White Towns. It is less than two hours each way from Seville.
Setenil de las Bodegas.
Several houses use the rock hillside for walls or a roof.
Zahara de la Sierra
The views from the Tower of Tribute are incredible. But they are beautiful from the car park for the castle as well.
Arcos de la Frontera
This Andalusia town offers breath-taking views you can easily access from a vehicle.
Ubrique.
This village is the largest of the White Towns and tends to be a little more touristy. It sits in a valley.
Villaluenga del Rosario
On the road from Rhonda to Ubrique is this village, the highest of the White Towns.
Andalusia Summary.
As always, this is not everything there is to see and do, but it’s a great start.
When many people think of Spain, they conjure up images from Andalusia. That does not mean the rest of Spain is not worth seeing. It means Andalusia has a great marketing department.
Did I inspire you to put Andalusia on the should-see list?
Read more about Seville.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.