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July 11, 2021 – Serifos Greece.

THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.


WHERE TO?                       TASTE.                        SEE.


Colorful flowers stand out against a white background.

Three years ago this week, I was on Serifos island, hidden in the Cycladic Islands of the Aegean.

I was there for the wedding of a member of my adopted Greek family.

Seri-what? Seri-where?

I knew of the island, even approximately where it was. Go to Naxos and turn right.

But I did not know much “about” the island.

Several Greek people I asked said “no one goes there”, or “there’s nothing there”.

So I did a little more digging. Was the bride from there? No.

Was this where they filmed Mama Mia? No.

We’re going to the chapel, and we’re going to…

Why were we moving the wedding, wedding party, and guests three hours from Athens?

So I began investigating. It did not completely prepare me for what I found.

 

Why Visit Serifos?

It turns out people do go there, predominantly other Greeks. With so many islands to choose from, why here?

Upon arrival by ferry (there is no airport), it began to make sense.

 

Visit Serifos’ Town.

Livadi (Port).

There is nothing “special” about the port area of Livadi. It has the same services as most Greek island ports, cafes, car rentals, and inexpensive accommodations. And yet, there is a certain excitement with your arrival.

Livadi is the lower (port) area of Serifos’s main town.

Take a walk along the Livadi harbor in the early morning or before sunset.

Start your day with a coffee by the sea.

In many places, the town is only two blocks deep. Streets are oneway, and there are no sidewalks.

A fishing boat at Livadi Bay in Serifos Island, Greece

Paralia Livadi.

Probably the most popular beach on the island as it is right there. Running along the front street, there are nearby cafes with food, drinks, and restrooms.

Livadi Beach.

 

Chora (Upper Town).

Many consider this one of the most picturesque capitals in the Cyclades.

The Chora (Upper Town) of Serifos.

Clinging to the hillside, the Chora offers views as impressive as other Cycladic islands.

Church of Agios Konstantinos.

Sitting close to the top of the Upper Town, this traditional Greek church is more than 750 feet above sea level. You can also see a few remains of the old Venetian castle (CAETPO.)  It dates from the 1400s.

The church of Agios Constantinos.

Windmills.

There have been windmills in the Aegean since the 12th century A.D. These are part of a boutique hotel.

Windmills were especially popular in the Cycladic Islands due to constant breezes.

Serifos Archaeological Collection.

The island’s small archaeological museum is on the Square of the Windmills.

Archeological Collection.

Church of Agios Athanasios.

Lending its name to the 17th-century square in front of it, the church dominates the square.

Square and St Evangelistria. The 1904 Town Hall is to the right of the church.

Church of Evangelistria.

Sitting on the central square of the Kato Chora neighborhood, this 1907 church is not white.

The Church of Evangelistria.

Serifos Folklore Museum.

This museum, housed in a 100-year-old mansion, shows homelife in old Serifos.

The Serifos Folklore museum.

Memorial of the Fallen.

Near the Folklore museum, next to the chapel of St Antonios, is this memorial. The white marble monument lists the names of 36 locals lost in wars up until 1935. The white plaque to the right lists the three fallen soldiers from WWII.

The memorial is in a tree-covered area.

 Although there are no UNESCO sites to see, the Chora is a great place to explore. Take part of a day to lose yourself.

 

Visit Serifos Outside of Town.

Heading south out of Livadi:

Cape Spathi Lighthouse.

Dating from circa 1900, this stone building is still in operation. You can walk to the site. However, the building is private.

The Lighthouse in Serifos, and the island of Sifnos behind.

Paralia Vagia.

This beach on the southwest coast has a sandy, rocky mix. You can get close to the beach by car. There is a snack bar nearby.

Paralia Vagia.

Koutalas Beach.

Originally a miner’s village, today, the area has guest houses. The beach, to me, always seems less crowded, and you can see remnants of the mining infrastructure.

Koutalas Beach and village.

Ormos Koutala.

Since ancient times (circa 6th century B.C.), mining has been going on, with copper and iron being the main metals. Koutala was the original center of mining. Later operations would move to Megalo Livadi on the west coast.

On the southwest side of the bay are the remains of a loading crane from mining days.

Remains of the Koutalas mine and its loading bridge.
The mining remains at Ormos Koutala.

Psaropyrgos, (Sofa of the Cyclops).

This structure is from the Hellenistic (200 B.C.) or possibly an earlier period. 

The structure looks like a sofa from below.

The remains of several structures sit on a ledge above the road. The dry-stack construction is in excellent condition considering its age.

Ruins at the Sofa of the Cyclops.

With no excavations in this area, there are many legends. One that the Cyclops used to sit there looking for victims. Another that it was an entrance to the Cyclop’s cave, which is further down the hill. For safety reasons, the cave is no longer accessible.

View of Megalo Livadi from the Cyclops’ Sofa.

Whatever it was, it still offers incredible views of the western end of the island.

 

Megalo Livadi.

This village on the west end of the island was a thriving town in the early 1900s. Today, there are only a few remnants of this time.

The town and bay of Megalo Livadi.

Open-Air Mining Museum.

The remains of a loading assembly and several ore cars are visible in this area west of the town.

The term museum might be a bit of an exaggeration.

Aspros Pirgos (White Tower.)

One of possibly four on the island, its construction is from the fourth century B.C. Today, the remains only stand 16 feet high.

Precut stones often became building materials for later structures.

Panagia.

This small, hillside pedestrian town is a charming stop on an around-the-island drive. The highlight of the town is The church of Panagia.

The shade of Panagia is especially nice in the afternoon.

Holy Monastery of Taxiarches.

This men’s monastery, dating from 1572, is close to Galani village. It honors the Archangels Michael and Gabriel, the patron saints of Serifos.

The Holy Monastery of Taxiarches.
The monastery’s chapel. Visit Serifos churches.

Panagia Skopiani.

This east coast church is between Galani and Livadi, offering beautiful views. This was the setting for the wedding.

The Church of Panagia Skopiani.
Mamma Mia, look at all those steps.

Paralia Agios Sostis.

This pebble beach is approximately a 10-minutes drive east from the port.

Paralia (beach of) Agios Sostis.

Paralia Lia.

South of Agios Sostis beach is this secluded beach, popular with naturalists.

Paralia Lia is a very natural beach (clothing or textile optional).

Visit Serifos Summary.

So people do come here, and there are things to do.

There is a small winery on the island that, in my opinion, can only improve. Good wine is part of Greece’s heritage.

There is some sightseeing and walking paths for early morning or strolls at dusk.

There are beaches, that while somewhat rocky, offer soothing blue water to cool off in.

There’s the local food and the small but hospitable population that makes you feel welcome.

If Greeks gather, there is going to be food and dancing. The beach setting doesn’t suck.

And if you’re lucky, maybe you will get to go to a wedding.

 

Would you please scroll down to the Hey Explorer, what are your thoughts?” section below?

Then, please comment or tell me your thoughts on: 

“What would you do on Serifos? 

 

Would you mind helping me spread the news by rating, commenting, and sharing this blog below? – THANKS!

 

See the World” Continued on Page T3.           Taste the World” Continued on T11.

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