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July 11, 2021 – Serifos Greece.

July 11, 2021 by Thom

THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.


WHERE TO?                       TASTE.                        SEE.


Visit Serifos and check out the Mediterranean colors.
Colorful flowers stand out against a white background.

Three years ago this week, I was on Serifos island, hidden in the Cycladic Islands of the Aegean.

I was there for the wedding of a member of my adopted Greek family.

Seri-what? Seri-where?

I knew of the island, even approximately where it was. Go to Naxos and turn right.

But I did not know much “about” the island.

Several Greek people I asked said “no one goes there”, or “there’s nothing there”.

So I did a little more digging. Was the bride from there? No.

Was this where they filmed Mama Mia? No.

See all the white churches of Serifos.
We’re going to the chapel, and we’re going to…

Why were we moving the wedding, wedding party, and guests three hours from Athens?

So I began investigating. It did not completely prepare me for what I found.

 

Why Visit Serifos?

It turns out people do go there, predominantly other Greeks. With so many islands to choose from, why here?

Upon arrival by ferry (there is no airport), it began to make sense.

 

Visit Serifos’ Town.

Livadi (Port).

There is nothing “special” about the port area of Livadi. It has the same services as most Greek island ports, cafes, car rentals, and inexpensive accommodations. And yet, there is a certain excitement with your arrival.

The gateway to Serifos as you can only get here by boat.
Livadi is the lower (port) area of Serifos’s main town.

Take a walk along the Livadi harbor in the early morning or before sunset.

Sit and see Serifos waking up.
Start your day with a coffee by the sea.

In many places, the town is only two blocks deep. Streets are oneway, and there are no sidewalks.

As you will see, Serifos has a laid back pace.
A fishing boat at Livadi Bay in Serifos Island, Greece

Paralia Livadi.

Probably the most popular beach on the island as it is right there. Running along the front street, there are nearby cafes with food, drinks, and restrooms.

Location, location, location.
Livadi Beach.

 

Chora (Upper Town).

Many consider this one of the most picturesque capitals in the Cyclades.

As you will see, Serifos is not a flat island.
The Chora (Upper Town) of Serifos.

Clinging to the hillside, the Chora offers views as impressive as other Cycladic islands.

Church of Agios Konstantinos.

Sitting close to the top of the Upper Town, this traditional Greek church is more than 750 feet above sea level. You can also see a few remains of the old Venetian castle (CAETPO.)  It dates from the 1400s.

The views rival those in Santorini.
The church of Agios Constantinos.

Windmills.

There have been windmills in the Aegean since the 12th century A.D. These are part of a boutique hotel.

Serifos can be proud they still have a few left.
Windmills were especially popular in the Cycladic Islands due to constant breezes.

Serifos Archaeological Collection.

The island’s small archaeological museum is on the Square of the Windmills.

Currently, this is the largest collection of artifacts from the island.
Archeological Collection.

Church of Agios Athanasios.

Lending its name to the 17th-century square in front of it, the church dominates the square.

The church and town hall circle the square.
Square and St Evangelistria. The 1904 Town Hall is to the right of the church.

Church of Evangelistria.

Sitting on the central square of the Kato Chora neighborhood, this 1907 church is not white.

In a sea of white buildings, this pastel church stands out.
The Church of Evangelistria.

Serifos Folklore Museum.

This museum, housed in a 100-year-old mansion, shows homelife in old Serifos.

In the summer, they do performances at the small theater behind the museum.
The Serifos Folklore museum.

Memorial of the Fallen.

Near the Folklore museum, next to the chapel of St Antonios, is this memorial. The white marble monument lists the names of 36 locals lost in wars up until 1935. The white plaque to the right lists the three fallen soldiers from WWII.

The Greeks are very good at remembering their dead.
The memorial is in a tree-covered area.

 Although there are no UNESCO sites to see, the Chora is a great place to explore. Take part of a day to lose yourself.

 

Visit Serifos Outside of Town.

Heading south out of Livadi:

Cape Spathi Lighthouse.

Dating from circa 1900, this stone building is still in operation. You can walk to the site. However, the building is private.

There has been a light here for over a century.
The Lighthouse in Serifos, and the island of Sifnos behind.

Paralia Vagia.

This beach on the southwest coast has a sandy, rocky mix. You can get close to the beach by car. There is a snack bar nearby.

Water shoes are a great idea for beaches on Serifos.
Paralia Vagia.

Koutalas Beach.

Originally a miner’s village, today, the area has guest houses. The beach, to me, always seems less crowded, and you can see remnants of the mining infrastructure.

The beach gets locals and guests in the small bed and breakfasts.
Koutalas Beach and village.

Ormos Koutala.

Since ancient times (circa 6th century B.C.), mining has been going on, with copper and iron being the main metals. Koutala was the original center of mining. Later operations would move to Megalo Livadi on the west coast.

On the southwest side of the bay are the remains of a loading crane from mining days.

The mines are not accessible and each year the other remains rust some more.
Remains of the Koutalas mine and its loading bridge.
As you will see, Serifos had a lot of mining.
The mining remains at Ormos Koutala.

Psaropyrgos, (Sofa of the Cyclops).

This structure is from the Hellenistic (200 B.C.) or possibly an earlier period. 

Due to its location, it was for protection far away from the coast.
The structure looks like a sofa from below.

The remains of several structures sit on a ledge above the road. The dry-stack construction is in excellent condition considering its age.

There are several structures indicating a group of people.
Ruins at the Sofa of the Cyclops.

With no excavations in this area, there are many legends. One that the Cyclops used to sit there looking for victims. Another that it was an entrance to the Cyclop’s cave, which is further down the hill. For safety reasons, the cave is no longer accessible.

The location allows a clear view of the western end of the island.
View of Megalo Livadi from the Cyclops’ Sofa.

Whatever it was, it still offers incredible views of the western end of the island.

 

Megalo Livadi.

This village on the west end of the island was a thriving town in the early 1900s. Today, there are only a few remnants of this time.

Almost 4000 people were living in this are at the turn of the 20th century
The town and bay of Megalo Livadi.

Open-Air Mining Museum.

The remains of a loading assembly and several ore cars are visible in this area west of the town.

But you can wander and see mining relics.
The term museum might be a bit of an exaggeration.

Aspros Pirgos (White Tower.)

One of possibly four on the island, its construction is from the fourth century B.C. Today, the remains only stand 16 feet high.

Little is known about this particular tower.
Precut stones often became building materials for later structures.

Panagia.

This small, hillside pedestrian town is a charming stop on an around-the-island drive. The highlight of the town is The church of Panagia.

The town has many streets with shade from trees, perfect later in the day.

You will see Serifos has several charming villages.
The shade of Panagia is especially nice in the afternoon.

Holy Monastery of Taxiarches.

This men’s monastery, dating from 1572, is close to Galani village. It honors the Archangels Michael and Gabriel, the patron saints of Serifos.

Women are allowed in the monastery these days.
The Holy Monastery of Taxiarches.
You will soon see Serifos as many white churches and chapels as the next island.
The monastery’s chapel. Visit Serifos churches.

Panagia Skopiani.

This east coast church is between Galani and Livadi, offering beautiful views. This was the setting for the wedding.

It is a magical setting.
The Church of Panagia Skopiani.
There is no walking down the aisle for brides in Greece.
Mamma Mia, look at all those steps.

Paralia Agios Sostis.

This pebble beach is approximately a 10-minutes drive east from the port.

The beach is beautiful with its Aegean blue water.
Paralia (beach of) Agios Sostis.

Paralia Lia.

South of Agios Sostis beach is this secluded beach, popular with naturalists.

No suit and no shade can be a tragedy waiting to happen.Visit Serifos beaches
Paralia Lia is a very natural beach (clothing or textile optional).

Visit Serifos Summary.

So people do come here, and there are things to do.

There is a small winery on the island that, in my opinion, can only improve. Good wine is part of Greece’s heritage.

There is some sightseeing and walking paths for early morning or strolls at dusk.

There are beaches, that while somewhat rocky, offer soothing blue water to cool off in.

There’s the local food and the small but hospitable population that makes you feel welcome.

Visit Serifos regardless of the reason.
If Greeks gather, there is going to be food and dancing. The beach setting doesn’t suck.

And if you’re lucky, maybe you will get to go to a wedding.

 

Would you please scroll down to the “Hey Explorer, what are your thoughts?” section below?

Then, please comment or tell me your thoughts on: 

“What would you do on Serifos? 

 

Would you mind helping me spread the news by rating, commenting, and sharing this blog below? – THANKS!

 

“See the World” Continued on Page T3.           “Taste the World” Continued on T11.

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Filed Under: SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION Tagged With: Aegean, Cyclades, Serifos

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Leslie Nagel says

    July 11, 2021 at 9:04 AM

    Those bright blue rooftops! Gorgeous. I think I would….stay in that windmill hotel and then claim a table by the water for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

  2. Beth Will says

    July 11, 2021 at 10:44 AM

    Your love of Greece and its people shines throughout today’s post – beautiful pictures, too!

  3. Michael Bassford says

    July 13, 2021 at 8:59 AM

    If I am not invited to another wonderful wedding as one of only two zenos, I would like to take a few days to explore the beachside tavernas, eat fresh food, watch the parade of people, and do some hiking in the Chora. My camera would find many happy venues.

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