THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Three years ago this week, I was on Serifos island, hidden in the Cycladic Islands of the Aegean.
I was there for the wedding of a member of my adopted Greek family.
Seri-what? Seri-where?
I knew of the island, even approximately where it was. Go to Naxos and turn right.
But I did not know much “about” the island.
Several Greek people I asked said “no one goes there”, or “there’s nothing there”.
So I did a little more digging. Was the bride from there? No.
Was this where they filmed Mama Mia? No.
Why were we moving the wedding, wedding party, and guests three hours from Athens?
So I began investigating. It did not completely prepare me for what I found.
Why Visit Serifos?
It turns out people do go there, predominantly other Greeks. With so many islands to choose from, why here?
Upon arrival by ferry (there is no airport), it began to make sense.
Visit Serifos’ Town.
Livadi (Port).
There is nothing “special” about the port area of Livadi. It has the same services as most Greek island ports, cafes, car rentals, and inexpensive accommodations. And yet, there is a certain excitement with your arrival.
Take a walk along the Livadi harbor in the early morning or before sunset.
In many places, the town is only two blocks deep. Streets are oneway, and there are no sidewalks.
Paralia Livadi.
Probably the most popular beach on the island as it is right there. Running along the front street, there are nearby cafes with food, drinks, and restrooms.
Chora (Upper Town).
Many consider this one of the most picturesque capitals in the Cyclades.
Clinging to the hillside, the Chora offers views as impressive as other Cycladic islands.
Church of Agios Konstantinos.
Sitting close to the top of the Upper Town, this traditional Greek church is more than 750 feet above sea level. You can also see a few remains of the old Venetian castle (CAETPO.) It dates from the 1400s.
Windmills.
There have been windmills in the Aegean since the 12th century A.D. These are part of a boutique hotel.
Serifos Archaeological Collection.
The island’s small archaeological museum is on the Square of the Windmills.
Church of Agios Athanasios.
Lending its name to the 17th-century square in front of it, the church dominates the square.
Church of Evangelistria.
Sitting on the central square of the Kato Chora neighborhood, this 1907 church is not white.
Serifos Folklore Museum.
This museum, housed in a 100-year-old mansion, shows homelife in old Serifos.
Memorial of the Fallen.
Near the Folklore museum, next to the chapel of St Antonios, is this memorial. The white marble monument lists the names of 36 locals lost in wars up until 1935. The white plaque to the right lists the three fallen soldiers from WWII.
Although there are no UNESCO sites to see, the Chora is a great place to explore. Take part of a day to lose yourself.
Visit Serifos Outside of Town.
Heading south out of Livadi:
Cape Spathi Lighthouse.
Dating from circa 1900, this stone building is still in operation. You can walk to the site. However, the building is private.
Paralia Vagia.
This beach on the southwest coast has a sandy, rocky mix. You can get close to the beach by car. There is a snack bar nearby.
Koutalas Beach.
Originally a miner’s village, today, the area has guest houses. The beach, to me, always seems less crowded, and you can see remnants of the mining infrastructure.
Ormos Koutala.
Since ancient times (circa 6th century B.C.), mining has been going on, with copper and iron being the main metals. Koutala was the original center of mining. Later operations would move to Megalo Livadi on the west coast.
On the southwest side of the bay are the remains of a loading crane from mining days.
Psaropyrgos, (Sofa of the Cyclops).
This structure is from the Hellenistic (200 B.C.) or possibly an earlier period.
The remains of several structures sit on a ledge above the road. The dry-stack construction is in excellent condition considering its age.
With no excavations in this area, there are many legends. One that the Cyclops used to sit there looking for victims. Another that it was an entrance to the Cyclop’s cave, which is further down the hill. For safety reasons, the cave is no longer accessible.
Whatever it was, it still offers incredible views of the western end of the island.
Megalo Livadi.
This village on the west end of the island was a thriving town in the early 1900s. Today, there are only a few remnants of this time.
Open-Air Mining Museum.
The remains of a loading assembly and several ore cars are visible in this area west of the town.
Aspros Pirgos (White Tower.)
One of possibly four on the island, its construction is from the fourth century B.C. Today, the remains only stand 16 feet high.
Panagia.
This small, hillside pedestrian town is a charming stop on an around-the-island drive. The highlight of the town is The church of Panagia.
Holy Monastery of Taxiarches.
This men’s monastery, dating from 1572, is close to Galani village. It honors the Archangels Michael and Gabriel, the patron saints of Serifos.
Panagia Skopiani.
This east coast church is between Galani and Livadi, offering beautiful views. This was the setting for the wedding.
Paralia Agios Sostis.
This pebble beach is approximately a 10-minutes drive east from the port.
Paralia Lia.
South of Agios Sostis beach is this secluded beach, popular with naturalists.
Visit Serifos Summary.
So people do come here, and there are things to do.
There is a small winery on the island that, in my opinion, can only improve. Good wine is part of Greece’s heritage.
There is some sightseeing and walking paths for early morning or strolls at dusk.
There are beaches, that while somewhat rocky, offer soothing blue water to cool off in.
There’s the local food and the small but hospitable population that makes you feel welcome.
And if you’re lucky, maybe you will get to go to a wedding.
Would you please scroll down to the “Hey Explorer, what are your thoughts?” section below?
Then, please comment or tell me your thoughts on:
“What would you do on Serifos?
Would you mind helping me spread the news by rating, commenting, and sharing this blog below? – THANKS!
“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.
Leslie Nagel says
Those bright blue rooftops! Gorgeous. I think I would….stay in that windmill hotel and then claim a table by the water for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Beth Will says
Your love of Greece and its people shines throughout today’s post – beautiful pictures, too!
Michael Bassford says
If I am not invited to another wonderful wedding as one of only two zenos, I would like to take a few days to explore the beachside tavernas, eat fresh food, watch the parade of people, and do some hiking in the Chora. My camera would find many happy venues.