THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
Do You Know the Way to Naxos Greece?
Nax what? So many Americans do not know who, what, or where Naxos is. That’s a mixed blessing. For all the Greeks and myself, that means fewer tourists. On the flip side, it means fewer travelers visit Naxos, an enchanting island.
I don’t know where it is.
You do now. It’s the largest islands in the Cyclades. Its larger than Mykonos, thirty miles north, or Santorini about 60 miles to the south.
Well, it’s impossible to get there.
There are commercial flights several times a day and in the summer, ferries connect to more than ten other islands. You cannot take a boat from Mykonos to Santorini without a stop in Naxos. You can visit Naxos very easily.
So why don’t people know about it? I’m not sure.
It has some small interesting archeological sites. And the cuisine, mama mia. Those two alone are enough reasons to visit Naxos.
Many Greek islands have rocky beaches with pebbles instead of sand. Naxos has those, but they also have white sand beaches, several just outside of town.
There is nightlife for those who need to shake their groove thing after a day of discovery.
It’s a mystery why more non-Greeks do not visit Naxos.
Cutting Up the Island.
The island is too big to see in a day unless you drive without stopping once. Please don’t do that anywhere, EVER! I find it is best to divide the island into what I call the north and the south. It is a mountainous island, so cutting it right down the middle is not practical, but you will get the idea.
Both sections can be a busy half day exploration, or you can easily stretch either into a full day program. In this article, let’s look at the north.
Northward.
Departing from town, you can enjoy a lovely drive through rolling landscapes of brown rocky mountains separated by fertile green valleys.
Eggares Olive Oil Museum
Approximately 15 minutes from Naxos Town is the small village of Eggares. Here, an old mill is now a delightful mini museum to the olive.
One part of the museum has tools they use in harvesting olives as well as a press for removing the oil. The other part is a gift shop/tasting room where you can sample an array of olive products. Taste the different grades of olive oil, try the tapenades, jam, and other delicious items. There are also skin care items with olive oil for sale.
Coast Road
From Eggares it is just under 20 miles to the town of Apollonas at the north end of the island. The highway offers incredible views of the coast for a majority of the drive. The pavement is in good shape for “Greek Island roads.”
Although curvy, it is not a series of constant switchbacks like on some islands. There is a village here and there, but several you will not realize were villages until after you pass through them.
The views out over the beautiful Aegean are the main attraction. On a clear day, you can see across to Mykonos and Delos to the north. Also, look out for goats. Either alone or in flocks, this is a working agricultural road, as are most of the streets on the Cyclades.
Archaic Marble Quarry/ Statue of Dionysos
Coming around a wide U-curve to the right, you will see the little fishing village of Apollonas below you to the left. Immediately, start looking for a brown sign on your right with yellow and white lettering. It is not facing you but is parallel to the road. (A pet peeve I have with the Greek Ministry of Antiquities) Give me some warning!!!. I should be happy; this site has a sign.
On the road sign, it says Archaic Marble Quarry/ Statue of Dionysos. On maps and in guides it may be labeled as the Kouros of Apollonas, or the Colossus of Dionysus. For many years, it was a statue of Apollo. Then, in 1932, someone correctly identifies it.
The statue is just over 35 feet tall (or long, as it is lying down.) The marble is light grey Naxian, and you can see more of it in the quarry that surrounds it. The guestimated weight is around 80 tons. This kouros, a type of statue, dates from the Archaic period, somewhere between the seventh and sixth centuries BC.
It is an excellent glimpse into how they were carving 8000+ years ago.
Apollonas
This sleepy little fishing village has one main road. One grocery, six or seven seafood tavernas are sitting on the main street and very few T-shirt shops. The cafes do not have freezers. What they serve is fresh. This village could certainly be an option for a break.
NOTE: In the summer, between 11 am and 1:00ish, 8 million (I was there counting) tour buses descend. They are there for a quick look at the statue and lunch. Plan to be here before or after that time.
Road to Koronida
From Apollonas, the highway turns inland and winds through several valleys before starting the climb towards Koronida. I think the approach from this direction is the most scenic.
Once again, be on the lookout for renegade goats as many believe they own the road and you are merely a trespasser. As the road winds higher, you start to get a glimpse of the village of Koronida, clinging to the side of the hill.
Koronida Village. (Komiaki)
At an altitude of more than 2100 feet, the village certainly has several incredible views. Entering the town, the first sight you see is the dazzling white Byzantine church of Agios Georgios. The church hosts a small ecclesiastical museum. The road wraps around the church as it climbs into the village.
Down the slope from Agios Georgios is a mysterious vaulted Mycenaean tomb dating from the 15th century B.C. Mysterious as they do not know whose tomb it is. Also, it is a considerable distance from the only known Mycenaean settlement, the one in Chora.
A hiking path from the village can take you closer for a look. Look for the brown sign, parallel to the road, a few hundred feet beyond Ag Georgios going towards town. (Where the street turns left. The sign reads Domed Mycenaean tomb.)
What is the leading tourist site? There isn’t, and that’s what attracts me. Yes, tour buses do stop for those wishing to climb to the town square, but they are usually there and gone in a short time. This is another reason to visit Naxos.
Note: from the main road, the town is not that scenic. You want to find a place to park and climb up the whitewashed steps into the village. Here you will see the traditional architecture with even old, more conventional stone huts here and there.
You may also come across the wheat threshing floors and cisterns where they gather water still. Stop in one of the tavernas or cafes, to sample local food items, especially the domestic sheep and goat cheeses, kefalotyri, xynomizithra, and xinotyro. Most of the local wine never leaves the village. When in Koronida…
Road to Koronos.
When you think all the best scenery is behind you, you head on to Koronos. It only takes about 15-minutes to cover the approximately seven miles, but mother nature (with a little help from man) packs some pretty views into that stretch.
Climbing higher after leaving Koronidas, you will see the expected small white chapels that dot the hills. If you need gas, you will pass one of the few gas stations on this route. The station closes for two hours mid-afternoon. Perhaps so he can tend to the small private winery on the side of the station. Have the camera ready as there will be some great views of Koronidas behind you.
Once you pass the radio towers if the view is clear, you can see the small uninhabited Nikasiai islands. These are a destination for day boat trips. Further out are Donousa Island and Amorgos.
Before you know it, you are in the one lane village of Skado. One lane, but two-way traffic. This section can be exciting, especially if the oncoming traffic is a tour bus.
As you wind your way out of Skado, you can already catch a glimpse of Koronos, the next hillside town.
Koronos
This traditional village, dating to 1200 A.D. straddles two hills with small vineyards in between. It also has numerous steps connecting the different neighborhoods. Many of the communities have a central square, complete with traditional water fountains and one has a nearby well. The village also has numerous steps.
There are a couple of traditional tavernas serving their cheeses and wine. They all seem to be at the bottom of the village. Reaching them is no problem as the town has numerous steps. The problem comes after maybe a little too much wine. Did I mention the steps yet?
If you want to visit, come by car. The parking areas are at least a little further down the hill than the bus stop. For the wine, cheese, and Greek hospitality, it is worth the climb. This would also be another reason to visit Naxos.
Read more about Naxos Cuisine.
Kinidaros
Kinidaros is close to the middle of the island. Due to pirate raids along the coast in the 15th century, much of the population found inland real estate.
Along the way, you will see the local marble quarries in the hillside. Marble extraction has been going on here since ancient times.
The town is quaint, and although there is some beautiful architecture, there is none that sets it apart.
So why mention it? Because in the center of town there is an unusual butcher shop. It’s not the largest or best one in Greece. There are larger ones in Naxos Town. Also, I have never purchased any raw meat here to take away. So why do I like it? Because it also serves as a taverna and they grill the meats right there in front of you.
You do not want to fill up on starters. Order several types of meat and sausage to share and don’t forget the local wine. Thank goodness it’s not down several flights of stairs. Pretty sure I would not make it back up. Parking on the main street can be a challenge, but a walk will be necessary afterward.
Maybe there is something in the air, but when you first enter the village (coming from Koronos), there is a small bakery on the left-hand side. It’s not fancy or necessarily the best on Naxos, but I cannot drive by without getting some cookies for later.
Kouros at Melanes.
Just over three miles from Kinidaros (heading to Naxos Town) is the Kouros at Melanes. It is closer to the village of Mili than Melanes. The good news, there is a sign perpendicular to the main road so you can see the turn off before you go flying past it. The not so good news is that it lists the site as Flerio Archaic Marble Quarry and Ancient Sanctuary. A quick left and a few minutes later you reach gravel road and the parking area. The information office and sanctuary are behind you.
The sanctuary is nothing more than a few foundations to walls. It is back up the driveway, to the right and at the top of the hill. If you must see it, take an active imagination.
More good news, the Kouros of Faranghi and the Kouros of Flerio are easy to reach on a semi-paved lane with honest to goodness signage. And they are not only in Greek.
The not so great news, there’s not a lot to see. The Kouros of Flerio is around 15 feet long (it is lying down) is unfinished and broken. If you saw the Kouros of Dionysos earlier in the day, this is going to be underwhelming. The second Kouros is about the same.
On the map by the parking area, it indicates an information office and the exit of an ancient aqueduct. It appears that they are easy to reach on foot. The information office is reachable, as long as you understand you have to walk up the drive to reach the trailhead to it. Not clear on the map. Before you set off, I have never found it to be open.
The aqueduct, don’t even try. The trail is not marked, may or may not go through peoples yards and after numerous attempts, I still have not found it hiking from the sanctuary site.
However, after leaving the site, your luck will improve. Less than a mile after rejoining the main road towards Mili, there is a somewhat sharp turn to the left. Immediately look for the red sign on the left. As usual, there is no real area to pull completely off the road. A path with stone steps will take you down to the covered area where you will see what looks like a small sewer channel.
It’s an excellent workout for the legs. Personally, I would go to this area for hiking rather than to see these few sites.
From here, it is less than 30-minutes drive back to Hora (Chora, Naxos Town.) If you did this whole route, without stopping, it would take approximately 2 1/2 hours. So it can be a half day program with stops. Add a meal and a little hiking, and it can fill a good part of a day.
In a later post, we can look at the south part of the island. But isn’t this enough reason to visit Naxos?
To learn more about Naxos, Glick Here.
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“See Mykonos” Continued on Page T3 “Taste Normandy France” Continued on T11