THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Seville (Sevilla,) Spain is the capital of Andalusia and was the gateway to the new world. It has Moorish architecture, Flamenco dancing, and a strong tie with Christopher Columbus. Where does this cornucopia of culture come from?
Ancient History.
Who were the first people to live in present-day Seville is unclear. But it appears to be the same people who were first to Southern France and Italy, the Phoenicians (Greeks.)
The Carthaginians attack circa 500 B.C., taking the area for themselves.
The Battle of Ilipa during the Second Punic War (circa 206 B.C.) ends with the Roman general Scipio defeating the Carthaginians and claiming the area for Rome. The Romans will hold on to the city for around 700 years.
Circa 5th-century A.D., along come the Vandals, Suebi, and Visigoths, Germanic people from the north. They will hold onto the area for approximately 300 years.
Rise of the Caliphate.
With the death of Muhammad in 632 A.D., the Islams set up an Islamic state they call a caliphate. The first is Rashidun, and they choose, through Islamic democracy, four Caliphs to run it.
The area stretches from today’s Iran to the Mediterranian coast of Lybia. It includes Iraq, Syra, Lebanon, Israel, Saudia Arabia, Oman, Yemen, and northern Egypt.
They almost immediately disagree. By 661, after a revolt, a few assassinations they are in the First Muslim Civil War. Out of this comes the second caliphate, the Umayyad.
Circa 712 A.D., they cross into Southern Spain. In less than forty years, they will control Portugal and Spain except for three kingdoms in the northwest. They set up a sub-capital in Cordoba. They rename Spain Al-Andalus.
The Reconquista.
The reconquest of Spain and Portugal from the Moors began almost the same time the Moors began invading.
The entire Reconquista will take approximately 780 years.
The Caliph of Cordova separates from the Caliphs of Egypt.
Many think these were religious wars, but that’s not 100% true. During the Arab occupation, Christians and Jews can practice their faiths.
Trouble From the North.
By 1085, the Kingdom of Leon is on its sixth Alfonso. He takes Toledo, the capital of the Castile–La Mancha region, in the middle of Spain.
Circa 1147, another Berber Muslim movement takes over the Almoravids empire in North Africa. By 1172, The Almohad Caliphate is now in charge of all Muslim Iberia (Spain). They make their capital in Seville.
While the Moors are fighting the Moors, the Kingdoms of Castile, Navarre, and Aragon are making plans. Circa 1212, they defeat the Almohad. They regain Cordova by 1236 and Seville twelve years later.
Sevilla of Castile.
King Ferdinand III of Castile constructs many public buildings in the Mudejar style. This form incorporates Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture with Muslim techniques. Some Moorish buildings they convert into Catholic structures.
They take the Moors’ Palace as their Castilian royal residence. Circa 1350, they tear down much of the original palace to build the Alcazar.
The Not-So Christianly Days of Sevilla.
1391 a pogrom, takes place in Seville, probably by the orders of Archdeacon Ferrant Martínez. They seize the synagogues and convert them into churches.
The church confiscates the Jewish quarter (Santa Cruz) and kills many Jews who they feel are not converting to Christianity.
Ferdinand and Isabella – 1469.
Ferdinand II of Aragon marries Isabella I of Castile, uniting the two royal lines. They make Madrid the center of their political power.
The first tribunal takes place in Seville almost immediately. The first Auto de Fé, (public displays of penance), takes place in Seville three years later. They burn six people alive in the plaza de San Francisco for the crowd’s amusement.
All Jews must convert to Catholicism or leave Spain. Unfortunately, they do not get out soon enough. The inquisition will go on for three hundred years in various forms. The death count ranges from 3,000 to 300,000.
In 1492, Columbus Sets Sail on his Ocean Blue.
Why is that any importance to landlocked Sevilla?
The port of Seville is 50 miles up the Guadalquivir river. Remember, we said this was an essential river to the former capital of Cordoba? That means the river has numerous fortifications making Seville a well-defended port to receive the spoils from the Americas.
Also, only ships departing from Seville can trade in the Spanish Colonies. So foreign ships have to pay coming and going in addition to the king’s cut. The Spanish call this a Monopolio. Seville’s population tops more than a hundred thousand people.
The Gold Begins to Tarnish.
By the late 16th century, the Dutch, British, French, and others have colonies in the Americas. They no longer rely on Spain for everything.
The colonies can produce many of their needs reducing the need for imports from Spain.
Circa 1649, The Great Plague of Sevilla, arrives on ships. Excessive flooding follows it, and more than 150,000 people die in the Seville area.
Twenty-five years later, another plague, in hand with poor harvests, knocks out another chunk of the population. By 1700, Seville’s part on the international stage is almost over. When boats can no longer reach the port, it goes into a decline.
Circa 1728, Charles III of Spain, seeing his golden goose dying, pumps money into Seville. He promotes Seville’s industries and funds construction of the Royal Tobacco Factory (Real Fábrica de Tabacos.) It will employ 1000 men when it finally opens. Seville is the only city in Spain to make snuff. When cigars become popular, they will hire 700 more men, not women, to make those.
The Guy with the Napoleon Complex.
The 1807 Peninsular War between Napoleon’s empire and Bourbon Spain affects all of Spain. The Spanish fight back, but are no match.
It will not be until 1814 that the French finally retreat. Spain goes through a slow period of rebuilding while the nobles fight over control.
Spanish Civil War.
By 1936, two distinct camps are fighting for control of Spain. On one side are the Republicans, loyal to the currently-elected, left-leaning Second Spanish Republic.
On the other side are the Nationalists, who wish to rule under Falangism. Similar to Socialism, it believes in the need for total authority, hierarchy, and order over society. One of their leaders is General Francisco Franco, who moves up quickly through the ranks. He will rule from 1939 until 1975.
As of the last report, Francisco Franco is still dead.
Sevilla Today.
Spain becomes part of the European community by 1986.
Seville has newer highways, high-speed train connections with Madrid, and a modern airport.
It is the third most popular city in Spain after Madrid and Barcelona.
Should See Sevilla.
The city has 11 districts, and they have a total of 108 neighborhoods. You need several days to explore them all and probably one day just to learn about them.
Today, I will talk about a few of the more important districts and several of their barrios (neighborhoods).
Casco Antiguo.
The old quarter of Seville is in the center of the city on the east bank of the Guadalquivir river. It has twelve neighborhoods and can easily take up a full day or more.
To the North
San Gil.
The Calle Parlamento de Andalucía makes a natural dividing line between San Gil and the Macarena District to the north. Let’s start here.
Arco de la Macarena
It is one of only three city gates remaining from the 12th-century walls.
Wall of Seville.
As you stand facing the front (outside) of Arco de la Macarena, look to your left. Approximately four blocks of wall and towers, dating from the 12-century, stretch to the next gate, the Puerta de Córdoba.
San Julián.
Church of St. Louis of the French
This lovely baroque church dates from 1730. The theatrical interior is worth a visit.
Encarnación-Regina
Metropol Parasol (Las Setas)
The Seville mushroom is a modern structure dating from 2010, and housing several sites. While excavating, they uncover ruins from the Roman and Al-Andalus eras. The building has five levels, the top, Setas Viewpoint, being a magnificent overlook of the city.
Below are remains from the Romans 20 A.D. to the Al-Alucians 1220 A.D. on display behind plexiglass. You can see several parts up close as well as the many layers of the city.
From 1842 – 1973, this was the location of one of the city’s most important markets. Today, the street level contains a new modern market. You will also find the city’s official tourism shop with authentic items for purchase.
Santa Catalina
Convent of Santa Inés
The Santa Inés convent, dating from the 14th century, is still in operation. Would you buy a cookie to support a worthy cause? Many convents sell sweets to raise much of their operating income. Here, try the cortadillo, (a traditional Andalusia sweet,) or (and?) a Magdelena, a lemon zest muffin.
Palacio de las Dueñas
The Palace of the Dukes of Alba still belongs to the House of Alba. Dating the late 15th-century the architecture is Renaissance style with later Gothic and Moorish influences. The palace is a lovely maze of courtyards, passageways, and buildings. The art collection is quite impressive.
Museo.
Chapel of San José
The architectural style is Sevilla Baroque, and it is one of the best examples in the city. Make sure to check out the front facade from a distance.
Seville Museum of Fine Arts
Residing in a convent from circa 1594, the museum dates from 1839. The collection, by Spanish artists, contains paintings and sculptures from the medieval period to the early 1900s.
To the South
El Arenal
This Barrio is home to the three sites making up the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Cathedral, Alcázar and Archivo de Indias in Seville.
Cathedral of Seville.
This 1403 Cathedral is the largest Gothic building in Europe.
The royal chapel holds the remains of Ferdinand III of Castile, his heir Alfonso XI and his heir, Peter. The Cathedral is also the final resting place of Christopher Columbus and his oldest son Diego.
La Giralda
The bell tower of the Cathedral is the former minaret of the 1172 mosque. Standing 343 feet tall and 44 feet wide, you can climb the tower by walking up a series of ramps.
Reales Alcázares de Sevilla (The Alcazar)
There has been a structure here since circa 700 A.D.
In the 1200s, it becomes the residence of the Christian monarchs and receives Gothic and Romanesque elements. Circa 1366, king Pedro I builds the Mudéjar Palace in the Andalusian Mudejar style.
As the royal family still has apartments here, it is Europe’s oldest palace still in use by monarchs.
Archivo General de Indias.
In a 1512 building that began as the merchants’ exchange, the Casa Lonja de Mercaderes now houses valuable documents. These archival documents tell the history of the Spanish Empire’s dealings in the Americas and the Philippines.
The archives include material from the first Conquistadores through to the 1800s. It also consists of the journals of Christopher Columbus.
Non-UNESCO sites Worth Seeing.
Plaza del Triunfo
This plaza is between the Cathedral and the Archives. It contains the Casa de la Provincia, The Diputacion de Sevilla, (the cavalry barracks), and the Alcazar’s Puerta del Leon.
Ayuntamiento de Sevilla (City Hall)
Approximately six-minutes walk north from the Cathedral is the city hall. The original structure dates from 1521, although there have been numerous remodeling projects and additions since then.
Behind it is the Plaza Nueva (new plaza.) The square’s old name was San Francisco. It was here that in 1481, the first Auto-de-fe of the Spanish inquisition took place. It was not the last one in this square.
The brotherhood dates back to 1456 when they would bury the dead. With funding, the monks are able to treat the sick and delay the burials. You can visit the St. George’s chapel with an impressive collection of artworks by Murillo, Pedro Roldán and Valdes Leal. Your admission helps fund the hospital.
Reales Atarazanas
Next to the hospital is the medieval royal shipyard of Seville. They were building and repairing boats here between the 13th and 15th centuries. Finally, restoration is taking place, possibly due to it appearing in the television show, “Game of Thrones“. As of the summer of 2020, it was still not open to the public.
Barrio de Santa Cruz
The Jewish neighborhood is near the Cathedral until the 1391 massacre.
Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla
This small but poignant museum, tells the Jewish history of Seville, up until the massacre. The small collection of surviving artifacts contains documents, books, and costumes. The museum can pre-arrange walking tours of the remaining Jewish sites in English, Spanish or French.
Naval Museum Torre Del Oro
This museum is in a 13th-century defensive tower along the river. The collection includes charts, old maps, nautical instruments, and more.
Royal Tobacco Factory
In 1758, it was the second tobacco factory in Europe, as Spain had a monopoly on new world tobacco. There were over 1000 men making snuff.
Later, the men begin making cigars, but they are not good and the cigar section closes. It reopens two years later with a female workforce, which it retains until the 1940s. It is here in 1820 that Georges Bizet’s Carmen sings “Habanera.”
Circa 1956, they move the cigar production to a smaller location. In 2007, Seville makes its last cigar. They use the original factory as the new home of the University of Seville.
San Telmo Palace
In 1682, it was a university for navigators. Then it had several renters who could not afford the upkeep. A French duke buys it, and later cedes the palace to the local archdiocese. It is a seminary until 1989. Today, it is the seat of the presidency.
Distrito Sur
The South District is to the “south” of the Casco Antiguo and also on the east bank. It was the location of much of the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929.
Plaza de España
The centerpiece of the Ibero-American Exhibition, today it houses many government offices. It also contains the Instituto Geografico Nacional, and the Museo Histórico Militar de Sevilla.
- Costurero de la Reina – Legend (made up stuff we usually cannot prove) is it is the queen’s sewing room. Queen Maria, the wife of King Alfonso XII, would sew here in the sunlight due to her delicate health. It does not work, and by 1878, she dies. The building dates from 1893. Time traveler or fake legend? In the 1800s, it is a watchtower for the guard. Today, it is an information office.
Plaza America
At the south end of the gardens is the Plaza de América, many parts also dating from the exposition.
- Archeological Museum of Seville – includes many artifacts from the nearby Roman city of Italica. It also holds the golden Treasure of El Carambolo, dating from the 8th century B.C.
- Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions – includes lace, embroidery, furniture, tiles, ceramics, and more.
Sevilla Summary
Is this everything to see and do in Seville? Hardly. There is so much more history, and architecture, and Flamenco dancing, and…
What else do you know about Seville? It is the home of Don Miguel de Mañara. He is the aristocrat that inspires the legend of Don Juan.
We know the opera Carmen takes place there. But also Rossini’s The Barber of Seville, Beethoven’s Fidelio, Mozart’s Don Giovanni, The Marriage of Figaro, and others.
Movie fans may recognize the Plaza de España in Star Wars: Attack of the Clones, or Lawrence of Arabia.
Television fans may recognize the Alcázar, the boatyard, and other sites as the cities of Dorne in Game of Thrones.
And who can forget the Rabbit of Seville?
I usually spend two nights giving me approximately two full days to explore. I try to do one neighborhood at a time, and this still never seems like enough time.
What are you waiting for?
Read more about Seville.
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“Did you learn anything about Seville? Is it now on your should-see list?”
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.
The tumultuous history has created an exciting city. I would love to visit the grand Cathedral of Seville and the Alcazar Palace, and experience the cuisine and famous dancing.
The picture of the Seville waterfront is incredibly beautiful. What a history lesson! I agree that the Cathedral is a must-see – so inspiring.
Note: I will have to rewatch the Rabbit of Seville now that you (humorously) mentioned it!
Thom, once again I thank you for the most excellent transport to “another world.” Spain is indeed a place that I’ve never considered visiting until right now. I absolutely love your style of blending humor, history, and useful travel guidance all into one easy to read and understand ‘story.’ I hope you write a book one day. Your unique style is truly a gift.
I’ll have a Magdalena or 4.