THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
New Orleans is a destination all to itself. But what about that Ol Man River flowing along beside it? It is safe to say, New Orleans would not be if it were not for this muddy waterway.
Some call it the Big Muddy. It brought the French from northeast Canada, and later settlers downriver. It was an inland harbor from the Gulf for Spanish, French, British, slaves, and some Pirates of the Caribbean.
At 2,320 miles, the Mississippi is the forth-longest river in the world. Thanks to sediment from up north, it gets longer every year.
Today, it flows through the states of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, and Louisiana.
So it deserves a little attention.
We are not going to cover all 2,000+ miles today, or even the entire length of Louisiana. That’s not to say you should skip the Mississippi in northern Louisiana. If you did that, you would miss several charming river towns like St Francisville. Or Vicksburg and Natchez across the river in Mississippi.
Because there is enough to see, we are going to focus on approximately 70 miles upstream from New Orleans. And also 100 miles down.
Start at the Front Door
Due to modern-day engineering, it’s sometimes hard to believe there’s a river, muddy or otherwise, nearby. Standing in Jackson Square, in the French Quarter, with no water in sight, is the place to start.
This area was the main dock area for arriving ships in the old day. Before there was a levee, paddlewheel steamers would cluster for space along the banks near the square. This area was the front door or living room of the city where people would meet.
Cross Decatur Street and climb the steps. From here you can glimpse the river, but you’re not there yet, This area is Washington Artillery Park. Before walking on to the river, turn around and get a great view of Jackson Square.
Down the steps and over the tracks, you come to a lower levee. At the top of the steps is a paved promenade, they call the moonwalk after a former mayor. Some locals may call it the battery.
Waitin on the Levee
You can turn left if you like walking, however, you cannot reach the naval ships. The only other site is an RTA light rail station.
Put the river on your left and turn right. A short walk brings you to Woldenberg Park. In warm weather, you may hear musicians playing. Depending on the time of day, you may see a real steam-engine paddle boat at its pier. The ship, the Natchez IX, dates from the mid-1970s. Her great grandmother, Natchez VI, went up against the famous Robert E. Lee in the 1870 steamboat race.
It is the only real steamboat operating daily out of New Orleans. There are other tour boats.
You can continue along the walk to Canal Street, where there are hotels, a casino, and an aquarium.
There is also a cruise terminal. Ships depart south for those same Caribbean ports of pirate fame. Overnight paddlewheel boats head upriver, just like they have since 1811.
A Little Muddy History
Knowing why New Orleans is where it’s at, explains many of the things that happen around it.
Circa 1700, the French establish Port Bayou St. Jean, a trading encampment. They also build a small fort, St. Jean (Old Spanish Fort), at the mouth of the bayou. The early settlers try growing wheat in the soggy soil with very little success.
Eighteen years later, the French Governor of the Louisiana Territory establishes La Nouvelle-Orléans, on a patch of high ground. Even then, the location was everything.
It was near the trading route and portage between the Mississippi and Lake Pontchartrain. From the lake, they could reach Biloxi without going 100 miles downriver to the Gulf.
Its location between two sharp curves in the river would allow for protection from Spanish and English groups.
The next “owners” are the Spanish. After a rather extensive fire in 1794 destroys much of the town, they rebuild with brick. Much of what you see today, especially in the French Quarter, are brick buildings from this period. It goes back to the French.
By 1803, Napoleon dumps Louisiana to pay for his revolution. The buyer is the United States. The Louisiana purchase includes all of the Muddy Mississippi.
Louisiana Statehood April 30, 1812
The War of 1812 breaks out between the United States and Britain. New Orleans is incredibly essential as a supply center. By December of 1814, the British are descending on New Orleans in an attempt to cut off the supplies.
England and the U.S. end the war in December of 1814. The news does not reach New Orleans before Jan 8 when the British attack Andrew Jackson’s ragtag army. The Battle of New Orleans does not last long. Andrew Jackson comes out a hero, and the British are out of Louisiana.
New Orleans and the Mississippi will play a significant roll in the Civil War in 1861-65. The Muddy will flow red.
As you can see, the area around New Orleans has some history.
Going Up River
Stretching approximately 70 miles from New Orleans to Baton Rouge, the River Road is a major attraction. Front and center are the plantation homes. Beautiful Greek revival mansions give an air of the peaceful gracious south during the sugar boom of the late 1700s.
What you do not see from the road is the back of the houses where their slaves work and live.
I think it is essential to learn from our history (and others.)
The plantation homes and grounds are a part of our history and are worth a visit.
Baptist Parish
Approximately 36 miles upriver from Nola, this is one of the few Creole-style homes remaining. It is a colorful property with excellent detail. The property is a National Historic Landmark and includes a unique antique collection. Purchase tickets in advance.
St. John the Baptist Parish
A few miles upstream, but on the other side of the Muddy, is Evergreen Plantation. The main house dates from circa 1790. Why visit? The plantation has 37 buildings remaining, (that’s a record), and they are on the National Register of Historic Places. They have 22 slave cabins, the highest in the area. Evergreen shares the country’s highest historic designation along with Gettysburg and Mount Vernon. AND, it is still a privately-owned, working sugar cane plantation. Reservations are a good idea.
A mile upriver from Evergreen is the Whitney Plantation. This plantation museum also focuses on the lives of the enslaved people. Advance purchase of tickets is a great idea.
The property is an additional eight miles upriver. It is significant for its 1805 Créole-style big house. It has several surviving outbuildings, two of which are slave cabins.
James Parish
Four miles upriver from Laura is the poster child for Louisiana plantation homes. This famous sugar plantation has more than 200 years of history. There are five areas to explore, including the big house. They do not sell tickets in advance or make reservations.
Closer to Baton Rouge
Ascension Parish
Another 20 miles upriver, and on the other side, Houmas House, is another grande Greek Revival. The house, more than 250 years old, and its gardens are extra popular with brides. The property has several dining rooms and overnight accommodations. Baton Rouge is only 30 more miles upriver. There are great things to see there as well.
And there are other plantation homes open to the public. Nottoway (Iberville Parish) and Destrehan (St. Charles Parish) are popular with ghost fans.
Is there anything else besides plantations?
There is nature. John James Audubon was a fan of the state’s natural beauty, and several of his famous bird studies are from here. There is also a collection of golf courses that support the Audubon Society on what they call the Audubon Golf Trail. Several are between New Orleans and Baton Rouge.
Muddy River Towns
There are several villages along or near the Muddy where life has not changed that much. To get a real look into Cajun living, visit Sorrento, which has a Cajun area.
Civil War
There is not much remaining from the Civil War or earlier battles dut to the use of wood in construction. Near Donaldsonville is a marker for Fort Butler. The inscription and a few monuments are all that remain.
Many of the remaining sites in Louisiana are north of Baton Rouge, heading towards Shreveport.
Confederate Memorial Hall Museum (#929 Camp St) – is in New Orleans. Dating from 1891, it is the oldest museum in Louisiana and houses the second-largest collection of Confederate memorabilia.
To do the upriver area justice, you need a minimum of two days.
Down The Mississippi River to…
The “Delta” region, which includes New Orleans, probably dates back to around 2200 BC. This period is when the Mississippi River changes direction and deposits sediment from up north. That’s where the muddy nickname originates.
No more than 20-minutes drive from Jackson Square are the few remains of Chalmette Battlefield. Here is the site of the Battle of New Orleans in 1815. Part of the National Park Foundation Jean Lafitte Historical Park, there is a visitor center, National Cemetery, and more. Standing on the boat pier, you can see downtown New Orleans and how close the British were.
Barataria Preserve – is also part of the Jean Lafitte National Park. Approximately 35 minutes south of the city. It contains wetlands, boat tours, and nature trails.
There are a few plantation homes, but most are now wedding event spaces.
A Day Along the Muddy Mississippi.
There is no doubt the Mississippi looks different today than when Mark Twain saw it.
Unfortunately, large factories and refineries are running the length of the river. Look past them for the lure of days past.
You owe it to yourself to spend at least a day on the Big Muddy.
To read more on Louisiana, click here.
“See the World” Continued on Page T3 “Taste the World” Continued on T11
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