Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
THE GOLDEN AGE
SHOULD SEE VENICE
NEARBY VENICE
Venice draws people from all over the world. Why? Is it the canals? The palaces and churches fighting for space? Is it the story of a grand lady holding on to her crumbling kingdom? It is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Is it all of the above, or something completely different?
The city is the capital of Italy’s Veneto region. It sits on a group of 118 small islands. Canals divide them, and over 400 bridges link them together. They are all in the shallow Venetian Lagoon.
Ancient Venice
There is not much (if any) ancient history in the Venice area. The lagoon was a swampy area, and getting to the islands was difficult. Indeed, the Greeks were present and later the Romans. Nearby, Padua and Verona have the remains that prove that.
But the Venetian lagoon and its swampy surroundings remain mainly untouched except by people fishing.
Not So Ancient
The date of the founding of Venice is blurry, as there is no written account. Historians pretty much agree on the reason for its creation. Refugees from nearby Roman cities such as Altino, Padua, Treviso, and others were fleeing the growing Germanic and Hun invasions.
There is documentation telling us who the twelve founding (apostolic) families of Venice are. They are the ones who elect the first Doge.
Records from circa AD 166–168 indicate Germanic tribes were destroying many Roman towns north of the lagoon. Records show attacks by the Visigoths in the early 5th century. Circa 450 A.D., Attila the Hun, makes his bloody march through the area.
One hundred years later, the Lombards take most of the remaining Eastern Roman Empire. They leave a small strip of coastline in the current Veneto area and the lagoon.
This outpost is the responsibility of Ravenna, 85 miles to the south. But, the only connection is by sea, around the Lombards. In other words, this area goes to the back burner.
The Venetians take charge of their own governing. They begin by building new ports, including one near present-day Piazza Roma and the island of Torcello.
They form a tribuni maiores, (tribune of the people,) giving the ordinary people equal representation. It is the earliest recording of a central governing committee in the lagoon.
Government Goes to the Doges.
The Doge of Venice is the chief magistrate and leader of the Republic of Venice. The Republic of Genoa has one as well, and they rule for life.
In 751, the Lombards conquer most of Ravenna, leaving Venice a lonely Byzantine outpost in the lagoon. With additional attacks on the mainland, more and more Venetians move to the islands.
Somewhere around 725 A.D., the Doge moves from Malamocco on the mainland to Rialto. They build the monastery of St. Zachary, the first of several ducal palaces, and the basilica of St. Mark.
Around 800 A.D., Charlemagne sets his eyes on Venice. He orders the Pope to expel the Venetians along the Adriatic coast.
He sends his son, who happens to be king of the Lombards, to attack Venice. The siege is a failure with Pepin and most of his men dying from diseases in the local swamps.
Venice retains its Byzantine recognition and trading rights along the Adriatic coast.
Circa 828, the Venetians acquire the relics (maybe) of St Mark the Evangelist, which they place in their new basilica. Venice is becoming a powerful city-state.
Venice Naval Power
There are three other Italian maritime powerhouses, Genoa, Pisa, and Amalfi. While they are duking it out on the west coast of Italy, Venice makes itself a monopoly on the Adriatic.
The Venetians eliminate the pirates in the Adriatic, making Venice and its sea lanes safe. They become a major trading port with the Byzantine Empire and Asia to the east.
By the Fourth Crusade, circa 1200, Venice is feeling its power. It no longer sides with Byzantium (Constantinople,) the Byzantine capital, but joins the Pope’s forces. Instead of rescuing Jerusalem, they sack Constantinople and bring the Byzantine Empire to the ground.
Venice takes part in the plundering and land grab of the former Byzantine Empire.
Plunder treasures include the gilt bronze horses from the Hippodrome of Constantinople, which still resides in St Mark’s Basilica.
Their land grab includes a majority of the Greek islands south of Athens.
By the end of the 1200s, Venice is the most prosperous city in all of Europe. It’s navy numbers over 3,000 ships and 36,000 sailors.
The Golden Age
Venice’s leading families battle each other in the race to build the grandest (gaudiest) palaces. They spend great fortunes in supporting the arts and artists.
The Doge is still in charge, but now there is a Great Council to keep him in check. The council consists of members of the noble families of Venice. They elect the senate, the Council of Ten, and the Doge.
A majority of the Venician population were members of the Orthodox-Roman Catholics. But Venice was open to many religions and did not participate in the religious heresy witch hunt during the Counter-Reformation. The Pope makes a note of this.
Venice Begins to Sink
Circa 1348, rats from ships arriving from the east bring the plague with them. Ports are the first and hardest hit. Venice is no exception. Records are not precise, but estimates believe 30 – 50% of the population of Venice succumbs.
In the 1400s, the Ottomans finally have troops large enough to become a threat to the Venetian forces. By 1430 they seize Thessalonica from the Venetians.
Circa 1453, the Ottomans took control of Constantinople against the Venetian navy and the remains of the Byzantine army.
Sultan Mehmet II declares the first of a series of Ottoman-Venetian wars as payback. Venice ends up losing most of its eastern Mediterranean possessions to the Ottomans.
And then its finances take a significant hit.
1492, and Christopher Columbus sails the ocean blue, finding new products for Europe. Venices’ monopoly on trade takes a big hit. Luckily, they still have India and Asia.
By 1497, Vasco da Gama sails a sea route to India around the Cape of Good Hope. This move ends Venice’s monopoly.
France, England, and the Dutch waste no time in going directly to the source. There is no need to buy through Venice any longer.
Either Venice could not see or chose not to believe the handwriting on the wall. They continue to use galleys that require enormous human resources to row. It’s not that they lose the race to the new worlds; they don’t even show up.
Venice loses its role as an importer. Its trade remains alive on its exporting of local produce and later goods they manufacture.
Death Comes Knocking.
Sanitation has never been a strong point in Venice. For hundreds of years, all their waste went into the lagoon. Add the vermin arriving almost daily on foreign ships, and you see why Venice is a breeding ground for diseases.
The Bubonic Plague returns in 1575 and kills 50,000 people over the next three years. In 1630, the Italian plague, a black plague epidemic that hits Italy the hardest, kills 25% of Italy’s population.
In Venice, it kills a third of the city’s citizens. They bury any hopes or beliefs that Venice is still a significant commercial or political power with the dead.
For the next 200 years, Venice slowly rebuilds its population. The smaller community means there are work and food for everyone, and the city thrives, although on a smaller scale. It retains its art, architecture, and literature from the golden years. By the late 1700s, Venice is one of the most elegant cities in Europe. They govern themselves, and the economy is stable, what could go wrong?
The Man With the Napoleon Complex.
Bonaparte takes control of the city during May of 1797. He removes the gates of the Ghetto and ends the restrictions on the city’s Jews. He moves on and gives Venice to the Austrians.
Napoleon goes on to create his Kingdom of Italy. Five years later, he takes Venice back and makes it part of Italy.
Things are looking better for Venice until 1814 when the little French guy heads to Waterloo.
The next year, Venice is Austrian again. For the next 50 years, it will bounce around, even becoming a republic again for a brief time.
After the Third Italian War of Independence (1866,) Venice and the Veneto join the newly created Kingdom of Italy.
The Wars
During World War I, Venice is on the front lines. It is the principal naval port of the upper Adriatic. Sandbags and plywood were all over St Mark’s Square, and the basilica’s four horses are in hiding in Rome. The city suffers 42 air raids due to its proximity to Austria.
Primary targets were the Arsenal, the railway lines, and St Mark’s Square. Luckily, war by plane is in its infancy, and many of the raids miss their targets entirely. Although more than 50 civilians die, and close to one hundred receive injuries, most escape unharmed.
World War II and the Germans occupy Venice after the Italians attempt an armistice with the Allied powers. By 1945, most of Italy’s northern rail and road networks lie in ruin. Germany is shipping supplies into the port of Venice and distributing it to other parts from there.
The Royal Airforce launches an airstrike in March of 1945. Their flying is superior to the Austrian-Hungarian flyers on WWI. They manage to take out the guns in the harbor before the bombers take out the port.
This move cuts off Germany’s supply route. The city receives little damage. A month later, a force of British and New Zealand troops liberate Venice.
Venice Today
Much of Venice sits on petrified wooden logs(Piles) driven into the floor of the lagoon. People believe that the deterioration of these piles is the reason Venice is sinking 1-2 mm per year.
During the 1900s, the local industry digs multiple artesian wells to draw water. Venice began to subside. When they realize it is the draining of the aquifer that is causing the sinking, they ban the wells.
Unfortunately, many former ground floors were already underwater, making them uninhabitable.
There is very little work available in Venice except for hospitality and tourism. Many youths are fleeing to the mainland. As family patriarchs and matriarchs die off, corporations are buying up the houses. Or worse, they are sitting vacant rotting.
Tourism helps maintain part of Venice. It also makes the city a nightmare. The city cannot accommodate the 10,000 plus cruise guests in addition to the thousands staying in hotels. Every year, more restrictions go into place, making it more like an open-air museum than a city.
What is in Venice for me?
See & Hear.
You could spend many days just admiring the museums and palaces. The walls, floors, and ceilings are masterpieces as well. Sit in St Mark’s Square at night and listen to a small orchestra play waltzes.
Taste & Smell.
Cicchetti (cicheti) are the traditional Venetian small plates they serve in the bacari (bars or osterie). Visit the Rialto fish market early in the morning or smell fresh expresso in the many coffee shops.
Feel.
After strolling endless alleys and squares, find a table overlooking a canal. Have the traditional Aperol aperitif and reflect over the centuries of history you have been seeing.
There may be better ways to bring a day in Venice to a close, but this one doesn’t suck.
A Sense of Arrival
There are numerous ways to arrive to and depart from Venice. One is by cruise ship. The Venezia Terminal Passeggeri is on the west side of the city near the viaduct to the mainland.
Another option is by local train from nearby Mestra on the mainland. There are also high-speed express trains from several major Italian cities.
The Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia is on the Grand Canal on the city’s west side.
There is an express bus service from the airport to Piazza Roma, a parking facility near the train and cruise port. The price as of 2019 was approximately 15 euro per person.
There is a taxi service. Expect to pay around 50 euro for the taxi during regular daytime hours. Read the fine print about luggage or holiday supplements.
From the port, train station, or Piazza Roma, you have two options to reach your hotel. By water or on foot. Most of the 400 bridges in Venice has steps on either side.
The majority of the walkways connecting the bridges are cobblestone and have little to no markings. So the question is, how are you arriving by water?
There are Vaporetto (think city bus, but it is a boat) stations near the port, parking area. and station. They will get you near your hotel but only stop at specific Vaporetto docks.
Hey Taxi
From the airport, there is a Vaporetto service, but it is NOT the same company as the city Vaporetto. It makes several stops and should get you to a dock near your hotel.
As of summer 2019, rates for pre-purchase were around €15 per person.
Water Taxi Sharing – is the water version of sharing a shuttle van from the airport. It will make several stops but at or near your hotel. The rates begin at around €32 per person. They also have these from Santa Lucia and Piazza Roma at approximately € 25 per person.
Several Deluxe hotels (€€€€) offer free (wink wink) private water taxi service to and from their hotel. This mode requires pre-arrangement.
Private Water Taxi – If you have four or more in your group, look into this. This service is a direct water transfer from the airport to your hotel (or closest dock) for just your group. No waiting for others, no additional stops; it is a way to experience your arrival.
If you pre-arrange it, a boat for up to four guests will be around €150 for the taxi boat. I strongly recommend you pre-arrange them as prices can “fluctuate” if you try to arrange one on the fly.
Rates do not include luggage handling on board or porter service at either end. Usually, this is a few euros per bag and worth it after a 10+ hour flight.
Those Other Boats
While we are on the subject of boats, we should probably talk about those long black ones. Everyone wants to ride on a gondola in Venice until they see the price.
The set daytime rate (as of 2019) was € 80 for up to six passengers. (Gondola Rates.)
The trip is approximately 40 minutes. Any time over that and the little dial begins to spin. It is an additional €40 for each 20-minute segment. Unless you verbally agree to go longer, do not pay for more than the 40 minutes.
Unfortunately, there are a few bad apples who try to make a quick buck off the unsuspecting.
Gondola Disclaimer.
Don’t get me wrong. Gondolas are part of the city’s history. They have been around for hundreds of years, they are hand made, and fathers pass them down to sons. I have no problem with that part.
I will say I have had good rides and ones memorable for all the wrong reasons. Approach it with the right mindset.
When the gondolier is pleasant or at least smiles occasionally, it can be a lovely experience. Unfortunately, I have come across ones who speak fluent English to young girls, but plead ignorance when I ask a question.
Even when they do speak English, it is going to be a one-sided conversation. Maybe try your high school Italian, or go for the scenery.
Some go out of their way to make it a magical experience. Others make me look for a cable pulling us through the water (ala amusement park ride).
Most of them do not sing. Some do, and should not. Then there are a few who make it an experience. Don’t expect them to sing for free. Put Dean Martin on your playlist if it is a deal-breaker, but you could also “talk.”
Food For Thought.
Like ANY taxi, guide or driver ANYWHERE, talk to them first. Never jump in and say, “take me.” They just might. First, talk to them. Do you share a similar language? Anyone can say “yes” and “no.”
Questions like “What neighborhood is the hotel in?” or “What sites will we see?” will give you an idea of their level of English (or whatever language you are speaking).
Agree on a price before getting in. Are there any additional fees or charges? It is a question you ask upfront, not at the end.
Water taxis and gondolas go up in price when the sun goes down.
Should See Sites of Venice.
Venice consists of six sestieri (singular sestiere) neighborhoods. This number does not include islands such as Murano and Burano. The Grand Canal, looking like a backward “S” divides five of them.
San Marco is the central area and one of the largest neighborhoods. It encompasses the space between the waterfront (basin), the Rialto Bridge, and everything west to the canal.
Along with Cannaregio, the two make up the north and east side of the canal. Further east is Castello between the basin and north lagoon.
On the south and west side is Dorsoduro, the largest sestiere on that side of the canal. It runs along the waterfront on the south and borders the other two neighborhoods, San Polo and Santa Croce.
St. Mark’s Area
St Mark’s Square is the sitting room of Venice or the front door of Europe, depending on who you ask. Indeed, in the olden day, it was the first port for many ships coming from the east.
Let’s start at the water’s edge with the lagoon to your back. What is the first thing you see? If you said crippling crowds, you are right. Or you are there at 5:00 A.M.
- Saint Mark and Saint Theodore Column – To your left is the round Column of San Teodoro, with Venice’s patron saint standing on top. On your right is the Column of the Lion, with the winged lion statue on top. The symbol of Venice and St Mark.
- Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana – is the first building on the left and dates from 1537. Its initial purpose is to house the book collection of Cardinal Bessarione. Today it is home to one of the world’s most significant collections of classical texts. You can visit some of its grand rooms via the Museo Correr in St Marks Square.
Closer to the Square.
- Doges Palace – is the first building on the right. The current building sits on top of what was the third Ducale palace in Venice. The present wing closest to the water dates from circa 1340. The section nearer to the basilica dates from circa 1424. The side, housing the apartments and government offices, dates from the Renaissance circa 1500. There are several tour programs available.
- Bridge of Sighs – is a 1614 structure linking the Doge’s Palace to the building across the canal behind it housing the New Prisons. You can see the bridge from inside on the palace tour, or from outside along the waterfront. Look for the crowds on the bridge.
- Campanile of St Marks – is the red brick structure looming more than 300 feet over the square. The current one dates to 1912, replacing a similar one with parts dating from the 9th century. An elevator lifts you to an observation area near the top.
St Marks Square
- Basilica di San Marco – The current building dates from 1063. It replaces an earlier church dating from 829 A.D., housing the relics of the Apostle St Mark.
- The church has a Byzantine cross design, and the decorations are from several centuries and numerous locations. They do not allow photos inside the church. The church closes on Sunday morning for mass.
- St. Marks Museum – is on the second floor (loggia) of the church. Here you can see the original quadriga, the four golden horses “borrowed” from Constantinople during the sacking of that city. There are views into part of the church, and you can see details of the gold ceiling up close. It is worth the 5 euro admission for the sight of St. Marks Square from the balcony.
The Rest of the Square
Standing with the basilica to your back, in front of you, is St Mark’s Square. The long building on your right is Procuratie Vecchie, dating from the 1500s after a fire destroys the first building. On the left is the Procuratie Nuove dating from 1586. Both buildings hold offices and apartments of the most important political authorities. Napoleon builds the western structure (far end) circa 1810.
- Torre dell’ Orologio – is to your right. The Renaissance building with tower dates from 1499. The archway through the building leads to a major shopping street. Inside the building is a museum to the grand astrological clock above. Via a spiral staircase, you can climb through the different workings of the timepiece. You can also see the figures of the Magi and the Angel that emerge in procession twice a year. Once on the Epiphany (Jan 6) and the Feast of the Ascension (May 9).
- Caffe Florian – on the left (southside) is possibly the oldest European cafe still in operation. It dates from 1720. In the early 1900s, they begin nightly orchestra concerts on the piazza outside. These always take place during the warm months. As of 2019, the entertainment fee was € 6,00 per person in a chair outside. This fee is in addition to food and beverage. Several other cafes now do similar entertainment.
Museums.
- Museo Correr – is in the southwest corner of the square. It consists of three sections of incredible Venetian history and art.
The Neoclassical Rooms are in the Napoleonic Wing.
The Imperial Apartments of the Royal Palace make up the second section. The majority of the decorations are from the Hapsburg period of occupation.
The third section is Venetian history on the main floor and art on the second. Access to the Monumental Halls of the Biblioteca is through this museum.
- National Archaeological Museum Venice – is in the same building, next to the campanile. It also requires entrance from the Museo Correr. The collection of artifacts and sculptures gives an insight into Roman life on the mainland.
San Marco West
- San Moisè – is a Baroque Catholic church formerly from the 8th century. The elaborate faced dates from circa 1668. The church honors Moses, and the altarpiece depicts him receiving the Ten Commandments. The church is a two-minute walk west of Museo Correr.
- Bauer Palazzo – On the same square with San Moise is the 1930s, deco Hotel Bauer. The hotel has two personalities. Behind it is the Bauer Il Palazzo, in what was the original 1880 Bauer-Grunwald Hotel. A drink at their canal bar is not inexpensive, but what an experience.
- Teatro la Fenice – is the Venice opera house. The current building dates from 1836 after a fire destroys the previous 1792 structure.
The theater is a three-minute walk west and north from the Bauer – San Moise piazza. Cross the bridge by the hotel and walk west. Look for the Calle del Sartor Da Veste sign and turn right.
A Fun Walk
Calle Fenice is on the north (right as you face the theater) side. Follow it west as far as you can until it looks like you will run into the canal. Look left. Follow the hidden passage to the bridge at the end on your right. Cross the bridge and continue forward to the next bridge. Do not cross the bridge, but turn left and go down the stairs. Walk as far as you can until you see a red brick bridge in front of you to the left. Cross the bridge and follow the canal until it jogs right. Turn right on this street. Follow it to the next piazza. The beautiful church on your right is Santa Maria Zobenigo.
Santa Maria Giglio Zobenigo (St. Mary of the Lily) – is a should see if you like Venetian Baroque. The exterior is fabulous, even if it has no Christian images. Inside, they have the only painting in Venice by the Flemish painter Rubens. The current church, dating from 1681, is a five-minute walk west of San Moise.
- The Gritti Palace – dates to 1475, when Andrea Gritti, the current Doge, commissions it for his home. Later it was the Vatican Embassy to Venice, before passing through several families, including the Gritti. Today, it is a luxury hotel.
In the summer, if you can get a table, the sunsets are lovely from the Rooftop Bar (or a nightcap). Afternoon Tea in the Bar Longhi is another pricey but unforgettable experience. The hotel is 250 feet from Santa Maria Zobenigo, on the Grand Canal.
And We Are Walking
Head back to Santa Maria. On the left (as you face the church) is a street. It is Ponte Duodo O Barbarigo, but good luck finding a street sign. At the back of the church, take the staircase to the right and across the canal. Another bridge and you come to Campo (field), San Maurizio.
Why is there a six-sided statue in the center? In the old days, freshwater was a problem in the swamp. Under the “field” is a large cistern where they would capture the rainwater from the roofs. That’s the top of the well, not a statue. The church is now a music museum.
Continue walking west from the northwest corner by the church. Over one more canal and you arrive at Campo Santo Stefano.
Campo Santo Stefano.
- Chiesa di Santo Stefano – is the parish church at the north end of the piazza. The Gothic Catholic church dates from the 1400s, with additions from the 1500s.
To me, a fascinating part of the church is the leaning campanile (bell tower). Unfortunately, you cannot see it from the front of the church. You need to walk to the far side of the square to see the top and the tilt.
- The Veneto Institute of Sciences, Letters and Arts – occupies one of the buildings at the sound end of the piazza. It often hosts interesting exhibits, although they tend to be only in Italian when I see them.
- San Vidal – is to the south of the science institute and is my favorite building on this piazza. A former church, much dating from 1696, is now an event and concert hall. The “house band” is a chamber music group. See the website (orange link) for concerts.
- Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti – is a 1565 palace opposite San Vidal. Over the years, it has gone through many owners and renovations. Past owners include Archduke Frederick Ferdinand of Austria, who dies there at age 26. Henri, Comte de Chambord, of the French House of Bourbon, Baron Raimondo Franchetti, and his wife, Sarah Luisa de Rothschild. Today, it is part of The Veneto Institute of Sciences, Letters, and Arts, who use it as a conference center.
Access
- Ponte dell’Accademia – is one of only four bridges spanning the Grand Canal. It is to the south of San Vidal. From here, you can cross the canal to the Dorsoduro neighborhood. On the far side is the Vaporetto (water bus) station Accademia on the #1, #2, and N lines.
Sites in San Marco.
- Grassi Museum – is in the Palazzo Grassi dating from 1655. This palace is the last new building on the Grand Canal before the decline of the Venetian Republic. You can see a difference in its architecture to others made earlier. The permanent collection is François Pinault’s private collection of modern and contemporary art. There are additional artists’ works and ever-changing exhibits.
It is a three-minute walk west of Santo Stefano. The San Samuele Vaporetto stop is outside.
- Museo Fortuny – is an art gallery in a palace built for the Pesaro family in the 1400s. Circa 1902, Mariano Fortuny purchases the residence and opens a fashion studio there. Fashion is his second career after one in stage scenery and lighting design and invention. The museum houses many examples of his work from both professions and the paintings of his father, an artist. It is an eight-minute walk from the Grassi Museum going east.
- Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo – is all about the spiral staircase. After years of restoration, in 2018, they reopen the stairs on the outside to the public. Climbing the six stories brings you to an enchanting view over the rooftops of Venice. The staircase is a three-minute walk from the Museo Fortuny. It is a five-minute walk from the northwest corner of St Mark’s Square.
Grand Canal
Let’s take a moment to talk about Venice’s main street.
Five of the six neighborhoods have access to the Grand Canal. There are only four pedestrian bridges along the canal, but there are places where small ferries will carry people across.
Here are a few of the highlights starting at the mouth of the Grand Canal just west of St Mark’s. See the specific neighborhood for more information.
- Punta della Dogana Art Museum – Dorsoduro
- Bauer Palazio – San Marco (west)
- Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute – Dorsoduro
- The Gritti Palace – San Marco (west)
- Palazzo Dario – Dorsoduro
- Peggy Guggenheim Collection – Dorsoduro
- Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti – San Marco (west)
Ponte dell’Accademia Bridge
- Gallerie dell’Accademia – Dorsoduro
- Ca’ Rezzonico Art and furniture Museum – Dorsoduro
- Grassi Palace Contemporary Art Museum – San Marco
As the canal turns to the right, you can see several buildings housing the Università Ca’ Foscari on your left. The broad channel to the right of the university separates the Dorsoduro neighborhood from the San Polo area. And further west, from the Santa Croce neighborhood. It is not exact, but it is close enough for sightseeing.
Ponte di Rialto Bridge
Use the bridge as the general boundary between the San Marco and Cannaregio neighborhoods. (It’s a canal just north of the bridge). A few blocks east, the Rio Della Fava separates both of these neighborhoods from the Castella neighborhood.
- Rialto Mercato (Market) – San Polo
- Ca’ d’Oro Museum – Cannaregio
San Polo becomes Santa Croce on the left (west) side
- Ca’ Pesaro International Gallery of Modern Art – Santa Croce
- Casino of Venice – Cannaregio
- Chiesa di San Geremia – Cannaregio
Ponte Degli Scalzi Bridge
- San Simeone Piccolo Church – Santa Croce
- Santa Lucia Train Station – Cannaregio
Ponte della Costituzione Bridge
- Piazzale Roma Car Park – Santa Croce
The Grand Canal ends just west of the train station, where it empties into the lagoon. It separates the viaduct to the mainland and the cruise ship harbor.
Several Vaporetto lines transverse the entire canal. Some then loop to the basin and return you to near St Mark’s Square. It makes a lovely evening trip.
Check a Vaporetto map (Vaporetto Map) to get the correct route number. Do not wait too late to do this. Many lines stop at a specific time. Make sure you are to your destination by that time or have very comfortable walking shoes.
Pali da Casada
While we are talking about canals, it would be a great time to talk about the Pali da Casada. The what? you have never heard of these? What if I say the striped barber poles in the water?
The term means the poles of the house (family). These traditional wooden poles would bare the family colors. They were outside the palaces along the canals to indicate whose house was whos. Also, the family’s gondola would be in the same colors.
At night, oil lamps would sit on top of them like lamp posts. Today, a cappellozzo (finial) tops the pole.
Today, they are only for decoration. The owners use plastic or metal for new poles. Few families live in the palaces anymore, and none own gondolas. Since 1562, gondolas can only be painted black. And it is illegal to tie up to the traditional pali.
Luckily, some people have kept them in good condition. Take a cruise down the Grand Canal and look at the different colors and tops.
Dorsoduro
Starting at the tip, or mouth of the Grand Canal going west:
- Punta della Dogana Art Museum – is in the old Sea Customs House, right on the very point where the Grand Canal begins. It is the companion Museum to the Palazzo Grassi, offering temporary exhibitions of contemporary and modern art.
- Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute (Salute) – is a Roman Catholic minor basilica in the Baroque style. The church, dating from 1687, is giving thanks to the Virgin Mother for saving the city from the terrible plague. And a prayer to protect it from future epidemics. The church is free to enter. The museum of treasures has a small entrance fee. Many afternoons at 3:30, there are organ vespers. It is two-minutes west of the art museum.
- Palazzo Dario – is a private house dating from probably the early 1400s. It has undergone several facelifts. It is a 1908 subject for Claude Monet, and today it occasionally holds private events for the Guggenheim next door. From the canal, it is easier to see the excellent tilt on the left side. Legend says the ghosts of the many murder-suicides in the house haunt the halls. It is two-minutes west of Salute.
- Peggy Guggenheim Collection – is in the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, a palace dating from the 1700s. It was the last home of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim for 30 years until her death in 1979. Today, the Guggenheim Foundation operates the collection by Italian futurists and American modernists. The pieces include examples of Cubism, Surrealism, and abstract expressionism.
Ponte dell’Accademia Bridge
- Gallerie dell’Accademia – The Accademia di Belle Arti di Venezia dates from circa 1756. Circa 1777, they begin art restoration. Today, the collection contains masterpieces of Venetian painting up to the 18th century.
- Squero di San Trovaso – is a Venetian boatyard dating to the late 1600s. They are one of the last boatyards repairing and building gondolas. The boatyard is not open to the public, but private tours are available with reservations. From across the canal, you can see into the boatyard. It is an eight-minute walk south from the Accademia.
- San Sebastiano – is a Roman Catholic church dating from the late 1300s. In the 1500s, they enlarge it and remodel it into the church you see today. Inside there are works by Veronese, Tintoretto, and Titian. It is a 10-minute walk west of the boatyard.
- Scuola Grande dei Carmini – is an excellent school of devotion dating from the 1500s. It is still active. You can tour the elaborate school between 11 A.M. – 5 P.M. daily. You must pre-arrange touring with guides. It is a five-minute walk from San Sebastiano.
- Ca’ Macana – dating from 1986, is one of the older workshops and only a few still in the city. The founders were art students who took the time to learn the traditional techniques and material to use. The shop gets many tour groups. Try to hit it in between or later in the day. It is a three-minute walk from the Scuola Grande.
Hidden Venice
Across the canal is Chiesa di San Barnaba. This former church from 1776 now houses a collection of Da Vinci exhibits. Katherine Hepburn fans may recognize the piazza as where she falls in the canal in the movie Summertime. The facade of the church was a library in the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.
- Ca’ Rezzonico Art and Furniture Museum – the current palazzo dates from 1756. Later owners include painter Robert Barrett Browning and a count.
Renters include painter John Singer Sargent and composer Cole Porter.
Today, it is a museum of Venetian art from the 18th century. One minute east of Ca Macana.
San Polo Neighborhood
- Rialto Mercato – is the fresh seafood and produce market that pops up on the west side of the Rialto bridge every morning except Sunday. It is a great people show or place to get the freshest ingredients if you are cooking. Get there no later than 7:30 A.M. (opening) to watch them set up. Look out for the chefs from the best restaurants getting a head start.
In the late afternoon, Cicchetti (chi-KET-tee) bars start opening, drawing a large selection of locals, especially students. Cicchetti is the Venetian Tapas (small plates). A great stop on the way to dinner.
- San Giacomo di Rialto – probably dates from circa 1071, although some say earlier. It is one of (the?) oldest churches in Venice. The Gothic porch on the front is one of the few surviving in Venice. This porch is probably where the bankers and money changers set up shop. The market sprang up around this. The 15th-century clock is impressive, but do not use it to tell time.
Campo San Polo
This campo (field) is the largest in Venice and the second-largest public square after St Mark’s. Why do they call them fields? Because up until the 1400s, they were neighborhood farms and livestock areas.
A need for fresh (rain) water pushes the city to dig cisterns in these areas and cover them with piazzas.
- Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Frari,) – is a minor Franciscan basilica dating from 1338. Much of today’s building is from the 1400s. The campanile is the second tallest in the city. Works of art inside include pieces by Lombardo, Donatello, and Titian. It is a four-minute walk west of San Polo.
- Leonardo da Vinci Museum – is a smaller version of the one in Florence. Models, some life-size, of his inventions are on display. Delve into his artwork through high-resolution digital reproductions. The museum is on the west side of Frari, next to the Chiesa di San Rocco.
The museum is three-minutes from the S. Toma’ DX Vaporetto dock. It is seven-minutes from Ca’ Rezzonico in the Dorsoduro neighborhood.
Santa Croce
This neighborhood is more of a residential area than a tourist destination. I love that because the shops and cafes are full of locals. There are very few stops on the main Vaporetto lines and several small hotels. There are not many sites here, but they are quality.
- San Simeone Piccolo – is a church dating from 1738, making it one of the newest churches in Venice. The interior is interesting for its Neoclassical architecture. Why is it one of the most photographed churches in Venice? Is it the artwork or the green dome? It’s the first thing you see when you exit the train station directly across the Grand Canal.
Ponte Degli Scalzi Bridge
- Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia – is the natural history museum. It is in the Fondaco dei Turchi, a palace dating from the 13th century. The Venetian Republic buy it as a place for visiting dignitaries. Later it became a single-building “ghetto” for Ottoman and then German merchants. The museum has an extensive collection from the local area and an aquarium. The museum is a ten-minute walk from San Simeone.
- The Church of San Stae(Saint Eustachius) – dating from the 11th century has a striking facade facing the Grand Canal. The interior shows the influence of Palladio, who was changing architecture on the mainland.
It is a four-minute walk from the Natural History Museum.
- Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo – is a gothic palazzo behind the Church of San Stae. Rebuilt extensively in the 1600s, it was the home of the Mocenigo family, a leading family of the city. Seven family members would become the Doges. Today, the palace is home to the Museum and Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. For a look into the clothing of Venice, this is an essential stop.
- Ca’ Pesaro International Gallery of Modern Art – is in a beautiful Baroque marble palace dating from 1710. It was one of many Pesaro family residences. Since 1902, it has been housing a modern art collection. Pieces from the 19th-century include works by Klimt, Rodin, Wildt, and Balla. The 20th-century collection contains works by Carrà, De Chirico, Sironi, Morandi, and more.
The second floor is home to temporary exhibitions. On the third floor is the Museum of Oriental Art, a museum within a museum.
Cannaregio
- Fornace Orsoni – dates from 1900. Here, they produce Smalti, the traditional hand-cut mosaic glass. It is the only furnace that is burning in Venice proper.
Some of the brightly colored glass mosaic samples.
Visits are by reservation only and happen on the first and last Wednesday of the month. There is no sign out front, and you cannot see anything from outside. The furnace is a five-minute walk west from the Guglie Vaporetto station.
Jewish Ghetto
There are many theories about where the name begins. There is little argument that this is the first Ghetto in Europe, dating from 1516. The ghetto gates remain until Napoleon removed them in 1797.
More confusion arises from the two sections; Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto) is older than the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto).
The Venetian Jews did not come together as one.
There were five synagogues, indicating “differences.” There was a separate synagogue for the Germans (Scuola Grande Tedesca). The Italians had (Scuola Italiana), the Spanish (Scuola Spagnola), and the Portuguese (Scuola Levantina). The fifth, (Scuola Canton), was a private synagogue for four families. Later, it includes members of the Venetian Ashkenazi community.
They did not speak Hebrew as a first language. However, the writing of all public signs and legal documents was in Hebrew.
When Italy falls to the Nazi (1943), many of the 2000 Jews in Venice flee. Unfortunately, over 500 are not so lucky and end up in concentration camps. Only eight will come home.
Today there are fewer than 500 Jews left in Venice, and very few live in the Ghetto. However, it remains an important religious and social hub for them. Many of them attend religious services that take place in two of the synagogues. The other three are predominantly for tours that the Jewish Museum leads.
Ghetto Vechio (Vecchio)
This section is mostly residential. It was the site of a copper foundry. (Getto in Italian). Here are apartment buildings, shops, and restaurants, some that are kosher. It sits between the Ghetto Nuovo and the Cannaregio Canal. The Guglie Bridge and Vaporetto stop lie on either side of the traditional door to the Ghetto. Look for the Gam Gam restaurant and to its right.
Ghetto Nuovo
Campo di Ghetto Nuovo – is the main square of the New Ghetto section. It sits on a separate island.
Jewish Museum of Venice – is a small museum, but they pack a lot in. Here, traditional objects show a window into the Ghetto life for the Venetian Jews. Besides textiles and jewelry, there are ancient books, manuscripts, and artifacts from their religious life. Visits to the nearby synagogues begin here. They also arrange a tour of the Jewish cemetery.
Chabad of Venice – is an art and culture center in the new section. Also, it offers a synagogue, kosher food, and exhibits. Both the culture center and museum are on the Campo.
East of the Ghetto
- Torrefazione Marchi – is the only coffee roasting company in central (historic) Venice. They have been roasting since 1930. Even if you do not drink coffee, go in for the aroma. If you are in the Ghetto Nuovo, cross the bridge at the north end of the campo. Turn right at the end of the bridge. The store is three shops down on your left.
- Ponte de Chiodo – is one of only two of the 800 bridges of Venice left that does not have a railing. As you come out of the coffee roasting shop, turn left. Walk approximately eight minutes along the canal. You will come to a large bridge with railings, cross it. Right in front of you is the Ponte de Chiodo. Take a picture, but please show some respect. It is a private bridge for the four residences on the other side.
And We Are Walking
Follow the canal as far as you can. You will come to a central pedestrian street. Turning left, cross the bridge heading towards (per) Rialto. You will come to Campo S.S. Apostoli, which has two trees. Before you reach the first tree (and a souvenir kiosk), turn right and cross the bridge. The sidewalk turns left on the other side.
Go one block to Calle Dolfin and turn right. This street will bend left and then right. You should be at the Ponte (bridge) S Giovani Grisostomo. Cross the bridge. You will enter an open area with the Church of St. Giovanni Crisostomo and bell tower. On the far side of the church, turn left.
Ahead of you is a low door with the sign “Corte prima del Milion Odel Forno” over it. Go through this opening. Vier right then left between the cafes. Walk to the end of the passage through the low doorway.
- Corte Seconda del Milion (Marco Polo) – Guides will bring you to this charming square and point out Marco Polo’s home. It may be the home of his childhood. It may be his house after returning from China. Most guides point to the building behind the Corte Seconda del Milion plaque as his home. Although one told me it was all the buildings. My problem is…
The buildings appear to be from the 1500s, and Marco began his eternal voyage in 1324. Perhaps the foundations of these buildings are from Marco’s time. A nearby theater has a plaque saying it sits upon the homes of Marco. You decide.
Secret Venice.
Return to the main street by the church the way you came. (through the door “Sotoportego Del Milion.”) Turn left on the main road. You are about three-minutes from the Rialto Bridge. You will come to another bridge (surprise) before you get there that jogs to the left. Your destination is the five-story building causing you to jog left.
- Salizzada del Fontego dei Tedeschi – dates from 1508. It began as a quasi-ghetto for German merchants. On the ground floor were offices. They would sell items in the courtyard. The upper levels were living quarters, and the lower level is where goods would arrive by boat. In the 1900s, it was a post office.
Today, it is T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a modern mall. Take a look inside, and you can see much of the original structure. NOW the secret. They have a rooftop terrace with incredible views of the Grand Canal. The access is free; HOWEVER, you must pre-book it online.
Also in Cannaregio
Ca’ Vendramin Calergi – is a Grand Canal palace dating from 1509. It has numerous noble owners over the centuries. Composer Richard Wagner, while renting a floor in the place in 1883, dies there. Today, it is home to the Venice Casino and a small museum to Wagner. The museum is only open on Saturday mornings by prior appointment. The casino has a strict dress code in the evenings. There is an admission fee, and they require I.D. Some hotels have free admission tickets.
Castello
Stand with the astrological clock on your left and the basilica on your right. See the white marble four-story building ahead of you? Right before you reach it, you are looking for a narrow street on the left. The street name is Calle de la Rizza if you can see the sign. Walk until you reach Campo de la Guerra on your right. Turn right. You will cross a bridge, keep going straight. The first time you can turn left (Salizada San Lio, just beyond #5332 on the left), do so. Your first right is Calle del Mondo Novo.
- Vinaria Nave de Oro – at 5786 B is a wine store where they sell wine in whatever container you bring yourself. That means their customers are predominantly locals who do not live too far away. What a great local insight. They take lunch from approximately 1:00 to 4:30 P.M. The walk from St Mark’s is approximately six-minutes.
Campo Santa Maria Formosa
This piazza is 2 minutes further east from the wine store and across the bridge.
- Santa Maria Formosa – is the 1492 church overlooking the Campo. The facade facing the square is Baroque and dates from 1604. The side facing the canal is in Renaissance-style and dates from 1542. It has a beautiful bell tower.
- Fondazione Querini Stampalia – sits behind the church. The house itself is a museum. Open to the public; it is one of the best-preserved examples of a historic home in Europe. The complex also includes the library, which is not open to locals. Guests can tour the library on Mondays by pre-reserving.
- Museo di Palazzo Grimani – is a block east and one block north of the Campo. Along the southeast of the square are several bridges. Take the red brick one on the far left. After crossing the bridge, take the first left. The museum is at the end of the street. This museum palace was once home to a Doge. Many of the upper rooms are blank slates to accent the art. If these walls could talk… Where you can still see the original decorations, the museum rocks. The marble atrium of statuary is more than worth the admission.
Walking.
Exit the square at the north corner, furthest from the front of the church. You will cross two bridges before coming to Campo Santa Marina. Upon entering, turn right and exit through the passageway straight ahead. You will pass over a bridge, then follow the canal to the second bridge on the right. (Ponte E Calle De Le Erbe) Cross the bridge and take the first left you can. It is a narrow street. Follow it to Calle Larga Giacinto Gallina, a more significant, usually busy road. Look right, and you should see a bridge crossing to a church. Cross that bridge.
Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo
- Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo – is one of the largest churches in Venice and dates from 1430. Since its completion, this Dominican church has held the funeral of every Doge from then on. The artwork and decoration inside is impressive. There is an admission fee to enter.
- The equestrian statue of Bartolomeo Colleoni – is to the right of the church in the Campo. He was a military leader from the 1400s.
- Scuola Grande di San Marco – is the elaborate white building to the left of the church. Dating from circa 1500, it was initially one of the six Scuole Grandi of Venice. The Grand Schools were Christian charity groups that also took a role in the development of music. The building is open to the public on Tuesday – Saturdays when guests can see the Sala Capitolare and the alter by Sansovino. The building houses the Museum of the History of Medicine and the Medical Historical Library.
Side Trip
Calle Varisco – is a narrow street. How tight you ask. It gets down to 20 inches wide. It is a fun photo stop if you have the time.
From the front of Then hang a right onto Fondamenta del Piovan. Cross the next bridge and take a sharp left under the covered walk. Walk to the first right, (Riotera Dei Biri o del). Follow this to the Campiello Widmann già Biri. Cross to the far opposite corner, and you will pass into another small square. Hang a sharp left. You will see a narrow passageway. This portal is the beginning of Calle Varisco. You will need to walk a few blocks until you find the thin section.
You will know it when you see it. The trip should not take more than ten minutes each way.
Back to the Tour
Back at Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, walk to the far back corner of the campo (right side of church). On your right, you should see a passage marked by Corte Veniera. Take it. At the canal, turn left and take the first bridge to the right. Follow the street as far as you can. At the end, turn left and turn left into the first street. This street is Calle Longa Santa Formosa.
- Libreria Acqua Alta – is at 5176 B, Calle Longa Santa Formosa, basically at the end. I love book stores, so this is a must for me. Here you will find second-hand or out of print titles. That’s interesting enough. How they keep many of the books safe from flooding is brilliant. Labels are all in Italian the times I have been there. This space qualifies for Hidden Venice.
Leave the bookstore and turn right. Follow the street to Campo Santa Maria Formosa. Turn left and depart the Campo via the red brick bridge. Follow this street for several blocks until you come to Calle Castagna on your right. Turn right. Follow this to the end at Campo Santi Filippo e Giacomo. Jog right and continue towards the basin.
East Castello
Starting from the St Marks column, it is an approximately 15-minutes walk to the first site.
- Museo Storico Navale – is a naval history museum dating from 1919. The collections include items of the naval and maritime history of Venice. Also, there is a large number of ship models in various sizes.
- Venetian Arsenal – is a three-minute walk north of the museum. This complex was the center of Venice’s naval power. Today, it is a complex of former shipyards and armories. It is open Monday – Friday for exploring.
Further Out of Venice Central
Isola di S.Giorgio Maggiore – is not that far as it is actually across the basin from St Mark’s Square. The church and buildings take up much of the island.
- Church of San Giorgio Maggiore – dating from 1610, was a design of Andrea Palladio. The Benedictine church is lovely to tour, but the draw to the island is the bell tower. From its observation area, you get great views of Venice with half the crowd you find at St Mark’s Campanile.
Giudecca – is west of S Giorgio Maggiore. More residential than commercial, you can find hotels here and several churches.
- Chiesa del Santissimo Redentore – dating from 1576, is also a design of Palladino. The interior includes artwork by Tintoretto, Veronese, and Bassano. It also offers excellent views of Venice.
North Lagoon
Murano – is the island of glass. After a devastating fire, they move all the furnaces for glass making to Murano.
- Museum of Glass – is an in-depth exploration of the history of Venice glass.
- Santa Maria e San Donato – is one of Venice’s oldest churches dating from the ninth-century.
Burano – is the island of lace and fishermen. Also, try the bussolai buranei, a local butter cookie.
- Lace Museum – is in the palace of Podestà of Torcellowas. It was the home of the famous Burano Lace School from 1872 to 1970.
Torcello – is probably the first island to have settlers circa 452 A.D. Attacks by the Lombards and the Franks kept immigration to the island steady. By 638, the island becomes the bishop’s official seat. It will hold that title for more than one thousand years.
- Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta – is a Byzantine structure dating from 639. The current church retains much of the 11th and 12th-century Byzantine construction, including mosaics and decorations.
- Ponte del Diavolo – is a nearby bridge with no parapets. The foundations are from circa 13th-century, while the bridge is from the 15th century.
- Trono di Attila – is a stone seat that “legend” says belongs to Attila the Hun. Attila never made it this far. In reality, the throne was the seat of the magister militum (governor). He would sit here during council meetings and when administering justice.
Venice Summary
So many people have been to Venice. But when they see this list, they realize they only saw a small bit. Each of the six neighborhoods could take up half a day without touching foot on the outer islands.
And what about the mainland? Asolo, Asiago, Treviso, Padua, and Verona make easy day trips. There are beautiful architectural creations of Palladio and sparkling wine vineyards.
Where do you start?