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Here is the home of Pizza, Buffalo mozzarella, and everything Neapolitan. After five minutes on its streets, you may also believe it is the home to utter chaos. But that is just another part of the charm of Naples.
In general, people have a love or hate relationship with Naples.
That is to say, those who get to know it, experience it, love it. In contrast, those who blow through in a day seem to hate it. Many see it from the cruise pier or the highways linking the dock with Pompeii. Indeed the roads in your hometown are not the highlights. In like manner, neither are the motorways of Naples.
Well, there is THAT…
Is it a perfect city? No. It has a few “less than wonderful” traits. Indeed one of the biggest complaints is the traffic.
Cars, scooters, and people all competing for the same little plot of pavement. Is it absolute chaos? ABSOLUTELY. Is it an endearing aspect of the city? Call me pazzo (crazy), but YES, it is. With this in mind, find a seat and watch the Neapolitan life going on around you. It is a brilliant orchestration of space management.
Perhaps the only downside I have to Naples is the crime. I don’t mean what they charge for an American Whiskey in the hotels. (Although that I.S. a crime). Due to the city’s hustle and the bustle, it is ripe for pick-pockets and drive-by snatches.
I have never been witness to a violent crime, which many say the city has. I’m sure it does like ANY CITY IN THE WORLD. However, I choose to stay out of those neighborhoods.
In short, thank goodness you are a traveler and not a tourist. You know how to be less of a target. (don’t be a target).
Gateway to things near.
Naples has so much to offer you do not need to leave it. Colorful neighborhoods, imposing fortresses, world-class shopping, breath-taking opera, and mouth-watering cuisine.
For instance, the Archeological Museum of Naples is one of the top ten museums in Europe. In addition to treasures from all over Southern Europe, it has the most extensive collection of relics from Pompeii and Herculaneum.
And Far.
With that in mind, Naples also has many nearby must-see destinations. Potential day trip’s from Naples include the more traditional island of Ischia. In contrast, there is jet-setting Capri not much further.
In like manner, the Sorrentine Peninsula is a must-visit! On one side, the scenic town of Sorrento and incredible views over the Bay of Naples.
On the other side, the Amalfi Coast with its death-defying two-lane road and spectacular vistas. It winds between picturesque villages clinging to the hillside. While you may not know it has a name, you have seen pictures of it. Subconsciously, your mind probably has it on a must-see list.
Equally important is Vesuvius (Vesuvio), the sleeping volcano that dominates the southeastern sky. You can visit the volcano itself or two ancient cities famous due to its eruption, Pompeii, and Herculaneum (Ercolano).
Furthermore, to the north is the magnificent Caserta, un-known (unfortunately) to soo many people. Here you have model villages, aqueducts, and Italy’s version of Versailles Palace. The Royal Palace of Caserta is the most substantial royal residence in the world by volume. In other words, wear REALLY comfortable walking shoes.
Despite what you may hear about Naples, Look beyond the chaos. Surprisingly, you may like what you see.
What is in Naples for me?
See & Hear.
The Historical center of Naples is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. What more do you need? But, if that’s not enough, the Caserta, Vesuvius, and the Costiera Amalfitana areas are also on the list.
Then again, you may choose to immerse yourself in a world-class museum.
By all means, experience an opera in The Real Teatro di San Carlo, dating from 1737. (40 years before La Scala in Milan). Even if you do not understand the language, the music will speak to you.
Another option is to sit in a piazza, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
As I said before, it is the home to pizza. This pure street food, the food of the working man, is just better in Naples. Likewise, Buffalo mozzarella is everywhere. Also, there’s limoncello from nearby Sorrento. A treat both to your sense of smell and your taste buds.
Feel.
You are sipping an early morning cappuccino in a café along S. Brigida street. People are scrambling to their offices and stores, and young women hold on as their Vespa darts through traffic. Sales associates are hawking their wares as the street starts to get brighter from the rising sun.
There may be better ways to welcome the morning, but this one doesn’t suck.
SHOULD SEE SITES
Historic Centre of Naples.
- Piazza del Plebiscito. The name comes from the general vote (a plebiscite) on October 2, 1860, for the Kingdom of Naples to join the Kingdom of Italy. The pedestrian-only piazza is the location of festivals and concerts, including Elton John, Maroon 5, and Bruce Springsteen. This piazza is a great place to start your exploration.
- Royal Palace of Naples. – (Website in Italian only). In 1734, the current building on Piazza del Plebiscito became the royal residence of the Bourbon Kings. You can tour the interior rooms, which are in remarkable shape. Visit the library, which includes writings from a Herculaneum resident before the eventful day in 79 A.D. Outside you can visit the gardens and chapel.
San Francesco di Paola. – Around 1810, King Joachim Murat of Naples began an enormous tribute to his brother-in-law, Napoleon. With Napoleon’s defeat and the return of the Bourbon Kings to power, the memorial was out, and the church took over. It is similar to the Pantheon in Rome. A portico (porch) with six columns and two Ionic pillars is in front of a circular church. The dome is nearly 175 feet high.
- Teatro di San Carlo. -(Website in an Italian/English mix) The Opera House. Opening in 1737, 41 years before La Scala in Milan, it was a project for the Bourbon King. Although damaged by a fire in 1816 and a bomb in 1943, some original building still stands. A guide leads tours daily, but if you can catch a performance, even better.
- Galleria Umberto I. – Across the street from the Opera is Naples’ most famous shopping mall. Dating from 1887, it combines cafes, shops, and apartments under one glass roof. It is also on the UNESCO list.
Harbor Front
- Castel Nuovo. – Between the Maritime Station (ferry harbor) and the opera house is Castel Nuovo. This medieval castle dating from 1279, began as the royal residence. Trouble from other towns leads to building the walls at a later point to make it a fortress.
Castel dell’ Ovo.– A 20-minute walk along the waterfront from the Castel Nuovo sits the Ovo Castle. The “Egg Castle” sits on what was the island of Megaride. It was here, in the 6th century B.C., that Greek colonists found the port which would become Naples. Much of the current fortress dates from the 15th century.
The University of Naples Area.
- Basilica of San Giovanni Maggiore. – The church history is somewhat hazy, although they have been able to date a beam back to 324 AD. Much of the current church dates from 1656 AD. Inside is a beautiful collection of Renaissance architecture and artwork. The Basilica is a 20-minute walk east of Piazza del Plebiscito.
- Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary. (Naples Duomo) In a country with incredible churches, this building is not in the top ten. The current building dates from 1210 AD and is sitting upon Roman and Greek ruins. The highlight is not the church itself, but the Royal Chapel of the Treasure of San Gennaro inside. It is a Baroque masterpiece by the city’s best artists of the day.
- Sansevero Chapel Museum. – Two blocks from the Basilica, this once private chapel is now a fascinating museum. It is home to 30 works of art, including the incredible The Veiled Christ, by Giuseppe Sanmartino.
- Via San Gregorio Armeno. – A five-minute walk from the Duomo is Christmas every day. This street is famous for the artists who, for several generations, have been creating Nativity scenes. Big or small, wooden, straw, ceramic, you name it. To see them working, visit at any time of the year except November – December when they are too busy selling.
Around the City.
- National Archaeological Museum. – A 20-minute walk north from San Giovanni Maggiore is one of Italy’s best museums. The museum has one of the best collections of ancient history and archaeology from Egypt, Greece, and Italy. Most noteworthy are the items from nearby Herculaneum and Pompeii. Worth losing a few hours inside.
- San Gennaro Catacombs. Just north of the city on a hillside are catacombs unlike those seen elsewhere in Italy. These catacombs, the final resting place for early Christians, date from the 2nd and 4th century A.D. Whereas some catacombs are small with low ceilings, this catacomb has large chambers, some with ceilings 18 feet high. See the website for tours and other activities.
Outside the City.
North.
- Royal Palace at Caserta & Park, the Aqueduct of Vanvitelli, and the San Leucio Complex. This UNESCO World Heritage site is about one hour’s drive north from Central Naples. Here you can see the 18th-century palace of the Bourbons that rivals the French Versailles. It covers more area than its more famous French counterpart. Nearby is the 1762 A.D. Aqueduct of Vanvitelli built to supply water to the palace and gardens. The San Leucio Complex has buildings and artifacts dating from the 1789 Silk Weavers Royal Colony. What began as a silk factory by the orders of King Ferdinand became a progressive working village.
South.
- The Amalfi Coast. (Costiera Amalfitana), is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is just over 23 miles long, stretching from Vietri sul Mare in the east to Positano in the west. It includes the towns of Amalfi and Ravello. Each village is more picturesque than the last, clinging to the jagged hillsides.
- Sorrento. – Although the Amalfi is on the Sorrentine Peninsula, the Bay of Naples side is not part of the Amalfi. Here you will also find picturesque villages clinging to the rugged coast. Perhaps the most beautiful is Sorrento towards the west end. It is a cornucopia of Mediterranean colors in its buildings, lemon groves, and coastline.
- Capri. This island is just off the west end of the Sorrentine Peninsula. You can reach it in about 30 minutes by hydrofoil from Sorrento or 50 minutes from Naples. Once the summer home of Roman emperors, today it is a retreat for Italy’s jet-set. High-end shops, cafes, and hotels dot the islands two towns, Ana-Capri and Capri town. Sightseeing includes some ruins of the emperor’s villa. In reality, it is the view from the ruins you go to see. Very popular, and usually very crowded, is the Blue Grotto. A cave you can only reach by small rowboat famous for the blue color of the water. The Faraglioni rock formations off the southeast end of the island are the subjects of many photographers.