Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
THE MEDICI FAMILY.
SHOULD SEE FLORENCE.
THE OTHER SIDE
Florence is the capital of Tuscany. Becoming a major medieval center for trade and finance, it was one of the wealthiest cities.
Also, it is the birthplace of the Renaissance, in part due to the funding by the ruling Medici family.
The small Etruscan settlement of Fiesole begins around 200 BC. Rivaling factions destroy in 80 B.C. for supporting Rome.
Twenty years later, Julius Caesar builds a settlement between the river and the remains. In the style of a Roman army camp, they lay it out on a grid.
The main streets, the cardo (north to south), and the decumanus (east to west) intersect at the center. At first, it is to guard the river crossing. It became a central trading point.
In 27 B.C., when the Roman Republic became the Roman Empire, the town of Florentia made a peaceful transition.
Roman Rule
For the next three hundred years, Florentia grows as the Roman Empire flourishes. Even in 285 AD, when Constantine splits the Roman Empire into two, the town continues to grow and prosper.
With the fall of the Western Roman Empire in 476 AD, they don’t fare as well.
Flavius Odoacer, the barbarian statesman, deposes the last Emperor of the western empire. By defacto, he becomes the first King of Italy in 476. His rule will not last 20 years.
In 493, the Ostrogoths, kill Odoacer and destroy much of the town.
Justinian I invades Italy in 535 AD in an attempt to win the region back for the Byzantines. He is temporarily successful.
Then the Ostrogoth army rallies and takes it back. In 552, the Byzantines succeed in overthrowing the Ostrogoths. They rebuild the town, much like the original Roman castrum.
But their victory has a short life. The war between the Byzantine Empire and the Ostrogothic Kingdom has left Italy empty and weak. By 568 AD, the Germanic Lombards sweep in from the north and control all of the Italian Peninsula.
Lombard Rule
The Lombards remain in control for the next two hundred years. Like many, they conquer and move on. Florence is a backwater, and the population and prosperity grow slowly.
Then in 774, a Frankish King captures and places Italy into his real estate holdings. He declares himself the king of the Lombards. His name is Charlemagne.
In 800 AD, he has the Pope declare him the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. He also sets up many kingdoms, including the Kingdom of Italy, comprising northern and western Italy.
Soon the Pope and Emperor are fighting each other so much; they have no time to rule over Italy. The Frank nobles waste no time taking more control over their lands on a local level.
Florence begins to thrive. In 825, the Imperial authorities designate Florence as one of the eight Italian cities to have a religious school. Florence is back on the map.
Who was ruling Italy for the next 150 years depends on which aristocratic family you ask. Is my sister-in-law in line before your nephew? What percentage of nobility are you? Get the idea?
A New Emperor
Finally, in 961, King Otto Of Germany, married to the widow of a king of Italy, invades and becomes king. (An invasion and a wife, trump your nephew.) A year later, he invades Rome and announces he is the new Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.
But things do not change that much. The Emperor is busy feuding with the church, and city-states begin forming to rule themselves.
A New Vice-Queen
Matilda of Tuscany was a powerful feudal Margravine of Tuscany. This title she receives from her father. She is a big supporter of Pope Gregory VII during one of many controversies with the Emperor. With her military know-how and help from friends in the Vatican, Matilda dominates all the territories north of Rome.
She soon acquires a substantial area, including present-day Lombardy, Emilia, Romagna, and Tuscany. To gain her favor, Emperor Henry V crowns her the Vice-Queen of Italy.
Also known as the Great Countess, Matilda is one of the most prominent leaders of the Italian Middle Ages. At a time when the country is going through battles, ex-communications, and other intrigues, she maintains her leadership.
The queen will weather two bad marriages and a smear campaign stating she had an affair with the Pope. Also, there are battle losses. She comes out on top, defeating Henry IV and pushing him out of Italy.
Upon her death in 1115, Matilda is responsible for more than one hundred churches, monasteries, hospices, and bridges. Many of them are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
She also strengthens all the towns and cities, fearing attacks from the Emperor.
The First Republic
Upon the death of Matilda, the Republic of Florence begins forming. The people of Florence are over Tuscany’s rule over them. There were many attempted coups and some successful ones. An up and coming family from Tuscany succeeds in taking control in 1434. Their name is Medici. First wool-gatherers, they soon expand into banking.
The Family from Tuscany
The Medici already have wealth. They run one of the local banks, and therefore can afford to rule.
During this time, the powerful city-states begin knocking down the smaller ones.
Once mighty Siena, Pisa, Urbino, Mantua, and Ferrara lose their political edge.
The Republic of Venice and the Duchy of Milan become bitter rivals.
By 1454, these two city-states and Florence, the Papal States, and Naples control Northern Italy.
When Florence changes alliances to Milan, an uneasy peace comes to northern Italy.
The Medici grow their kingdom. It soon reaches from Florence to the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Lorenzo took control in 1469. He is a great patron of the arts, commissioning works by Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Botticelli. Also, he becomes known as Lorenzo il Magnifico (Lorenzo the Magnificent).
Following his death in 1492, his son takes over.
He is no match for the French king Charles VIII who invades northern Italy in 1493.
The Florentines exile him in 1494, bringing the first period of Medici rule to an end.
A republican government takes control of Florence.
Strike One
Also, the Dominican friar Girolamo Savonarola begins criticizing the immorality of the rich, specifically the Medici.
He influences the ruling class to pass harsh morality laws and destroy signs of their excess.
This preaching leads up to the “Bonfire of the Vanities” in 1497. It is a massive bonfire of books, paintings, sculptures, musical instruments, and jewelry he deems non-religious.
When he goes against the Pope and persuades Florence to side with the French, the Pope has a bonfire. Two other friars who were no longer in favor with the Pope join Savonarola in the fire.
His movement falters without a leader, and in 1512, with help from the Pope, the Medici come back into power.
Within 15 years, the Florentines are fed up with the Medici and drive them out of power again. The people re-establish a republic.
Pope Clement VII creates the Duchy of the Florentine Republic and names Alessandro de’ Medici as the Duke.
This move makes it a hereditary monarchy, instead of a position requiring a vote.
How did the Medici get the Pope on their side? The Pope’s real name is Giulio di Giuliano de’ Medici, NOT a coincidence.
In 1569, he elevated the present Duke of the Florentine Kingdom, as the Grand Duke of Tuscany.
This move makes the Florentines a very little fish in a big pond and eliminates them ousting the Medici. Also, it increases the Medici land holdings and finances dramatically.
A Century of Marriages
Starting in 1547, the Medici make a solid move to secure their strength through marriage.
Catherine de Medici marries King Henry II, making her the Queen of France. Also, her daughters will marry into the royal family of Spain. Except for the Bonapartes, all French royalty will descend from her.
A Medici male, whose bloodline is questionable, marries Margaret of Parma. She is the Governor of the Netherlands.
It does not hurt that her father is Charles V, the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. This union brings Germany and Austria into the family.
Also, during this time, something happens to shake the Papacy, and the Medici hold on it. Martin Luther presented his Ninety-Five Theses on the Power and Efficacy of Indulgences in October 1517.
Monument of Martin Luther
In 1521, John Calvin began publishing his work and writings. These writings create a loose consensus among various churches in Switzerland, Hungary, Germany, Scotland, and elsewhere. The reformation is up and running.
It is not until 1648 that the reformation comes to an end. The signing of the Peace of Westphalia gives each state the right to choose their religion. That is as long as it’s Catholicism, Lutheranism, or Calvinism.
Without the Pope’s backing, the Medici empire began to crumble. Also, the Medici were not producing male heirs. By 1705, the treasury of the grand-ducal was virtually bankrupt.
The Final Curtain
Cosimo III does some altering to the Tuscan laws of succession. This move allows the accession of his daughter, Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici. He spends his final years canvassing the power families of Europe to recognize this statute.
Great Britain, France, the Holy Roman emperor, and the Netherlands respond. They make Charles (later Charles III of Spain) the heir to Parma, Piacenza, and Tuscany in 1718. I October 1723, the last male Medici passes away.
His daughter, Anna Maria Luisa, will remain in the Pitti Palace. Her husband contracts syphilis and is not able to give her a child. She dies in 1743, the last of the Medici family by blood.
She bequeaths the Medici’s art collection to the Tuscan state with conditions. No part of the group can leave Tuscany.
Today, we can thank her for the majority of Florence’s art. These include large parts of the collections of the Uffizi, Palazzo Pitti, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, and Palazzo Vecchio. Also the homes, buildings, and gardens.
The Austrians
In 1737 Emperor Francis Stephen traded Lorraine for the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. He is a shirttail Medici by marriage. He creates the position of governor for the day to day running of the Duchy. They will rule for approximately 60 years until that Frenchman comes to town.
The Guy With the Napoleonic Complex.
1800 and Napoleon comes, sees, and conquers. He creates two states in Italy. One between the Alps in the north and one on the Bay of Naples in the south.
He makes it the Italian Republic in 1802.
Then in 1805, he names it the Kingdom of Italy and appoints himself king.
Napoleon loses his position circa 1814. The Congress of Vienna swoops in to divide. They leave the Kingdom of Italy looking like a puzzle with a few pieces missing.
Florence goes back to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany.
Circa 1859, Tuscany, Parma, Modena, and the Papal Legations form the United Provinces of Central Italy. However, King Victor Emmanuel II of Savoy will not endorse their choice for leader. And he puts his person in place.
Later in the same year, Parma, Modena, and the Papal Legations become part of the Royal Provinces of Emilia.
The next year, Tuscany goes to the Kingdom of Sardinia as a part of the unification of Italy.
Italian Wars of Independence.
By 1860, only five states are remaining in the area that will become modern-day Italy.
- The Kingdom of Sardinia.
- Austria still has the area of Venetia.
- In the middle, there is the Papal States.
- Hidden in the east is the small area of San Marino.
- In the Southern part of the peninsula, you have the Kingdom of the Two Sicily’s. The Kingdom of Naples on the mainland, and the Kingdom of Sicily island.
Giuseppe Garibaldi, representing the Kingdom of Sardinia, sets out in May of 1860. Within a year, both Kingdoms of Sicily are part of Sardinia.
The next year, Victor Emmanuel III assembles the first Italian Parliament in Turin. Parliament proclaims him King of Italy. Italy is born.
Florence as a Capital
In 1865, they moved the capital from Turin to Florence. They immediately begin ripping out old houses and the ancient market.
New streets and buildings go in. They widen the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II (today’s Piazza della Repubblica.) Also, they construct a massive triumphal arch at the west end.
By 1871, all of Italy except the Vatican City, San Martino, and land east of Venice are part of Italy. The capital moves again, this time to Rome.
Florence and the World Wars
With the end of WWI, Italy gets the area east of Venice.
1922 – King Victor Emmanuel III appoints Mussolini as prime minister in an attempt to keep the peace. Mussolini imposes fascism. So much for order. Then in 1939 – Nazi Germany invades Poland. World War II begins.
The following year, Mussolini declares war on France and England. He is hoping to scoop up their lands in Africa for Italy’s expansion. With the Germans already in France, he expects a quick end to the war and significant rewards of land.
1943 – Emmanuel puts Mussolini in jail. Italy quickly signs a truce with the Allied forces, but Germany’s occupation of Italy is too complete. Most of Italy remains under Germany until the end of the war.
For Florence, their freedom comes in August of 1944. The retreating Germans began to demolish all the bridges along the Arno river to slow the Allied troops. The locals convince the Germans to spare the Ponte Vecchio.
The Allied soldiers who died driving the Germans from Tuscany are in cemeteries outside the city. The Florence American Cemetery and Memorial site is approximately 5.6 miles south of the town, on the road to Siena.
Post War Italian History.
After the war, Italy gets a constitution. Florence’s population booms, and their prosperity grows from tourism, trade, and financial services.
Also fashion! For two decades after World War II, Florence was Italy’s fashion capital.
It was home to the first Italian fashion show in 1951 by Roberto Capucci.
It would not be until the 1970s that Milan would take that title.
Several fashion powerhouses began and are still in Florence.
Besides Capucci, you have Roberto Cavalli and Emilio Pucci.
Also, two fashion superstars not only have their corporate and flagship stores in Florence but also their museums. A must on any fashionistas radar.
Salvatore Ferragamo left Hollywood USA in 1927 to set up a shop in Florence. In the same building as their corporate offices, is the Ferragamo Museum
A six-minute walk from the Ferragamo museum/store is the Palazzo della Mercanzia. Inside you will find a museum about a luggage store that began in Florence in 1921. The museum’s name is Gucci Garden.
Watch out, Milan, Florence is becoming a major player in fashion again.
Florence is one of Italy’s most popular cities to visit. Even outside of the summer crush, you should plan on crowds and only seeing a few sites per day.
Don’t Fence Me In
I am taking a quick overview of the walls of Florence.
The outline of the Roman walls is easy to see – from above. If you look at a map, you can see the north-south, east-west grid with the Duomo in the north-east corner.
The Roman walls went five blocks south from here, and eight blocks west.
Today’s Via Roma was the central cardo (north-south road) and today’s Piazza della Republica at the center.
These walls no longer exist or are supports or foundations in existing structures. The city was lower in those days. A small section is visible in the crypt under the Duomo.
The walls did not reach the river as the ground was unstable and would flood often.
The city grows (and shrinks) over the next 1300 years until 1333 when they complete the last set of barriers. Some say this is the fourth set of walls, and others say sixth. I prefer the “last.” Most “experts” are OK with this label.
Some of the gates were over 100 feet tall.
North of the river, they stretch from today’s Ponte alla Vittoria bridge (west) to the Piazza Della Libertà. The Fortezza da Basso is part of this wall. From Piazza Della Libertà, they would stretch to the area by today’s Ponte S Niccolo (east.) The Arno river is making the third side of this triangle.
Very few of these walls remain today except for a few towers. A six-lane avenue (ring road) loops the old section where the walls were standing.
Oltrarno
South of the river, a triangle stretches from just west of Ponte S Niccolo to the Porta Romana. Fort Belvedere is part of this wall. From Porta Romana, the second side of this triangle ran to the Arno, just west of Ponte Amerigo Vespucci. This new wall is the first time the south side of the river has complete protection.
How do we know this? Because a majority of these sections of the wall remain.
You cannot walk on top of the walls, like in other Italian cities. But you can walk beside them and through their gates.
The San Niccolò tower is open in the summer (approx June 24th, until September 30th) in the late afternoon. Admission is by reservation only, and there is no elevator. It offers a different perspective of the city.
Fort Belvedere offers views from its ramparts, which are part of the wall system. It overlooks the Pitti Palace and gardens.
Why do we need to know about the walls? Well, everything inside them is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site: historical Centre of Florence.
What is in Florence for me?
See & Hear.
It is the birthplace of the Renaissance. Also, the playground of Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, and a young Michelangelo. Thanks to the Medici family, it is one of the great museum towns.
In the 1600s, it is the first place in Italy where they combine Greek plays with music. The opera. It does not rival Milan and other cities in opera, but it was the first to have them.
Taste & Smell.
Like anywhere in Italy, the recipes are hundreds of years old, using only fresh ingredients. Where do you think Florentine cuisine began?
Florence is the capital of Tuscany. Even the non-wine drinkers know there are famous Tuscany wines.
Feel.
You can watch the sunrise as you walk along the river Arno. There may be a light fog on the river, and the city has not quite come alive.
Then sit at the Caffè Gilli, dating from 1733. Sip a coffee and enjoy a sweet as you watch the Florentines crisscross the Plazza. There may be better ways to start a morning, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should-See Sites.
Piazza della Libertà
This gate is the northernmost point of the historical center of Florence. They remove the medieval walls to create a wide boulevard around the city by 1865.
Here you can find the Triumphal Arch of the Lorraine, dating from 1739. It marks the arrival of the Habsburg-Lorraine dynasty.
On the same piazza is the Saint Gallo Gate dating from 1285.
Piazza San Marco
A leisurely 15-minute walk from the Piazza della Liberta is this bustling square. Here you can find buses to/from areas outside the historic center—also taxis.
- The Church of San Marco – dating from 1267, has seen many restorations and rebuildings. From 1436–1445, the artist and Franciscan Fra (Friar) Angelico lives here. Some of his work is visible in the museum. (He is no relation to the hazelnut liqueur dating from 1978, that uses a variation of his name.)
Another famous friar from here is Friar Savonarola, responsible for the expelling of the Medici in 1494.
- San Marco Museum – occupies part of the Dominican convent of San Marco. The building, dating from 1436, is by architect Michelozzo. Many of the rooms have frescos by Fra Angelico. Also, there are works by the sixteenth-century Fra Bartolomeo.
- The University of Florence – dating from 1859, has seven campuses, home to twelve schools. Whereas the Medicine, Surgery, and Pharmacology campus is near the hospital, this campus houses the School of Architecture.
- Galleria dell’Accademia – The Galleria foundation dates back to 1784 when the Grand Duke of Tuscany reorganizes the Academy of Arts of Design in Florence. That academy, dating to 1563, was the idea of Cosimo I de ‘Medici.
The original Michelangelo’s David once stood in the Piazza della Signoria.
The city realizes that rain and other weather are slowly destroying the statue.
They relocate the sculpture to the Accademia circa 1863.
Other pieces of art at the Accademia include several unfinished works by Michelangelo. You have to see these in person — any minute you expect them to move.
Piazza del Duomo.
- Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore – (Duomo) dominates the Florence skyline. Construction began in 1296. The multiple colors of marble on the outside make it unique. The dome is like no other. You can climb to the vault or descend to the Crypt of Santa Reparata underneath.
- The Baptistery of St. John – is one of the oldest buildings in the city, dating back to 1128 AD. The Baptistery is famous for the three sets of bronze doors with relief sculptures. Lorenzo Ghiberti did the north and east doors. On seeing the east doors, Michelangelo dubbed them the Gates of Paradise.
- Giotto’s Bell Tower – Stands next to the cathedral on the Piazza del Duomo. Rising 277 feet into the sky, it dates from 1334. The climb to the observation level is more than 400 steps, but worth it for a hike.
Between the Piazza del Duomo and Della Signoria.
- Church and Museum of Orsanmichele – The building, dating from 1337, was originally a grain market. They convert it into a church for the craft and trade guilds of Florence in 1380. On the ground floor, you can see the 13th-century arches of the original loggia of the grain market. The second floor would be offices, and the third floor, the grain storehouses.
The sculptures decorating the outside are copies. Due to weather and pollution, the originals, after restoration, are now inside this museum.
- Loggia del Mercato Nuovo (Mercato del Porcellino) – dating from 1551, was for selling precious jewelry and textiles. Today, it is an open market for leather and souvenirs. A bronze statue of a wild boar gives it the name Market of the piglet.
Piazza della Signoria
This square has been the political center of Florence for more than 700 years.
- Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace) – is a striking building dating from 1300 that today serves as the City Hall. They build it around the already existing Arnolfo tower. Its original name was the Palazzo della Signoria, hence the name of the square it overlooks.
Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici makes it his home and office in 1540.
Nine years later, he moves his residence to the Pitti Palace, renaming this building to the Old Palace. It remains as the seat of civic government in Florence.
Also, for fans of Dan Brown’s “Inferno,” you can see Dante’s Death Mask.
Outside
- The David – you see here is a replica. It stands where the original David stood. The statue was to be one of the prophets lining the east roof of the Duomo. When the Medici’s see the brave face of the figure, they place it outside the government building.
Florence is the “David” facing many Goliaths. David’s defiant stare is looking towards Rome. (See this one first.)
- Loggia dei Lanzi – stands on the south (river) side of the piazza. Dating from 1382, they build it for assemblies of the people and public ceremonies. The Medici’s have the roof rebuilt as a terrace so they can watch general meetings from above. Above the arches are the four cardinal virtues, Fortitude, Temperance, Justice, and Prudence.
Today it is an open-air sculpture gallery with marble and bronze statues. The two male lions with their paw on a globe were once in front of the Medici palace. They are by two different artists.
Other Exteriors on the Piazza
- Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali – is on the west side of the piazza. The Assicurazioni Generali build it in 1871 for their local office with additional spaces for other businesses.
In front of the building is the Cafe Rivoire. Dating from 1872, the Rivoire family ran it until 1978. Between those years, it was a must-go place for Florentines of all ages. Today, you will see more tourists than locals.
- Palazzo Uguccioni – sits on the northeast side of the piazza. It is the only building in Florence with columns on the exterior. Construction began in 1550, and it was a residential palace for Giovanni Uguccioni. Depending on which guide book you have, it is the design of Raphael, or Michelangelo, or Ammannati. Raphael’s or Bramante’s “new” architecture may be an influence on its final exterior, but they are not the designer. Also, the cafes in front are usually full of tourists. (hint, hint)
- Tribunale della Mercanzia (Tribunal of Merchandise) – is between the Palazzo Uguccioni and the Palazzo Vecchio. The building dates from 1359 and has a significant restoration and addition in 1905. Initially, it was a tribunal for merchants where lawyers would attempt to solve discrepancies.
Today, it serves as the home of the Museo Gucci.
Piazzale degli Uffizi
Not officially in the Piazza della Signoria, you will find it between the Palazzo Vecchio and the Loggia dei Lanzi.
- Uffizi Gallery – is in a building dating from 1560 A.D. Originally, it was the Magistrates’ building. There were 13 offices of those in charge of overseeing production and trade. These were on the ground floor. The administrative offices and workshops for making precious objects were on the upper level. An elevated passage still connects this building to the Palazzo Vecchio.
Around 1580, Francesco I, Grand Duke, creates the first museum section on the second floor. This space was a place to showcase some of the treasures of the Medici’s growing collections. Just about every Grand Duke to follow would enlarge or enhance the building as the treasures kept accumulating.
Around 1737, Anna Maria, the last living Medici, comes up with the Family Pact. It leaves the family’s art collections to Florence, decreeing that they can never leave their locations.
Some of the best-known pieces include Portrait of Pope Leo X with Two Cardinals by Raphael. There is an early Da Vinci, The Annunciation, which was a collaboration with his master Andrea del Verrocchio. Works include the Medusa by Caravaggio and the Doni Tondo (Holy Family), a panel painting by Michelangelo. Perhaps the most famous is the Birth of Venus by Botticelli.
Nearby the Uffizi
- The Vasari Corridor – connects the Uffizi with the Pitti Palace (Medici residence) across the river. They add this in 1565 as a way for the Medici to move about out of the weather and public. Also for personal safety.
- Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) – At the south end of the Piazzale degli Uffizi is the Arno river. There is an excellent view of the Ponte Vecchio, the only bridge to survive WWII.
The bridge first appears in documents from 996. It is possible the stone piers date from the first Roman bridge. It remains the only bridge in Florence until 1218. The current bridge dates from 1345 after a massive flood washes everything away but two stone piers.
Locals persuade the fleeing Germans not to destroy the bridge due to its historical importance. The Germans leave the bridge. But destroy the medieval buildings on either side, blocking access across the river by the Allied Forces.
There have always been shops along the sides of the bridge. Originally they were butcher shops. Legend has it that when the Medici family moves to the Pitti Palace, the butchers have to go. The smell offends their delicate noses. Today the tenants are jewelers, art dealers, and tourist souvenir sellers. Expect to pay more for the location.
East versus West
EAST
- The Synagogue and Museum of Florence – dates from 1882. It is one of Europe’s most excellent examples of Moorish, Arabic, and Byzantine architecture in one structure. The Jewish Community in Florence (Tuscany) begins in 1437. Cosimo de’ Medici encourages Jews to come to Florence as money lenders.
The Ghetto, the property of the Medici, sits near the seat of government but not within sight. Their “segregate but not expel” philosophy shows the importance of the Jews to the Medici banking. The Ghetto will remain from 1570 until 1835.
During the Italian unification into one Kingdom of Italy, the Jews of Tuscany receive citizenship in 1861. In 1870, David Levi, President of the Jewish Community, dies and leaves his entire estate for building a synagogue. It must be worthy of the city of Florence. Construction began in 1874.
Santa Croce Neighborhood
- Casa Buonarroti – Is a museum collection that the descendants of Michelangelo (1475-1564 ) began in 1612 in their house. This house is not the home of Michelangelo. Here, you can see a few of his early works and numerous drawings. It is the most extensive collection of his pictures anywhere.
Do not confuse this with his childhood home where Via dei Bentaccordi and Via dell’ Anguillara meet.
- Basilica of Santa Croce in Florence (Basilica of the Holy Cross) – is the principal Franciscan church in Florence. They build the first church in marshland outside the city walls around 1210. They donate it to Saint Francis during his visit in 1212.
The current church, dating from 1294, is within the new walls of the city that extend to the east.
They also call the church the Temple of the Italian Glories. Galileo, Machiavelli, the composer Rossini, and Michelangelo now reside here. Do not miss the cloisters to the east of the church.
Roman Amphitheater
Stand at the west end of Piazza Santa Croce, with the church behind you. You will see a building (#1) with arched windows on the ground and first floor. There is a small fountain across from the front door and a street on either side of it. Look down the road (Via Torta) on the right side of the building. Notice how the building behind it curves? After many redesigns and repairs, you can still see the northern end of the Roman Amphitheater.
Stay in the square, facing the arena, and turn left. Walk down Via dei Benci. Turn through the first archway you come to on your right. You can see the southern end. I like this end better as you can see more of the original structure.
- Bargello National Museum – is in the Palazzo del Podestà. It is an incredible fortified tower dating from 1255. The museum houses masterpieces by Michelangelo, including his Bacchus, Madonna and Child, Brutus, and the David-Apollo. The first floor includes works by Donatello, including the bronze St George and his bronze of David.
Other artists include Gemito, Sansovino, Bernini, and more. Besides the statues and bronzes, they also have ceramics, tapestries, ivory, silver, armor, and coins.
- Museum of Opera of Saint Maria of Fiore – Before you say you don’t like opera, this is not about a fat lady singing. The opera, dating from 1296, was in charge of the construction of the Duomo.
Since then, they have been responsible for the archiving, restoration, and general upkeep of the Duomo, bell tower, and Baptistery.
Here you can see many of the original masterpieces after restoration. These include the original baptistery doors — also Donatello’s Saint Mary Magdalene.
Piazza della Santissima Annunziata
- Fontana Del Tacca (Fountains of the Two Sea monsters) – The two fountains, dating from 1641, sit at either side of the square. Pietro Tacca, the artist, was initially creating them for the Monument of the Four Moors in Livorno.
- Ospedale degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocents) dating from 1419, is a historic building by Brunelleschi. He is one of the masters of Renaissance architecture. It begins as a children’s orphanage. It is a present to the city from the Silk Guild, one of the wealthiest guilds in the city. Andrea della Robbia is the artist who creates the blue-colored terracotta medallions on the exterior.
Until 1660, people would place babies for adoption in a basin out front. They would replace this with a rotating horizontal wheel (think a lazy-susan.) The platform takes the baby into the building while protecting the parent’s identity. This system of anonymously putting a baby up for adoption was in operation until 1875.
Literary fans may remember Lucy from E. M. Forster’s novel “A Room with a View.” She expresses her preference for “the Della Robbia babies,” referring to the blue medallions.
They continue to take care of illegitimate, abandoned, or endangered babies into the 1900s. New legislation beginning in 1924, starts the creation of the foster home and orphanage system Italy has today.
Fun Fact
Franco Zeffirelli (born 1923), the Italian movie director, spent time here. His mother dies when he is six, and he comes to the hospital. He spends several years here and under the auspices of the English expatriate group called the Scorpioni. These ladies and the hospital are in his semi-autobiographical film Tea with Mussolini (1999).
Since 2016, the building houses a small museum of Renaissance art and a fascinating Museum to the Innocenti.
- Basilica della Santissima Annunziata – is a Renaissance-style Roman Catholic minor basilica dating from 1250. Refurbishing in the 17th century adds Baroque-style decorations.
- Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Firenze (National Archaeological Museum of Florence) – is in the Palazzo della Crocetta. The building is the 16th-century residence of princess Maria Maddalena de’ Medici. It has various thematic areas, including an impressive Egyptian collection, an Etruscan section, and a room of life-size bronzes.
Along the River
- Museo Galileo – is along the Arno River, a 3-minute walk east of the Ponte Vecchio bridge. The collection of scientific instruments began in 1562 by Cosimo I Medici. Later, Medici and then Lorraine Grand Dukes kept adding to the group.
Today, it is one of the largest groups of scientific instruments in the world. The museum is in Palazzo Castellani, a building from the 11th-century.
A Case of Two Da Vincis
- Davinci Museum – is an interactive museum for those who like moving parts. There are more than 40 displays of his machines as well as multimedia presentations of his artwork. Great for the “hands-on” person.
This Davinci museum is one block east of our centerline (via Ricasoli) connecting the Accademia to the Duomo.
- Le Macchine di Leonardo – is another Da Vinci museum. This private museum, one block west of via Ricasoli, focuses on models of his inventions. It is also hands-on. It does not go into his artwork like the other museum but has more models.
For an overall view of Da Vinci, go to the first museum. If you want more in-depth into his inventions, go to this museum. For the real kid at heart, do both.
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Piazza di San Lorenzo
- Basilica of San Lorenzo – is one of the largest and oldest churches in Florence. Dating from 393, it was originally outside the city walls. Until the 600s, it acts as the city’s cathedral.
But its central claim to fame is as the parish church of the Medici family. In 1419, the Medici finance a new church by architect Brunelleschi.
Today, the church is part of a monastic complex containing other important architectural and works:
- The Old Sacristy (Sagrestia Vecchia) is inside the basilica and part of the Brunelleschi design for the Medici family. It dates from 1440 and holds the tombs of three Medici. The decoration is by Donatello.
- The Laurentian Library – dating from 1571, is one of Michelangelo’s most notable architectural achievements. It holds 11,000 manuscripts and 4,500 books, the private library of the Medici family. It is a clear statement to the Florentines that the Medici’s are no longer merchants.
- Cappelle Medicee (Medici Chapels) – are two additional structures to the basilica. Their purpose is to tout the Medici family’s importance.
- The New Sacristy (Sagrestia Nuova) is with a design and monuments by Michelangelo. He departs for Rome in 1534 before the chapel’s completion. The original plan is for four tombs, including Lorenzo the Magnificent and his brother Giuliano. Michaelangelo never starts the monuments for these two.
- Cappella dei Principi – sits above the New Sacristy and dates from the early 1600s. This larger chapel is a showy display of marble inlays with semi-precious stones.
Also on the Square
- Riccardi Medici Palace – dating from 1460, Michelozzo designs this palace for the Medici family. Today, it is a grand house, an art museum, and a famous chapel. It is adjacent to the basilica in the same square.
Piazza Santa Maria Novella
The square was the setting for Cosimo I Medici’s yearly chariot race (Palio dei Cocchi). Starting in 1563, horses would race around the two Obelisks of the Corsa dei Cocchi, a make-shift Roman circus. The tradition would continue into the 1800s.
Basilica of Santa Maria Novella – dating from 1360, is the first magnificent basilica in Florence. It is the main church of the Dominican Order. The church contains an impressive collection of Gothic and early Renaissance art treasures and funerary monuments.
Outside, an exterior arcade on the east side of the church includes family crests of many of the church’s benefactors. They are paying for a better spot in the after-life.
Piazza della Repubblica
Strozzi Palace – is two blocks off Piazza della Repubblica (through the victory arch.) The building, dating from 1538, was the vision of Filippo Strozzi, the Elder. It would surpass anything the Medici family had at that time.
Unfortunately, he dies during construction. The remains in the Strozzi family until 1937. Today they hold public events here and the Center of Contemporary Culture.
For Fun
- Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore – is a three-minute walk north of the Strozzi Palace. The exterior walls date from the 11th-century. The interiors are from the early 17th-century. The exterior is relatively straightforward, with stone walls. That’s why a Roman bust of a lady sticking out of the bell tower wall is unique.
The locals call her Berta. Legend (that means stuff they make up) says she receives a curse after refusing water to a condemned man. If you’re walking in the area, stop by and try to spot her. IMPORTANT – Always be looking up, sideways, and behind you. Everywhere you look, there are fantastic views of Florence.
Taste Florence
Oltrarno (over the Arno)
The south side of the river has settlements dating back to the 4th century A.D. It does not take off until the 1200s when new bridges link the two sides. However, it is outside the walls until 1333. At first, its residents are workers and craftsmen looking for cheap housing.
Towards the end of the 15th-Century, the rich come looking for large tracts of land to build their palaces. Around Piazza Santo Spirito, along with Via dei Bardi and the Via Maggio, they put up their displays of excess.
And we cannot talk about Florence palaces without mentioning the one built by banker Luca Pitti. It takes more than 20 years to c, and Pitti dies before its completion.
Eleonora di Toledo sets out in 1549 to acquire the palace. As the wife of Cosimo I de’ Medici, she takes the residence from large to grandiose. To do this, they bring in artisans to decorate their palaces.
There are painters, sculptors, gilders, engravers, silk-makers, mosaic artisans, goldsmiths, and carpenters. Many of their descendants are keeping these crafts alive today.
In 1860 the Savoia royal family chose the Palazzo Pitti as the royal palace for the new Kingdom of Italy.
Today, the Oltrarno is still the Bohemian area of town. As soon as you cross the bridge, you feel you are no longer in old Florence. The craftsmen are still here. Locals meet in the piazzas and cafes.
Should See in the Oltrarno
- The Palazzo Pitti – today is a grand residence, museum, event space, and garden. You can visit the Royal Apartments and the kitchen. The Treasury of the Grand Dukes includes frescoed walls, semi-precious stone vases, ambers, silverware, and jewelry. Museums include the Palatine Gallery, Gallery of Modern Art, and Museum of Costume and Fashion.
- The Boboli Gardens – dating from 1549, are the Palazzo Pitti grounds and one of the most notable examples of an Italian garden. As you stroll, you will see ancient and Renaissance statues, caves, and fountains, including the Fountain of Neptune. You could spend several hours walking on many levels.
- La Specola – is down Via Romana from the Pitti. It is one of four locations of the Museo di Storia Naturale (Natural History.) The collections at this location include Zoology and Natural History. Many parts of the group are from the Medici Family.
The setting is the former Palazzo Torrigani, which also deserves a glance. The 34 rooms contain displays of fossils, animals, minerals, plants, and a collection of anatomical waxes used for teaching medicine. A popular exhibit with kids is the stuffed hippopotamus, a former resident of the Boboli Gardens.
Further Down the Road
- Cenacolo della Calza – dating from the 1300s, began as a hospital run by the Dames of Malta. They are members of the Hospitaller Order of St. John of Jerusalem. The highlight is a 1514 painting of the Last Supper.
Today, the hospital turned convent is a visitor center and conference hall. It is a 10-minute walk along Via Romana from La Specola.
- Porta Romana – is across the piazza from the Cenacolo della Calza. It is the southern-most part of the walls and historic section of Florence.
Dividing it Up
From Palazzo Pitti to the Porta Romana, the Via Romana almost splits the Oltrarno triangle in half. The Palazzo Pitti and gardens take up a large portion of the eastern half. But there are are a few other things worth seeing. In addition to the remaining walls and Forte di Belvedere there are:
East
- Casa di Galileo Galilei – Is two side-by-side houses where the Galilei family would live from 1621 on. Today, #19 Costa S. Giorgio, is a private residence. On the exterior, you can see the coat of arms of the Galilei family and a portrait of Galileo.
Costa S. Giorgio stretches from the Piazza di Santa Maria Sopr’Arno, (just east of the Ponte Vecchio) to the upper walls. From the archway in the piazza, it is a steady 15-20 minute uphill climb to the walls and fort. The entrance to the Bardini Gardens is nearby. Fort Belvedere is to the right. The casa makes an excellent excuse to stop for a minute.
- Giardino Bardini – is a beautiful Italianate garden overlooking the city. Today, it also includes an English Woods and an agricultural Park with fruit trees and wisteria. There is also a traditional Tuscan garden, season permitting. It is a beautiful escape that many tourists never find — just locals and travelers.
After years of restoration, the Villa Bardini opens in 2006 to the public. Cultural events take place throughout the year. For those walking, there is an entrance at #2 Costa S. Giorgio. The gardens are on a hillside, and paths are gravel with steps.
Further Up the Hill
- Piazzale Michelangelo – is a lookout over the city. The Iconic photo of Historic Florence, with the Duomo in the middle, is from here. If you are on a city tour by coach, you will probably make a photo stop here.
If walking, the best route is through the Porta San Miniato Gate. Sunsets, although not great for photos of the city as you are shooting west, are incredible as sunsets go.
- San Miniato al Monte – is a basilica up the hill from the Piazzale Michelangelo. The current church, dating from 1013, is one of the most beautiful Romanesque structures in Tuscany.
Monks in the adjoining monastery make liqueurs, honey, and herbal teas, which they sell. There are only a few great views of the city due to trees.
West
Basilica di Santo Spirito – dating from 1496, is a church with a design by Brunelleschi. The outside is rather dull, giving you no preparation for the inside. Once inside, the architecture and decoration will take you to the 1400s.
Chapels include those of the Frescobaldi, Cini, Dainelli da Bagnano, and Corbinelli families. Works by all the local Renaissance masters are everywhere, including a crucifix by the young Michelangelo.
Where the Fat Lady First Sang
Opera was born in Florence. Around 1575, a group of musicians and poets (Florentine Camerata) experiment with adding music and lyrics to tell a story.
In 1597, composer Jacopo Peri teams with Florentine poet Ottavio Rinuccini to elevate the art form. They create a musical homage to Greek tragedy. Their “work” (Opera) is a hit.
His next commission is to write an opera for the wedding of King Henry IV to Maria de Medici. With that audience (and patrons) they attract, opera is soon popping up everywhere,
There are many places to see opera in Florence. The Teatro dell’ Opera di Firenze, dating from 2011, is home to opera, dance, and the symphony. They present a winter season, as well as the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino (Florence Musical May.) This annual Italian art festival includes an opera festival, presenting contemporary and rarely produced operas.
The Teatro della Pergola is an opera house in the eastern part of the historic area. The building, opening in 1656, is under the patronage of the Medici. It has superposed tiers of boxes instead of stadium (Roman) seating. It is the oldest opera house in Italy.
Today they offer more than 250 performances a year, including plays, concerts, dance, symphony, and opera.
Day Trips
The possibility of day trips out of Florence is numerous.
Bus trips of various length depart almost daily for Siena, San Gimignano, Lucca, Pisa, and the Tuscan wine country, to name a few. You can also reach many by train.
Florence Summary
In a word, overwhelming. A medieval town, Italian masterpieces, and the birthplace of the Renaissance. There is traditional cuisine to smell and taste, including protected designation of origin (PDO) products. And we did not even mention the local wines.
As you walk the streets of the Oltrarno, you can’t help but feel you are in another time.
Then there are the numerous side trips, many less than 90-minutes drive away. Although most of them deserve more than half a day.
This region is one part of Italy you should not miss. Why are you waiting?