Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD SEE BERGAMO.
UPPER CITY.
SAN PELLEGRINO.
Bergamo has an Upper City on the UNESCO World Heritage List. They have numerous products with PDO status. There are beautiful views and masterpieces of the Italian Renaissance and Baroque art. So how come you have yet to visit?
Sitting between the Italian Alps and the metropolis of Milan, Bergamo has not one, but two cities. An upper and a lower.
You would possibly think that Bergamo’s birth comes at the hands of the Romans, but it doesn’t. Long before the Romans arrive, there is the settlement of Bergomum. The Cenomani (Celtic tribe), from what is now France, set up home sometime between 500 – 100 B.C.
The Romans finally arrive in 49 B.C. and make it a municipality. It becomes an essential stop on the Roman military road between Friuli (northeast of Venice) and Raetia (west.) At its peak, there are probably 10,000 people working and living there.
Ain’t He a Hun.
All is going well until 450 A.D. Attila (the Hun,) after failing to conquer areas of France, turns his sites on Rome. It takes him very little time to defeat the small towns between the Alps and Rome. However, he is not able to overthrow the major city.
Regrouping for another attack, he dies in 453, and the Huns collapse without a strong leader. Bergomum is back under Roman control.
Middle Ages
This arrangement lasts about a hundred years until the Lombards (Germanic group) begin to conquer Italy. They establish an early medieval state and elect a king. The country is a collection of Duchies, with dukes ruling and reporting to the king. The capital of the kingdom and the center of its political life is Pavia, south of Milan. It will hold this position from 572 to 774.
The Lombards, instead of forcing their customs and language on the people, begin to pick up Roman mannerisms and traditions. They also convert to Catholicism. By the mid 700’s their Germanic traits are gone.
The Holy Roman Empire
In 774, Charlemagne, the king of the Franks, conquers The Kingdom of the Lombards. Bergamo will remain under the Holy Roman Empire for hundreds of years.
By the 11th-century A.D., Bergamo is an independent commune and a member of the Lombard League, which supports the Pope behind the back of the Holy Roman Emperor.
Eventually, fighting between the Pope and the Emperor took up all of their time, and the city-states and duchies took control. Fighting breaks out at this level between the city-states and dynasties.
In Bergamo, Omodeo Tasso, patriarch of one of the local dynasties, begins organizing the city’s couriers. This move leads to a local communication system and, later, the first modern postal service.
From the 1400s to the end of the 1700s, Bergamo, well, all of Italy, is in turmoil. Cities against kingdoms against dynasties, with the Pope and the Emperor sticking their nose in from time to time.
One week, Bergamo is under this kingdom. The next week they are being ruled by that city-state. The following week who knows.? During this time, all towns, villages, and cities are increasing their levels of fortification. They create new bastions that can withstand modern artillery.
The Guy With the Napoleonic Complex.
1800 and Napoleon comes, sees, and conquers. He creates two states in Italy. One between the Alps in the north and one on the Bay of Naples in the south. Circa 1802, he changes this to the Italian Republic. Then in 1805, he names it the Kingdom of Italy and appoints himself king.
By 1814 Napoleon abandons his position. The Congress of Vienna swoops in to divide. They leave the Kingdom of Italy looking like a puzzle with a few pieces missing. Bergamo goes to the Kingdom of Lombardy–Venetia, under the Austrian Empire.
Italian Wars of Independence.
From 1848 until 1860, Italy goes through two Wars of Independence, and another Napoleon.
By 1860, only five states are remaining in the area that will become modern-day Italy.
- The Kingdom of Sardinia.
- Austria still has the area of Venetia.
- In the middle, there is the Papal States.
- Hidden in the east is the small area of San Marino.
- In the Southern part of the peninsula, you have the Kingdom of the Two Sicily’s. The Kingdom of Naples on the mainland, and the Kingdom of Sicily island.
Giuseppe Garibaldi, representing the Kingdom of Sardinia, sets out in May of 1860. Within a year, both Kingdoms of Sicily are part of Sardinia.
The next year, Victor Emmanuel III assembles the first Italian Parliament in Turin. Parliament proclaims him King of Italy. Italy is born.
By 1871, all of Italy except the Vatican City, San Martino, and land east of Venice are part of Italy.
World Wars
With the end of WWI, Italy gets the area east of Venice.
1922 – King Victor Emmanuel III appoints Mussolini as prime minister in an attempt to keep the peace. Mussolini imposes fascism. So much for peace. Then in 1939 – Nazi Germany invades Poland. World War II begins.
The following year, Mussolini declares war on France and England. He is hoping to scoop up their lands in Africa for Italy’s expansion. With the Germans already in France, he expects a quick end to the war and significant rewards of land.
1943 – Emmanuel puts Mussolini in jail. Italy quickly signs a truce with the Allied forces, but Germany’s occupation of Italy is too complete. They remain under Germany until the end of the war.
Bergamo manages to stay out of the direct line of fire. Although there are human atrocities, the towns in the area go unscathed.
Post War Italian History.
After the war, Italy gets a constitution. Bergamo continues to grow as an industrial region.
Today, Bergamo’s primary industries are manufacturing, agriculture, and transportation. Tourism is relatively low in comparison, although on a July or August day, that will be hard to believe.
What is in Bergamo for me?
See & Hear.
It is the hometown of an Italian composer, and there is a grand theater with his name on it. In the fall, they have a festival of his work.
There is a medieval town, bursting with exciting nooks and crannies. Views of the countryside are breath-taking from the walls and towers.
Taste & Smell.
They don’t buy pre-made meals; they prepare them. Fresh ingredients make a difference in the smell and taste of their cuisine. They also have nine Protected designations of origin (PDO) cheeses.
Feel.
You can watch the sunrise from one of the city walls. Then, grab a coffee and find a medieval piazza all to yourself. Listen to the birds, watch the sun’s rays inch across the walls.
Watch a village come to life. There may be better ways to start a morning, but this way doesn’t suck.
Should-See Sites.
The Lower City.
Unfortunately, many people blow right past this area in a bee-line to get to the Upper City. That’s a shame as there are several jewels scattered about the lower town.
- Ferrovie delle Valli palace – This train station, dating from 1906, is to your right as you exit the Bergamo train station. From here, people would board connecting trains heading to the Seriana and Brembana Valley. And just beyond, the Grand Hotel, Casino and spa of San Pellegrino. It is one of the few buildings in the Liberty-style of architecture remaining. Unfortunately, the trains to San Pellegrino no longer run, and the station sits empty. But it takes very little imagination to see what it used to resemble.
Along the Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII and the Viale Roma
- Casa Paleni Liberty – dating from 1904, is one of the more interesting buildings along the Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII. The house looks traditional, but take a closer look at the door and window frames. Also, admire the concrete decorations on the facade. This decoration was trendsetting at the time. The Paleni Company, who did the decorations, also created the sculptures for the face of the nearby church.
- Chiesa Prepositurale di Santa Maria Immacolata delle Grazie – (dating 1857 to 1875.) It is the new Santa Maria church. When they tear down the old one to extend the city, they build this one nearby. Paleni figures adorn the exterior facade.
- Propylaea of Porta Nuova – Dating from 1837, these two identical Roman (neo-classical) temples mark the ceremonial entrance to the city at that time. To build them, they tear down the old convent and church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Also, the medieval walls. Today, they are small stores and a florist.
Piazza Giacomo Matteotti Area.
- Teatro Donizetti – The current building, dating from 1800, honors the hometown boy, Gaetano Donizetti. Alongside Rossini and Bellini, he was a leading Italian composer of the bel canto style of opera. (circa 1515-45). In October and November, they present three of his operas during the Donizetti Festival. If you get a chance, any performance is an experience in this theater. In the Upper City, 5 minutes walk from the Basilica, is the Museum of Donizetti. Here you can learn of the life, work, and personality of Donizetti.
- Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II and the Obelisco a Napoleone Bonaparte are in the piazza. Try to find the Monumento Al Partigiano which commemorates the Italian Resistance movement. It has a different perspective on things.
- Palazzo Frizzoni – (City Hall) dating from 1840, is 1/2 block to the left of the Piazza. It was originally a private home for the Frizzoni family.
- Santi Bartolomeo e Stefano – a Baroque church dating from 1642, is two blocks to the right of the Piazza. In addition to its beautiful paintings, and frescos are treasures from the previous church.
- Torre dei Caduti – marks the west side of the Piazza. This tower is a memorial to the fallen people of WWI. Inside is a brief history of the building and a staircase to the 6th-floor observation deck.
Also, in the Lower City
- Accademia Carrara – In 1796, Count Giacomo Carrara left the city his art collection, money, and a wish for an art academy. By 1810, the academy was already multiplying at such speed that they built the neoclassical palace the Accademia is still in today. The collection now numbers more than 1,800 paintings dating from the 15th to the 19th century. Artists include Pisanello, Botticelli, Bellini, Carpaccio, and Raphael, to name a few.
- Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea (GAMEC) – is the modern collection of the Accademia Carrara. In 1991, they built a modern gallery across the street for this growing collection. Artists on display here, predominantly Italian, include Boccioni, Morandi, Campigli, Savinio, and Manzù.
- Piazza Pontida – is a 10-minute walk west of the Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, following the pedestrian walkway of Via XX Settembre. This area is famous for the after-work / before-dinner apperativo crowd.
- Matris Domini Monastery – in the lower city, is a female monastery that hosts a museum of medieval frescoes with religious themes.
- Funicolare Citta’ Alta – is a quick, easy way between the lower city and the upper city. It also lets you skip trying to decipher the parking and street signs in the Upper City.
The Citta Alta. Upper City
The first time you see it in the distance, you understand why UNESCO put it on its list of World Heritage Sites.
The Piazza Vecchia
- Palazzo del Podestà – The current building, dating from 1513, was the restoration of a building from the 1200s. It was first the residence of the Suardi-Colleoni families who were the town’s Chief Magistrate. For three hundred years, it was the center for public functions. A footbridge connects it with the Palazzo della Ragione. During restoration beneath the building, Roman remains and structures emerge. These include walls and the remains of workshops, determining the absolute location of the previous Roman Forum. Today it is home to the History Museum.
- Palazzo della Ragione – dating from the 12th century, has been the town hall, a courthouse, and a theater. Today it has a small museum exhibiting the remains of an ancient cathedral and religious artifacts.
- Torre Civica – is the name of the 12th-century bell tower. Locals also call it Campanone. At 10:00 PM, it tolls 100 times to announce the closing of the cities gates.
- Contarini Fountain – is in the middle of the Piazza and dates to 1780. It was a gift from the chief magistrate Alvise Contarini to provide fresh water.
- Palazzo Nuovo (New Palace) was acting as Bergamo’s Town Hall until 1873. Today, it is home to the Angelo Mai Library. Its collection includes ancient books, engravings, manuscripts, and other priceless artifacts, dating to the 1500s.
Piazza del Duomo
This Piazza is adjacent to the Piazza Vecchia.
- Santa Maria Maggiore – is a church dating from 1137, sitting on another church, and a Roman temple. Although they manage to build the high altar and the presbytery quickly, it will take 200 years to complete. The bell tower dates from 1436.
- Cappella Colleoni – In 1472, Bartolomeo Colleoni, from one of the city’s prominent families, tears down part of Santa Maria. He builds a chapel dedicated to Bartholomew, Mark, and John the Baptist for his daughter Medea. It has numerous ornate marble porches and decoration on the outside. The inside includes lavishly carved statues and various tapestries.
- Duomo di Bergamo, Cattedrale di Sant’Alessandro (Bergamo Cathedral) – is the Roman Catholic cathedral of Bergamo. Saint Alexander is the patron saint of the city. With parts dating from the 1400s, much of the church now dates from restorations in the 1500s, 1600s, and 1800s. The exterior gives you no preparation for what’s inside.
- The Baptistry – is outside near the cathedral. The octagonal building, dating from 1340, was dismantled and moved to its present site in 1889.
Also, in the Upper City
- Torre del Gombito – is the tallest tower in the Upper City and dates from the 1100s. Today it serves as a travel information office and lookout. The 263 steps will take you up 170 feet for a birds-eye view.
- The Ex-convent of San Francesco – is in the upper town. Dating from the 13th century, it is a remarkable example of medieval monastic architecture. It is known for its cycles of frescoes dating from the 14th to 17th centuries. The views of the Brembana and Seriana valleys from the terrace are “heavenly.”
Today it also houses the museum’s offices, archives, and library. Check for temporary exhibitions.
- The Rocca Museum – is a five-minute walk from the Ex-Convento and set within the walls of a fortress dating back to the 14th century. For history buffs, the museum will add depth to the history of the creation of Italy. For anyone, the views from the top of the tower are glorious.
- The Venetian walls – still have approximately three miles of a navigatable area you can walk along. There are numerous views in and out of the city.
Outside the City
West
The Church of San Tome – is located west of Bergamo. This round shaped chapel, dating from the 14th-century, is in the middle of nowhere. This location probably points to this being a graveyard at one time, although no firm evidence is available. An adjacent monastery later became a farmhouse. Today it is used for small meetings. It is worth a detour if you are traveling between Bergamo and Lecco.
South
Malpaga Castle of Cavernago – is just south of Bergamo. A previous medieval castle on the site is lying in ruins. Bartolomeo Colleoni (of the chapel story) acquires the castle around 1456. It may have been as a military base for his troops. However, it is never heavily fortified, indicating it was more a country residence. It remains in the Colleoni family until the last heir passes in the early 1900s. The castle sits empty for several decades until it is purchased and undergoes renovations in the late 1900s. Today, its primary use is for meetings and weddings.
Northeast
Val (valley) Seriana – is one of two scenic valleys due north of Bergamo and slightly to the east. For travelers needing a day of few tourists, this may be the answer. Plan on a half-day of exploring its numerous little towns. The medieval village of Gromo is about one hour’s drive north of Bergamo. Half a day allows you to see its castle, which you can almost reach by car and some other towns. These include Alzano, Gandino, and Casnigoto. If you get to Clusone, see the 15th-century Danse Macabre, on the exterior wall of the Oratorio. Then reward yourself with a cookie from the pastry shop on the Piazza. To make a full-day outing, detour east to Lovere, on the northwest end of Lake Iseo. You can visit the Tadini Gallery of Art, dating from 1826, or explore the Basilica di Santa Maria in Valvendra from 1473. I like a walk along the lakefront and a lunch overlooking the water. Think Como 30 years ago.
Northwest
Val Brembana – is the next valley west from Seriana. About a 50-minute drive from Bergamo will bring you to Piazza Brembana. Here you can go left and in less than 30 minutes, be in Valtorta. Here you can sample local cheeses that are not available anywhere else. Sample them at the local cheese co-op.
Turn right at Piazza Brembana, and you are soon in Branzi. This area is the beginning of a serious snow skiing country (winter) or strenuous hiking in the summer. San Giovanni Bianco is just a charming village that will make you feel like you are in… the Alps. Keep your eyes peeled for Cornello dei Tasso, or you will drive right under it. This town is a hidden jewel. There is a medieval village frozen in time. The town is on a hill (Corno), and the Tasso family was living here and inventing the modern postal system. In the village is the Museo dei Tasso that explains the procedure. Genius for the time. You access the town via Camarata Cornello. You can drive close to the medieval village, but the last several hundred feet are over dirt and cobblestone paths. There is also a path up from the road along the river for those needing a workout.
San Pellegrino
To me, this is the jewel of the Via Brembana. It is a bittersweet experience. People have been coming to drink the mineral water ( yes, THAT mineral water) for more than 600 years.
In 1395, the town began its water industry, and in 1760, Pellegrino Foppoli builds the first bathhouse. Soon after this, water rights become an issue.
Circa 1840, the water company builds thermal baths and overnight rooms. As the who’s who of Europe descend for health reasons, they add an ornate Casino and Grand Hotel in the art nouveau style, called “Liberty.”
By the beginning of the 1900s, the town is booming with a guest book that includes kings, queens, and czars. By this time, the water company owns the casinos, baths, and the hotel.
In the early 1900s, they start adding carbon dioxide to kill bacteria. (The water is not naturally sparkling) They upgrade the baths and the bottling factory. By 1961 they need to build a more massive factory further down the valley. This move leaves a deserted factory in the middle of town.
The Fizz Doesn’t Fizz Too Long.
After WWI, the popularity of the spa town begins to dwindle.
As new spa towns pop up, this jewel, stuck far away in a valley in northern Italy, becomes too far away.
Gambling disappears in 1917, so by the time WWII comes along, the casino, now a social club, closes by 1946.
The Grand Hotel closes its doors in 1979, facing insurmountable costs to update it.
By 1997, the local water company sells out to a Swiss company which may make the very best – chocolate. (Their words, not mine.) They have no interest in the fate of the town.
Bubbles From a New Source.
The town continues to crumble. Things look bleak. Then around 2010, an outside company shows interest in the aging baths. By the end of 2014, they open the doors on a state-of-the-art spa.
As a nod to the past, they keep the Liberty architecture on the exteriors.
Interest in the new baths is tremendous. Visitors to the area climbs to over 100,000 a year.
The casino building undergoes a loving restoration. Although the blackjack tables are missing, the building hosts private meetings and weddings. The website is in Italian but has pictures that speak any language.
In 2018, the San Pellegrino factory began a multi-million dollar refurbishment and visitors center. Although not in the village anymore, it should attract people to the area.
In 2018, the city starts looking for investors to restore the Grand Hotel, funicular, and bottling plant. The hotel is, isn’t, is already getting some much-needed love.
There is also talk of light rail from Bergamo.
The jewel is beginning to sparkle again.
If you get to San Pellegrino, first find the Pasticceria who has been open for more than 50 years. You need to taste a Frollini (biscuit) cookie before you start sight-seeing. It goes well with coffee. And possibly with a glass of local wine… Don’t judge. For beer drinkers, there’s a craft-brew pub around the corner.
Bergamo Summary
It is a treat to the senses, A medieval town, Italian masterpieces, and mountains for viewing. There is traditional cuisine to smell and taste, including protected designation of origin (PDO) products. And we did not even mention the local wines.
As you walk the streets of the Upper City, you can’t help but feel you are in another time.
Then there is the Lake Como region, or Milan approximately an hour’s drive away.
It is a magical corner of Italy. Why are you waiting?