Table of Contents:
LESS ANCIENT
MODERN TINOS
SHOULD-SEE TINOS.
Tinos is in the Cycladic islands between Andros and Mykonos. There is no airport, but ferries connect to Andros, Mykonos, Siros, and Rafina near Athens.
The island originally goes by Hydroessa (hydro) due to the many fresh water springs in ancient times. Possibly the Phoenicians give it the name Tunnoth (snake) due to many snakes. Over hundreds of years, this becomes Tinos.
According to Greek mythology, Calais and Zetes, the twin sons of Boreas (the North Wind), die on Tinos. They persuade the Argonauts to leave Heracles (Hercules in Roman) while he is looking for his lover Hylas. After catching up with them on Tinos. Heracles kills the twins.
Poseidon drives out the snakes garnering at least one temple in his honor.
Ancient Tinos.
According to Herodotus, the Carians are possibly the first inhabitants of the island.
They may have been from the coast of Asia Minor and were the first settlers on several Cycladic islands. The time may be around 1300 B.C.
Next, the Phoenicians and then the Ionians from Athens begin appearing in records in the early 11th century B.C.
Mycenaean tombs indicate their presence on the island at some point.
When the Persian Xerxes I attacks Greece, the Tenians become servants to the Persian fleet. Just before the Battle of Salamis (circa 480 B.C.), a trireme (ship) with Tenians aboard deserts the Persian Fleet. This move helps turn the tide of the war at sea.
Tinos joins the Delian League after the repulsion of the Persians. This membership indicates a wealthy economy. Some or all of their wealth may come from trading and supplying nearby Delos.
Then, circa 350 B.C., the despot, Alexander of Pherae (Thessaly in Northern Greece), seizes the land.
This rule will only last until circa 330 B.C. when Philip of Macedonia seizes most of Greece. What he does not acquire, his son Alexander will do a few years later.
After the mysterious death of Alexander the Great, the Egyptian Ptolemies will swoop in to acquire most of the Greek isles. They will rule until the 2nd century B.C. when the Roman Republic seizes Greece.
Less Ancient.
With the splitting of the Roman Empire circa 330 A.D., Greece and its islands fall under the Byzantine Empire. They will remain there until the 12th century.
During this time, Tinos seems to be on their own. Due to numerous pirate raids, many of the inhabitants move inland.
In 1204 during the Fourth Crusade, Constantinople falls, and Greece becomes a land grab.
The Venetian nobleman Andrea Ghisi scoops up most of the Cyclades, making himself the lord.
During the 1300s, Tinos and most of the Mediterranean will be victims of the Great Catalan Company. These mercenaries ravage every port in the Aegean. Tinos, with Venetian backing, manages to keep most of the pirates at bay. As a result, the island flourishes in agriculture, art, wine, and trade.
The Ottomans.
The admiral of the Ottoman fleet, Hayreddin Barbarossa, takes control of the island circa 1537.
The Venetians will continue to fight for the Greek islands for the next two hundred years. Finally, when they lose the castle of Tinos, they give up on the islands.
Ships sailing from Constantinople, Athens, and other Aegean ports call on the island. The Ottomans pretty much leave Tinos alone, as long as it pays its taxes.
The port continues to grow, trading with ports as far away as Alexandria. As a result, it earns the island the nickname “Little Paris.” Until the Greek Revolution of 1821, Tinos is the economic capital of the Cyclades.
The Greek Revolution against the Ottoman Empire pulls all of Greece together. Tinos will donate boats, money, and soldiers to the cause.
In 1930, the Cyclades, along with much of the Greek mainland, become the Modern Kingdom of Greece. As a result, Tinos becomes a religious and cultural center.
The island’s economy remains intense from sailing and trading activity. However, the 1904 opening of the Corinth Canal will pull much of the port’s traffic.
The World Wars.
Like most of Greece, Tinos would feel the impact of the First World War. Although warfare did not come to the islands, Tinos donated to the cause. Many young soldiers would not return. After the war, many islanders would leave Tinos to find work in Athens. The same would happen after the Second World War.
Before Greece finds itself in the Second World War, the war comes knocking in Tinos. During the Dormition of the Virgin, one of the largest religious festivals in Greece, an explosion takes place. In the harbor for the celebration, the Greek warship Elli receives a torpedo from an Italian submarine. Within two months, Greece goes to war.
Post War.
After the war, tourism would get a slight boost from people trying to see nearby Delos.
Aristoteles Onassis, owner of Olympic Airlines, would build an airport on nearby Mykonos. It will attract the majority of tourists due to the fame it receives from the press. Tinos, on the other hand, continues to thrive as a small Greek island.
Tinos Today.
Until the 1990s, agriculture, livestock, beekeeping, shipping, fishing, and religious tourism support the economy.
The pilgrimage to visit the Icon of Great Grace is still a year-round draw to the island. A vision of the Virgin Mary reveals to a local nun the location of the miracle-producing icon.
The feast day of the Virgin Mary takes place on August 15th. The festival is the largest of the year but not the only one involving the icon.
Not all tourists these days are on a pilgrimage. Tourism is now a significant part of the economy. Tinos marble, a famous export for more than 4000 years, also draws people. The Tinian art of marble-carving is on the UNESCO List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Many of the visitors to Tinos are Greeks from the mainland or other European countries. Greek is the primary language on the island, although most hotels have English-speaking staff. Like everywhere in the Mediterranian, June is busy, July is crazy, and visitors should avoid August.
What is in Tinos for me?
See and Hear.
The rugged terrain makes the island a scenic place to explore by car or on foot. In addition, the island hosts a Jazz and a World Music festival and other festivities.
Taste and Smell.
I call Tinos the island of pies. At breakfast, lunch, and the afternoon, you can find sweet and savory Greek pies. Of course, this is true all over Greece, but in Tinos, it feels like there are more pies. I have never met one I didn’t like.
Feel.
Several small villages will give you a great feel of how life on the island and sea used to be.
Sit on the beach or a town square and absorb life. Grab a glass of local wine and take in a Tinos sunset.
There may be better ways to end your day, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Tinos.
Tinos Town (Chora).
Ellis monument.
In the port is this monument to the Greek warship Ellis, which sank in the harbor in 1940. The torpedoing by an Italian submarine would push Greece closer to war. The memorial is on the pier to the east of the ferry pier.
Holy Church of Panagia of Tinos (Evangelistria).
Christians make a pilgrimage to this church of Virgin Mary Megalochari, the protector of all Greece. It houses a miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary and is one of Greece’s most important religious monuments. Every August, thousands of pilgrims crawl from the harbor to the church.
Antonios Sochos Museum.
Also in the complex is this small museum to this local sculpturer. His pieces on display include sculptures out of wood, plaster, and marble.
Archaeological Museum of Tinos.
This museum, just down from the church, houses relics from the island’s two major sites. These include the archaeological site Kionia Tinos and the 8th Century B.C. temple of Dimitra.
Archaeological Site Kionia.
West of Chora is the remains of this sizeable 4th century B.C. sanctuary to Poseidon and the sea nymph Amphitrite. It appears to be on top of an even older sanctuary. People would worship Poseidon, asking for his help. This is the only temple to Poseidon known in the Cyclades.
Vryokastro.
Just east of Chora, at the end of Agios Folkas beach, is this prehistoric fortified settlement. To date, it is the oldest settlement in Tinos.
The architecture is from the Minoan civilization during the Bronze Age circa 3500 B.C. to around 1100 B.C. What few walls remain appear to date to the Middle Bronze Age (2300-1600 B.C.) Only parts of the walls at the top of the hill are still visible.
Pyrgos.
In the northern end of the island is this “Marble Village.” Everywhere you look, you can spot marble. It is in the streets, buildings, churches, homes, and there are marble sculptures.
Museum of Marble Crafts.
This modern museum is a porthole into the ancient techniques of marble carving. On display are drawings, models, instruments, equipment, and actual carvings.
Giannoulis Chalepas Museum.
This museum is in the house where the famous local sculptor was born and died. Several of his works are on display.
Museum of Tinian Artists.
Within the Church of Panagia complex is the small museum hosting works by famous local painters and sculptors.
Pyrgos School of Fine Arts.
For more than 50 years, this school has been offering a three-year program teaching marble sculpture and other areas. The school is on a hill above Pyrgos.
Museum of Traditional Ceramics.
This museum and learning center on the road to Pyrgos is saving the ancient skills of ceramic making. There is a brown sign indicating the turnoff and some parking. It requires a walk to reach the museum from the parking area.
Alley of the Mills.
Also, on the road to Pyrgos, you will crest a hill dotted with the remains of windmills on both sides.
Kambos.
MUSEUM Costas Tsoclis
This contemporary art museum houses many works of this local artist. The building, an old school, now serves to educate people about modern art.
Dovecotes.
As you drive across the island, you will see numerous white structures with triangular, square, or round holes in them. The Venetians brought these pigeon birdhouses with them. Many dating from the 18th century, the Venetians would position them to the winds. These attractive houses would lure pigeons in. To the Venetian nobility, the pigeon was a delicacy. There are numerous dovecotes around Kambos.
The Rest of Tinos.
Exomvourgo Castle.
On one of the island’s highest points are a few remains of this Venetian fort from circa 1204 A.D. The castle is on top of even fewer remains of an ancient archaeological site, dating from the 11th century B.C. The 8th Century B.C. temple of Dimitra was also here. Items from it are in the archeological museum in Chora. Exomvourga is the island’s capital during the Byzantine age.
Holy Monastery of Ursuline Monks.
Dating from 1862, this was an educational center for young aristocratic ladies from different countries. The school and college would operate until the mid-1900s. Inside, you can see medical, physics, and chemistry laboratories, painting and music rooms, plus dormitories.
Kechrovoúni Monastery.
This convent is now a village, with various churches and buildings dating back to the 1700s. The church of the Kimísis tis Theotókou (Mary in Ascension) has an icon from the 16th century. The Hermitage of Agia Pelagia houses the skull of the nun who received a vision from the Blessed Virgin in 1822. The image leads to the discovery of the island’s icon.
Arnados.
This hillside village above Chora is, for the most part, pedestrian with alleys and kamares (covered passages).
Within a 10 minute drive from the town are the island’s wineries. Although wine on Tinos dates back 3000 years, these wineries are somewhat new, although they follow the old traditions. While here, try to find the picturesque village square.
Ecclesiastical Museum of Arnados.
The museum is above the main road, next to the church. Inside are old icons from island churches, ecclesiastical items, and holy vestments. If there is a sign for this anywhere, I have not found it. It is near the church, but plan to ask for directions.
Nikos Ballis Winery.
With the correct directions, this shop is a few minutes’ walk from the church. However, this is not the vineyard but a cellar shop in Arnados village.
Falatados.
Vaptistis Winery.
Less than 10 minutes north from Ballis, in Stemi is this small winery producing red, white, and rose.
Domaine De Kalathas Winery.
Less than two minutes drive south of the Domaine is this small winery. Last time I was there, the only sign on the road seemed to be “Beware of Dog” in Greek. With all Greek wineries, make reservations.
T-OINOS.
Four minutes north of the domain is this organic vineyard. Using techniques and grape varieties from ancient Greece, they are producing tasty wines.
Tinos Beaches.
The beaches on Tinos, like on many Greek islands, range from sandy to rocky. Most people would not fly 6+ hours just to visit these beaches. Many have limited or no services or facilities. Having said that, they are some of the best in the Cyclades.
Beginning just east of Chora and stretches to Vriokastro. It is famous for its proximity to town and the cafes and tavernas nearby. Many of the island’s beaches are windy. Here, you will find the Akrotiri Surf Club, popular for windsurfing.
Agios Romanos.
This bay on the west coast is popular with the many small accommodations nearby. The beach is a sand and pebble mixture, and shade comes from nearby trees. On the last visit, there were a few sunbeds for rent. In the summer, there is one cafe and a tavern nearby. At the south end of the beach is a small fishing boat harbor.
Kolimvithra Beach.
If you are staying in the middle of the island or in Kolimvithra on the north shore, this is a nice beach. There is a small snack bar and cafes nearby for food and facilities.
Malli Beach.
A little further on is this beach and small seaside village. I recommend it more for photos of the houses at either end or a quick dip.
Hiking Tinos.
The island has almost 100 miles of trails for the beginner to the advanced trekker. These footpaths stretch from mountainous villages to deserted beaches. Along the way, you may see old windmills and monasteries, dovecotes, and more.
Traditional Villages.
The island has more than 20 villages with traditional status. You can drive around them, but to explore the center, you need to go on foot.
Tinos Summary.
For me, this is a great place to rest your brain. There are not that many ‘specific’ sites to see or things to do.
Drive until you see a traditional village that piques your interest and explore it.
There, that’s easy enough.
Add on a progressive lunch, stopping at the bakery, then the market and wine store.
Or enjoy a leisurely hour plus dinner in a square.
Make sure you try the Tinos cuisine.
Think you could get used to Tinos?