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Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SIFNOS TODAY.
SHOULD SEE.
APOLLONIA.
KASTRO.
THE REST OF THE ISLAND.
The island of Sifnos is another Cycladic island famous for not being, well, famous. There is no airport. And it is not a stop on the ferry running to Mykonos, Santorini, or other mass-market islands. Ferry service from Pireaus (Athens) takes around three hours. The next stop is usually other Cycladic islands more popular with local Greeks than tourists.
Ancient Sifnos.
There are some indications that Sifnos, like other Cycladic islands, had inhabitants as early as circa 12th century B.C. If so, these were probably Ionian Greeks from Athens.
There is almost no information on Sifnos through the Bronze and Minoan Ages. Although, there is a rumor of a Cretan colony by the name of Minoa. To date, there is no hard evidence of its existence.
From 1450 to 1100 B.C., artifacts indicate there were Mycenaeans on the island. By 1120 B.C., the Ionians replace them. They establish their capital town in the area of Kastro and call it “Asty.”
Sometime between the 8th and 6th centuries, Asty fortifies its acropolis. Ruins indicate there was a governing building, a market, and a temple. The tower on the top was a lookout and able to signal other towers on the island.
Circa 525 B.C., the inhabitants present Delphi with the Treasury of the Sifnians. It is the most ornate treasury at Delphi. The Sifnos people pay 10% of their mining profit for Apollo’s blessing. Some Siphnian silver coins from this period also indicate their great wealth. In addition to silver, they are mining gold and lead.
Circa 524 B.C., political refuges (pirates) from Samos arrive demanding financial support from the Sifnians. When the locals refuse, the pirates ravage the island and manage to make off with 100 talents. A talent was equal to 6000 drachmae, so a large amount of money for that time. In addition, it is probable that they did destruction to the mines at Aghios Sostis, paralyzing the island’s economy.
The Persians.
The Persians appear in the Aegean near the end of the 6th century. This time, with the help of Athens, the Sifnians ward off their attack. Soon after, they join the Delian League. Many Greek city-states ban together under Athens to guard against attacks by the Persians.
In 411 B.C., oligarchic extremists overthrow the democracy of Athens. Finally, after the 404 B.C. capitulation of Athens, Sifnos falls to the Spartans.
Circa 397 B.C., the Spartans sign the King’s Peace agreement with the Persians. Greece will remain under Persian rule until circa 330 B.C. Around this time, Alexander the Great, begins pushing the Persians back into Asia.
Unfortunately, the ruins and excavations of the island tell very little about this period.
Roman Sifnos.
There is very little information about Sifnos from Roman times. Rome, using a predominantly land-based army, ignores the islands. If they do not have a major port or can supply food for the army, they are useless. As a result, many islands become places of exile for Roman troublemakers.
However, they find the remains of three Roman sarcophagi around Kastro, so the Romans were here. It appears that mining was no longer taking place, probably due to over mining.
Byzantine Sifnos.
With the beginning of the Byzantine Empire (circa 330 A.D.), the islands fell under the leadership of Constantinople. But life on Sifnos did not change.
With the growth of Christianity, the Pagan Greek, then Roman temples became churches or building supplies for churches.
The church of Panayia Yeraniofora in Apollonia is probably on an ancient Greek temple of Apollo. The town of Artemonas probably gets its name from an ancient temple to Apollo’s twin sister Artemis.
Unfortunately, few relics remain on Sifnos from the Greeks or Romans.
After the sacking of Constantinople (circa 1204), Sifnos, like most of the Greek islands, had no one to protect them. So it becomes a minor dependency for whatever Venetian duke currently holds the surrounding Naxos Duchy.
Circa 1279 A.D. Sifnos is again under Byzantine domination. This will last until 1307 when Spaniard Dakoronia of the Knights Order of Saint John conquers the island.
For the next 150 years, the island will be under attack from the Venetians from Naxos and Turkish pirates.
In 1464 A.D., after the last male Dakoronia dies, the Gozzadini Dynasty of Bologna takes control. But, unfortunately, they will only last 70 years before turning control over to the Ottoman admiral Barbarossa.
Serifos and the Ottomans.
Circa 1537, the Ottomans finally get the upper hand and occupy the Cyclades.
Like much of Greece, the Ottomans take control, then move on, leaving a small garrison to rule Sifnos. As long as the Greeks pay their 300 ducats yearly fee, the Ottomans leave them alone. The locals can worship as they please, including Christianity.
The Ottoman Sultan Selim II gives the administration of several Cycladic islands to his friend and banker, Don Joseph Nazis.
The House of Gozadinon, friends of the next sultan, regain rule circa 1578. They will remain in power until 1617.
Sifnos remains a commercial port, a large part of its economy. Due to the freedom to practice any religion, the Orthodox Church establishes an Archbishopric in Sifnos circa 1646. In addition, the church of Jerusalem will establish the School of the Archipelago circa 1687. Here scholars of literature and art will teach.
During the Russo-Turkish War (1768–1774), the Orlov brothers gain control of Sifnos and other Greek islands for a short period. However, at the end of the war, control goes back to the Ottoman.
Sifnos is more than ready to support the Greek Revolution. The island sends 150 soldiers to the Peloponesse in 1821.
For its role, Sifnos and the rest of the Cyclades become part of the 1829 Modern Greek State.
The World Wars.
Like most Greek Islands, Sifnos will avoid direct warfare, although it will send many of its young men to fight.
During WWII, the island will come under Italian control before the Germans take over in 1941. They take all food and supplies for themselves, leaving the island people starving.
After the war, the young men leave Sifnos to find better jobs on the mainland. The 1960s and 70s are a quiet time. A few visitors stumble across the island, but not many. They find beaches, locals, and the distinctive brown-and-blue Sifnian pottery.
By the 1980s, the population is around 1000 people. Dairy farming, fishing, and agriculture employ some of these. Tourism-related jobs, such as hotels, and restaurants are also employers.
Sifnos Today.
Today the population is around 2600. Tourism, pottery, agriculture, farming, fishing, and beekeeping are the major industries.
The local cuisine is popular with visiting Greeks. Local wine, cheese (manoura and ksinomyzithra), figs, capers, honey, sesame cakes, and cheese pies are just some of the treats.
Sifnos has very few historical sites. There are few museums. However, the island is good for sunbathing, swimming, and hiking. Maps are available locally.
Sifnos is a variant of the Greek word for a potter, so check out the Sifnian pottery. Unfortunately, there are not as many potters as before.
However, you can see examples on many houses. Look for the ornamental “foufoudes” chimneys.
Local legend is that there are 365 churches on the island, one for every day. There is a saint for every day and some form of a festival for each one. However, at last count, the number of churches was around 330. That should still be enough to keep you busy.
What is in Sifnos for me?
See & Hear.
This is a visual island. There are coasts with a few hidden beaches and vistas from hilltops. Hiking paths take you to remote churches.
Taste & Smell.
Here you will taste authentic home cooking. The island receives Greeks looking for authentic Greek food. Find where the locals are eating just off the main streets.
Watch a sunset, maybe with a glass of wine. Smell the meat grilling and the faint hint of oregano.
Feel.
There are no UNESCO sites to draw the crowds. The young crowd gravitates to the beaches by day and nightclubs in Apollonia by night.
That gives you the rest of the island. Leisurely dinners are still the major evening entertainment.
Find a beach outside of town and feel like you have escaped civilization. Bring everything you need because they are away from civilization. Or follow one of the island’s hiking trails, but not mid-day.
Sip a drink while you watch the shadows stretch across the harbor to a small church. Then, think back to your leisurely day.
There may be better ways to meet the approaching evening, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Sifnos.
Kamares.
Kamares is the port of Sifnos. This is where the ferries arrive and depart. It is also home to small boats due to its protected cove. In addition, there are several other smaller coves around the island for small boats.
Kamares is only two streets wide in several places. You will find the standard rooms for rent, car rentals, cafe, and A.T.M., but not much else.
Kamares Beach.
250 yards walk from the ferry pier is this beach with chairs and umbrellas to rent seasonally. There are cafes along the beach for food and drink.
Agios Symeon.
Across the bay and on top of the mountain is this chapel from 1667. It requires a climb to reach, but the views (and sunsets) are incredible on a clear day.
Prophet Elias of Troulaki Monastery.
To the left of Agios Symeon., when standing on the ferry pier, is this monastery on Sifnos’ highest point. More than 2200 feet above the bay, the church dates to circa 1600 A.D.
You can drive up the backside of the mountain a good portion of the way. However, there is still a climb from the road.
Apollonia.
The capital town of the island is approximately 3.5 miles from the ferry pier. The drive takes about 10 minutes, depending on traffic. Once you get there, if you have a rental car, the fun begins. Many parts of Apollonia are pedestrian or have private parking for locals.
The only public lot I know of is along the road from Kamares. Look for the square blue sign with a white “P” on your left-hand side. At the far (west) side of the parking lot is a pedestrian stair-path. A 5-minute walk will bring you to the center of town (Heroon Square) and avoid cars on the main road.
The Folklore and Pop Art Museum of Sifnos.
This interesting museum is on the main square. Get a look at life on Sifnos through the farm and home tools and furnishings. The collection includes some interesting firearms. The museum is only open from April – October.
The Pedestrian Streets of Apollonia.
Stroll the streets of this traditional Cycladic village, and try to lose yourself. There are small stores, cafes, tavernas, rooftop dining, and other treasures to discover.
Artemonas.
Anymore, this town, a mile north of Apollonia, is a suburb of Apollonia. However, the architecture changes. This is where the wealthy Siphnian ship owners would build their 19th-century mansions. Artemonas is also predominantly pedestrian. There is a large parking area on the main road across from the Church of St. Constantine and Helen.
I can not prove it, but the last time I was there, there seemed to be more places in this area to find a sweet or baked good, not that I was counting. But with all the walking, it is good to keep the carbs at a healthy level.
Like other Cycladic villages, the pedestrian streets wind back and forth and go up and down. Part of the charm is losing yourself. We find everyone before dinner time.
Kastro.
This is not only the best-preserved medieval town on Sifnos but one of the best in the Cyclades. Sitting on a cliffside on the east coast, it is obvious to see its location was a matter of protection.
Castle of Sifnos.
The island’s first inhabitants were living here circa the 3rd millennium B.C. It would be the first capital of the island. In the 6th century A.D., the church installs the Archdiocese of Sifnos. The castle has two defensive rings around it. The homes of the rich are inside the rings. Even then, it’s all about the location.
Archaeological Museum of Sifnos.
This small museums collection includes mostly local finds dating from the Bronze Age to the late Byzantine period.
Paralia Seralia.
This small rocky beach and village of the same name are in a cove south of the Kastro. Unfortunately, you cannot see the chapel from here or a great view of the castle. However, there are several places to grab a cold drink in the shade or on a rooftop. Or take a refreshing dip.
Chapel of the Seven Martyrs.
The seven Martyrs refer to the seven youth of Ephesus who sleep for 184 years. That is not why you visit this church. In fact, you don’t visit this chapel. It is one of the Kodak moments of Greek chapels.
Sitting on a rock outcropping below the Kastro, it is ‘the’ Instagram spot on Sifnos and very popular with brides.
The picture is from above with the sea behind it. There is a paved path from the south side of the Kastro. There are several low walls to sit on during the climb back up.
The Rest of the Island.
There is almost a church for each day of the year. However, many of them are only open on that day for its festival. So regardless of when you visit, you can find a festival, although they vary in size.
The Monastery of Panagia Chrissopigi.
Perhaps the second most-photographed church on the island is this monastery. Dating from the 16th century, this monastery is on top of an older church. Inside is the icon of Panagia, the island’s patron saint. Fishermen found the icon floating in the sea.
Faros Beach.
Although rocky, this beach with tamarisk trees is one of my favorites. There is sand right at the water’s edge, and the water is crystal-clear. There are umbrellas and chairs for rent, but I am happy at a taverna people-watching. On a clear day, you can see the Monastery of Chrisopigi at the end of the cove.
Vlicho (or Glyfo) Beach.
Just west of the buildings at the far end of Faros is this beach with more sand.
Monastery of Panagia Vrysiani.
On the road to Faros and Platys Gialos, this is the largest monastery on Sifnos. Dating from the 17th century, they worship the Birth of the Virgin Mary. The most important icon is the Virgin Mary of Vrysis. There is a small Museum of Ecclesiastical Art on the property. Its collection includes manuscripts, historical icons, and other religious relics.
Archaeological Site of Agios Andreas.
This is one of the most interesting Mycenaean discoveries in the Aegean. Much of what you see today dates from the 8th century B.C. However, it sits on top of another settlement from the twelfth century B.C. All that remains at the site are the foundations of walls. An easy-to-navigate paved path winds through the ruins, which is uphill when arriving.
There is a small museum of artifacts from the site near the entrance. Reach the site from the road running between Apollonia and Vathi.
Church of Saint Andrew.
On top of the Agios Andreas site is this church dating from 1701 A.D. There is no doubt that missing parts of the archaeological site are building material for the church.
Vathi Beach.
On the west coast of the island is this protected bay. It has a sand beach and a few tamarisk trees for shade. There are water sports (seasonal) and tavernas for food and beverage.
Sifnos Atsonios Pottery Workshop.
There has been a pottery workshop here since 1870. At the south end of Vathi bay, a father and son are keeping the art alive. There are a few other old workshops around the island.
Cherronisos.
This charming fishing village is at the north end of the island. The protected bay has small fishing boats at anchor. There is a small beach, but I come here for the local tavernas where the fish just tastes better. If you have the time, try to arrange a boat from Kamares.
Natural Sifnos.
Hiking Sifnos.
Sifnos Trails has ten different hiking routes ranging from just over three miles to more than nine. Many are fairly easy, although all have uneven terrain. This is a great way to see tower ruins and churches not visible from the road. Spring and fall are the best weather (temperature) for hiking.
Towers of Sifnos.
The ruins of 85 towers are visible all over the island. Some are just a few rocks, while others still retain part of their shape. Many are visible on the hiking trails. These towers date from between the 6th and 4th century B.C. Click on the orange link for a map.
The Aspros Pyrgos, or White Tower.
The remains of this 4th century B.C. watch and signal tower are on the hill between Chrissopigi and Platis Gialos. It is one of a few towers visible from your car. For the more ambitious, look for the brown sign with yellow letters at the Chrissopigi turnoff. It requires an uphill hike over uneven terrain.
Sifnos Summary.
Like every page on this website, this is not the ultimate list of things to do on Sifnos. However, I hope it is enough for you to immerse yourself in this charming destination.
A little history, some breathtaking scenery, great cuisine, and the local people, what’s not to like?
The nights are magical too.
What are you waiting for?