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Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SERIFOS TODAY.
SHOULD SEE.
The island of Serifos is famous for not being, well, famous. There is no airport. And it is not a stop on the ferry running to Mykonos, Santorini, or other mass-market islands. Ferry service from Pireaus (Athens) takes around three hours. The next stop is usually other Cycladic islands more popular with local Greeks than tourists.
Ancient Times.
In mythology, Danae and her baby son Perseus flee here to hide from her father, Acrisius. According to the Oracle, Perseus will kill Acrisius, making the youth persona non Grata.
In other “real” history, Seriphos, like the surrounding islands, appear to be first inhabited by Ionians from Athens.
The island has large deposits of ore and some copper. They are mining it in the ancient days as Serifos has its own currency by the 6th century B.C.
Circa 470 B.C. Serifos is one of only a few islands that refuses to submit to the Persian invader Xerxes I.
There is little written history of the island during this time, not even about the copper and iron mines.
Findings indicate that the mines were in operation during these times, which should count for some positive press.
Even the pirates, terrorizing the Cycladic island trade routes, say nothing about Serifos.
Unfortunately, the ruins and excavations of the island tell very little about this period.
Roman Serifos.
The Greek islands will turn to Rome around 133 B.C. to protect them from Macedon.
The Romans will hold on to the islands until the Hellenistic Kingdom of Pontus takes them circa 88 B.C. This will last until circa 66 B.C. when Rome regains control.
The Romans were more army than navy, so islands were not their primary targets. However, with the Roman Empire taking control of Greece, many islands became places of exile. For lack of better use, Serifos fell into this class.
Findings indicate that the mines were in operation during this time.
Byzantine Serifos.
With the beginning of the Byzantine Empire (circa 330 A.D.), the islands fell under the leadership of Constantinople. But Serifos’s purpose did not change.
With the growth of Christianity, the Pagan Greek, then Roman temples became churches or building supplies for churches. Few relics remain on Serifos from the Greeks or Romans.
After the sacking of Constantinople (circa 1204), Serifos, like most of the Greek islands, had no one to protect them. So it becomes a minor dependency for whatever Venetian duke currently holds the surrounding Duchy. But its popularity remains that of the last kid picked for the kickball team.
Later in the Venetian rule, they notice the sizeable loads of iron and copper on the island. So the Venetians set up intensive mining operations, but for the Venetian navy, not the locals.
Serifos and the Ottomans.
Circa 1537, the Ottomans finally get the upper hand and occupy the Cyclades.
Like much of Greece, the Ottomans take control, then move on, leaving a small garrison to rule the Greeks. As long as the Greeks pay their yearly fees, the Ottomans leave them alone. The locals can worship as they please, including Christianity.
The Ottomans kick the Venetians out but have little interest in the mines.
The mines sit mostly empty for the Ottoman Occupation.
Serifos supports the 1821 naval battle at Kusadasi at the beginning of the Greek Revolution. The island sends what support it can for the uprising.
For its role, Serifos and the rest of the Cyclades become part of the 1829 Modern Greek State.
Serifos and the New Greece.
Greek interests begin the Hellenic Mining Company circa 1861. They manage the mines for approximately 14 years.
The French company, “Societe des mines Seriphos-Spiliazeza,” purchases controlling interest of the mines with the intention of intensive exploitation.
The German mineralogist Emilios Gromman becomes the manager of all the mines of Serifos. He oversees building an extensive infrastructure that includes the mines, transportation, and docks for loading ships.
After Emilio’s 1906 death, his son George takes over the management. He acquires the remaining companies on the island. By 1912, almost half of the island’s population of 4.400 people, work for the mine.
Strike, You’re Out.
When the First World War breaks out circa 1914, many young men leave to fight. But mining or copper and iron grow, leading to excessive work hours and ignoring safety concerns.
When the men begin returning from the war, they cannot have their jobs back at the mine. By the late (hot) summer of 1916, the miners reach their boiling point.
The mines go on strike. In Megalo Livadi, where the mine’s main office is, clashes with the police break out. Several people die.
Constantinos Speras, a Serifos native with extensive experience in labor struggles in Greece’s large cities, leads the strike.
Using hired forces, the mine has Speras and his committee detained.
Next, miners gather on the pier at Megalo Livadi to block a cargo ship from loading. The hired French police fire on the crowd, killing several.
The families of the miners join the cause and attack the police forces, killing three of them. The rest flee.
The mine’s leadership tries to regain control by placing Serifos under the protection of the French fleet. But unfortunately, a Greek Warship arrives first, and no French ships follow.
Control of the mines eventually goes back to Grohmann with his promise of safer working conditions and 8-hour shifts.
World War II.
The mines make a fortune during the next war effort. However, after the war, the Grommans must leave Greece due to their collaboration with the Germans.
In search of a better life, the young men leave Serifos to find better jobs on the mainland. By 1951 the “Societe des mines Seriphos-Spiliazeza” closes their operations on Serifos. Circa 1965, the last of the island’s mines close.
By the 1980s, the population was around 1100 people. The modest agriculture industry would employ some of these. Tourism-related jobs, such as hotels, and restaurants would also be a large employer.
Serifos Today.
Today, the island’s population is around 1500. Tourism is now the largest industry, but only in proportion. Farming and fishing also add to the island’s economy.
The island is popular with local Greeks looking to getaway. Serifos also attracts a young crowd. They are looking for beaches in the day and a nightlife less expensive than that on neighboring islands.
What is in Serifos for me?
See & Hear.
This is a visual island—rugged coasts with a few hidden beaches and vistas from hilltops.
Jump the first ferry in the morning and make a day trip to nearby Sifnos, Kythnos, or Milos.
Taste & Smell.
Here you will taste authentic home cooking. The island receives Greeks looking for authentic Greek food.. Look for the locals just off the main streets,
Watch a sunset from the Chora in the early evening, Maybe with a glass of wine. Smell the meat grilling and the faint hint of oregano.
Feel.
There are no UNESCO sites to draw the crowds. The young crowd gravitates to the beaches by day and nightclubs by night. That gives you the rest of the island.
Find a beach outside of town and feel like you have escaped civilization. Or follow one of the island’s hiking trails, but not mid-day.
Sip a drink while you watch the shadows stretch across the harbor. Then, think back to your leisurely day.
There may be better ways to meet the approaching evening, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Serifos.
Livadi (Port).
There is nothing “special” about the port area of Livadi. It has the same services as most Greek island ports, cafes, car rentals, and inexpensive accommodations.
However, a walk along the waterside in the early morning or before sunset is delightful. Along the water’s edge are cafes open morning and night. Everything from bed and breakfast options to 3-star hotels line the other side of the main street.
In many places, the town is only two blocks deep. Streets are oneway, and there are no sidewalks.
And, of course, it probably offers the most dramatic views on the Chora.
Paralia Livadi.
Probably the most popular beach on the island as it is right there. Running along the front street, there are nearby cafes with food, drinks, and restrooms.
Chora (Upper Town).
Many consider this one of the most picturesque capitals in the Cyclades.
More on the slopes of a hill than a cliff, many say it reminds them of Santorini at first sight.
The views of the Aegean from the Chora are as breathtaking as Santorini’s.
Church of Agios Konstantinos.
Sitting close to the top of the Upper Town, this traditional Greek church is closer to heaven. Sorry, there are no roads to this site. It takes hiking up the small pedestrian streets to reach it, but it is worth the hike. More than 750 feet above sea level, you can also see a few remains of the old Venetian castle (CAETPO.) It dates from the 1400s.
Windmills.
There have been windmills in the Aegean since the 12th century A.D. Currently, there are the remains of 12 windmills on Serifos. Towards the top of the Chora are three of the town’s eight looking new after restoration. Today, they are part of a boutique hotel.
Serifos Archaeological Collection.
The island’s small archaeological museum is on the Square of the Windmills. The collection includes items from different parts of the island and different historical periods. The variety of amphoras is the only clue that there was trading with other islands.
Church of Agios Athanasios.
Lending its name to the 17th-century square in front of it, the church dominates the square. The square, also called Pano Piatsa, has colorful tables for several ouzeries and a taverna.
Town Hall.
Sitting on the same square, this 1904 neoclassical building is worth considering while you are there.
Church of Evangelistria.
Sitting on the central square of the Kato Chora neighborhood, this 1907 church is not white. However, it is easy to spot from a distance.
Serifos Folklore Museum.
This museum, housed in a 100-year-old mansion, shows homelife in old Serifos. Through photos and items, including appliances and clothing, they present life in the old days. For an island with only 1500 residents, I find it impressive.
Memorial of the Fallen.
Near the Folklore museum, next to the chapel of St Antonios, is this memorial. The white marble monument lists the names of 36 locals lost in wars up until 1935. The white plaque to the right lists the three fallen soldiers from WWII.
The site also serves as a memorial to the Unknown Soldier.
Outside of Town.
Heading south out of Livadi:
Cape Spathi Lighthouse.
Dating from circa 1900, this stone building is still in operation. You can walk to the site. However, the building is private, housing Greek sailors who rotate as lighthouse keepers.
Paralia Vagia.
This beach on the southwest coast has a sandy, rocky mix. You can get close to the beach by car, although there is some walking required. Vendors are renting umbrellas and sun loungers. There is a snack bar nearby.
A little further along the bay is Paralia Ganema, offering much the same.
Koutalas Beach.
Originally a miner’s village, today, the area has guest houses. The beach, to me, always seems less crowded, and you can see remnants of the mining infrastructure.
Ormos Koutala.
On the southwest side of the bay are the remains of a loading crane from mining days. Koutala was the original mining town before they moved operations to Megalo Livadi.
Psaropyrgos, (Sofa of the Cyclops).
Towards the end of a dirt road, just past the Monastery of Evangelistria, Akrotiriani, is this structure from the Hellenistic, or possibly earlier period.
The remains of several structures sit on a ledge above the road. The dry-stack construction is in excellent condition considering its age.
With no excavations in this area, there are many legends. One that the Cyclops used to sit there looking for victims. Another that it was an entrance to the Cyclop’s cave, which is further down the hill. For safety reasons, the cave is no longer accessible.
Whatever it was, it still offers incredible views of the western end of the island.
Megalo Livadi.
This village on the west end of the island was a thriving town in the early 1900s. In addition to housing the mine’s headquarters, the town supplied housing, stores, a school, and other services. This was a mining town. Today, there are only a few remnants of this time.
Mining Company Headquarters.
At the north end of the town are the remains of the 1890 Neoclassical building. But, unfortunately, restoring it may be out of the question.
Miners Memorial.
On the rise just beyond the headquarters building is a white marble marker. It commemorates the four miners who died in the first days of the strike.
Old School House.
Also, along the waterfront, the school built for the miner’s children now contains a nice collection of mining artifacts.
Open-Air Mining Museum.
The remains of a loading assembly and several ore cars are visible in this area west of the town.
Aspros Pirgos (White Tower.)
On the road from Megalo Livadi towards the north side of the island is this marble tower. One of possibly four on the island, its construction is from the fourth century B.C. Today, the remains only stand 16 feet high. However, during their use as an observation tower, they were nearly 40 feet high. Pieces of the tower are turning up in nearby structures.
Panagia.
This small, hillside pedestrian town is a charming stop on an around-the-island drive. English is not the first language. The highlight of the town is The church of Panagia. Dating from 950 – 1000 A.D., this Byzantine basilica is the oldest church on Serifos. On the main square it is one of the few island churches with a tiled roof.
Holy Monastery of Taxiarches.
This men’s monastery, dating from 1572, is on the island’s northeastern side, close to Galani village. It honors the Archangels Michael and Gabriel, the patron saints of Serifos.
The architecture is part fortress as pirates were a genuine threat at the time of its building. The marble structure is home to a chancel screen of marble and wood. In addition, there is a gilded throne, murals of the fight of the Archangel against the Revelation Dragon, and more.
Today, there is only one monk remaining. You can visit the courtyard, and if you find the monk, he will show you the rest of the monastery.
Chrysoloras Winery.
Near the monastery is the entrance to this winery. Follow the bumpy dirt road upward to reach the winery. I really want this winery to do well. You can see the work that has gone into it. The few buildings are charming, and there is room for tasting. The vineyards run along terraces above and below the buildings.
In fairness, I did not get a chance to taste the wine at the winery. I did sample some from a store in town that may have been old. As of 2018, reservations were mandatory.
Panagia Skopiani.
This east coast church, between Galani and Livadi, is nothing special. It is not the largest or oldest church on the island. It is neither the highest nor lowest, and it is not on a historical list.
Yet brides scramble to get a reservation here for their wedding. The chapel is small, barely big enough to accommodate the wedding party, a priest, and the parents.
Yet the setting and the sea views make for a memorable day. Requiring many steps down to reach, it’s worth the climb back up.
Paralia Agios Sostis.
This pebble beach, on a protected cove, is approximately a 10-minutes drive east from the port. Many walkers use it as a destination early in the morning or late afternoon. There are no services at the beach. A few trees provide shade on a first-come basis.
Paralia Lia.
South of Agios Sostis beach, this beach seems to have more sand mixed in with the pebbles than other beaches. It takes some walking and stairs to reach from the end of the road. It also does not have services or shade.
Due to its seclusion, it does attract sunbathers sans suits.
Serifos Summary.
Yes, Serifos is not on most traveler’s top-ten list. Yet people wanting to experience an Authentic Greek island getaway make this destination a point.
There are some sites to see, and some nightlife.
But many people come to do very little but soak up the Greek Mediterranian vibe.
What are you waiting for?