Table of Contents:
NEW POROS.
SHOULD-SEE POROS.
Poros is actually two small islands 31 nautical miles southwest of the port of Piraeus. The islands lie 656 ft east of the Peloponnese at the town of Galatas. The islands only cover about 12 square miles (31 square KM). Year-round residents number less than 4,000, but on weekends, the population soars with weekenders visiting from Athens.
The southern island of Sphaeria is where the main town sits. Its name comes from Pelops’ charioteer, Spherus, from Greek Mythology. The northern island of Kalaureia is much larger. A bridge to the north of the town connects the two islands.
Ancient History
Needless to say, there was no bridge during antiquity. So Poros was two islands: Sphairia (today’s Sfairia) and Calauria (or Kalaureia, today’s Kalaureia).
Dating back to the Mycenaean occupation (1400-1100 B.C.) Calauria was quite powerful as a naval base protecting the Peloponesse’s eastern coast.
It was home to a place for asylum dedicated to Poseidon. This asylum may have been linked to the sanctuaries at Geraistos (today’s Evia) and Tainaros (today’s Cape Matapan on the Mani Peninsula). In Greek mythology, Tainaros was the gateway to the Greek underworld.
During the Persian Empire (550 – 330 B.C.) Persia annexed the Greek cities-states of western Anatolia. Poros and the other city-states revolted against the Persian rule in what would become the Greco-Persian Wars.
During the Peloponnesian War (431–404 BC), Calauria supported Sparta during this Hellenic power struggle with Athens. Calauria would offer asylum to one politician who would become one of the 30 tyrants who would rule after Sparta’s win. They would rule with cruel and oppressive tactics.
Hellenistic Period
This period in Greek history spans between the death of Alexander the Great (323 B.C.) and the death of Cleopatra VII (30 B.C.) and the domination by the Roman Empire.
When Alexander died, a mad land grab ensued between his generals. The Macedonian Ptolemy I Soter grabs Egypt. He then occupies Calauria and a few other parts of the Peloponesse not officially claimed by the Antigonid Empire. However, the distance from Egypt allows the local politicians to call their own shots pretty much.
During this time, Calauria is the center of the Calaurian league. This was a religious alliance with Athens, Aegina, Epidaurus, Nauplio, and several other nearby city-states. These leagues would later be less religious and much more political.
In 273 B.C., the explosion of the Methana volcano changes Methana from an island into a peninsula of the Peloponnese. Its location, six nautical miles north of Poros, dramatically affects the people and island of Poros.
Around 122 B.C., the Roman Republic has grown east as far as Greece. They begin acquiring Greece for their growing real estate portfolio.
Less Ancient
The Roman Empire has control over Greece for the next almost 500 years. Christian communities will spread out from nearby Corinth, with leaders baptized by the Apostle Paul. By the end of the 2nd century A.D., Jewish communities begin to appear as they flee from the Barbarian attacks on the mainland of Europe. Like the rest of Greece and much of Eastern Europe, the next several hundred years have similar histories.
With the splitting of the Roman Empire in 395 A.D., Poros remains Eastern Roman (Byzantine), with Constantinople as the seat of power.
By 396 A.D., the Goths are raiding the Peloponnese, completely destroying Trizinia and Kalavria. A few years later, the island is hit by a powerful earthquake. Many believe this is when the ancient port at Vagionia was submerged. Poros does not recover from these catastrophic events, and people move to the Peloponnese.
During the Middle Ages, Poros is uninhabited and becomes a lair for pirates pillaging the Saronic islands and the Peloponnese ports.
With the Fourth Crusade in 1204, all of Greece, including Poros, is split up by the Frankish as war prizes. They will oversee the area for the next 200 years.
1484 A.D. and the growing powerhouse of Venice takes control of Poros. Venice develops Poros as a strategic port to launch attacks against the Ottoman Navy. The island’s population grows to nearly 15,000 inhabitants, making it one of the largest cities in Greece.
The Ottoman Occupation.
In 1537, Suliman, the Ottoman sultan, declares war on Venice (and all of its holdings). Venice soon loses control of most of the Peloponnese, including Poros.
Greek Orthodox begin arriving in Poros from the conquered Peloponnesian mainland, fleeing religious persecution.
They build the medieval fortified settlement of Kastelli on the hill where the Clock Tower stands today.
Around 1688 the Venetians take back control of Poros. They will hold on until the end of the Sixth Venetian-Turkish War in 1699.
With the 1718 Treaty of Passaurovic between Austria, Venice, and the Ottoman Empire, Poros is again under Ottoman rule. However, the Ottomans have lost interest in Poros by this time, except when taxes were due. Gradually more Orthodox settlers move to the island.
During the revolution of 1770 (Orlovika), Russian admiral Alexis Orlov establishes his base on the island in 1770, leading to the Greek rebellion in the Peloponnese. It is a prelude to things to come in 1821.
Following their defeat at the Battle of Kozludzha in 1774, the Ottomans sign the Treaty of Kuchuk-Kainarji, ending the Russo-Turkish War. It would signal the end of the Ottoman Empire’s growth and give Russia the right to protect Christians in the Ottoman Empire.
Russia secures free shipping for its ships throughout the waters of the Ottoman Empire. This creates a boom for Greek mercantile shipping. On the edge of Poros town, they build storage facilities and a hardtack (biscuits for long sea voyages) baking factory. Poros becomes a busy port again.
The Greek Revolution.
Poros plays an important role during the Greek Revolution of 1821 due to its closeness to Aegina and the Peloponnese. Revolutionary leaders use Poros as a clandestine spot to meet. In 1827, they establish an Independent state of Greece. In 1828, the ambassadors of Russia, England, and France meet in Poros with Ioannis Kapodistrias, head of the new Greek government. The purpose of the meeting is to lay out the borders of the future Greek state.
Once Greece is independent, Governor Capodistrias requisitions the Russian port facilities for the Greek navy.
He offers the Russians a new location in another cove. The Russian’s new facilities are larger, and the Russians will use them until the late 1800s. During this time, the number of Russian residents in Poros increases. However, when the Russian naval activity declines by the early 20th century, the Russians return to Russia. Today, the remaining ruins are protected architectural monuments.
The New Poros.
With the loss of Russian trading, many locals began fishing and exporting local products. Others began working in agriculture, growing wheat, grapevines, and olives. A few began tending livestock but in small numbers.
By 1862 the neoclassical town we see today began to develop. Building outside the medieval walls, homes and buildings begin reaching closer to the waterfront.
A Casualty of War.
After the Second World War, Poros flounders, as do many of the small islands and towns. The youth that do return to Poros don’t stay long. The big city calls.
In the 1960s, Athenians, looking for a place to get away for the weekend, discover hidden Poros. Many buy up small homes for weekend or summer places. By 2000, non-Greek tourists looking to see Greece outside of Athens discover Poros as a day trip to a Greek island. Today, tourism is a major part of the Poros economy.
Poros Today
An hour plus from Athens by fast ferry, Poros remains an easy escape for Athenians getting away for the weekend.
It is also a stop for yachters weaving through the Saronic Islands. Many arrive in time for sundowners and dinner ashore. Come morning, they are off to their next port.
A few taxis are on the island, and you can rent a car or scooter. Poros Town is walkable.
Most restaurants and cafes are in the town area or along the coast. There is some nightlife past 10:00 pm.
Should See Poros
Poros Town
There is only one town on the island. A few beach areas have an inn or two, a few houses, and a taverna (small village), but most people live in or near Poros Town.
The town basically has two streets at sea level. A front street (promenade) follows the shape of the harbor. And a back street that follows the bottom of the hill, one block in from the harbor. I recommend making a loop, down one street, back on the other, for a comprehensive town tour. The back street is only half as long as the front street. The commercial part of the back street is predominantly between the library going east to the plaza where the Monument to the Fallen Heroes sits.
Clock Tower.
Starting at the top of the town is Poros’s landmark. Dating from 1927, the clock tower can be seen from just about anywhere in town. It sits at the highest point on the hill of Sphere, one of two hills the town sits on. Ioannis Papadopoulos, a member of Parliament and originally from Poros, bought it from America.
In 2000, much-needed repairs were made to the moving parts. The mechanisms are in a glass case so you can see them. The walk to reach the clock is predominantly uphill between picturesque houses, several from the 15th century. You have great views over the town and towards the Peloponnese from the hilltop.
Archaeological Museum of Poros
The Museum sits on Koryzis Square at the southern end of town on the front street. The Koryzis family donated the land to build the museum in the 1960s. Inside the small museum, you will find antiquities from the sanctuary of Poseidon and relics from nearby Hermione and Trizina. They date from the Mycenaean era to Roman times.
Hatzopouleios Municipal Library
Located on the back street in a neoclassical building that looks centuries old, the building actually dates from 1994. The building was done with donations from Alexandros and Katina Hatzopoulou on the ruins of the old Poros school. In addition to books, the library also contains a small shell museum. Due to its size and volunteer staff, it is only open upon appointment or during exhibits. If you’re lucky, a local exhibition may be happening inside.
Monument to the Fallen Heroes
This stately monument is on the front street, halfway between the ferry dock and the Archeological Museum. Dating from 2012, it honors Poros’s heroes. It also makes a great meeting place if your party splits up.
Municipal Market of Poros.
Just east of the monument along the waterfront is what remains of a once vibrant town market. Today, where there used to be a dozen stalls competing for your custom, now there is one fish shop and one butcher. For nostalgic reasons, it’s worth popping your head in.
Poros Folkloric Museum
Across from the ferry pier in the Syggrou building is this small museum created by the local Women’s Cultural Association. Most of the museum’s collections come from their homes and include household items, traditional furnishings, costumes, and photographs. Check the door for opening hours.
The Syggrou building also has a small Amphitheatre in the back. Check for concerts while you are there.
The Old Windmill Tower
Like windmills on the island of Crete, this tower was a place for milling bread flour. The age of the tower is unknown. From here or the nearby Saint Athanassios Holy Chapel, you can get incredible views of the island and beautiful sunsets.
Outside of Poros Town
Sanctuary of Poseidon.
Dating from the late 6th or early 5th century BC., there is very little left to see at the site. Bring a good imagination. In its heyday, this was the center of the Calaurian League and an asylum for those seeking protection from persecution. It is unclear when or why the temple was abandoned. If you don’t want to drive, a few paths from town will take 90+ minutes each way. The temple sits over 600 feet above sea level in the north-central part of Kalaureia island.
There are two other archeological sites on or near Poros, but neither is open to the public. On the eastern shore is Kavos Vassilis, a settlement of the 3rd millennium. Modi, a small island east of Poros, has been giving up clues of an important naval settlement dating back to the lend of the Mycenaean period (12th century B.C.)
The Holy Monastery of Zoodohos Pigi. (Life-giving Spring).
Dating from 1720, after the Archbishop of Athens drank from the nearby spring and was miraculously cured. It would make financial and social donations, as well as spiritual, during the War of Independence. John Kapodistrias and other freedom fighters prayed here several times. The church has a few impressive icons. Several fighters of the Revolution are buried here.
You can visit the monastery in conservative attire. Today, only three of the seventeen monks live on the grounds. The drive (or walk) is less than 3 miles (4 KM) east of town through a Pine forest.
Russian Dockyard
A little over 2 miles (3.5 KM) from the bridge is what remains of the second Russian dockyard. A historical monument since 1989, it is predominantly the remaining shells of the storehouses. There is no museum on location, but a beach and bay is popular with locals and boat owners. There is a bus service from town.
Villa Galini
A red Victorian house is on the coast road, just past the White Cat 1909 restaurant. Greek architect Anastasios Metaxas, famous for restoring the Panathenaic Stadium, and designing the Benaki Museum, creates it. Today, it is a private residence. However, in the 1960s, it was a B&B run by Amaryllis Dragoumi, the sister-in-law of George Seferis, the Greek diplomat, poet, and noble laureate in literature. George would spend long periods at the house, undoubtedly drawing inspiration from Poros. He shared it with several of his artist, poet, and writer friends. Its guest list includes other Greek writers, American poet James Merrill, and writer Peter Gray. Possibly wanting to “be alone,” Greta Garbo was a guest. Others taking in the peace and quiet include artist Marc Chagall and other novelists including Henry Miller and George Horton. The British painter John Lee Craxton painted “The Lemon Harvester” while staying at the villa.
Dana Lighthouse.
At the northwest edge of the island, marking the mouth of the Poros channel is this lighthouse dating from 1870. The charming stone-built square lighthouse sits approximately 30 feet above sea level. Today, it is automatically operator, and you can not go inside. You can see it from a boat. To visit requires driving to the end of the dirt road and a 15-minute hike along the footpath. There is no shade or benches so go in the morning or late afternoon.
Beaches.
Despite its size, Poros has quite a few beaches. The beaches are sandy with pebbles so you may want aqua shoes or old sneakers. They have shady trees and different levels of service. All have nearby tavernas or beach bars, and some have water sports centers.
Love Bay.
One of the prettiest beaches on Poros, it is also one of the smaller ones. It doesn’t take a lot of people to make it crowded. The setting is a small bay with pine trees all around. Sunbeds and umbrellas are for rent, and a drink from the beach bar is a great way to cool off. The beach is along the road to the Russian Dockyard.
Askeli Beach.
Less than a mile east of the bridge, this is the busiest beach on the island. You can find sun beds, umbrellas, watersports, and beach bars here.
Mikro Neorio Bay.
This beach is closer to town on the dockyard road and smaller than Love Bay. It also has sunbeds and umbrellas and a beach bar with a view.
Poros is not famous for its beaches, and most travelers do not visit Greece for its beaches. There are several other small beaches on Poros. Megalo Neorio and Russian Dockyard beaches are nearby. Just beyond Askeli is Monastiri Beach, which is a full-service beach with boat tours leaving from nearby.
Less populated beaches are on the far north end of the island. Vayionia and Kalavria beaches have no services. You probably will not see anyone except for a few homes and occasional local fishermen. For scuba divers, offshore near Vayionia are a few remnants of an ancient settlement.
Off Poros Island
The 10-minute ferry ride from Poros to Galatas opens up many opportunities.
Lemon Forest (Lemonodasos).
Narrow roads twist and turn through more than 600 private properties spread across the hills near Galatas. In May, you can smell the lemon blossoms all the way to Poros. Unfortunately, the Lemon Forest is not what it used to be. At its peak in the 1800s, more than eight million lemons from this area were being exported as far away as Constantinople. There were waterfalls and water mills across the area to irrigate the trees.
By the 1960s, India and Mexico exported cheaper lemons, and many of the Galatas lemon growers abandoned their orchards. Today the watermills are dry and many orchards withered from lack of care. The annual output of lemons is thought to be around 25,000. There is a small group of volunteers hoping to revitalize the area. I really hope they succeed.
Burtzi of Poros.
A small island in the bay east of Poros is home to the ruins of Eidek Castle, built in 1827 to protect the port. It was the seat of John Kapodistrias while building his new Greek government. Here, he met the ambassadors of Russia, England, and France to determine the boundaries of the Greek state. Today, all that remains are some of the outside walls, and the Navy uses the island as a training center.
The Sunken City of Ancient Epidaurus.
Approximately 40 minutes drive from Galatas is the seaside town of Palaia Epidavros. From here, you can take sightseeing boats, kayaks, or snorkel trips to the sunken ruins of Ancient Epidaurus. The sunken city lies under 4-6 feet (1.5 to 2 meters) of water. Do not expect the underwater Atlantis of Hollywood creation. However, you can see Mycenaean tombs, parts of walls and building foundations, paved sections, and the agora.
Ancient Theatre at the Asclepieion of Epidaurus.
The ancient theater dates from the end of the 4th century B.C. and was probably the design of the architect Polykleitos the Younger. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is known for its symmetry and beauty. With a maximum capacity of 13,000 to 14,000 spectators, the theater still hosts music, singing, and dramatic performances. The adjacent site was a place to worship Asclepius, the god of medicine.
The Athens Epidaurus Festival presents programs here and in Athens during summer.
See Naplio for additional sightseeing in the Argolis area of the Peloponnese.
Poros Dining
Poros has an abundance of good tavernas and cafes. I suspect that is because it attracts more Greeks for overnight stays than tourists. In town or along the coast, I have never had a meal I did not enjoy.
After dinner, take a walk along the front street promenade to view the lights of the Peloponesse shimmering across the straight.
Paros is a great place to recharge. If you stay on the island, you should need very little energy. Unless you climb to the clock tower, the most strenuous activity should be which beach bar to have sundowners at tonight.