PAROS GREECE

Paros is somewhat of a contradiction. It’s where the young crowd likes to go in summer to party. And this is undoubtedly true in Naousa (Naoussa) town at night and the Santa Maria beach area in the day.

But Naousa is excellent for people like me who are in bed before the young people go out.

The island has a few small ancient sites to see, lovely beaches, excellent cuisine and even a winery you can visit for tastings.

Naousa is on Paros’s northeastern coast.

Ferries arrive year-round from Piraeus on their way to Naxos or Santorini. In the summer, connections increase and include Mykonos as well as smaller islands nearby.

Paros seems to have more year-round inhabitants than some of the neighboring islands. The year-round ferry is undoubtedly a part of that. There is an airport with flights to the mainland.

The majority of people arrive at the main port of Parikia, which many mistakenly call Paros Town. And there are a few who call it Chora (Greek for the main town.) This name is not 100% correct. Chora is right when the central city has the same name as the island (Mykonos, Naxos, Patmos.) And a few islands have a town by the name of Chora.

You being a traveler, I know you will use the name Parikia.

Get to know Parkia. It is larger than, and I think, a little more interesting than the more famous Naousa.

Ancient History.

Near Naousa, above the village of Koukounaries, there was a major Mycenaean settlement. They believe it dates back to the 13th-century B.C. Invaders destroy it in the 12th-century B.C. They rebuild a new one in the 10th-century B.C. Destroy it in the 7th-century B.C. By the 4th-century B.C., most of it goes for recycled building material.

A rugged hike/climb will take you to the top.

Historians are not sure why they would desert such a lofty perch, so simple to defend. My guess is they all had heart attacks trying to reach it. The path is more of a suggestion and is uneven. What few “structures” are there I suspect date from post-1975 with rocks from ancient times.

Climb for the view of Naousa, but there is very little Mycenaean to see.

Unfortunately, very few of the island’s ancient buildings survived. The few remains probably date to around 3200 B.C. when the Minoans began settling the west coast. The Ionians would take control around 1100 B.C. The Arcadians were next in line (circa. 1000 B.C.) Ruins of this ancient city are few and far between under current day Parikia. Most of the sites look like afterthoughts.

Recycling of building material leaves Paros with few ancient sites.

An Aegean Powerhouse

By the 8th century B.C. Paros’s location, in the center of the Cycladic Islands, allows it to become a maritime power. It rules the local waters, trades with ports as far away as Egypt, and has its colonies such as Thasos. There are some carved trenches near Drios that may or may not have been part of an ancient boatyard. These trenches are about the only trace of its maritime history.

And there are the ancient quarries near Kostos. The island made a fortune off of its famous marble. In addition to local structures, Paros marble can be found all over Greece including the ruins of Apollo’s Temple on Delos, the Venus of Milos, (on loan and overdue,) and the statue of Hermes (Praxiteles) and Dionysos at the Archaeological Museum of Olympia.

Hermes and the Infant Dionysus, also known as the Hermes of Praxiteles.

Today you can see the remains of the quarries, but unless you are a geologist, they are not going to hold too much interest,

The great news, while the sites and structures are sparse, the pottery, sculpture, and other finds from them are impressive. These items are on display at the museum in Parikia and show that the island was wealthy long ago. For history lovers, this is a definite place to visit.

Paros Archaeological Museum, one of the best in the islands.

More Ancient.

Around 338 B.C., Philip of Macedonia secures his authority over most of the Aegean islands after defeating the Theban and Athenian alliance. Paros is free of the Delian League it was forced to join in 374 B.C. Upon the death of Philip’s son, Alexander the Great in 323 B.C., his generals split up the empire. The islands, for the most part, are ignored and remain a city-state.

Asclepeion, Sanctuary of Pythian Apollo is one of the very few ancient sites left.

Around 145 B.C. the Romans take control of the island, and it continues to thrive. By the 7th century A.D., the Byzantine Empire is in turmoil, and the Cycladic islands became an afterthought.

Kastelli Castle was built to protect Naousa harbor.

With no one guarding the hen-coop, pirates set up house, and peace and prosperity come to an end. The modern-day word for “pirate” comes from… yes, the Greek word Prospathó, meaning “to attempt”.

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Less Ancient.

With the Fourth Crusade in 1204, the Byzantines lose and all of Greece, including the islands, is split up by the Franks as war prizes. Venetian Marco Sanudo swoops in, conquers the Cycladic islands, and makes himself the duke.

Temple of Panaya of Ekatontapiliani dating from the 17th century.

1451 A.D. and the growing powerhouse of Venice takes control of much of Greece. It will hold on to most of the islands until 1566.

1478 A.D. the Ottoman Hayreddin Barbarossa is born. He and his three brothers will become pirates, attacking the Christian ports of the Mediterranian. He will later receive a promotion to admiral of the Ottoman Navy.

Suliman, the Ottoman sultan, declares war on Venice (and all of its holdings). By 1537 they conquer most of the mainland and Peloponesse. They next turn their attention toward the Greek islands. By 1566, they take the Cycladic islands but have very little interest in them. They leave the Venetians in charge to run the islands and collect the taxes for the Ottomans.

The remains of a 17th-century watchtower.

In 1821 there is the Greek War of Independence to rid Greece of the Ottomans. Paros joins the Kingdom of Greece.

Paros Today.

For travelers not requiring beach time and nightlife into the wee hours, the off-season may be a great time to visit. Due to year-round daily ferry service from Piraeus (Athens), the island is open all 12 months. Cafes and shops are open, albeit shorter hours. And there is a sizeable year-round community, so there are people to talk to and get a feel for island life.

The restaurants are some of the best in Greece, and this time of year you can see which ones the locals frequent.

A stroll through Parakia will unveil pockets of color against a white background.

For those requiring some sun and nightlife into the wee hours, consider the early summer, (May – June) or September. The island has everything you need. July and August are also available. Just multiply the temperature, cost, and crowds during this period.

Sunsets on Paros are just as pretty as Mykonos or Santorini. Especially with a glass of local wine.

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What is in Paros for me?

See & Hear.

Visitors should see the Archeological Museum in Parikia. For the archeologists in the group, you can also visit a few of the areas where the excavations took place.

Paros has around 450 churches in total and over 30 monasteries. Today, only five of the monasteries are in operation. Many of them are photographic from the outside.

Another option is to sit in one of the many small squares, listening to and watching life happening all around you.

Taste & Smell.

Get lost in the side streets of Parikia or Naousa. Smell the gyros meat slowly roasting on a spit. Pass a bakery with fresh bread coming out of the oven. Better yet, be waiting to sample when the loaf comes out.

Feel.

Sit overlooking the harbor in Naousa, looking past the ruins of the Venetian fort and imagine a pirate ship coming around the point.

Stroll the streets (passageways) of the old sections of town in the early morning. Watch the merchants sweeping their front steps, cranking open the awnings, and talking back and forth.

Sip a Greek coffee and contemplate the day ahead. Will it be exploring history? Hiking, or a day at the beach? The possibilities are endless.

There may be better ways to start your day, but this one doesn’t suck.

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Should See Paros.

Parikia.

The front street is touristy and typical of many islands. Cars, trucks, and people inch closer and closer to the arriving ferries. They seem to think that standing between the people disembarking and the port exit will somehow speed up the process. From the top deck of a boat, it looks like Sparta going against Athens. However, when you are in the middle of it, it’s not as funny.

Due to its proximity to the port, Parikia has the highest number of hostels on the island. Barkers will be there to try and sell the hostels, motels, hotels, resorts, scooters, ATVs, rental cars, day tours, and every water activity to every person getting off the boat. Prepare for the person in front of you to stop without warning, either out of interest or fear of the shills.

Plan before leaving home, so you can hurry through and avoid this as much as possible.

Trucks, cars, scooters, and people weave in and out on the waterfront.

Along with the hostels, you will find several businesses trying to lure in those on a tight budget with cheap tours or vehicle rentals. You get what you pay…

My opinion, if you ask, is that ATVs and scooters are a quick way to tempt the Greek gods and goddesses. If you do not want to drive, check out the bus system (island-wide) or taxis.

Around Town

Panagia Ekatontapyliani – the church of 100 gates. The church, dating to 326 A.D., has parts that likely predate the adoption of Christianity by the Romans in 391 A.D.

It is the belief that Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, began the church during a visit while on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. She wanted a church closer to the port. Emperor Justinian, during his renovatio imperii, (restoration of the Empire) enlarged the church. (527 to 565 A.D.)

It is one of the best-preserved early Christian monuments of Greece.

Paros Archaeological Museum – is located just behind Panagia Ekatontapyliani. Outside of the major Greek cities, it is one of the best Greek archaeological museums in the country.

There are several impressive pieces from the Archaic and Classical periods.

The museum has two significant galleries. One has Archaic and Classical Sculpture found on Paros and Anti Paros. The other contains findings from the Neolithic, Early Cycladic, Mycenaean, Geometric, Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, and Roman periods. These include pottery, sculpture, and containers.

The outdoor and Atrium area have statues, architectural pieces, urns, and mosaic floors from Roman times.

The museum may be the best record of the island’s history.

The Old Town of Parikia

Start at the windmill next to the ferry port. The front street is for the tourist. Travel agencies, car rentals, and cafes with menus in multiple languages fill several blocks. Go deeper into the city to find the whitewashed maze of passageways.

The Frankish Castle – dating from the 1200s (A.D.) it sits at the top of the old town. Over the centuries it has been assimilated into other structures. Popular opinion is that several of the ancient sites became building material for the castle. Today, only parts of the wall are visible.

The remaining walls of the castle look like an over-sized tinker toy set.

Paros Ancient Cemetery – is a five-minute walk along the harbor away from the windmill. It seems fascinating from the outside. I have never found it, or the small on-site visitor center open to the public. You can see the site through the fence.

There is not much remaining at the ancient cemetery.

Evidence points to it being in use between the 8th century B.C. until the 3rd century A.D. The non-good news; nothing at the site has labels. The good news, many pieces are on display at the Archeological Museum, a five-minute walk away.

The on-site museum at the cemetery never seems to be open.

Just Out of Town

Sanctuary of Asclepius and Pythian Apollo – is approximately 25 minutes’ walk from the port windmill. There is no parking lot at the site and you may/may not be able to find a place to pull over near the site. The site has one small temple (maybe 5th century B.C.) and the foundation. The statue from the temple is in the museum.

Hellenistic Sculpture Workshop – is a five-minute walk from the museum along the main road that passes behind the museum. The good news is, there are places to park. The bad news, there’s not much to see. Partially excavated foundation walls and parts of a mosaic.

A mosaic, thousands of years old, lies abandoned in a field.

The good news, except for the church and Archeological Museum, all sites are free.

Delion Sanctuary of Apollo & Artemis – is a 15-minute drive from Parikia. It is at the top of the large hill on the north side of the harbor. Here are the remains of temples to Apollo (9th century B.C.) and Artemis, (5th-century B.C.)

Why is it a “Delion Sanctuary”? The front of the temple was facing the island of Delos, the birthplace of Apollo. The good news, on a crystal clear day, you can see Delos from here. The bad news, that, and the view of Parikia are the only thing to see here. Only a few foundation walls of the buildings are visible.

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Naousa

The Old Town of Naoussa – is similar to Parikia. A maze of whitewashed buildings with bright accents.

Port / Venetian Fortress – seems to be ground zero for the town. All roads and passageways seem to end up here eventually. The remains of a Venetian Fort dating from the 1400s can be seen rising out of the harbor. On a sunny day, you can also look at some ruins underwater. Although the guns are all gone, it still protects part of the port as a break wall.

Moraitis Winery is one of the few wineries in the Cycladic islands (outside Santorini) that you can visit. It is a ten-minute walk from the Church of the Assumption of Mary in Naousa. They have been producing wine since 1910 and are one of the larger producers on the island. Using indigenous grapes from their vineyard, they bottle around 15 white, red, and rose wines.

You can arrange tastings of six to fifteen wines by calling ahead. You can also pre-order cheese, charcuterie, and appetizer platters to go with your tasting. Visit the cellars while you are there.

Just Out of Town.

Mycenaean Acropolis – is just around the bay from Naousa. To me, you do this climb for the views, not the site. If you are going for the ruins, take a vivid imagination.

Paros Park – is on the point across the bay from Naousa. Here you can find beaches that have facilities as well as untouched beaches without any amenities. There are outdoor movies in the summer as well as a taverna. An old monastery now acts as a small museum.

Formerly getting power from oil, now by electricity. The lighthouse has been in continuous operation since 1887.

Perhaps the main draw is the three well-marked hiking trails they have to various parts of the peninsula. It takes about 20 minutes to reach the lighthouse, a super location for sunsets. Just head back before you lose too much light.

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Around the Island

Logovarda Monastery – is on the road from Parikia to Naousa. Dating from the 17th century, it is the island’s largest monastery. It has a library with rare manuscripts, a winery, and a cellar. Women are not allowed to enter.

Monastery of Agios Antonios – dating from 1642, it stopped being active in 1834. You can drive close to the top on a gravel one-lane road. You cannot go inside, but the views of the SE side of the island and across to Naxos are incredible.

Other scenic churches and monasteries include Agios Ioannis in the pedestrian section of Prodromos village. The Church of Holy Good, on an islet in the bay at Naousa is also photogenic.

Central Island

Lefkes Village – This was the first capital of the island due to its high location away from pirates. Here, you can walk the pedestrian passageways and admire a traditional mountainside village. There are some small museums to browse and local tavernas to whet your whistle. An easy, predominantly downhill hike starts in Lefkes and follows a trail and parts of an old Byzantine road to Prodromos.

The Church of Agia Triada tops the village of Lefkes.

The Marble Quarries

They are just outside the village of Marathi, approximately 20-minutes drive from Parikia. From the moment you arrive, you realize this is something special. First, there is a place for a few (small) cars to pull off the main road. Then there is the triumphant, marble-paved path leading up the hill. This site is going to be great.

The approach to the quarries is impressive.

Then the walkway abruptly ends with no quarry in view. There is a dirt path leading towards some deserted buildings. It becomes more a suggestion of a path soon after.

The remains of the French mining company.

There is no signage which is a shame. The buildings could be just old farmhouses. But they are not. They are the offices and storage of a French mining company, dating from 1844. The company was removing marble to build Napoleon’s tomb. They are the last known company to mine here. Remember, this is quality marble. The Venus of Milo emerged from this quarry.

The quarries are to the left off the path. Dating from the 3rd-century B.C. one of the entrances has a relief of the gods overhead. A common thought is that as many as 150,000 slaves were laboring here, during the Roman times.

Bring an imagination and sturdy shoes to explore.

There isn’t much to see inside the quarries from the top. (Picture a small canyon in the ground.) I recommend sensible, closed-toe shoes and long pants for the bushes. You will need a strong flashlight if you want to see further into the quarry/mines.

Southern Island

Folklore Art Museum Of Cycladic Civilization – is located just off the road before you reach the fishing village of Aliki. Under olive trees outside, you can view large size miniatures of Cycladic buildings and sites.

The inside may be of interest to those wanting to know more about Paros’s maritime history. There, you will find award-winning replicas of ships from all the historical periods.

From here it is a 20-minute drive to the “ancient docks” at Drios. (Look for the sign for Paralia Drios and drive to the end.) You can decide if they are old docks.

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Beaches

Northeast

In addition to the beaches at Paros Park:

Kolybithres – is across the bay from Naousa, You can drive, but it is more scenic to take a water taxi from Naousa. Once underway, the trip takes about 15 minutes each way. At the beach, there are several bays. There are some sunbeds available for rent in the main bay. (Arrive early.) A taverna is within walking distance.

A short hike from the water taxi dock is Kolimpithres Beach.

Little Santa Maria – is east of Naousa about 15 minutes drive depending on traffic. You will first come to Santa Maria beach. A large crescent on your right. Keep driving. There are several beach clubs here where you can feel the pulse of the music before you even leave your car.

You will pass through what looks like residential neighborhoods before you see the blue sign saying “Santa Maria” to the right. Follow the road to the end. The further past June 15th, the harder parking becomes but it is worth it. There are sun chairs and umbrellas for rent. A tasty seafood taverna is within walking distance.

Little Santa Maria Beach is past the larger Santa Maria Beach.

Southeast

A 30-minute drive from either Parikia or Naousa is a stretch of coast with several of the more popular beaches.

Piso Livadi – is a fishing village with a pleasant beach area. For the most part, this beach only attracts people staying in the area. It is not teeming with the beach clubs the young adults favor although there are numerous restaurants just behind the beach.

Piso Livadi village has a beach adjacent to the town.

Golden Beach & New Golden Beach – are very popular for water sports. Surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, and kiteboarding equipment is available for rental. There are kayaks, and canoes for paddling. Waterskiing, jet skiing, and scuba diving are also available.

Golden Beach, named for its golden color was the location of the Windsurfing World Championship for many years. The wind direction just offshore makes this ideal for sports requiring it. The beach can be breezy at times, and some days have almost no wind at all.

South

Aliki – the two beaches here, I think, are better for a walk after a large seafood meal at a nearby taverna. Both have rocky areas, and the sand is somewhat packed. But they do make good beach walks. I have never been here in August, but in other summer months, I have never seen a crowd.

West Coast

I am not a fan of sunbathing at the beach. So, I say the small stretches of sand on the west coast are ideal for me. They are scenic. They are not crowded like the east coast. Part of the reason being the number of rocks mixed into the sand.

To me, that’s the perfect beach for walking (with aqua shoes) as there is traction. It would not be the most comfortable for lounging. And many have restaurants or cafes where I can sit in the shade and enjoy the view of the water or a sunset.