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NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD-SEE ANCIENT OLYMPIA.
OLYMPIA VILLAGE
OUTSIDE OF OLYMPIA.
Olympia is a small town in the Elis region of the western Peloponnese peninsula. The village is most famous for its nearby archaeological site of the same name.
The site, a major Panhellenic religious sanctuary, is where the ancient Olympic Games took place.
Zeus is the prevailing god of this site. Unfortunately, not much of his temple remains.
Waring groups would lay down their weapons to attend the ancient Olympics. This meeting and sharing period would later bring the ancient Greeks together as a nation.
The Twelve Olympians, major deities of Ancient Greek mythology, live on Mount Olympus in northern Greece, near Thessaloniki.
Ancient History
Olympia lies in a broad valley along the Alfeiós River. The sanctuary’s original name Altis may come from the local Elean word meaning “the grove. ” The river creates a lush wooded area of olive and other trees. Walls, protecting the quadrangular site, were more than 200 yards long. Mount Kronos is a natural defense on the north side.
Experts have evidence of over 70 temples throughout the area. There were also alters, treasuries, statues, and structures for the athletes.
Due to the terrain, the site does not follow an actual north-south, east-west axis. In the middle of the site is the most famous temple, the one to Zeus.
The games took place every four years, beginning circa 776 B.C. Although there were sporting events, it was more of a political gathering to show off.
The oldest structures appear to date from circa 600 B.C. These buildings include the Temple of Hera, the Treasuries, and the Pelopion. Other structures that appear to be from this period are the athletic arenas and the senate-house (Bouleuterion).
The stadium gets its first enlargement and upgrades, with sloping sides to watch from, around 500 B.C.
Over the years, the size of the event continues to grow. They continue to add additional sporting contests.
The Golden Age
Olympia enjoys a renaissance between the 5th and 4th centuries B.C. Different city-states fund the building of new religious and secular buildings. The largest project is the building of the Temple of Zeus. The temple’s size, scale, and ornamentation exceed any previous structures.
The stadium goes through its final upgrading, and they build additional sporting facilities and Greek baths. During this period, they also create the hippodrome for chariot-racing.
From 400 B.C. on, they add the Metroon, the Echo Stoa, and the South Stoa.
Around 300 B.C., the games again grow in popularity requiring additional structures. These will include the Philippeion and the Leonidaion, the most massive structure to serve as housing for essential visitors. Other athletic buildings include the Palaestra, Gymnasium, and additional bathhouses.
In 200 B.C., they link the sports stadium to the sanctuary with a passage with a vaulted archway.
Not So Ancient Site
When the Romans take over, they open the games to all citizens of the Roman Empire. (Isn’t that everyone?) They start a program of new buildings, including the Nymphaeum. Next, a top to bottom remodeling of existing sites, including the Temple of Zeus. They replace the Greek baths with modern Roman ones and build an aqueduct.
During the 3rd century A.D., the western part of the Peloponnese saw several earthquakes and tsunamis that followed. The region from the coast to Olympia suffers substantial damage.
Invading tribes force the sanctuary to fortify the site. They use building material from the lesser buildings and monuments. Some of the Temple of Zeus’ destruction may have come from this. Despite the damage, and tearing down of structures, the Olympic festival continues until the last Olympiad in 393 A.D.
It is not natural disasters or raiders that bring the ancient Olympics to an end. The Christian emperor Theodosius I bans them due to their pagan temples and rituals.
The next emperor, Theodosius II, orders the destruction of pagan structures and the persecution of pagans.
The Temple of Zeus is a victim of this. The workshop of Pheidias survives as they make it into a Christian Basilica.
The Christians organize a smaller sporting competition but without the politics and pagan rituals. Additional earthquakes, flooding, and a nasty pandemic of plague finally lead to abandoning the site by 600 A.D.
Discovery
The site disappears over time. The findings of shells and mollusk point to additional tsunamis covering the area in over 20 feet of silt.
It is not until 1766 that an English antiquarian Richard Chandler discovers the site. But excavations do not begin until 1829 when a French team begins digging. In the 1870s, the German Archaeological Institute at Athens takes charge of excavating and preserving.
During the first 30 years, they begin in the middle and excavate the Temple of Zeus and Temple of Hera. Also, they uncover the Bouleuterion, Metroon, Philipeion, Echo Stoa, Treasuries, and Palaestra.
They record more than 14,000 objects, including the Nike of Paeonius and Hermes of Praxiteles. They unearth sculptures from the Temple of Zeus and numerous bronzes.
Just before 1936, and the Summer Olympics in Berlin, the team renews its excavating focusing on the area south of the stadium, they uncover the South Stoa, bath complex, and gymnasium.
After World War II, excavating uncovers Pheidias’ workshop, the Leonidaion, and the stadium’s north wall. They discover new bronze and ceramic objects along with terracotta roof tiles.
Some relevant dating evidence of the stadium came to light in recent excavating. Also, there has been the uncovering of graves, the Prytaneion, and Pelopion.
The Archeological Site Today.
The Archaeological Site of Olympia is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Some of the should-see attractions include:
The Temple of Zeus (circa 470 B.C.) – was home to a giant sculpture of the god. The gold and ivory statue was the art of Pheidias. The temple and statue become one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. It sits towards the middle of the complex. It is on the site of an earlier temple to Zeus.
North of the Temple of Zeus
Temple of Hera (circa 590 B.C.) – Hera is the queen of the Greek gods and wife of Zeus. Her Doric temple measures one hundred and sixty-nine feet long by sixty-three feet wide. The height was around fifty feet. There is no record of the architect.
Echo Stoa (circa 200 B.C.) – is over 300 feet long and would echo. It serves as a border between the stadium and temples.
Pelopion – is the tomb of Pelops of Greek mythology fame. Consisting of five sides, it is an altar for animal sacrifices to the god. It is one of the first pagan structures to go.
Philippeion (338 B.C.) – was an Ionic circular memorial to Philip II of Macedon and his family, including his son Alexander the Great. It is the only structure inside the sanctuary paying tribute to a human.
South of the Zeus Temple
Bouleuterion (circa 390 B.C.) – is two buildings, with a porch attaching them to a square hall. As the seat of the Elean Senate, it was responsible for the organization of the games. They would choose the athletes and rule on any offenses.
South Stoa (circa 350 B.C.) – was on the south side of the temple separating it from the agora (market).
Palaestra (circa 200 B.C.) – is part of the gymnasium. A square building with walls over 200 feet long, its courtyard was full of sand for boxing and wrestling.
Leonidaion (circa 330 B.C.) – was the lodging for the athletes. It was the largest building on the site and near the gymnasium.
Studio of Pheidias(s) (circa 470 B.C.) – was the workshop of the greatest of all ancient Greek sculptors. No original works of his survive. Did I mention they were of gold and ivory?
Museums
Archaeological Museum of Olympia – is one of Greece’s most prestigious museums. The museum’s permanent exhibition contains finds from the excavations dating from prehistoric times to the Early Christian period.
The Museum of the History of the Ancient Olympic Games – has over 400 exhibits. These date from the prehistoric period to the 5th century A.D. The displays are in thematic groups with the majority coming from the Olympia site. There is a small collection of ancient works of art from other important sites in Greece.
Olympia Town
Floka Theater – is a modern open-air theater, but with the standards of ancient theaters. Between June and August, there are performances and concerts by well-known Greek artists.
Agriturismo Magna Grecia – is a farmhouse that a 4th generation family is running west of Olympia village. The family is producing P.D.O. Olive oil. Also, for their olives, wines, and other fresh farm products. They offer several programs from winery tours to cooking classes and farm to fork culinary experiences.
Klio’s Honey Farm – is north, just outside the village of Olympia. Here, three generations of the same family have been keeping bees and making honey. Also, they grow other local produce and nuts. A small store sells honey, jams, spoon sweets, and other seasonal products.
Or sample them under a tree with a cup of coffee or a glass of fresh juice. What a great way to take a break.
Outside Olympia
Monastery of Sepeto – is an 11th-century monastery and church clinging to a steep rock over the Tritona River. The site is famous for its unique view and architecture. It is approximately one hour’s drive southeast from Olympia.
Andritsaina – is a traditional and picturesque hillside village. Here, you can see stone houses, pedestrian streets, fountains, and charming tavernas. It is approximately 20 minutes drive through the hills from the monastery.
Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae – is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The temple, dating from the 5th century B.C., honors the Greek god of healing and the sun. The columns are in all three ancient Greek architectural orders: Doric, Ionic, and the oldest Corinthian capital in Greece. It is approximately 20 minutes drive from Andritsaina village.
The journey from Olympia is about 90 minutes each way. Combine the monastery, community, and Temple into a six-hour experience.
Other Archeological Sites
For the Greek ruins junkie, there are several small sites. They are all on the tops of hills, in the region of Bassae and Sepeto Monastery. Some have proper signage, while others require excellent GPS coordinates. Most of these sites require uphill climbing over loose rock and gravel. There are no services at most locations. These are authentic diamonds in the rough with little to no restoration. (And NO tour buses). They are ruins in the most real sense. Starting from Bassae:
Archaeological Area Figalia – is approximately 25 minutes southwest from the temple at Bassae. In ancient times, Figalia was one of the most substantial Arcadian cities and home to the temple of Epicurean Apollo. There is official brown with yellow letters directional signs. The last few hundred feet are on a dirt road, and it feels like you are going through people’s yards. There are only foundations here.
Lepreon Archaeological site – is approximately 55 minutes west of Figalia. Look for a light yellow directional sign on the west end of town. The marker is parallel to the road you are on, so do not expect any advance notice. It points up a gravel road. The entire site is on the side of a hill, so you are always climbing. The site offers a beautiful view of the gulf Kyparissiakos. There are some wall sections, a few Doric columns, and an altar at the temple entrance. The Temple of Demeter is at the southern (lowest) part of the citadel. There are Macedonian fortifications and part of a city gate further up. From here, it is approximately a one-hour drive back to Olympia along the coast.
Starting from Monastery of Sepeto:
Alifeira – has a temple of Athena. At least that’s what they say. Supposedly, it is a five-minute drive from the village of Alifeira, which is almost right next to the monastery. There is no sign where to stop. And I did not find the “rocks” I was to use for a landmark. There is no sign of any ruins, and there is no visible path looking up from the road.
Ancient Theater Platiana – is approximately 40 minutes’ drive west from the Alifeira village area. Look for the small brown directional sign on your left. It will be pointing up a muddy (or dirt if it has been dry) road. I would only do this drive with a four-wheel vehicle. Follow the mud road as far as you can drive. From there, hike to the top. It’s not awful. Ancient Platiana looks like it covered most of the ridge top. The theater, more like a bowl or hollow, is the most significant ruin. The views are amazing.
Skillountia temple of Athena – is approximately 40 minutes’ drive from Platiana going northwest. You will only see the brown directional marker if you are driving east from Nea Skillountia. Follow the paved road to the end. The site is pretty much the foundation of one Doric temple. A few of the walls are 2-3 feet high. But 80% of the temple is now building material in homes in the nearby village. From here, it is approximately 40 minutes back to Olympia via the town of Krestena.
Temple Summary
Once again, these sites are only for people with vivid imaginations and an (unhealthy) love for Greek ruins. If you have billygoat on either side of the family, that will help.
There is not one, but two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the area. Stick with them. They are easier to reach.