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Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD-SEE NAXOS.
VILLAGES.
BEACHES.
It’s the largest of the Cyclades island group, and possibly more popular with Greek vacationers than Mykonos or Santorini.
Naxos sits just under 30 miles due south of Mykonos and approximately 65 miles north of Santorini. And yet the tourists from other countries miss it.
True, it does not have the dramatic landscape of Santorini. Or the overpriced accommodations and entertainment that come with Mykonos’s jet-set. And I am O.K. with that.
It has more archeological sites than Mykonos. Delos is on another island. However, it cannot compete with Akrotiri on Santorini.
However, it has numerous inland villages worth exploring, and it is easy to spend a whole day doing that. Here you will find locals wearing traditional clothing and doing things the old fashion way, by hand, and the strength of their back. Naxos is also way ahead of the other islands in agriculture. The locals live off of what they raise with fresh produce left over for the visitors.
Ancient History.
Artifacts from a cave on Mount Zas date back to before 6900 B.C. This is supposedly where the young Zeus was hiding from his father. The early inhabitants were farmers, and they prospered. In 476 B.C., they were doing so well they attempted to break from the Delian League, being ruled by Athens.
The league looked good on paper. The populated islands of Greece, possibly over 300 at that time, would combine their resources and money to defend themselves from the Persians. Great idea. Almost immediately, Athens began using all the money and resources as “their” money.
Naxos was a significant source of food and money, and Athens was not letting it go anywhere.
For several hundred years, the Greek islands fight amongst themselves, while the Roman Empire conquers the mainland.
Less Ancient.
With the splitting of the Roman Empire in 395 A.D., the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) forces from Constantinople show interest in all of Greece.
With the Fourth Crusade in 1204, the Byzantines lose, and all of Greece, including the islands, is split up by the Franks as war prizes. Venetian Marco Sanudo swoops in, conquers the island, makes himself the duke, and gives it the Venetian name Nasso.
1451 A.D. and the growing powerhouse of Venice takes control of much of Greece. It will hold on to most of the islands until 1566.
Suliman, the Ottoman sultan, declares war on Venice (and all of its holdings). By 1537 they conquer most of the mainland and Peloponesse. They next turn their attention towards the Greek islands. By 1566, they take Nasso but have very little interest in it. They leave the Venetians in charge to run the island and collect the taxes for the Ottomans.
In 1821 there is the Greek War of Independence to rid Greece of the Ottomans. By 1832, Naxos joins the Greek State.
Naxos Today.
The island is still the most fertile of the Cyclades. Mount Zeus (3,294 feet) is the highest peak in the Cyclades, and hooks passing rain clouds, collecting more fresh water than any of the nearby islands.
The island seems to be more popular with Greeks on vacation than tourists, and I am alright with that. It has a few ancient sites, but not major ones.
It has some of the best beaches in Greece, but most Americans do not go to Greece for the beaches.
According to mythology, Naxos is the home of Dionysus, the god of wine. The fertility of the soil leads to excellent cuisine with a focus on local seafood and potatoes, tomatoes, olives, and cheese. And the people. That’s why I like going to the less touristy places because you see the real heart of the location, its people.
The sunsets in Naxos, are just as good as the ones in Mykonos or Santorini.
What is in Naxos for me?
See & Hear.
Visitors should focus on the “ancient” structures dating from 500 – 400 BC. Don’t just look at history, but experience it.
Immerse yourself in one of the small but intriguing museums.
Another option is to sit on the Promenade, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Stroll the Chora. Force yourself to get lost in the side streets. Smell the gyros meat slowly roasting on a spit. Pass a bakery with fresh bread coming out of the wood-burning oven. Did I say pass? Turn in.
Feel.
Sip a unique local liqueur or glass of wine in a whitewashed courtyard.
Watch the shadows grow longer across the wall where a content cat catches the last rays of the day.
Contemplating your day exploring a centuries-old quarry, or the day you spent at the beach.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Naxos.
In Town.
Naxos has a small commercial airport, but I prefer to arrive by sea. As your ferry comes into port, you have two ways to look. One is the town to your right.
Naxos Town (Chora)
The town is built on a hill with a Venetian castle near the top. The older section is pedestrian streets in the middle with a road around it.
Except in the early morning when trucks are making deliveries, pedestrians far outnumber vehicles. A broad promenade runs from the ferry pier to the southwestern end of the small boat harbor. Stores and numerous tavernas dot the scene.
Portara
To your left, as you come off the ferry, is a landmark that tells you beyond doubt that you are on Naxos. The Portara marks the doorway to an ancient Temple to Apollo with construction, probably starting around 522 B.C. Funding is from the Tyrant Lygdamis until he makes the mistake of falling out of power. The temple building comes to a halt. The remaining door portal is close to 20 feet high by 11 feet wide.
Originally it sat on a small island, but you can now access it via a causeway. The temple faces the island of Delos to the north. Delos was the island of Apollo. This orientation is the only circumstantial evidence they have to tie it to Apollo.
Some speculate that it would be for the island’s local god, Dionysius. That makes sense. If the wrong god is getting credit, it will not be the first time in Greece that happened. Why didn’t the Greeks use Sharpies when labeling their temples 2500 years ago?
As with so many ancient buildings in Greece, later builders use them for free building material. The only thing left is the Portara, which was probably too heavy to remove.
Portara Today
Today, its most popular use is as a picture frame for the god Helios. Every night, hundreds gather to take a photo of the sun setting through the Portara. If you are O.K. with the crowds, it’s not the worst place for a sunset. Do not stay too long after sunset, as the way down is over rock and not lighted.
Although the sun does not rise “through” the Portara, if you like quiet time, I have had the entire site to myself on more than one occasion.
Kastro
Once at the top of the town, and now near it, the Kastro (castle) dates from 1207. First, it was the duke’s seat of power for all the Cyclades for 300 years.
Then the Venetians rescued it and used it for the next 300+ years. Within the walls, they added residences, a Catholic Cathedral in the 13th century, and a school. Around 1900, Nikos Kazantzakis, who is born on Crete, comes to Naxos to study at this school. Crete, at that time, had yet to join Greece. He would go on to become Greece’s most celebrated modern writer with The Last Temptation of Christ, Captain Michalis, and Zorba the Greek.
Domus Venetian Museum
Part museum, part house (and the lines are very blurry) this charming museum is in a home over 800 years old. It belongs to the Dellarocca-Barozzi family. Here you can see Naxos objects dating from the Cycladic period thru the Victorian times. They also hold a cultural festival with music performances and movies.
While in the Kastro, make sure to check if they are open. Due to a family “disagreement” in 2017, the museum has not always been able to keep permanent opening hours. Let’s hope they can fix this. It is a treasure.
Byzantine Museum.
Another hidden gem is this museum located in the Barozzi and Crispi family tower. To see the inside of the four-story building and the view of the harbor is worth the admission. The collection of Byzantine sculptures from the 7th to 12th centuries is the whipped cream on the cake. Check the opening hours before starting the climb.
Mitropolis On-Site Museum.
A ten-minute stroll from the waterfront near the ferry pier is the Mitropoleos Square. While excavating the square, city walls from the Mycenaean period (around 1.200 B.C.), they uncover some house foundations. The city built the Mitropolis On-Site Museum around the site.
While not a major museum, it will take 20-30 minutes to see everything, it is a smart presentation and preservation of the site.
The Greek Orthodox Cathedral fronts onto this square. The graphite pillars, dating back to 1878, may come from the island of Delos.
Relics on display include a gospel that may have been a donation from Empress Catherine of Russia. It’s worth a quick look if you are in the square.
Outside of Town.
Dionysos Sanctuary
Outside of the staff, I have never seen any other people at this site. That alone makes it a sanctuary. Or it may be the signs to reach it are not the easiest to follow. For the 3-4 euro entrance fee, it is worth a visit.
Dating from approximately the 6th century B.C., the Romans rebuild it in the 1st century B.C., and it became a Christian Church in the 5th century. Over the next 15 centuries, it became “free” building material, and much of it has gone away. There are a few columns and part of the foundation remaining.
There is also a small building near the front that houses items found at the site.
Temple of Demeter (Temple of Sangri)
Dating from around 530 B.C., it is the most significant archeological site on the island. It was probably to honor Demeter, goddess of the grain, and harvest. Some believe it was to her daughter Kore (Persephone) goddess of the underworld.
Much of the temple was “borrowed” to build a Christian basilica in the 5th century A.D. Do not miss the museum, hiding behind the temple hill.
Bazeos Tower
This typical Venetian tower, dating back to the 17th century, was a summer residence, agricultural storehouse, and in case of pirate attacks, a fort and signal tower.
In the early 1800s, it served as the monastery of the True Cross (“Timios Stavros”). Later it was home to potters who lived and practiced their craft. It became the property of the new Greek State in 1831. The new government, finding itself the new owner of many structures and in need of money, sold the property to the Bazeos family, who still owns it.
Today you can tour the tower. Also, check around for upcoming performances or exhibits in its cultural center. They are predominantly in the summer months but may be in the Spring and Fall as well.
Villages.
There are several villages scattered about the island that are perfect for half a day or a full day of experiencing island life. Some favorites in the central part of the island include Chalki (Chalkio or Halkio) and Apeiranthos (Aperathos.) Towards the north are the towns Koronos, Koronida, and Apollonas. See more of them on the See Naxos page.
Beaches.
As Greek beaches go, some of the nicest are on Naxos.
Agios Georgios (St George) Beach.
This beach is the favorite for many of my Greek friends. It may be walking distance from your hotel, depending on where you are staying. There are several beach clubs renting chairs and offering food and beverage.
There are also other cafes for those not wanting the club scene. The water is shallow for several yards, so it does attract families, especially mid-June to the end of August.
Agios Prokopios Beach.
Less than a 10-minute drive from town on the other side of the airport is this beach, which has two personalities. Towards the south, it has sunbeds, umbrellas, and water sports facilities.
At the other end, although there are some umbrellas, there are no shops or cafes. This lack of development gives the beach more of a wild beach vibe. Many consider this one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece.
Agia Anna
Just south of Agios Prokopios is Agia Anna, which merges with Plaka beach. It may be even prettier than Agios Prokopios and has small resorts and rental villas set back from the beach. Around the point at the southern end of Agia Anna beach is Ayia Anna Nudist Beach. There are no services here. Bring what you need.
Kastraki Beach
Further south on Naxos’s west coast is Kastraki. This beach is a windsurfer’s paradise due to the wind direction. Services are minimal. There are no beach chair rentals, and limited food is available from a small market and one restaurant. The reason you go to this beach is for windsurfing.