BACK TO GREECE
Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
MONEMVASIA TODAY
THE ISLAND.
THE MAINLAND.
The Gibraltar of the East, the Minoan Promontory, the Rock, Malmsey, Napoli de Malvasia, – it goes by many names.
A rock formation on the Peloponesse’s east coast, jutting out into the Myrtoan Sea. The what?
The official name of this patch of water is the Myrtoan Sea. It stretches from the Peloponesse east to the Cyclades.
To the north is the Saronic Gulf, where Pireaus sits. To the south is the Sea of Crete.
They are all part of the Aegean Sea.
So what is the story of this geographical and natural wonder?
Ancient Monemvasia
With vertical cliffs on all sides and its separation from the mainland, you may think this was an impressive acropolis.
But no signs are indicating ancient Greek inhabitants on the top.
Maybe the walls were too imposing.
And in ancient times, it was part of the mainland. It was not until circa 375 A.D. during an earthquake that it became an island.
The name comes from the Greek, Mone (single) and emvassi (entrance), referring to the land bridge pre-earthquake.
However, the ancient region, which today is Laconia, of the southern Peloponesse has very few records of Ancient Greeks.
Sparta, approximately 60 miles north of Monemvasia, seems to be the end of civilization in ancient times.
Closer to Monemvasia are the ruins of Epidaurus Limera, a Mycenean outpost from the 6th Century B.C.
There is probably a small trading camp at the base due to the protected waters, but little ancient Greek History.
The Romans
When the Romans arrive at circa 146 B.C., they improve the existing towns but do not expand.
Civilization still seems to end along an imaginary line running from Sparta to Megalopolis in the southwest.
Not So Ancient Monemvasia.
The rest of the Peloponesse falls off the Roman radar when the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Empire begins expanding circa 395 A.D.
The Romans, then Byzantines do not abandon Greece, but their focus in on the clash between Rome and Constantinople. Then another threat from the east.
While the Roman Empire fights with the Byzantine Roman Empire, invaders from the north invade the chicken coop.
The town and fortress of Monemvasia date from circa 583. The first inhabitants are people from mainland Greece fleeing the invaders.
There are no records of any serious breaches during the first 400 years. Also, during this time, the town becomes a vital harbor and trading center.
Circa 1147, the fortress wards off the Arabs invading from the south and the Normans from the north.
Bye Bye Byzantine
1204, and the Pope’s troops “accidentally” sack Constantinople during the bloody land-grab they call the Fourth Crusade.
The former Byzantine lands are up for grabs to whoever has the bigger army and bankbook.
Most of the Greek mainland and all of the Peloponesse goes to the Despotate of Epirus. He renames the Peloponesse as The Morea.
Two opposing groups of Franks begin battling over possession of the Morea.
William II of Villehardouin receives the town circa 1248, for his help against the Byzantines. Fourteen years later, he becomes a prisoner of war. He uses the village as part of his ransom to the Byzantine Emperor Michael VIII Palaiologo.
The Byzantines are back.
For the next two hundred years, It remains a part of the Byzantine Empire. During this time, it will become a seat for an imperial governor. Also, an important supply port for Byzantine operations against the Franks. From the harbor, they would export the local Monemvasia, (Malmsey) wine.
The protected waters make it a perfect hideout for the corsairs attacking Arab ships in the Levant (Eastern Mediterranian.)
Due to its wealth, the town attracts the attention of the Aragon fleet, who, circa 1292 attack. They manage to sack the lower city.
Circa 1397, the Despot of the Morea (governor-like over most of the Peloponesse), makes a powerplay for Monemvasia. He disbands the local government, which appeals to Sultan Bayezid. He sends Turkish troops who return control of Monemvasia to the local government.
Try A Different Approach
Then Something happens. Details are blurry, but sometime during the next 20 years, Monemvasia becomes a possession of Venice. Soon after, they turn it over to the Despot. This time, the Sultan does not step in.
That may be due to the changes going on in the Ottoman Empire.
By 1453, Christian Constantinople falls to the Ottomans. Within five years, the Ottoman conquests reach the Peloponesse (Morea). The Ottomans seize all of the Morea except Monemvasia. They try for two years before moving on to the west and new lands to conquer.
The Despot of the Morea, with nothing else left, tries selling it to the Ottomans. When they decline, he eventually sells it to the Pope.
The Pope cannot or does not offer protection to this oasis in the middle of the Ottomans. Within four years, the Venetians are back.
Venitian Influence.
The Venetians do a better job of guarding this waterside location, probably because of their naval superiority.
For the next 40 years, Venetian Monemvasia does well, while the Venetian-Ottoman clash is taking place all around.
Unfortunately, Venice is slowly losing, and circa 1503 agrees to a peace agreement with the Sultan. Venice keeps the island of Monemvasia but must surrender all the mainland where their crops and vineyards are growing.
Venice holds on to the island. Locals try farming fields inside the fortress, but Venice must import the rest.
In 1520, Suliman the Magnificent comes to power. He will grow the Ottoman Empire to its greatest limits.
In 1537, The Ottomans break the peace with Venice and attack Corfu. Their navy, under Barbarossa, seizes the last Venetian strongholds in the Aegean, Andros, Naxos, Paros, Santorini, Nauplio, and Monemvasia.
Ottoman Rule
The Ottomans will rule over the Peloponesse for approximately the next 200 years.
At first, those inhabitants not wanting to live under Turkish rule were able to leave.
Circa 1687, the Venetians retake Morea. They scramble to reorganize it, making Monemvasia the capital of the Laconia region.
But they do not have enough military to protect it.
At the end of 1714, the Ottomans send 70,000 troops to retake the Morea. Within nine months, they control the peninsula.
The Russians Are Coming
By 1760, the Ottoman Empire is spreading itself too thinly over much of southern and eastern Europe. They are not able to defend themselves well.
Russia seizes upon this and starting in Poland circa 1768, starts collecting real estate.
The Russians have already been courting the Greeks, (well everyone from Venice southward) to rise against the Ottomans.
The Russians arrive in the Southwest corner of the Morea in early 1770. They come, but without the troops, they were promising. Very quickly, mutual distrust develops between the Greek and Russian leaders.
With little help from the Russians, the Greeks split into two groups. One in the east and the other in the west of the peninsula.
The Ottomans, needing all their soldiers on the Russian front, send Albanian mercenary troops to the Morea. They slaughter the rebels.
The Ottomans ask the Albanians to stay and police the area. When the Ottomans can not pay them, the Albanians start looting and massacring the towns of the Morea. With the end of the Russo-Turkish war, the Ottomans in the area become targets. It is not until 1779 that military forces push the Albanians out of the peninsula.
Striking The Match
With the end of the Russo-Turkish war, Russia gets something, the Ottomans get something, and the Greeks get nothing.
The Greeks are tiring of having someone over them. Disdain for the Ottomans and mistrust for the Russians continues to grow.
What rebels are still alive, launch small attacks. By circa 1814, the society of Friends (Filiki Eteria) forms to liberate Greece. The idea comes, in part by the success of the French revolution a few years earlier.
The plan calls for multiple revolts across Greece on March 25, 1821.
When the Ottoman authorities discover the plan, rebels in the north begin their revolt on March 6. It is not successful, but it inspired others.
Greeks in the Morea (Maniots) declare war on March 17. They capture Tripolitsa, the Ottoman command in the Morea.
In July of that year, troops march into Monemvasia, liberating it from Ottoman rule.
Unfortunately, by 1824, the Greek factions cannot agree and begin infighting among themselves.
At the same time, the Ottomans ask the Egyptians for soldiers. In exchange for land, the Egyptians agree.
The Egyptians land on the Peloponnese in February 1825. Within ten months, most of the peninsula is under their control. When Athens falls in the next year, it looks like the Greek revolution is over.
The Plot Thickens
By 1927, Europe’s three Great Powers (Russia, Britain, and France) fear the Ottomans are growing in strength again.
They send their fleets to intercept the Ottoman-Egyptian navy at Navarino. When the Ottomans do not step down, the Allies send their fleet to the bottom.
This turn of events energizes the revolutionaries.
With the Allies assisting, Egyptian troops withdrawal by 1828.
The 1830 Treaty of Constantinople recognizes Greece as an independent state.
Prince Otto of Bavaria becomes the first king of Greece by 1832.
However, that is the mainland and Peloponesse only. It will not be until 1948 and the end of WWII that all of today’s Greece will be one.
World War II
Monemvasia is one of the luckier locations in Greece during World War II. By the beginning of 1941, the Germans are swarming into the Peloponesse. By April, they reach Monemvasia, one of the last evacuation ports for the retreating New Zealand troops.
The Germans use Monemvasia as a hospital and recovery area for German soldiers. Because of this, they do not use the village for targeting practice as they do so many other Greek treasures.
The town has few active soldiers as the population is predominantly medical staff and their patients.
The rebels do not attack, and the Germans do not reciprocate with the violence they do elsewhere in the Peloponesse.
Monemvasia Today
The name Monemvasia refers to the rock and the Byzantine village at its base.
The 1971 bridge links the island, once again, to the outside world.
The village on the mainland, at the other end of the bridge, goes by the name of Gefira.
A 2011 reform re-creates the municipality of Monemvasia. It now oversees the districts of Voies, to the south. Also, Asopos to the west and Molaoi, and Zarakas to the north. Together, they make up the entire southeast peninsula of the Peloponesse, covering over 360 square miles.
There are around 22,000 year-round inhabitants in the municipality.
In Gefira, the year-round population is around 800. On Monemvasia, it is less than 50. Many of the houses are now boutique hotels or expensive weekend homes.
On July 23, they celebrate their independence as it is the day Tzannetakis Grigorakis, and his men arrive. Speeches are recounting their liberation. But everyone is there to see something they do in many ports, especially along the Peloponesse.
They take a small boat. Some towns add pieces to make it look like a pirate or Ottoman ship. Then they fill it with as many fireworks as they can without it sinking. After dark, they tow it out in the harbor and set it on fire. A little scary, and probably against all safety regulations, it is an incredible sight.
What is in Monemvasia for me?
See & Hear.
The views from the Uppertown, of course, are fantastic. But even from the Lower Town, there are many scenic vistas. Stop and listen. Do you hear the cars and scooters? Not on this island, you don’t.
Taste & Smell.
There always seems to be a breeze blowing off the sea when I visit, carrying the scent of saltwater. At a nearby taverna, sip a glass of local wine and watch the shadows shift across the Lower Town.
Feel.
Sitting on an island terrace looking over the water and sipping wine from the mainland in the distance. Thinking back over your day of climbing to the Upper Town, exploring Mystra, or visiting a local winery brings a smile.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
The Island
Starting at the top is the Acropolis and Upper Town, the original town of Monemvasia. At the very top is the Fortress of Goulas.
Walking over the ruins, you can see the foundations of Byzantine houses and public buildings. Once they fortify the Lower Town, the servants and workers live there, leaving the Upper Town for the wealthy.
There is a large cistern that collects water.
- St. Sophia
The only intact structure begins as a Byzantine church sometime during the reign of Emperor Andronikos II Paleologos. He rules around circa 1300 A.D.
He dedicates the church to Panagia Hodegetria, which means “the One who Shows the Way.” An Icon will depict Mary holding the Baby Jesus and pointing towards Jesus, who “shows the way.”
The interior is a simple design with a dome on the top. The frescos date from the same time as the construction.
In the Venetian times, it becomes a Catholic Convent. The Venetian loggia along the façade dates from this time.
It appears the Ottomans did not use it as a mosque.
After the winning of Greece’s Independence, they dedicate the church to Sophia. In the Orthodox Church, Sophia is the feminine personification of divine or Holy Wisdom.
The Walk
A walk (zig-zagging staircase) links the Upper Town to the Lower Town. The highest point of the Upper (Kastro) Town is just under 1000 feet above sea level.
They say it takes 20 minutes to do the climb. Maybe if you are part billy-goat. Take your time and enjoy stops for taking in the view. The Upper City isn’t going anywhere.
The walls on the waterside of the walk were to make the trail invisible from enemy ships.
Wear walking shoes with a rubber sole. These rocks are slippery from 1500 years of people wearing them down.
I recommend the early morning because it is usually more refreshing, and you beat the bus tours. Also, they close the upper town access in the early afternoon.
Lower Town
In the Lower Town, there are very few specific things to see. You need to wander and just take it all in. Find the little courtyard that doubles as a laundry and an outdoor living room. See the small bistro table and chairs on a landing, the flowers everywhere, or the staircase leading?
Today, there are only 15 of the original 40 churches in Monemvasia. See how many you can find.
As you enter the gate from the causeway, there is only one main street in the Lower Town. It runs from here to the far wall and as you enter. Everything is uphill to the left, or downhill to the right, off of this main street.
There are no motor vehicles in Monemvasia. Supposedly they still use donkeys to move items. I have only seen this one time and early in the morning.
- The Church of Elkomenos Christos (Website in Greek)
This small Byzantine church is easy to find as it is on the main square and has a bell tower. It, like many of the structures, sits on the foundation of an earlier structure. The Lower Town suffers many attacks over the years. This building dates from circa 1697. Elkomenos Christos (Christ in Chains) refers to the walk by Jesus to the cross. Many of the Icons inside depict Christ this way. There is a fee to enter.
The building house the collection began as a Muslim mosque circa the 1600s. It will serve for several other uses, including a prison before today’s use. The collection includes items from the early Christian, Venetian, and Ottoman periods of the Kastro (castle) of Monemvasia. It is a great starting place before exploring the rest of the town, which is like a museum.
Monemvasia Lighthouse
This trail is more of a scenic walk than a hike. The most challenging part of the trip is finding the hole in the wall that leads to the lighthouse. Find Aghios Nicholas church. Follow the path on the left (uphill) side of the church, and it will lead you to the wall.
From the wall, the trip is approximately a 1.2-mile each way to the lighthouse. It is slightly downhill going and uphill coming back. The current tower is a short building dating from 1896. You are not able to enter either of the two small buildings on the site. On the return, you get a perspective not too many people see of Monemvasia.
Losing Yourself!
Just start strolling.
and see what you find. A little taverna here, a guest house there. Here a marker, there a path along the ramparts, everywhere something to see. Ol Monemvasia has much to see.
Nearby Monemvasia.
There are beaches in the area ranging from empty to full service. I do not go to Greece for beaches, so I am not the best resource for these. If I go, it is to beaches with full-service and the fewest rocks in the sand mixture. I do not partake in surfing, jet-skiing, or parasailing. However, I will jump in on a summer afternoon after a day of exploring.
Hellenistic Fortress
To the south of Monemvasia, above Ag Stephanos are very few remains of a circa 250 B.C. fortress. More a lookout post than a fortress, its purpose would be as a border outpost of Epidaurus Limira. If a local points it out, you may be able to see a part of it.
Kinsterna Hotel
Although I usually do not point out hotels, this one has a little history. Parts of this mansion turned hotel date from circa 1750. The early history of the estate is hazy.
Their use of the original cistern gives another glimpse into early life in this area. Besides the Byzantine architecture, there are also elements of Venetian and Ottoman.
Rumor has it I may enjoy wine tasting here which includes their house Monemvasia wine.
Monemvasia Wine
The Byzantines began making wine in this area since before the 13th century. Remnants of the wine containers from Monemvasia are still popping up in excavations all over the Mediterranean. During the Venetian occupation, they call it “Malvasia.”
Today, the local wine has P.D.O. Status. The P.D.O. Monemvasia-Malvasia wine region includes the areas of Asopos, Voion, Molai in addition to Monemvasia. For some reason, the term Malvasia now usually applies to Italian wines.
The white Monemvasia wine contains a minimum of 51% of the Monemvasia grape. They blend it with other Greek varieties, including Asirtiko, Kidonitsa, Roditis, and others. The red PDO Monemvasia may include wine from Thrapsa, Mavroudi, or Mandilaria grapes. Unfortunately, the wineries from hundreds of years ago are no longer. The good news is that a more recent vintner is reviving old vines and rescuing old grape varieties.
This winery, dating from circa 1997, is approximately a 25-minute drive west of Monemvasia. Here, they produce over 12 varieties of wine that have won over 100 silver, gold, or platinum awards. To drink wine where the grape is growing is always delightful. When the wine has a history over 700 years old, that’s a bonus. The winery is open Tuesday to Saturday, but I recommend confirming, especially in the off-season.
Further Afield
Zarakas
North of Monemvasia is the Zarakas region.
Epidaurus Limera
An out-colony from Epidaurus in Argolis to the north, it probably exists due to its protected waters. There are scant traces of two harbors in the area. Other Greek writings say it was a center of learning and writing. There were temples to Aphrodite, Asclepius, Zeus Soter, and Athena. Take along an outstanding imagination to see any of that. What remains today are a few wall foundations.
You can visit the site for free. That’s the first indication there is little to nothing to see. You need to drive almost to Ad Ioannis, before taking a sharp right. Look for the small brown with yellow lettering archeological site sign marking the turn. This one says the Ancient Acropolis of Xazax. From the fork, it is approximately three minutes drive. As soon as the road reaches the coast and jogs left, start looking for the small brown archeological sign. The too-small sign is on the left and parallel to the street, making it easy to miss. (Can you guess one of my Greek pet-peeves?) At least this site has one…
Archeologikos Choros of Zarax
Another “free” site, the remains of this town, are another 20-minutes drive past Epidaurus Limera. There is a little history we know. It appears it was already a prosperous port town in ancient Laconia at the time the Argives take control. Cleonymus of Sparta annihilates the city circa 300 B.C. What few foundations still stand are on the hill over the modern harbor of Limin Leraka. The views are great. It is best to ask for directions as the few signs are confusing.
Another 30 minutes drive past Limin Leraka, heading north in the hilltop town of Riechia. This small town is home to a charming museum featuring farm tools, costumes, handicrafts, photographs, and old publications. Admission is free, but you must make a reservation prior. A scenic drive west from Riechia will bring you to Molaoi in approximately 30 minutes.
Molaoi
The area stretches north and west of Monemvasia. The town of Molaoi is approximately 30 minutes drive from Monemvasia.
- The Larnaka Gorge
This lush gorge begins near the main square. There are various walks from one to six hours. The long hikes involve climbing and are only for professionals. Starting in the morning or late afternoon usually finds cooler temperatures.
Asopos
The region is almost due west of Monemvasia. The drive to Asopos town is approximately 30 minutes.
Ancient Asopos
The ancient city, 10 minutes drive south of the modern town by the same name, has a blurry history. Today the village of Plyta is near the area.
Asopos is thriving long before the arrival of the Dorians circs 950 B.C. It sinks into the sea circa 365 B.C. during a terrible earthquake. Walk along the cement pier in Plyta and look in the water to your left. Also, the flat area along the beach has some structures and mosaics. You can snorkel the site, but they do not allow diving. Many of the finds are in the Neapolis Laconia Archaeological Museum.
Voies
Neapoli Voion
Approximately an hour’s drive south of Monemvasia is this seaside village that also goes by the name Vatika.
The modern-day town sits upon the 10th-century B.C., city of Boeae. There are minimal remains of this city that survives until an earthquake levels it circa 375 A.D. The current street plan dates from 1837 when the town gets its new name Neapoli.
One of Greece’s most impressive cave hides in the hills above Neapoli. You can take a tour along the metal walkway through the two main chambers. Due to mineral deposits, there are seven different colors in the formations. The scenic drive there is worth the trip.
This small museum has artifacts from most of the region’s sites, including the Sanctuary of Apollo and Asopos.
Pavlopetri
Approximately 20 minutes drive west of Neapoli is the village of Pouda. Just off the beach, in about 12 feet of water, are the remains of a Bronze Age village. Today, the remains of this 5000-year-old city are on the UNESCO World Monuments Watch. With a snorkel mask, you can see traces of building foundations and streets.
Elafonisos Island
Less than 10 minutes by ferry from Pouda is this island. Maybe it was part of the mainland before the earthquake.
Elafonisos is an island more popular with locals than tourists, at least the times I have been there. You can do it in a day, but you may miss the second best part of the island. Off-season, the last ferry back to the mainland, is usually before 3:00 PM. The sunsets from the west coast and southern tip take place later. Consider spending the night and relaxing.
So if the evenings are the number two attraction, what is number one? Simos Beach! But you just said you don’t like beaches. No, I said I usually do not go to beaches in Greece. However, this is one I do like. It has many things to offer. There are areas with sunbed rentals, beach bars, cafes, and areas you can getaway. The best part is sandy areas I can walk on without looking like I am going barefoot over legos. At the south end, there is a rocky peninsula (a mini Monemvasia) that creates bays framing the beach.
The island of Kythera (Cythera), although due south of the Laconia area, is part of the Ionian Islands. Ferries run from Neopoli and Pireaus.
Monemvasia Summary
Of course, you come to Monemvasia to see its impressive Kastro (castle). But there are so many other things to do, see and taste, make sure you leave enough time.
And explore the rest of the Peloponesse while you are here.
It is just one of Greece’s great secrets.