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Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
MILOS TODAY.
SHOULD SEE.
Milos is in the Cyclades group in the southwesternmost corner of these islands.
The island is a popular tourist destination during the summer. It is easy to reach with a direct ferry service from Piraeus (Athens) and Santorini. In addition, there is a commercial airport.
Perhaps the island’s main claim to fame is two objects you cannot see on Milos. Well, for that matter, in Greece. They are now “from Milos.”
Ancient Milos.
Milos was a quarry long before it was a place to live.
The mining of Obsidian, a volcanic rock with a glass-like structure, may have been going on around 13,000 B.C.) The stone is important as when it breaks; it forms razor-thin and extremely sharp edges. People of the Rock Age would use these for tools and weapons.
Excavations around the Mediterranian discover tools with Milos Obsidian.
There are indications of Minoan settlements on the island, which is not surprising due to its proximity to Santorini.
When the Bronze Age begins, obsidian declines in importance. This change happens because bronze makes sturdier weapons and tools.
The Bronze Age.
The first settlers were probably fishermen. Ruins of the town of Phylakopi point to a settlement starting circa 2300 B.C.
By the middle of the Bronze Age (circa 2000 B.C.) Phylakopi seems to flourish. Excavations uncover blocks of houses along straight streets and a Minoan wall.
Archeologists uncover several styles of Minoan pottery. They range from the black and red glaze to the more vivid Melian bird jugs. There are also wall frescos.
A newer section dating from 1500-1100 B.C. indicates the building of a Mycenean settlement on top of the Minoan. Did the 1646 B.C. eruption of nearby Santorini have anything to do with this?
Mycenaean clues include pottery, a megaron, a sanctuary with Mycenaean figurines, and new walls.
Unfortunately, several parts are washing away due to sea erosion.
Dorian Milos.
Milos flourishes under the Dorians, minting their currency. However, they are using their own weight standard.
By the 6th century B.C., the Melians were writing. However, they are using their own variant of the ancient Greek script.
The Dorians of Milos seem to have a few control issues.
The Peloponnesian War.
Milos is an island. What does it have to do with the Peloponesse?
The Peloponnesian War between Athens and Sparta lasts from 431-404 B.C. The Melians are Doric. The Spartans are Doric. The Dorics usually stick together. Unfortunately, Milos, outside of a small financial donation, remains neutral.
They may regret turning their back on the Spartans as the Athenians sack the island in 426 B.C. Fortunately, they are not able to take the town. Athens tries to demand tribute, but the Melians refuse.
The Athenians return circa 416 B.C. with larger forces. They demand Milos ally with them against Sparta, or they will destroy the island. You can probably guess Milos’s response.
The Athenians lay siege to the city and eventually captured it. They execute the adult men and sell the women and children into slavery.
With the Melians gone, Athens settles 500 of their colonists on Milos.
Unfortunately for Athens, by 405 B.C., they are losing the war. The Spartans under general Lysander boots the Athenian settlers from Melos The return the Melian survivors of the siege. The Island then receives a military governor. Milos becomes like other islands and loses its cultural distinctiveness.
The Hellenistic period.
Much of Greece and the islands have 60 years of peace until a new threat comes to town. In 338 B.C., Philip II of Macedon defeats the Greek City-States at the Battle of Chaeronea.
Two years later, his son Alexander the Great will take control of Greece and push his empire eastward. 13 years later, with Alexander’s “mysterious” death, all of Greece is up for grabs. The empire breaks into four different mini-empires. But, unfortunately, they spend so much time fighting each other and do not pay close enough attention to the west.
They also do not pay attention to most of the Greek Islands. Milos will prosper. War does not come to the islands. The Antigonids allow Milos to trade its minerals. With a thriving community, the arts cannot be too far behind. Local artists turn out many of the island’s most famous pieces. These include the marble statues of Poseidon, the Equestrian General, and the Venus of Milos. The first two are now in the same room of the National Archaeological Museum, Athens.
The Romans Are Coming.
After defeating Carthage circa 202 B.C., the Romans look eastward.
Macedon falls in 197 B.C., and Milos comes under Roman influence. This period also turns out to be peaceful as the islands are not crucial to Rome.
The island continues to thrive. During this time, they build a marble amphitheater and relocate the city center to higher ground in Tramythia.
Less Ancient Milos.
Christianity spreads quickly in Milos due to its trading with many ports throughout the Mediterranian.
Then circa 60 A.D., Nero begins public displays of persecution against the Christians. Unfortunately, when Marcus Aurelius comes to power circa 161, he spreads it throughout the Roman Empire.
Christians on Milos begin digging catacombs in a hillside south of town. It is not easy with volcanic rock.
They are not only a place to bury the dead but to hide and hold their religious ceremonies. Outside of the catacombs in Rome, some say these were some of the largest, possibly holding up to 8000 Christians. Today, you can visit one of the three chambers.
Christian persecution will go on for several hundred years, waning with some emperors and igniting with others. Not until the “Edict of Milan” in 313 will an emperor begin the acceptance of Christianity. It will take another ten years before Christianity becomes the Roman Empire’s official religion.
In 330 A.D., Constantine divides the Roman Empire into two. Roman will continue to rule the western empire while Constantinople will be the new seat in the east. Milos and the rest of Greece go with the eastern portion. Unfortunately, the Catholic church also splits at this time due to disagreements within its ranks. As a result, the Eastern Empire will become Greek Christian (Orthodox) while the west will remain Roman Catholic.
This move works out fine for Milos and the rest of Greece for the first few hundred years.
The Beginning of the…
By 395 A.D., the Western Roman Empire is starting to crumble. Invaders from the north, including the Goths, begin breaking the empire apart.
Finally, circa 476, the barbarian king Odoacer from Germany defeats the last western emperor. At first, this does not severely affect the eastern (Byzantine) empire. However, if these other invaders can take down the empire of the west, why not the eastern?
While the Christians Are Fighting.
During the 9th Century A.D., the Arabs take advantage of the weak state of Christian Europe. They build large navies and take control of the Mediterranean Sea. Christians will eventually call these raiders the Saracen. They beat down the European navies, and the land forces could not reach them. They raid and plunder all of the Mediterranian.
Many cities along the coast move inland or, better yet higher, above the coast as protection. There is no written history as to how Milos does with its town on the hill. Writings from circa 1200 mention it as a critical Byzantine harbor, so it appears to fight.
By the 10th century, Christian fleets are finally back to fighting strength. However, it will take another 100 years before the Christians control the Mediterranean through naval technology and expertise.
The Anything but Holy Crusades.
Circa 1095, Pope Urban II proposes: ‘Whoever helps liberate Jerusalem for him and God, will receive penance for all of their sins.’ This decree justifies killing the Muslims in the eyes of the Christians. It brings the knights under a uniform cause, the Pope’s army. Also, it averts German King Henry IV questioning the Pope’s power during the Investiture Controversy. To the Greek Orthodox, he presents it as an olive branch to heal the schism between the two churches. Sure it does.
By the Fourth Crusade circa 1202, they are still using the return of Jerusalem as an excuse. First, they “accidentally” sack the capital of the Greek Orthodox Byzantine Empire. It cannot defend itself as the last three crusades have depleted its armies. Instead of penance, the knights will divide the former Byzantine Empire. This move divides its power making the Vatican that much more powerful.
The Greek islands will become pawns in the real estate chess game. Luckily, Milos, unlike some islands, does not have a new overlord every other Tuesday.
The Venetian Marco Sanudo will take control. His dynasty will retain control of Milos until 1361. However, the Miloans do not accept this, and in 1268, the Miloans seize the Kastro. They are hoping the Byzantine fleet will come to their aid. Unfortunately, the Byzantines do not arrive, and many of the island’s people die as the Venetians take back control.
In 1383, Francesco I Crispo marries Fiorenza Sanudo, the Dutchess of Naxos. The Crispo Dynasty will control Naxos, and therefore Milos, until 1566.
The Ottomans.
Circa 1516, Hayreddin Barbarossa and his brother begin a career as pirates. They become Sultans, and eventually, Hayreddin becomes admiral of Suliman the Magnificent’s navy. His navy grows to more than 150 ships, and he is the ‘Terror of the Mediterranian.’ Circa 1537, he arrives in the harbor of Milos and takes the island in a short time.
The years of the Turkish occupation are not bad for Milos. (AAs occupations go.) As long as they pay their taxes, they pretty much rule themselves. Milos has rich soil, and agriculture is big. Moreover, they continue their ties with the sea in fishing and trading. Now that Barbarossa can’t attack, the only big problem they have is the return of the Arab Saracen pirates.
Circa 1675, Milos still cannot accept someone having control over them. So they name pirate George Kapsis, a man with anti-Turkish feelings, King of Milos. Three years later, the Turks hang Kapsis, and the kingdom is over.
The Melians will support the Russians circa 1771 when they take control of the island. And again, three years later, the Ottomans are back in control.
The Greek War of Independence.
Is it surprising that Milos is one of the first islands to rise during the 1821 revolution? Milos takes part in the first naval battle within Milos’ Adamantas Bay. This move is impressive as Milos has no navy. First, a fleet of ships from Spetses cuts off the Ottoman fleet from escaping the bay. Then the locals do everything they can to disrupt the Ottomans from moving into a defensive position.
For the rest of the war, Milos will provide shelter for refugees from all over Greece.
The murder of Melian Petros Mikelis starts a chain of events leading to the 1827 naval Battle of Navarino. The battle will end when British, French, and Russian warships destroy the Turkish-Egyptian fleet.
A year later, the Egyptian army withdraws, and the Ottoman forces in the Peloponnese surrender. Greek forces then proceeded to retake central Greece. Finally, Russia invades the Ottoman Empire to the north, forcing them to accept Greek autonomy. The 1830 London Protocol begins actions to establish and define the new state of Greece.
However, the protocol does not include all the Greek Islands. So, lucky for Milos, all of the Cyclades become part of the new Greek state.
The Balkan Wars.
However, Northern Greece does not become part of the new Greek state. The Ottomans are not giving up.
By late 1912, the kingdoms of Montenegro, Serbia, Bulgaria, and Greece rise against the Ottomans. The first Balkan War lasts about seven months.
The Ottomans are not expecting this and are off-guard. As a result, they lose more than 80% of their European territories and close to 70% of their population.
By the end, there is a new state, independent Albania.
Unhappy with its share of the spoils, Bulgaria attacks Serbia and Greece a month later, starting the Second Balkan War. Romania, also having land disputes with Bulgaria, jumps in. Within a month, Bulgaria is asking for an Armistice. As an outcome, they lose even more land.
Milos will send many of its young men to fight. But unfortunately, 97 will not come home alive.
Everyone lives happily ever after or until a year later when WWI begins.
World War I.
During the First World War, the bay at Milos will shelter the English-French fleet. Adamantas will become a naval base controlling the East Mediterranean against German submarines. Luckily, the island does not see any direct action.
World War II.
It is not that lucky in the Second World War. The Germans occupy the island on May 6th, 1941. The Germans install anti-aircraft systems with radars and heavy guns. They dig tunnels around Adamantas for the storing of food and ammunition.
In 1943, RAF Beaufighters torpedo and sink a German supply ship in the harbor at Adamantas. Some of her cargo washes up on the other side of the bay. Melians, starving and without any supplies, scavenge the cargo. German patrol will arrest 25 locals. They accuse 14 of them of looting German army property, killing them by a firing squad.
Finally, the Allies liberate Milos by May of 1944. After the war, many young people will leave Milos to seek better jobs in Athens. Many of those remaining will work in the mining of minerals.
Tourism will slowly begin to emerge in the Greek Islands in the 1960s. Then in 1967, a military Junta overthrows the Greek government, beginning seven years of dictatorship. Tourism disappears. Some backpackers will visit in the late 1970s, but Milos, for the most part, remains off the tourist radar.
Through the 1980s-90s, Milos remains in the shadows. Some consider it an industrial island with only mining. There are few hotels on the island, unlike other Cycladic islands. Nevertheless, Milos attracts Greeks from the mainland and the occasional celebrity on a yacht.
When the economy plummets circa 2008, Milos is not relying on tourism to return and bail them out.
Milos Today.
Mining is still a large employer of the island’s residents and is the only true year-round industry.
The service industry, including tourism, now makes up more than 50% of the economy.
The island remains off the mass-tourism radar. People come for the almost 70 beaches, some historical sightseeing, and the Greek vibe.
There are a few late-night venues, but nothing like Mykonos or Santorini.
The island does not have over-the-top resorts. The hotel rooms with pools and $1000 a night price tags don’t exist on Milos, at least not yet. Most hotels don’t even number 30 rooms.
Tourists number between 80,000-90,000 a year, predominantly from April to October. Many are still Greeks. Some islands feel like they have that many a day.
The island is carrying out a major beautification project for the mines. As a result, green hills are growing where there used to be waste products from the mines.
What is in Milos for me?
See & Hear.
The natural beauty of the island, for one. The different minerals from its volcanic past create red and black beaches. Other places that look like they are from outer space or at least a sci-fi movie.
Taste & Smell.
The great thing about islands that attract many Greeks is that the restaurants cannot get away with “touristy” Greek food. Look for the tavernas with the locals, and you cannot go wrong. Walk around the town in the morning when the smell of fresh bread and Greek coffee mix in the breeze.
Feel.
Places in Greece where Greeks outnumber the non-Greeks just feel different. More Greek, if you will. Here, you have a better chance of experiencing Greek hospitality, some of the best in the world.
Venture off the main street and immerse yourself in Greece.
There may be better ways to spend a leisurely afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Milos.
Adamas (Adamantas).
Adamas is the main port where the ferries arrive. The bay looks somewhat similar to Santorini’s but is not from the middle of the island collapsing. Instead, two large volcanos and several smaller ones create the natural bay.
Like any ferry port, you will find cafés, tavernas, shops, markets, and lower-cost hotels. If you are looking for nightlife, what exists will be in this area. You will find a few clubs and tavernas with local music.
Church of Agios Haralambos.
The church overlooks Adamas from its hilltop location. It is the largest church in this part of the island. There are some excellent sunset vistas from this area.
Ecclesiastical Museum of Milos – Church of the Holy Trinity.
The museum is inside the Church, hence the long name. It is a 5-minute walk from the ferry pier. Inside, the relics date back to the 14th century showing the island’s history through the church’s eyes.
Nautical Museum of Milos.
This small museum is a one-minute walk from the Ecclesiastical museum to Milos’ naval history. Learn more about the island’s connection to the sea back to pre-historic times. The museum is usually open from mid-morning to early afternoon only.
Milos Mining Museum.
This small but interesting museum to the island’s mineral past is a ten-minute walk south of the ferry pier. Unfortunately, the signage is all in Greek. However, there are audio guides in English and other languages.
Plaka.
At the top of the hill behind Adamas is the capital of Milos.
The Plaka is almost all pedestrian streets, meaning you will park and walk to it. You will find bustling squares, incredible architecture, museums, souvenir shops, tavernas, and guesthouses through the narrow white-washed streets.
Venetian Castle of Milos.
Two hundred steps above the Kastro, on the second-highest peak on Milos, is the only remains of the Venetians. Dating from the 13th century, it will also serve the Ottomans and nazi. The church on the hill and the castle remains are popular for sunsets.
Church of Panagia Korfiatissa.
Commanding a view over the bay, this is the cathedral of Milos. Dating from 1820, they use parts of the Plaka’s old churches to build this one. The church has numerous icons, one dating to the 15th century. Its terrace is popular for sunsets.
Folk and Historical Museum of Milos.
Next door to the church is this small museum in a 200-year-old house. The house museum displays the items you find in daily life. For example, the kitchen utensils are in the kitchen, while beds and other personal items are in the bedroom.
Archaeological Museum of Milos.
In the center of the Kastro, this museum has Milos relics dating to the prehistoric age. Items from Pylakopi, Obsidian tools, sculptures, and other things make up the collection.
Triovasalos.
This suburb of Plaka to the east has many accommodations with parking on-site or nearby. However, it has only a few restaurants and markets in comparison to Plaka or Adamas. Nevertheless, if you’re O.K. not being within walking distance of sites, it’s a good location.
Saint Spiridon Orthodox church.
This Greek Orthodox church is possibly the only photo stop in Triovasalos. Its clock tower is a favorite subject of photographers.
Tripiti (Trypiti.)
Just below Plaka to the south, it is confusing where one area ends and the other begins. However, I imagine they will all be together by my next visit.
Catacombs of Milos.
Just below the Plaka, in the area of ancient Melos, are the Christian catacombs dating from the first century A.D. These caverns are early churches where Christians would meet, pray, and bury their dead. Unfortunately, of the three currently known chambers, only one is open for viewing.
Ancient Theater of Melos.
This Roman theater is sitting on the site of a previous Greek theater from the Hellenistic period. The Romans rebuild it with marble. In the summer, performances still take place. Parking is for the theater and catacombs.
The Venus de Milo.
That statue without arms in the Louvre museum is an imposter. She is a Greek statue from the Hellenistic period (323 BC – until the emergence of the Roman Empire.) This means she could not be Venus, a Roman goddess who didn’t exist until later.
Many believe she is Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of beauty. However, she may be Amphitrite, a Greek goddess, and wife of Poseidon, who is popular on Milos and Poros.
The statue did have arms, which were missing by 1820 when they find her in the mud. Often a statue holds something in its hand, indicating its identity—for instance, Poseidon with a trident. They find a hand holding an apple, a sign of Aphrodite in the same area. Without the arm, it is impossible to say if it is from this statue.
The French ambassador to Greece acquires the statue and presents it to King Louis XVIII. He, in turn, donates her to the Louvre.
Other statues from Milos include the Asclepius of Milo. This head from an enormous statue of the Greek god of medicine is in the British Museum.
The marble statue of Poseidon and the Equestrian General are both in the National Archaeological Museum, Athens.
These statues are of Parian marble (from Poros and the best in Greece) and from the Hellenistic period.
In storefronts in Plaka, you can find smaller versions with unique color schemes.
On the walk to the ancient theater, you will see the spot where they rediscover the statue. It is above the ancient Melos stadium, which is still waiting for excavation.
Klima.
What once was a charming fishing village is today an Instagram destination. Unfortunately, there is no beach or nightlife outside a few tavernas. But, it is on the coast, below Tripiti.
Boathouses (syrmata).
At one time, these colorful tiny fisherman houses were also their office. The boats and fishing gear would be in the lower “garage” while the home was upstairs. A few are still private residences, but many are now shops and guesthouses. Expect waves of photographers in the daytime.
Mandrakia.
Just north of Triovasalos on the coast is this authentic fishing village that is still that. There are no shops and only one (good) restaurant here. As a result, there is usually less of a crowd for dinner—just a tiny cove with boathouses around it. I would call it a Kodak moment, but it is Instagramable.
Pollonia.
This small fishing village is becoming a touristy area at the northeast end of Milos. Here, you can find small hotels and guesthouses.
There are several eateries, always look for the locals eating, and shops for tourists. In the summer, some tavernas have nighttime entertainment near the ferry terminal. The ferry to nearby Kimolos Island, which you can see, departs from the southern end of town. The trip takes approximately 30-minutes.
I can always find a locals restaurant with fresh seafood here.
Kimolos Island.
Outside of the small archeological museum in Psetopoleio, the island’s only town, there is not much else to do. Eating or going to the beach are the main activities. Except for two large size beaches on the south shore, I find most of the beaches rocky. Also, they have little to no services or facilities.
Archaeological Site of Phylakopi.
Five minutes drive west of Pollonia is this important site from the prehistoric Aegean Period (3300-1100 B.C.) Luckily, there is good signage, and you can identify parts of the wall, parts of the sanctuary, and the megaron. Unfortunately, the sea is claiming more bits of the settlement yearly.
Beaches.
Although the island has over 70 beaches, few are great for sunning. However, several are worth visiting just for the photo. Millions of years of volcanic activity leave a unique coastline and cliffside. Aquashoes or an old pair of sneakers is an excellent idea as almost all beaches have some pebbles or rocks.
Sarakiniko Beach.
The most popular beach on Milos to photograph isn’t a beach. There is a small patch of sand. But people come to photograph and jump from the white moon-like volcanic rock into the turquoise water. There are no facilities or permanent services. Occasionally a snack truck is in the parking lot. Treat this as a photo, jumping in the water stop.
Kleftiko Beach.
Another photographic stop due to millions of years of erosion. The best way to reach this “beach” is by boat. I have never seen any sand, but the natural caves and rare geological formations make up for it. Needless to say, no services or facilities on land.
Cave of Sykia.
This site is one of the few sea caves they do not try to pass off as a beach. A boat is the only way to reach the cave. Luckily, it is usually a stop on the boat trip to Kleftiko. What makes it most interesting is that the cave dome is missing. This detail creates a stone bowl your small boat can enter.
Firiplaka Beach.
Sitting on the south shore, you can drive to this beach, and there is sand. Still, American feet will probably appreciate aqua shoes. There are chairs and umbrellas for rent, food and drink, and facilities.
Panagia tou Kipou Church.
If you drive as far as Firiplaka, check out this church 15-minutes west. Dating from the 5th century A.D., it is one of the oldest Byzantine churches on the island. Take in the beautiful sea views as well. If you are in the area around sunset, there are great vistas in this area.
Tsigrado Beach.
This Instagram Beach is not even a 5-minute drive from the parking area at Firiplaka. I call it an Instagram beach because photos are the main reason to visit. Also, the access down two questionable wooden ladders and pulling yourself along a rope is for thrill-seekers. The beach is tiny, and rocks fall onto it from above without notice. I suggest a Kodak moment from a boat.
Plathiena Beach.
This beach is perhaps the closest “sand” beach to Plaka. There are a few chairs and umbrellas for rent and a snack bar within walking distance. If you arrive early enough, there is parking next to the beach. However, its northeast location is one of the last beaches to get direct sunlight in the morning.
Papafragas Cave Beach.
On the road to Pollonia is another “beach” for photos and swimming, but very little sand. A natural archway connects this narrow channel to the sea.
There are plenty more beaches and if you are overnighting, ask your innkeeper for recommendations.
Milos Summary.
Milos has been a favorite island of mine for some time. However, in the last few years, Instagramers are descending en masse. Like many locals, I fear it may become another Santorini if the government is not careful.
There is something for the history buff with a pre-historic site and Roman, Christian, and Byzantine remains. The island’s natural beauty from its mineral deposits and erosion is worth seeing, even by the non-swimmer. The local food and people are worth the trip alone. The lack of the masses (for now) is also a bonus to me.
Before time runs out, see Milos while you can still see it.