BACK TO GREECE
Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD-SEE LESVOS.
OUTSIDE OF MYTILINI.
RELIGIOUS SITES.
Lesvos, Lesbos or Mytilini, is Greece’s third-largest island after Crete and Evia.
It covers over 600 square miles with a coastline stretching more than 200 miles. Fortunately, the population is just over 90,000 locals, and it is not a major tourist destination. That means you can still find much of its traditional vibe.
The island is part of the Northern Aegean islands. Lesvos has the west coast of Turkey, in some places only six miles, off its north, and eastern side.
Dikili Turkey, the gateway to Bergama (Ancient Pergamon), is only 18 miles or a two-hour ferry ride from Mytilene.
The island’s two most popular products are Ouzo and Olive Oil.
Ancient History
In prehistoric times, the island was a lush forest of vegetation. It went by the name Lassia or Lazpa due to its lush landscape.
Others believe the name is from the mythical hero Lesvos who was born here or came here to marry Mythimna. Homer mentions it in his Illiad and Odyssey. Here Odysseus wrestles with Philomeleides, the king of Lesbos.
The island is where the head and lyre of Orpheus wash ashore after the Furies rip him to pieces. The locals bury him in a shrine, and the local birds begin singing like his lyre. Remember, Greeks have been drinking wine for more than 4000 years.
A little more scientifically, the history of Lesvos begins circa 1507 B.C. The Pelasgians from the mainland establish Thermi on the coast, famous for its hot springs. They produce dark grey amphorae (pottery for holding liquids) and export olives, olive oil, and wine. Remains of these pots show up all over the Mediterranian.
Later, conquerors include the Achaeans, circa 1393 B.C., and the Aeolians two hundred years later.
Pittacus of Mytilene, one of the seven sages of Greece, governs around 600 B.C. He is successful in reducing some of the power of the nobility. During this time, the island is becoming a center of artistic and philosophical acclaim. It is also becoming a mighty maritime power.
Real Estate Roulette
In the 6th century B.C., the Persians seize Lesvos. They will rule for almost 100 years.
Circa 479 B.C., the Athenians take control and make it a member of the Delian League.
Alexander the Great visits circa 334 B.C., and the island and mainland become part of his Macedonian Empire. During the land grab by his generals after his “mysterious” death, Ptolemies seizes most of the Eastern Aegean.
The Roman Empire arrives circa 88 B.C., on their real estate conquest. They conquer and move on.
Less Ancient.
The Romans rule over Lesvos, all of Greece, and most of Turkey for the next 400+ years. When Constantine moves his capital to Byzantium and renames it Constantinople, a tremor goes through the empire. Lesvos remains a healthy Roman colony due to its maritime prowess.
The Roman Empire continues to slowly crumble until 1204, when Spanish forces, under the disguise of Crusaders, sack Constantinople.
Saracen and Latins successively occupy and misrule the area, including Lesvos, for several decades.
Byzantium, which rises from the ashes of Constantinople, regains control of the island in 1261. They will retain power for almost 100 years.
By the mid-1400s, Venice, Genoa, and several other Italian city-states are on a real estate spree through the Eastern Mediterranian. In 1354, Genoa added Lesvos to its portfolio. The Genovese will leave almost 100 years’ worth of imprint on the island.
By 1460, there are more conquerors The Ottomans. They build three castles and, along with their navel force, hold on to the island for the next 450 years. The Turks would conquer, then move on, leaving a small band in charge. Because of this, many parts of Greek life went on. The monasteries and churches became intellectual centers. Some also became secret schools for revolutionaries.
In 1824, the islanders rose against their oppressors. The short-lived revolution was a disaster for the Greeks, leaving many dead.
Becoming Greece
The Greek War of Independence begins in 1821, and by 1832, there is the Kingdom of Greece. Unfortunately, it only consists of the Peloponesse and southern mainland Greece. Lesvos will remain under Ottoman control until 1912 when the island gets freedom during the Balkan Wars.
It will take another eleven years of paperwork before the island officially joined the Kingdom of Greece in 1923.
The new Greek freedom does not last long. By June 1941, the Germans seize the island during World War II. They will remain until September of 1944.
The Island Today
The island is rocky and bare on the west side due to volcanic activity. The eastern side is hilly and fertile.
Unfortunately, physical remains are few considering the widespread development of the island in ancient times.
What is in Lesvos for Me?
See & Hear.
Enjoy the fragrant forests, full of musical birds.
Sit on one of the beautiful beaches where you can listen to the waves.
Immerse yourself in one of the intriguing museums. Two of the art museums rival those in Athens.
Another option is to sit at a cafe overlooking the town streets, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Stroll the pedestrian walkways of one of the old villages and lose yourself in the side streets. Smell the gyros meat slowly roasting on a spit. Pass a bakery with the scent of fresh bread coming out the door.
Feel.
Sip a glass of wine and feel the energy that has been inspiring artists, writers, and poets for centuries.
Sit and contemplate your day finding a Roman aqueduct, exploring a petrified forest, or lying on the beach.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Lesvos
Ancient
Archaeological Site of Thermi
The remains of the island’s first settlement lie on the east coast 20 minutes drive north of Mytilene. The settlement dates from the Early Bronze Age (3200-2400 B.C.) The majority of the ruins dating from the Late Bronze Age (2000 – 1300 BC). Hallelujah, this site has a sign. Look for the small brown sign with the yellow arrow just before the village of Pergi Thermis. Drive to the coast, then turn north (left) and follow the shoreline. The site will be in front of you.
Acropolis of Eressos
The Aeolians founded Ancient Eressos on the southwest coast of the island circa 1500 B.C. The city would extend down the hill to the port during the Hellenistic period. Today, there is nothing left of this settlement except the rock. If you are willing to do the climb from near the harbor at the east end, the views are lovely. Of historical interest is the ancient artificial mole just under the water’s surface in the area of the new jetty.
Eresos Archaeological Collection (Website in Greek)
This small but interesting museum is in an old school building, a few blocks from the waterfront. The collection is in four sections: private life, public life, religion-worship, and burial customs. There is mumbling of it moving to the more significant museum in Mytilene. As of spring 2019, the museum was still in Skala Eresos.
Aeolic Sanctuary of Klopedi
The remains of two temples dating from the 6th century B.C. The sanctuary area they reside in dates to the 8th century B.C. The structures are the only Aeolian building to have been uncovered in Greece. The sanctuary was for the cult of Apollo Napaeos.
Archaeological Museum of Mytilene (Website in Greek)
The museum is in two buildings. The older Paleo section is a former mansion. The New Building, dating from the 1990s, is on the same site where the previous museum, circa 1935, stood. In the old section, you can see many pieces of the Aeolic Temple.
Sanctuary of Messon (Mesa)
The ruins date from the late 4th-century B.C., and many people mistakenly call it Aphrodite’s Temple. Clues indicate it probably was a temple the cults of Zeus, Dionysus, and Hera were sharing. The word ‘Mesa’ in Ancient Greek means “middle’ or ‘neutral.’ The temple’s location was mid-way from the four most important cities on the island, Antissa, Eresos, Methymna, and Mytilene.
Ancient Mithimna
Dating from the end of the Bronze Age, 4th-century B.C., Ancient Mithimna (Molyvos) has a fantastic view. The views and the top of the hill position made it very easy to defend. Following the death of Alexander, Ptolemy has a fortress built using parts of the original walls of the city.
Castle of Molyvos (Mithymna)
The Byzantines (circa 1300 A.D.) need a fortification to defend the island along its northwest coast. Using what remains of Ptolomy’s fortress over the town of Mithimna, they build a stronger defense. The castle you see today is predominantly Byzantine. Much of the building material dates from the original structure.
Ancient Theatre of Mytilene
The original theater, built into the hillside, is a mid-Hellenistic structure, dating circa 3rd-century B.C. Later the Romans did renovations for possible gladiator events. There is not much to see as little excavation has taken place. It makes for a hearty walk uphill. There is a gravel lot across from Ekklisia Agia Kiriaki church in west Mytilene. There are two gravel paths to the left as you enter the parking area. Walk up the one on the right.
Ancient Makara
The name comes from Makareas, one of the first settlers of ancient Lesbos. The area supposedly has several examples of the “Lesbian style” of construction. Along the southwest coast near Paralia Makara beach, many walls and structures look ancient. But without signs, I do not know if they are.
Kaloktistos Wall, Apothikas
North of Makara is a section of ancient retaining wall, over 160 feet long and approximately 16 feet high. I have driven around the Apothikas area, and there are no apparent signs to direct you. A pet peeve of mine all over Greece. I saw many walls that may be ancient or from last season. The rocks in every wall are old.
Less Ancient
Roman Aqueduct of Moria
Northwest of Mytilene is the town of Moria. Just south of the city are the remains of a late 2nd-century Roman aqueduct. It was probably a public project from Hadrian, the Roman emperor. It carried water from the springs on Olympos Mountain to the ancient town of Mytilene, a distance of 16 miles.
Castle of Mytilene
The castle of Mytilene is one of the biggest castles in the Mediterranean. Sitting on a hill with views of the harbor, it covers approximately 60 acres. The construction was by the Gattilusi, a powerful Genoese family circa 1360. The Ottomans would add on and remodel parts during their 450-year reign. Today, only three sections survive from the Byzantine period and include one small gate, the eastern wall, and the tank.
Kremasti bridge
This medieval stone bridge, dating from sometime in the 1500s, was a significant link between the east side of the island and the west. The bridge reaches a height of 28 feet at the top of its single arch.
Castle of Sigri
The castle of Sigri would fill a weak spot in the island’s defense. They build it almost 400 years after the other principal forts. The fort, dating from 1757, was to defend the westernmost tip of Lesvos. Its main target was pirates attacking the ships moving along the trade route.
Tower of Tsoukaladelli in Thermi
The tower is a stone building with a square plan covering four floors. It is one of the island’s oldest residences still standing. The tower-like shape with a protruding upper level and the covered balcony were similar to other Byzantine structures. At one time, there were over 100 similar homes. Today, there is only a handful, each in various conditions of repair. The square shape and higher living quarters were part of the home’s defense. This structure dates from the 1700s and is in the town of Loutropoli Thermi. Today the Ministry of Culture owns the tower. In 2009 they undertook an extensive refurbishment of the tower.
Vareltzidena Mansion of Petra
The Vareltzidena Mansion, circa 1750, was the home of a wealthy Ottoman wine merchant. The current name comes from the last landlady to live in the house, who passed away in 1940. The residence is towards the center of Petra village and is open to the public. The ground floor has thick stone walls. The upper level is a mixture of traditional architecture with a touch of the Orient. Due to pirate raids at the time of its building, a safe room exists in the attic.
Yeni Mosque of Mytilene
The building sits in the center of what was the Ottoman market, during the Turkish occupation. The mosque is one of the newer sites in the area, dating from around 1825. Unfortunately, the building is in pressing need of restoration. The roof and floors are in various levels of decay, and you may not enter. From the street, you can see much of its former glamour.
Tsarsi (Carsi) Hamam
The Tsarsi (market) Hamam is part of the adjacent Yeni Mosque complex. It also dates from around 1825. Visitors to the city would stop here upon arrival for a Turkish bath. Similar to a Greek, then Roman bath, the person progresses to warmer and warmer spaces. Fortunately, the city did some much-needed repairs on the building. Unfortunately, they use the building for various city offices.
Valide Mosque
Dating from 1615, it is one of the oldest mosques on the island. The stone masonry building once sat on a stone-paved courtyard with fountains. When the Turks leave, the Greeks cover or remove the fountains and interior frescos. Much of the red stone minaret is still standing. The building and spire have conservation status. The restoration was to begin in 2018.
Should See in Mytilene
In addition to the Ancient Stadium, Archeological museum, and Ottoman neighborhood, this major city has other sites worth seeing.
Georgiadis Mansion
This impressive residence just north of the center of town required some severe T.L.C. last time I was there. There is mumbling of it becoming a cultural venue, but I cannot confirm any of these rumors.
Some of the island’s wealth came from soap and fish-processing. Sea captains also were prominent citizens.
The Rest of the Island
Klapados
There is not much left to this small village approximately 20 minutes south of Petra. Its claim to fame is the nearby Klapados Waterfall. It is one of the tallest waterfalls (49 feet) on the island. Best time to see it is in the spring after the rains.
On the grounds of the Plomari Ouzo Distillery, north of Plomari, you can learn about Ouzo. The ingredients and processes they use to make Ouzo. The distillery has been operating since 1894. They are open certain days, so please check ahead before visiting, especially in winter.
Closer to the beach in Plomari, this distillery has been making Ouzo for more than 150 years. Their museum includes many original pieces of equipment, including the original alembic dating from 1858. It was an essential piece during distillation. Both distilleries are making the real stuff. This quality of Ouzo is not something they were serving at a college party. They are less than three miles apart, stop and sample both.
The Museum of Industrial Olive Oil Production
Just south of Agia Paraskevi, in a former communal oil mill, is an exciting museum. The building and many of the machines are once again in their original state. You will learn about the principal phases in oil production, crushing, pressing, and separating the oil. You will also learn about the unique history of the communal mill before and after electricity came to the island. The grinding of grain to produce flour is also part of its history.
Kalamiaris Palm Forest
If you are driving north from Mitilini, this may be worth the detour. What began as twenty-four Canary Island Date Palms in the late 19th century, is now a small forest. There are approximately 150 palms now, which grew with little to no attention from people.
The Petrified Forest of Lesvos
In Lesvos’s rocky, barren west remains of forest are slowly coming to the surface as the lava rock erodes. The Petrification of the forest began with intense volcanic activity 20 million years ago. It hardly looks like a forest now. Remnants of trees, some still standing, dot the hillside. The feeling of the area is somewhat surreal and empty.
The Natural History Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest
This unusual geological museum is in the seaside village of Sigri, approximately 20 minutes drive from the forest site. It serves as a center for the study, management, education, and preservation of the petrified forest. There are two major exhibits, one to the trees itself. The other presents the creation of the Aegean in this area over the last 20 million years. I prefer seeing the museum before the forest, so you know what you are viewing.
Religious Sites In Lesbos
There are enough sacred sites on the island to keep you on a pilgrimage your entire visit. And many come here for that exact reason. Some of the more impressive sites include:
Saint Therapon
This church dome is hard to miss if you sail into Mytilini harbor. Dating from 1860, it may sit on top of the ruins of an ancient temple to Apollo. It is the largest church on the island.
Cathedral of Saint Athanasios
Less than a five-minute walk from Saint Therapon is this church from the 1500s. A few of the relics of Saint Theodore are here. He had a run-in with the Turks in 1795. Unfortunately for him, his relics seem to be all over Europe. Lesvos worships him for saving the island from a plague.
Glykfylousa Panagia
The church sits upon the rock (Petra in Greece) overlooking the village of Petra. (Petros = Peter.) The story goes that a visiting sea captain had an Icon of the Blessed Virgin. Upon visiting Petra, the icon went missing. At night, a light from the top of the rock leads him to the image. He takes it back to the ship and… After retrieving it several times, he builds a church upon the foundation. The present church dates from 1747 and is at the top of 114 (or 115) steps. Let’s agree that it’s many.
Church of the Panagia Vrefokratousa
The church in the town of Agiasos celebrates the Virgin Mary. The church contains a miracle-working icon of the Virgin. In the museum is a cross, made in part with wood from the True Cross. Islanders brought the wood from Calvary (Golgotha).
Moni Perivolis
The full name is the Church of Perivolis convent, and it is in the western part of the island. Dating from the Byzantine period, there is mention of the church as far back as 1590. The site still includes a courtyard, convent, and church. The must-see here is the incredible cycle of wall paintings, circa late sixteenth century, depicting the life of Christ. The church is one of twelve historic churches on Lesvos that are on the World Monuments Watch.
The Church of Taxiarches (Archangel Michael)
The church contains an icon to the saint made from mud and the blood of fallen monks. A lone surviving monk, after an attack by Saracen pirates, mixed his brothers’ blood with dirt.
Church of Saint Andrew of Crete (Ekklisía San Andres)
On a journey from Constantinople to his island of Crete, Andrew, the Archbishop of Crete, fell ill. Upon arrival at Eressos on the southwest coast of Lesvos, he died. The date is sometime between 710 – 740 A.D., depending on who you ask. They bury him in the Basilica of Andrew. He remains until the 1800s when he finally makes it back to Crete, minus a few relics. The small church and Cathedral to Michael are next to the basilica ruins. It is three blocks back from the seafront, near the archeological museum.
There are numerous more churches and monasteries on the island. While most churches allow women and people of all faiths, monasteries can be much more strict. A few, such as Leimonas Monastery, offer overnight accommodations to pilgrims. I recommend contacting the monastery before traveling if you want to visit.
Gay Lesvos
So many people have misconceptions about this island, and they have never been here.
No discussion of Lesvos, Lesbos would be complete without a quick 101 on Sappho.
We know that the island got its name, sometime pre-600 B.C., due to its lush landscape.
Around 600 B.C. the lyrical poet Sappho was born on the island of Lesvos. Her works, poems set to lyre music were numerous and well received. People compared her to Homer and called her the “Tenth Muse.”
Unfortunately, only bits of her work remain, and only two may be in their entirety. The larger one, “Ode to Aphrodite,” is a significant key to everything that follows. And no one knows for sure which door it unlocks.
Many believe it is a parody based on a scene in book five of Homer’s Iliad. The rest of the poem is definitely a nod to Homer.
Others believe it is Sappho revealing to the world her unrequited love of another girl. And that stems from one word out of the entire poem and its translation.
None of the other bits of Sappho’s work reveal anything of her personal life. In later Greek drama, they portray her as a man-hungry woman.
Centuries Later
Why is any of this important? Skip ahead 2300 years to circa 1870. English poets take it upon themselves to comment on some poems dealing with female homosexuality as being Lesbian. From the island of Lesvos, and insinuating that Sappho likes women. They begin applying the term Lesbian to all works involving women with other women. Soon there are renderings of Sappho with other women. If you see it on Facebook or in a painting, it must be true.
Ten years later, a medical journal uses the term Lesbian to refer to an attraction between two females. By the 1900s, gay female writers have proclaimed Sappho their patron saint. Calls to Sappho to ask about her feelings on this title have gone unanswered.
So How “Gay” is Lesvos?
Let me share some questions from over the years.
Is the island overflowing with gay females?
Do they allow men on the island?
Are the men of Lesvos gay too?
The simple answers are no, no, and no. However, Greece had (has) a very macho mentality, and the Orthodox church still influences much of the population. So there are no simple answers.
Is the island overflowing with gay females?
No. It will surprise me if the island’s population has 10% of gays, as Alfred Kinsey claims.
In the village of Skala Eressos, the home of several gay females, I don’t think the year-round population reaches 10%. It certainly changes in the summer and during festivals the gay community sponsors.
Do they allow men on the island?
You have been reading too many stories about Amazons or Wonder Woman. Of course, they allow men, even in Skala Eressos. It is humorous to see the macho Greek man, who does not grasp why all women do not desire him.
Are the men on the island gay?
Well, they are Lesbians. Of course, so is the cuisine, the wine, the… Of all the men from Lesvos I have met, they seem to love women too.
In short, it is the locals who make the island. People, gay or straight, need to understand that most Greek people are going to like you first.
You have to really screw up to get them not to like you. That is a general statement, but it certainly applies to most of the Greeks I have met in Greece.
Greeks are not into labeling people as readily as other cultures. Sexuality, politics, religion do not define you.
If you do not shove it in their face, most Greeks will not care. They do not like public displays by gays or straight people. Neither do I, so get a room.
Should I avoid Lesvos because it is a gay island?
First of all, what is a gay island? I have never known an island’s sexuality. Some islands attract more kids, more Greeks, more European charters, and some do attract the gay crowd.
The gay, predominantly male, party crowd go to Mykonos. But they are not the only people on Mykonos.
Females who identify as gay do come to Lesvos, predominantly in the warmer months. Yes, there are a few who give all the others a bad name. All groups have a few of those. But I feel the majority come for the community of like people, not to find a partner. That the island is fabulous is just whip cream on top.
So should you skip Lesvos? If people being different bothers you, yes, you should. In fact, you should never leave your house.
Get over the labels and be a little more Greek-like.
If you skip Lesvos, it is your nose you are cutting off.
Lesvos Summary
Hiding in the North Aegean, who knew there was so much to see. Some cruise lines stop on their way to Istanbul, but not many. And who wants the crowds and the limited time in port?
There are flights daily from Athens and other European cities. There is a 10-hour ferry from Piraeus year-round. In the summer, there is a ferry connecting the island with Kavala in northern Greece. Ferries are connecting Lesvos with Chios, Ikaria, Lemnos, and Samos.
Lesvos is another secret corner of Greece you really should visit.