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Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD-SEE KATAKOLO.
OUTSIDE OF KATAKOLO
PYRGOS.
Katakolo (Katakolon) receives numerous cruise ships as it one of the only protected harbors on the Peloponnese’s western coast. And why come here at all? The first answer is Olympia, home to the ancient Olympic Games is an hour drive away. But believe it or not, the area holds many other treats as well.
The port area is on a small peninsula sticking out into the Ionian Sea. Obviously, on the sea, which means boats, beaches, and seafood are readily available. The area nearby consists of low hills and small forests before opening up to agricultural fields.
Ancient History.
Pheia (Phea) was a port city sitting on the isthmus connecting the Cape of Katakolo with the mainland. Its location is at the northern tip of a natural bay where the modern village of Agios Andreas is today. All accounts point towards the Phoenicians being the first to live here.
Although its exact age is not definite, Homer mentions it in his writings. Thucydides records that circa 431 B.C., during the first year of the Peloponnesian War, the Athenian fleet was here. Arriving in the larger bay of Katakolo, they lay waste to the area. Then a storm drives them to the smaller harbor of Pheia. The Athenians will use the port as a base for military operations.
Studies show that the region suffers from earthquakes and the resulting tsunamis several times. A tsunami strikes Pheia circa 551 A.D. destroying (further destroying?) damage from the quake. The same series of shocks level nearby Patras and finish off Olympia’s Temple of Zeus.
The archaeological remains of Pheia date from circa 3000 B.C. through the Roman-Byzantine period ending in 1453. The findings include remains of buildings, shards of pottery, and fragments of wine amphorae (containers). The pottery and amphorae help give a clue to periods. There are also the remains of a Roman cemetery.
The significant problem with seeing and excavating the site is that it is now 16 ft underwater. Probably from the 551 A.D. earthquake. They do not allow diving at the site.
A few very minimal ruins from Roman times are on the small island just off the coast.
Many of the relics from these sites are now in the Archaeological Museum of Olympia.
Agios Andreas
The town today is a fishing village with a tourist beach and the St. Andrew of Korakochori church. The church, dating from 1930, sits on the site of an earlier church. The name of the previous church comes from the Apostle Andrew, who was preaching here, circa 68 A.D.
It is in nearby Patras, where the governor orders his death by crucifixion.
The most extensive collection of his relics (body parts) is in the church of St. Andrew in Patras.
Less Ancient.
During the Byzantine times, the Romans build a fortress, Pontikon (Pontikokastro,) on an ancient acropolis behind Agios Andreas.
The Frankish Crusaders, returning from the Fourth Crusade, seize the fort, and the Elis region circa 1205 A.D.
They establish the Principality of Achaea to the east, making the fortress and mint of Glarentz, the main town. They govern the northwest Peloponnese from Pontikon and Glarentz, which they make into essential centers.
For the next 250 years, the area will pass from one count or prince to another. The Kingdom of Majorca gains hold on the region for a brief period circa 1316. After severe fighting and destruction, control goes back to the locals. But they never recover as a vital port or region.
The Ottomans
By 1460, the Ottomans reach the Peloponnese. They destroy the area of Elis and Achaea.
For the next 350 years, this part of the Peloponnese is off the radar. It’s not essential to the Ottomans. During this time, the region of Achaea grows, and Patras becomes its new center. As long as the Greeks pay the Ottomans to use their land, things remain rather peaceful. The Ottomans only place the tax collectors and a few soldiers in the region.
That changes in 1821 when skirmishes on the Peloponnese spark the Greek War of Independence. Achaea is one of the first regions to revolt. Within a short time, the local Greeks have control of the area except for the fort. Battling with the Ottomans will continue until 1828 when they surrender. Four years later, Greece becomes an independent, sovereign state.
In 1883, they open the Pyrgos – Katakolon Railway, linking the town and agricultural areas of Pyrgos to the port at Katakolon.
The World Wars
Greece was lucky on two counts during the first World War. They did not officially enter the war until June 1917, missing the first three years of fighting. More importantly, the battle does not reach past the northern borders of Greece.
They do not do so well in WWII.
Starting in October 1940, the Italian Army invades beginning the Greco-Italian War. The Greeks can keep them from advancing. So in April of 1941, the Germans invade and overran Greece within a month. They divide Greece up between Germany, Italy, and Bulgaria. Italy oversees most of mainland Greece and the Peloponnese.
When Italy tries to join the Allies in the fall of 1943, Germany seizes most of the Italians and control.
With the majority of the Greek army fighting along the northern border, the Peloponnese is on their own. Greek resistance forces spring up immediately. They succeed in securing mountainous areas. However, the German response is brutal.
They partake in several massacres of Greek civilians. The most devastating is the Massacre of Kalavryta in December of 1943. The Nazi soldiers line up all the men of the village of Kalavryta and machine-gun them down.
At the same time, they lock all women and children in the school building and set it afire. Fortunately, all the women and children escape. After killing approximately 1200 men, the Nazi set fire to the rest of the village. Then they destroy twenty-eight other towns, communities, and monasteries.
Finally, in October 1944, the Allies manage to push the Nazi forces out of mainland Greece and the Peloponnese. They will hold on to several of the islands until the end of the war.
Katakolo Today.
Today, Katakolo is a resort town predominantly for Greeks, many from nearby Patmos. Why? Because it’s just far enough away from major tourist sites. The closest ferry port is Kyllini, 50 minutes to the north. And that only has service to a few Ionian Greek islands.
So you have the option of driving from Athens, approximately 3.5 hours or a long bus ride. But if you include it with other sites on the Peloponnese, it becomes a beautiful addition.
What is in Katakolo for me?
See & Hear.
The area includes some Greek and Byzantine ruins to explore.
Take a walk along one of the nearby beaches and listen to the waves wash across the rocks,
Another option is to sit at a cafe along the harbor, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Smell the gyros meat slowly roasting on a spit in town. Or travel to a nearby winery or honey farm to taste their products.
Feel.
Sip a glass of wine at one of the many tavernas overlooking the beach at Agios Andreas.
Watch Helios as he races his chariot towards the horizon.
Sit and Contemplate your day exploring a UNESCO World Heritage site or lying on the beach.
There may be better ways to end your day, but this one doesn’t suck.
(BACK TO TOP)
Should See Katakolo.
Katakolo Promenade – runs along the inner harbor waterfront. Sometimes, there are beautiful yachts to view. The other side of the promenade is one cafe after another where you can get a cold drink or coffee. I prefer walking along here as opposed to the main street one block over which is a tourist trap. It is not too awful if there are no cruise ships in port.
At the north end of the small boat harbor is a large parking area. There are two possible points of interest here.
Katakolo – Olympia Train Platform – is a small yellow square building to the left of the parking area as you come from the promenade. Do NOT blink or you will miss it. From here, the “train” runs to Pyrgos and on to Olympia. To me, it is more of a tram than a train. It runs once in the morning and once in the afternoon on days without a cruise ship in port. On those days, they add extra departures. I highly recommend booking tickets before you arrive as the train only has so many seats. The ride to Olympia is approximately 45 minutes. As of 2019, a round trip ticket is 10 euros per person.
Museum of Ancient Greek Technology – Also hidden in plain sight is this one-story building across the track from the train “station.” Do not let the outside mislead you as to what is inside. Inside you will find around 300 operating models of ancient Greek technology. These models blow the tinker toy erector sets out of the water. The inventions cover the period from 2000 B.C. until the end of the ancient Greek world. Terms describing them include robot, computer, and automatic. It is fascinating.
Agios Andreas (Ag. Andreas)
This small community is approximately five minutes’ drive from Katakolo. Here you will find several small hotels with chairs and umbrellas for rent on the beach. It is not the riviera. The beach and water have many rocks, and beater (old)-sneakers are a great idea. You can have a nice lunch or a cocktail here. Sunsets can be lovely.
Pontikokastro – the Byzantine castle was on the hill directly behind Ag Andreas. Today, there is part of a tower you may be able to catch a glimpse of from the road.
Mercouri Estate – is a few minutes’ drives beyond Ag Andreas. A charming family is running this private winery. On top of the setting and the hospitality, the wines are tasty. You can pre-arrange lite local food with a tasting. Although their media sites are in Greek only, they will answer in English.
Skafidia Monastery – is a nunnery approximately 15 minutes drive from Katakolo. Within the walls is the Tower of Skafidia, a two-story building with four cylindrical bastions. Due to numerous renovations, the age of the tower is a mystery. The rest of the monastery seems to date from circa 1100 AD. It has a fun history, especially during the Ottoman occupation. Visiting hours do not seem to be constant.
Outside of Katakolo
Paralia Skafidia – is a 20-minute drive from Katakolo. There are several beautiful resorts offering chairs and umbrellas for rent. (Resort guests come first). They also offer restaurants. At the south end of the beach, look carefully for a few remains from the Roman Bath Skafidia. The complex was massive.
Kourouta beach – is 30 minutes from Katakolo and is a seaside village. There are numerous beach clubs renting umbrellas and chairs. Luckily, I have never seen enough people present to fill them all. Remember, I do not go to Greek beaches in July – August. This area is where I would go if I were going to spend most of the day at the beach.
Kastro-Kyllini
Glarentza was a medieval town that sat on the point northwest of the Kyllini ferry pier. Dating from the mid-13th century by the 16th century, it was falling into ruin. Today, little remains of the original town or harbor. The Ottomans and the harbor silting were responsible for people leaving. The Germans using it for bombing practice is why little remains.
Castle of Chlemoutsi – dating from 1227 A.D. sits overlooking a cliff on the sea. Initially built by the Franks, the last tenant was the Byzantine emperor Constantine Paleologos.
It is probably the best example of early Frankish fortification in Greece today.
Killini Roman Baths – are approximately 10 minutes south of Kastro in the Loutra-Killini area. There have been baths here since ancient times. Building on the ruins, in 1880, they put in a hotel and a train to bring people to the area. The ruins date from the Nazi occupation when they use the baths for bombing practice. Today, nearby are luxury bath resorts.
Pyrgos
Archaeological Museum of Pyrgos – is in the old municipal market building. It’s fun to visit just for the building. After a significant renovation, it now houses a beautiful collection of artifacts from the local area (Ilea). The collection dates from the Prehistoric period to the creation of the Greek state. The building is by famous Greek architect Ernst Ziller and holds more than you think. Hours seem to vary and may include closing on the weekend. Try to check ahead via the contact on the website (all in Greek).
St Nicholas Eastern Orthodox Church – sits on the main square in the center of town. Dating from 1906, it has lovely marble decor inside.
The Archaeological site of Ilida – is impressive. Not for its intact temples, theaters, and toilets, it doesn’t have any of those. But for its size. You can see just how widespread the town was. The site is approximately 45 minutes from Katakolo.
Archaeological Museum of Ancient Elis – is on the grounds of the ancient site, but is a four-minute drive from the entrance to the site. That’s how big the old city was. The museum has a few sculptures but focuses more on personal effects from the site. Interesting perspective.
Cuisine
The cuisine of the Elia area does not feature any unique dishes. Here you will find the traditional Greek staples with the local touch.
Fresh seafood also appears prominently on most menus due to the small fishing fleet out of Katakolo and Kyllini.
Local products include olive oil, eggplants, artichokes, black-eyed peas, onions, and tomatoes. You will also find citrus fruit, grapes, and raisins. Don’t forget, there is also wine.
In addition to fresh fish, there is local pork, roosters, and cured meats.