BACK TO GREECE
Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
FOLEGANDROS TODAY.
SHOULD SEE.
Folegandros may be from a Phoenician word meaning “rocky land,” which covers many Greek islands.
Others believe the name comes from Greek Mythology, which gives it credence. The son of King Minos, Androgeus (Folegandros), leads Minoans from Crete’s island to escape persecution.
History on the island dates to Prehistoric times. The Carians, descendants of the Minoans living in Asia-minor (today’s Turkey), are probably the first inhabitants of the island.
They were subjects of king Minos and would supply their famous warriors as sailors on the Minoan ships.
The Cretans would kick the Carians off Folegandros somewhere between 2000 – 1500 B.C. There are Carian relics on many of the Cycladic islands.
Circa 1450 B.C., the Mycenaeans replace the Cretans, only to make way for the Dorians circa 1100 B.C.
The Ionians.
The Ionians, Dorians, Aeolians, and Achaeans are the four major tribes of ancient Greeks. In general, they came from today’s western Anatolia (Turkey) once eastern Greece. They began spreading to the Cycladic islands around the 9th or 8th century B.C.
No major settlements appear on the island during this time. With the forming of the Delian League, circa 431 B.C., there is no record of Folegandros as a member.
In the 2nd Athenian League, circa 416 B.C., the town of Pholegandros appears as a contributor.
Unfortunately, there is not much evidence of these inhabitants on the island.
There are a few remains of a sanctuary of Artemis, but a church now sits on the site.
Evidence of human settlement in the area of Agios Georgios beach dates from the mid-3rd century B.C.
A few finds near Karavostasis (ferry port) also indicate human presence from circa 200 B.C.
Copper coins from excavating on the island date back to the 3rd and 2nd century B.C. The coins feature the figure of Folegandros on the front and a bull on the back.
Not So Ancient.
Paying Athens to defend the island means whatever happens to Athens affects Folegandros.
Circa 338 B.C. Phillip II of Macedonia overthrows Athens, inheriting all the islands under its protection.
By the 1st century B.C., the Romans reign over all of Greece. They use Folegandros as a place to banish exiles. This indicates the island was still barren as prisoners did not go to luxury country club institutions in those days.
Byzantine Period.
Many parts of Greece, including the islands, have clues to their history from the Byzantines. Folegandros is not one of those places.
The remaining Byzantine structure is no longer recognizable.
It sits on the site of the ancient acropolis of Pholegandros, erasing the Greek structure.
The Byzantines build a fortress, but the Venetians rebuild it for their needs later, erasing the Byzantine structure.
There is no other Byzantine historical information available, and many believe the island was a victim of attack early on. They did not rebuild it.
The Venetians.
During the Fourth Crusade circa 1204 A.D., the Franks capture the Byzantine capital of Constantinople.
Immediately, there is a landgrab for the former Byzantine lands. The Venetians waste no time claiming the Cyclades.
Marco I Sanudo, a nephew of the Venetian Doge, sails his fleet into the Cyclades, capturing Naxos. He creates the Duchy of the Archipelago (Naxos).
With Naxos and Paros as the main ports, they rule most of the Cycladic islands for the next 100 years. The Venetian nobleman Andrea Ghisi rules Tinos and Mykonos.
Life under Sanudo is good for the islanders, including religious freedom. Although he brings Catholicism with him, he does not force it on the Greek Orthodox. He pledges his alliance to the Latin Emperor in Constantinople.
Circa 1270 A.D., Admiral Likario, representing the Byzantine Emperor, reconquers many of the Cycladic islands. However, by 1310 the Byzantines relinquish their control.
The Sanudo heirs control the Duchy until 1383 when the Crispo family overthrows the Duchy. The destruction during the takeover also destroys social order and local agriculture. Many of the islands become targets for pirates along the trade routes.
The Ottomans.
In 1537, Barbarossa, Grand Admiral of the Ottoman Navy begins collecting the Cycladic islands.
The islands not under Venetian control are, for the most part, left alone. Folegandros receives waves after wave of assaults by the Turkish, and eventually, many abandon the island.
In general, Turkish domination lasts for almost 300 years until the 1821 Greek revolution. Various islands, through grants and privileges, are under the control of non-Ottomans. However, they all pay annual fees.
Ottoman Sultan Selim II, deposes the last Latin Christian duke, Jacopo IV Crispo, circa 1566.
He then awards the Naxos Duchy to Court Jew Joseph Nasi for his help in the Venetian campaign.
In 1579, control of the Duchy, including Folegandros, reverts to the Ottomans.
The Catholic Gozzadini family of Bologna will hold on to a few of the Cyclades until 1617.
Kapudan Pasha rules the islands from afar. He visits once a year to collect his taxes.
The Catholic and Orthodox landowners keep control of their land, position and negotiate the community taxes.
The government is a mix of feudal and Byzantine traditions, Orthodox Christian law, and Ottoman mandates. The language is a mix of Italian (trade), Greek (citizens), and Turkish (administration.
In 1636 Folegandros loses its position as an exarchate of the Greek Patriarchy and reports to Sifnos’ Archbishop.
Pirates, jumping from island to island with no respect to quarantine, spread epidemics that ravaged the islands. In 1687, 1688, and 1689, outbreaks of plague last more than three months, crippling the population and economy. By 1704, several islands get a double punch of plague and anthrax, killing many children.
Circa 1715, the Kapudan Pasha (Ottoman naval admiral) attacks Folegandros due to its support of pirates plundering Ottoman islands. He enslaves most of the residents.
The Russians Are Coming.
By the mid-1800s, Greece is looking for any Orthodox ally not under Ottoman control.
Russia is looking for access to the Mediterranean from the Black Sea.
A Greek legend says that Constantine XI Palaiologos, the last Byzantine emperor, will arise and lead the Greeks to Constantinople. A blond race of liberators will assist him. Catherine, the Great, names her grandson Constantine to hedge her bets.
1875 the Balkan countries rise against the Ottomans.
The Crete revolt of 1866 shows the world Greece’s tolerance is running out with their conquerors. The same year, Serbia and Montenegro also declare war on the Ottomans.
Russia declares war on the Ottomans in 1877 and marches through Romania towards Turkey.
The Great Powers, Britain, France, Germany, fearing the Russians taking control of the Ottoman empire, forcing an 1878 truce.
Romania, Serbia, Montenegro, and Bulgaria are free of the Ottomans, but what about Greece?
That will take another 40+ years.
The Greek War of Independence.
The Greek Revolution against the Ottoman Empire breaks out in 1821 and lasts nine years. Great Britain, France, and Russia will aid the Greeks.
The Kingdom of Greece becomes official by 1832. However, it only includes the mainland, Peloponnese, and the Cycladic islands. Many other islands will remain under Ottoman control. The last islands to join modern-day Greece were the Dodecanese in 1947.
More Recent.
Folegandros did not take off overnight. From 1900 to 1970, it was an asylum for political prisoners.
Since then, there have not been many changes making this an off the path destination.
Folegandros Today.
The island is not large. At approximately 12 square miles in area and a length of six miles, you can see it in a day.
There are three villages on the island that are home to around 400 full-time residents. That number almost doubles in the summer with Greeks who have seasonal homes.
There are many things Folegandros does not have. An airport, a cruise pier, or even a bank.
Ferries run year-round from Piraeus (Athens) and Fira (Santorini.) In the summer, there are additional departures and connections, including Mykonos, Paros, Sikinos, and more. The ferry docks at Karavostasis.
Although there are no banks on the island, there are three A.T.M. machines (as of 2018.) One near the bus station in the port, and two in Chora, the main village.
NOTE: Many places, including hotels and restaurants, do not accept credit cards. Some that do include service fees for using credit cards. Cash (euros) is king.
NOTE: If the A.T.M. is not working, it seems somebody needs to come from another port to fix it. This may or may not be during your stay. I suggest arriving with cash. Worse case, some travel agencies offer a pathetic exchange rate.
So what Does Folegandros have?
Traditional homes, some hundreds of years old.
Byzantine structures can be found here and there.
Small towns where there are no tour buses hemorrhaging tourists.
Restaurants and hotels for the vacationing Greeks, so they better get it right.
Miles of hiking trails and far off beaches.
What is in Folegandros for me?
See & Hear.
This is a visual island—rugged coasts with hidden beaches and vistas from cliffsides.
Or sit in the Chora main square and watch and listen to village life going on around you.
Taste & Smell.
Here you will taste authentic home cooking. They are not feeding hordes, but discriminating Greeks who know how that dish should taste.
Take a walk through the Chora, where numerous tavernas prepare fresh local items. Smell the meat grilling and the faint hint of oregano.
Feel.
Outside the hawkers who meet the ferries, there is not much that feels touristy about this island. The beaches do not host super swim clubs with blaring music. The villages are pedestrian-only, so there is not crazy traffic. You cannot help but feel the calm run through you.
Sit in the square and enjoy a glass of wine. Watch the locals coming and going and think back on your leisurely hike.
There may be better ways to meet the approaching evening, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Folegandros.
Karavostasis.
The only port on the island, this is where you arrive. The village offers the services you expect near a ferry pier: car rental, taxi stand, bus stop.
You can see the small local fishing industry to your left.
Beyond the pier are budget rooms, studios, and motels, many that cater to backpackers. There is a minimart, a coffee shop, and a few cafes.
The big attraction here is the beaches. These are not white sandy beaches, but dense sand and rocks. They are within walking distance of the lodging. Bring old tennis shoes or aqua socks. I have never seen beach chairs or vendors on these beaches.
Livadi Beach – is a semi-sandy beach with pine trees for shade. Suitable for families. It is a 20-minute walk from Karavostasis going south. There are no services, so bring what you need.
Note:
Beaches in Folegandros are a mixture of packed sand and rocks, in varying amounts. Some type of water shoe is a good idea. Very few beaches have facilities such as food, drinks, chairs, or restrooms. Usually, beaches that are harder to reach tend to be clothing optional. However, it is not unusual to see natural bathing at other beaches, especially out of season.
Folegandros (Chora).
Just over two miles from the ferry pier, past a goat or two, is the island’s main village. The trip is almost entirely uphill. Buses, and maybe a taxi, meet each ferry.
The town sits on the edge of a sharp cliff, more than 600 feet above the sea. The majority of the residents live here, and it has the largest number of accommodations and restaurants. The only gas station on the island is at the edge of town, coming from the port. Parking is at a premium. There is a large (free) public lot next to the Chora bus station.
The town is approximately 10 blocks long by four blocks wide. As it follows the twisting cliffside, most streets have a twist or bend. Many of the streets in the center of town are pedestrian-only.
The closer your hotel is to the cliffside, the more expensive it becomes. I prefer to stay two short blocks inland and save the sometimes €100 difference per night. It covers a few glasses of wine at sunset and a nice dinner.
Besides the cliffside views and the charming town, there are few sites to visit.
In Town.
Dounavis Square – is the largest square in town. With a large tree in the center, everyone passes through at some point. It is a nice place for a drink.
Piatsa Square – is adjacent to Dounavis Square to the south. Here several tavernas offer outdoor seating in the summer. Very popular with tourists.
Castle (Kastro) – is built on the edge of the sheer cliff north of Dounavis Square. Here you can see the medieval castle dwellings built to protect the residents during attacks. The back walls of the houses are solid walls, with windows on the front side.
Folegandros Cultural Association – is in a charming traditional building in Pounta Square. Stop by in the summer to check out the various pottery, painting, and photography exhibits they host.
Above Folegandros Chora.
Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary) sits above the town on an ancient Greek temple site. Some of the church’s marble decorations are probably from the previous temple. Some statues bear ancient inscriptions, and there are other finds in the courtyard. The church construction is from sometime pre1687, as a renovation took place in that year. The newest addition dates from 1821.
The church is nice; the views are spectacular. It requires walking up a paved sidewalk that zigzags up the hillside. The elevation gain is approximately 200 feet. There are low walls on either side where you can take a break. There is no shade, so early morning and before sunset are great times.
Ano Meria.
Sitting along the island’s spine running north from Chora, this village has sea views east and west. It also offers panoramic views back towards Chora, 2.5 miles to the south.
Folegandros (Chora), to Ano Meria.
The road to Ano Meria departs Chora next to the public parking lot.
Agali (Agkalis) Beach – is off the main road to the left, less than a mile past the mills. This semi-protected bay has several tavernas and guest houses. Most are seasonal. You can reach the beach by car. In my opinion, this is one of the island’s best beaches.
In summer, you can take a boat from here to nearby beaches Agios Nikolaos, Galifos, and Livadaki. These are predominantly clothing optional. Only Agios Nik has a taverna.
Folklore Museum – is just before you reach Ano Meria. This small museum is actually a traditional agricultural house, complete with a wood oven, well, stable, and olive press. The turnoff is to your left, just beyond the bus stop (right.) It is up a steep ramp you need to take slowly. The sign is even smaller than the museum.
The Village Ano Meria.
The town is not much wider than one block east and one block west off the road. The “center” of town has the towers of two windmills as a marker. The roof and sails are long gone.
There are more churches than hotels or restaurants. This is a Greek village, and I find myself the only one speaking English sometimes.
The paved road ends with a gravel dirt road going left and one right at the island’s north end. Adjacent is the Chrysopigi chapel, which I do not believe is a coincidence.
Other Folegandros Activities.
Hiking.
Boating.
Several boating options are departing from the harbor in Karavostasis. They include beach hopping, swimming, snorkeling, scuba, and sometimes a combination. The majority of the programs are on the west coast of the island.
The Cookie Jar Just Out of Reach.
Chryssospilia Cave – is on the eastern, often rougher coast of the island. As excavations still take place, it is off-limits to the public.
You can only reach the cave by boat. Then you have to climb 30 feet up to the opening.
There is little information on the contents of the cave. Contents may include human skeletons, a Roman cistern, pottery, and more. Archaeologists claim there are hundreds of names in clay. Some of the relics may date to the 4th century B.C.
Sea conditions permitting, you can see the cave opening from a boat, but that’s adding lemon juice to the wound.
Folegandros Summary.
In the summer, you can find some after-dinner music, but not in massive nightclubs thumping until 6:00 A.M.
Here you come to relax and soak up the Greek vibe.
A slower pace, traditional Greek food, and the hospitality of the locals.
Do something you would not usually do. Take a walk with no destination in mind. Read a book, or eeek, take a nap.
It is hard to explain the sense of calm that Folegandros brings upon you.
Whatever your choice, make sure to experience the area.