BACK TO GREECE
Table of Contents:
APOLLO.
ORACLE.
NOT SO ANCIENT.
ANCIENT DELPHI.
DELPHI TOWN.
ARACHOVA.
Delphi has quite a bit of history.
Ancient Delphi History.
Delphi is in the upper part of central Greece, on the slope of Mount Parnassus.
Legend (made-up stuff no one can prove right or wrong) says this was the home of Pythia. Others say it was the Oracle. Whatever! One of them was living here as early as 1400 B.C.
Circa 800 B.C., Python, an enormous serpent or dragon, was protecting the Earth’s navel. Some say Pytho (Python) is the original name of the site and Pythia, was the priestess serving as the oracle. Anyway, Apollo came along, kills the dragon, and it became a worshipping center for him.
According to Greek Mythology, (ancient Facebook), Zeus (510–323 BC) was looking for the center of the Earth. To add credibility to the story, his grandmother Gaia, was the Earth. He sends out two eagles from Mount Olympus, one flying east, the other west. The eagles meet at Delphi scientifically marking where the omphalos, center or navel of Gaia, is located. A rounded stone marks the spot and answers the question; her belly button is an outie.
So how old is it? Excavations, when you don’t want to believe the myth, indicate there were people here by the late 9th century B.C. Artifacts, pottery, and bronze pieces substantiate this period. Unlike many other sites, there seem to be several gods they are worshipping. It appears it was a wide range of gods receiving worshippers.
Let The Delphi Games Begin
Apollo’s sacred Delphi was a panhellenic sanctuary. Starting circa 586 B.C., athletes from all over the Greek world would gather to compete in the Pythian Games.
The Panhellenic (pan-all,) (Hellenic-Greece) Games took place in four locations around Greece. The two significant events were the Pythian Games at Delphi, and two years later, the games at Olympia. In between these two were games at Nemea (Nemean Games) and Isthmia (Isthmian Games.) These are the precursors to the Modern Olympics.
The victors at Delphi would receive a Stephanos (laurel crown) while the winners at Olympia would receive an Olive crown.
In Olympia, the games are pretty much the sole breadwinner for the area. Delphi did not rely on the games as their cash cow. They have Gaia’s belly button (see Rock City,) and the Oracle (have your credit card ready.)
Religious Delphi
The name Delphi comes from the same root as the word womb, another reference to mother earth Gaia.
Apollo’s connection is easy to understand. He became a dolphin and carried Cretan (from Crete) priests to this mountainous location on his back. Or maybe while out walking, he stopped here with some laurel in his bag. Hence the laurel wreath for the winners at the Pythian Games. Both seem plausible…
Apollo
Let’s take a little step sideways for a moment and get up to speed on Apollo. He is perhaps one of the more important Greek gods, as he represents many things.
He is beautiful, and almost always without facial hair. The poster boy for the male Greek athlete, he oversees the health and education of the children.
His mom and dad are Leto and Zeus, and we know who grandma is. He has a twin sister, Artemis, goddess of the hunt.
Apollo oversees archery, music, poetry, dance, truth, prophecy, diseases, healing, the sun, light, and more. One of his children is Asclepius, famous for his ability to heal.
In Delphi, he goes by Apollo Pythios and oversees the Oracle. Also, he wards off evil, oversees seafarers, foreigners, fugitives, and refugees.
The Delphians also build a significant temple to Phoebus Apollo, Apollo of the ray (sun). Many festivals marking the seasons, and the sun’s position take place at Delphi.
Oracle of Delphi
Another major attraction to Delphi is the oracle, (AKA Pythia, priestess) of the Apollo sanctuary. One story says priests from Knossos brought the prophet here around the 8th-century B.C.
Another version, dating much earlier, tells about a heard of goats that were grazing in the area. When the goats would venture near a rock outcropping, they would begin to act differently. Their shepherd stuck his head near the cravis, and the emerging fumes sent him into a trance.
Soon, a structure appears over the source of the fumes. They stick an older chase woman into the inner sanctum. They advise that her subsequent ramblings are Apollo speaking through her. But only the priests, for a donation, could unravel them. My cat and I offer the same service.
The “answer” would be a jumble with any number of possible outcomes. For instance, “a real leader will succeed.” This response does not say the person asking the question will succeed. If they want to believe that, it’s their choice. In other words, it was the predecessor to the psychic call center and the Magic 8 Ball.
Consulting of the oracle could only take place at certain times of the year when Apollo was present. Translating that means that at certain times of the year, the fumes were not strong enough to cause trances.
This vent was not the only fissure emitting trance causing fumes, but it was the most famous.
Phillip, his son Alexander, and many other leaders would visit the oracle over the centuries.
The Romans
As the Romans slowly take over this area, their leaders would also visit the oracle for advice.
In 83 A.D., Thracian tribes on a raiding trip plunder and destroy the temple. Without the temple to raise money, or money to build a temple, the area goes into decline.
It is not until Hadrian becomes emperor in 117 A.D. that Delphi finds a friend. After receiving favorable answers to several questions, Hadrian funds the rebuilding of a temple for the oracle. The whole site of Delphi blooms from this.
By 324 A.D., the Roman Empire is history, and Constantine is ruling from Byzantium, soon to be Constantinople. Christianity is spreading across the Roman Empire, but it will take another 100 years to affect Delphi.
Finally, in 424, Delphi hosts its last pagan games. When does the oracle close shop? No one is sure.
Delphi and the Ottomans
For the next 1000 years, Delphi is a backwater. Without games or an oracle, there is no reason to visit.
That changes in 1453 when the Ottomans overthrow Constantinople. Their domination over Greece does not take long. They capture Athens by 1458 and the Greek mainland and Peloponnese within the next two years.
The locals flee Delphi long before the arrival of the main legions of Ottomans. The city’s location is of no interest to the Ottomans, and Delphi begins a long period of desolation.
Forgotten Delphi
Although there was no one living permanently on the site, there were always visitors. Who knows what treasures left with them over the years.
Circa 1580, a massive earthquake, tumbles most of the structures and pillars, causing severe damage to the antiquities.
With no one and no money to rebuild, the site becomes an ancient Home Depot. People cart of building material to build their structures. Some of these are in the village of Kastri, sprouting up in and around Delphi.
In the 1700s, several English-based expeditions catalog, sketch and write about the ruins.
Lord Byron, who has a bad habit of carving his name in antiquities, visits Delphi in 1809. Other visiting Brits include Lord Aberdeen and Lord Elgin, famous for the mutilation and steeling of Greek antiquities.
Delphi Gets Its Greek Back
With the end of the Greek War of Independence, (1830), antiquities, and their care, become a primary concern. The site at Delphi is one of the more important ones. Governor Capodistria creates a museum on the island of Aegina. Several sculptures, including some from Delphi, end up there.
Almost immediately, there is a protest that the items from Delphi need to remain there in a local museum.
Sounds great, but the brand new country has no money for new museums.
The French Archaeological School of Athens has a great interest in the site of Delphi. It takes over 60 years to get the Greeks to agree to a plan. It includes relocating the town and people of Kastri.
Finally, in 1892, La Grande Fouille, (The Great Excavation,) begins. The plan, scale, and time table are extensive.
For the next ten years, they restore, excavate, and end with a museum for the Delphi artifacts. Restoration will continue after the completion of the master plan, but Greece has a first-class archeological site. In May 1903, the inauguration of the Delphi Archaeological Museum took place.
Delphi Today.
The archeological site is to the east of the modern-day town of the same name. The museum is a five-minute walk from the entrance to the site.
What is in Delphi for me?
See & Hear.
There is the main reason you are here—the ancient site. My favorite times are early morning and late afternoon. Besides the smaller crowds, the ever-changing shadows are picturesque. Listen to the wind through the columns.
Taste & Smell.
Take a detour to nearby Delphi, where numerous tavernas prepare fresh local items from farm to table. Smell the meat grilling and the faint hint of oregano. Many have incredible views over the valley below.
Feel.
People have been walking these streets for more than 3000 years. Alexander the Great and Roman emperors, including Hadrian, came here for answers. The site is part mythical and also historic. Walk along the sacred way right when the site opens, and the tour buses have yet to arrive. Can you feel the history?
There may be better ways to start your day, but this one doesn’t suck.
Delphi Museum
The museum today, now over 100 years old, is in its fourth version. It shows the works, spanning over numerous centuries, in a way that explains the history of Delphi.
In the fourteen rooms, you will primarily see statues, such as the Charioteer of Delphi. There are also architectural elements, including the frieze of the Siphnian Treasury and the museum’s cover girl, the Sphinx of Naxos. There is also a cafe, gift shop, and restrooms.
Ancient Delphi.
The Archaeological Site of Delphi is just east of the town of the same name. At an elevation of 1870 feet above sea level, it offers incredible views of the valley below. The site is on a steep hillside, with most of the structures are above the entrance. I will not sugar-coat it. There is a lot of uphill walking and steps. The good news, when you’ve gone as far as you can, it’s all downhill back to the entrance.
The occupation of the site dates back to the beginning of the Mycenaean period (1600–1100 B.C.) The majority of the surviving ruins date from the 6th century B.C. or later.
The Structures, starting at the main gate, are in the following order.
The main gate would be where the original town was. The city would support the site of Delphi.
Roman Agora
The first flat area you come to is the remains of the Roman Agora (market). It is over the original Greek one. The market was the center of any town.
Sacred Way
The sacred way has tables on either side where they would place their votive offerings. People would light candles either in thanks for a past victory or the future blessing of a people.
Delphi Treasuries
At the top of the Sacred Way are the treasuries.
Most of the treasuries are now rectangular foundations as their blocks became building material for other structures.
As you make the turn on the Sacred Way, you will be looking at the most impressive treasury, the Athenian. Athen’s built it to commemorate their 490 B.C. victory at the Battle of Marathon.
Amphictyonic Council
Just up the hill from the Athenian Treasury is the remains of the Amphictyonic Council. They were in charge of the Pythian Games. They would meet biannually and came from different tribes in Thessaly and central Greece. As Delphi gained more control of itself, the council began losing much of its influence.
Rock of Sibylia (Sibyl)
The Sibyl rock is a pulpit-like outcrop of rock just beyond the council building. Legend says the ancient Sibyl (pre-Pythia of Apollo) would sit here to deliver her prophecies.
Naxian Column
Just behind the Sibylia is the site of the Naxian Column. The Naxian sphinx (in the museum) sat upon this 30-foot tall Ionic pillar. It was protecting the temple. In reality, it was reminding people how much money-power Naxos has.
Polygonal wall
The retaining wall upon which the temple of Apollo sits dates to circa 548 B.C. The masonry is in a polygonal design, giving the wall its name.
Stoa of the Athenians
Under the south-east corner of the terrace is this Ionic portico consisting of seven fluted columns. Look closely, and you can see they are from a single piece of stone. This construction is most unusual. Nearby, you can see that most columns were stone discs stacked on top of each other. It is thanks for the Athenian naval victory over the Persians in 478 B.C. They would show off their war trophies here.
Grand Alter
At the top of the sacred way, where you access the temple terrace, is the site of the Grand Alter. Here, they would place the offerings to the god Apollo before approaching the temple.
Altar of the Chians
This sanctuary, in front of the Temple of Apollo, is a gift from the people of Chios. The original 5th century B.C. structure is of black marble, except for the base and cornice. It would have been striking against all the other white marble structures.
Temple of Apollo
The big white elephant, visible from just about anywhere in the site, is the main temple to Apollo. The Doric ruins you can see date from 330 B.C. They are on top of the ruins of a temple dating from 511 B.C. A 373 B.C. earthquake destroys the 6th century B.C. temple. It sits on an earlier structure.
The Roman emperor Theodosius I silences the oracle by destroying the pagan temple, statues, and works of art. This is circa 390 A.D.
Monument of Prusias II
The square column just to the north of the temple entrance dates from circa 182 B.C. It is from the Aetolian League to king Prusias II for his virtue and financial support.
Theatre
On the northwest side of the temple, sits the base of the ancient theater. From the theater, spectators would look out over the sanctuary and the valley below.
The remains today date from the 4th century B.C. but include remodeling. Improvements are from King Eumenes II of Pergamon circa 110 B.C. and Emperor Nero before his visit in 67 A.D.
The theater, which could hold approximately 4,500 spectators was the site of vocal and musical contests during the Pythian Games.
Most people end their uphill exploration at this point. If you are up to climbing, there are incredible views of the site and valley from above.
Above
Stadium
Below Delphi
Approximately a half-mile east of the main entrance to the archeological site, are a few more structures. Some day-trippers will see them briefly from their bus. Explorers without a guide or good guide book often miss them altogether. They have not had as much T.L.C. as the structures above but indeed, warrant a visit.
Tholos
They have done a restoration to three of the Doric columns.
Delphi Gymnasium
The gymnasium is adjacent to the Sanctuary of Athena complex. Gymnasiums were different than what we think of today. Yes, it was a place for (predominantly) young men to practice for sporting events.
However, the more critical role was of safety and sanitation. Huh?
The location of most Greek gymnasiums was near or outside the main gate or port of a town. Here, arriving travelers would bath. Some gymnasiums would have medical staff to check visiting people for disease. Travelers would need to pass the screening before they could enter the city.
From the ruins, it appears there were two levels with a stoa (porch) on the upper level for fresh air. On the main level is where the palaestra (gym), pool, and baths were.
Castalian Spring
Just above the gymnasium, where the highway does a 90-degree turn, are the few ruins of the sacred spring. Parts of what were two monumental fountains remain. Here, magical waters came from the underground springs. It was also the source of water for the baths, making them magical as well.
Worth a glance if you are walking between the lower sites and the leading archeological site.
Further Afield
Hippodrome
We know from writings that prominent political leaders would race chariots during the Pythian games. There is a statue in the Delphi museum of the Chariot racer. So, where did they race chariots?
The stadium is too narrow. When you see the hillside of the site, you know that’s out of the question.
One of the greatest mysteries of Delphi has been the location of the hippodrome.
In 2012, in the archeological area of Gonia just north of Itea, they may have found some clues. There is a natural setting that fulfills many of the requirements for a hippodrome. There is a level field for the track and a raised area for spectators.
Unfortunately, there are private buildings and an olive grove over the area in question. As always, funding stands in the way.
Delphi Town
Remember the town of Kastri that they had to move from the archeological site? Guess where they put it? About one mile west of the archeological site is the present-day village of Delphi. Starting with the relocation of the inhabitants of Kastri, it also provided accommodations for the workman on the excavation.
Similar to the ancient site, today, the UNESCO site supports the local hotels, cafes, and souvenir shops. After the last tour bus leaves, it becomes a charming little town.
There are no significant sites to see in the town, which is what keeps the over-development away. There are some clean, friendly hotels, motels, and mom & pops. The tavernas, especially at night, cater to a more Greek clientele, which means no items out of the freezer. Although the archeological site is the main reason to visit, there are a few small gems to check out.
Museum of Delphic Festivals
The museum is in the former house of Angelos and his American wife, Eva Sikelianou. Angelos built the house between the archeological site and the new village.
In the same year, 1927, he organized the first modern-day Delphic festival in an attempt to attract people to Delphi.
He was able to attract people from the worlds of art, literature, journalism, and even politicians from around the world.
Unfortunately, the festivals did not attract enough paying spectators. By the end of the fourth festival, Angelos had to go into bankruptcy, ending the celebration.
Guests can see artifacts from these festivals, including photographs and printed material. There are costumes from ancient Greek drama performances and other items from the festival.
Delphi to Kirra Ancient Footpath
Starting at the east end of Delphi, you can follow an approximately eight-mile ancient footpath. It starts near the Delphi stadium, but you will get your workout starting from the village. The path begins at an elevation of 2200 feet and runs down to ancient Kirra at sea level.
The path is part of the European E4 long-distance trail. It is a moderate hike only for those in excellent health. This path is not a marble-paved Roman road, but a hard-packed earth trail over uneven terrain. Once you get down to the valley, you pass through olive groves, which provide a little shade. Still, early morning, with a lot of water, is a great time to go.
Profitis Ilias Monastery
West of Delphi and Chryso (Chrisso), is the starting point of the Greek War of Independence in Central Greece. The monastery served as the headquarters and shelter for the Greek freedom fighters. During the war, the Turks destroy it. It receives severe damage again in 1942 from the Italians during WWII.
Today, the monastery is operating as a convent. It is open to the public and offers incredible views to the Gulf of Corinth.
Itea
On the Gulf of Corinth is the little village of Itea, just west of Kirra, the ancient port of Delphi. Itea is not a tourist destination. It occasionally hosts some of the smaller cruise ships calling for Delphi.
There are tavernas, corner markets, and several small, clean, charming hotels. It is a great place to take a day off if you are power touring through this part of Greece.
A twenty-minute drive from Delphi, you will find yourself in a Greek seaside village. Spreading both ways from the main pier is a small promenade with several seafood tavernas along the way. You have no choice but to slow down and relax here.
Arachova.
In the mountains to the east of Delphi is this charming hilltop town.
It is a ski destination in the winter. What? skiing? SNOW skiing in Greece? Absolutely. At an elevation of 7415 feet, Mount Parnassos to the north of Arachova has several ski areas. Weekenders from Athens use Arachova as their ski village. Many cafes and tavernas are open year-round
Weekenders from Athens use Arachova as their summer activity village. Outdoor activities by day and late nights. It’s location, less than two hours from Athens makes it easy access.
Due to its proximity to Delphi, it also makes it a stop for too many tourist buses.
As I go for the destination and not drinking until morning, I try to visit in the spring and fall.
If you are there in the summer, try to see it in the early morning before the tour buses arrive or the late-nighters regain consciousness.
The setting is lovely. Each time I visit, there are more trendy cafes and deluxe accommodations, but you can still find old Arachova.
Get off the main streets and look for the locals. I suggest this in every village, town, city, or metropolis you visit. This route will help you experience the location.
Find a place where you can sample the local P.D.O. Formaela cheese with the black wine.
Local handicrafts include colorful textiles, rugs, carpets, and wooden crafts.
Clock Tower of Arachova
Sitting atop the Tiria rock, it is almost a lighthouse from far away. The original tower dates from the seventeen hundreds, but it collapses during an earthquake circa 1870. It began as a church bell tower. The current clock tower is from the rebuilding.
Before refrigeration in the home, they would keep the fresh foods and cheeses in the base. During the World Wars, they hid the city’s valuable inside. It is the kodak moment in the town. Check it out when the lights are on at night.
Ethnographic Museum of Arachova
On the main street, in a rebuilt church by the clock tower, this small museum offers local folklore exhibits.
Lakka Square
The main square of the town is a meeting point for the citizens and visitors year-round. If you like people watching, this is the place day or night.
Holy Church of Agios Georgios
Travelers willing to climb the 264 steps leading to the church will find an incredible view waiting for them. The church, dating from 1676, celebrates St George every April.
Delphi Summary.
The reason you travel two hours from Athens is to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Delphi. But hopefully, you now see there’s good reason to make it more than a few hours on a day trip.
Enjoy Delphi in the morning before the tour buses arrive, and the heat of the day. Enjoy the village of Delphi at night, when the tourists leave, and the locals come out to play.
Make Delphi a stop on your way to or from Kalabaka or the northwest Peloponesse.
Whatever your choice, make sure to experience the area.