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Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD-SEE CORFU.
OUTSIDE OF CORFU TOWN.
BEACHES.
Corfu is the second largest of the Ionian Islands and includes several small satellite islands.
The island is mountainous, with two ridges dividing the island into three areas (districts). The north is more mountainous, the south has a more flat space for agriculture, and the middle has both.
Pantokrator (the Almighty) is the highest mountain at almost 3,000 feet. It creates a ridge that runs east to west in the north.
The original name of Corfu is Korkyra (Kerkyra). Mythology says she was the beautiful daughter (nymph) of Asopos, who is a Greek mainland river. Randy ol’ Poseidon falls in love with her and abducts her to this island. After knocking her up, he gives the island her name. The baby’s name is Phaiax. The nickname for the island of Corfu is the island of the Phaeacians.
Ancient History.
A reference, written in Mycenaean Linear B script circa 1300 B.C., is the first mention in writing of Corfu (Kerkyra.)
Several scholars identify the island as Scheria, the island of the Phaeacians, in Homer’s Odyssey.
Other island myths include Jason (of Argonaut fame) marrying Medea in her cave. Apollonius gave Corfu the name Drepane (sickle) because Cronus hid the sickle he used to castrate his father Uranus here.
And the myths go on and…
Much of the island’s early history relies on the writings of the Greek Strabo (63 B.C. – 24 A.D.), who was a geographer and historian. The Liburnians, living along the coast of modern-day Greece and Albania, were also living on the island until 735 B.C.
Then the Corinthians, during their expansion, push them back to the mainland. The island people began taking on a self-governing attitude. Corinth reminds them of their place in 665 B.C. when they attack the island. For a while, the Corinthian tyrant (leader) Periander forces them to support his troops.
After regaining its independence, the island throws itself into a purely mercantile existence.
When the Persians invade Greece in 480 B.C., Corfu does not lend its fleet of 60 ships to help stop them.
By 435 B.C., they are fighting again with Corinth over the control of Epidamnus, a Corinthian city on the mainland. Corfu allies with Athens, creating a catalyst for the first part of the Peloponnesian War. (427 B.C.)
Corfu sits out most of the first war. In the Sicilian Expedition (415–413 B.C.), they act as a supply base for Athens.
When the Second Peloponnese War begins in 413 B.C., Corfu once again takes a back seat.
Post-Peloponnese.
Circa 375 B.C. it again allies with Athens as a league. The Spartans attack two years later, and Corfu wards them off.
When Alexander the Great dies in 323B.C, Greece plunges into the Hellenistic period. Corfu (still Corcyra) now has Greeks on one side and a new enemy on the other, the Roman Republic.
Then, if they don’t have enough grief, circa 303 B.C., Cassander attacks from Macedonia to the northeast. They put down the attack. Next, come the Spartans who do manage to gain control for a short time. Corfu regains its independence.
Corfu is wearing down from two attacks, and when Agathocles of Syracuse attacks around 296 B.C., they are no match.
He gives Corfu to the King of Epirus, the current empire on the mainland adjacent to Corfu. It is a dowry for his daughter, who is marrying the King. Corfu remains under the Epirotic alliance until 255 B.C. when the last King of Epirus dies.
Corfu remains independent for 26 years until the naval battle of Paxos when it falls to the Illyrians. Then a larger fish gobbles up the Illyrians, the Roman Republic.
The island is a Roman maritime station until 148 B.C.? when the Romans assign it to Macedonia province.
In 31 B.C., Octavian (Augustus) uses it as a base against Mark Antony and Cleopatra.
Less Ancient.
Christianity arrives in Corfu circa 40 A.D. Jason of Tarsus, who gave lodging to the Apostle Paul, comes to Corfu with Sosipatrus of Patras. They preach, they end up in jail, they convert, and after a miracle, save many people.
Their relics may be in the Church of Jason and Sosipater, built for them circa 100 A.D.
Corfu is still part of the province of Epirus Vetus. The Roman Empire is so busy with internal struggles, and it somewhat leaves the area alone.
Circa 330 A.D. as the Roman Empire is crumbling and the Byzantine period is beginning, the province takes more self-control.
In 535 A.D., the Ostrogothic Kingdom of Italy attacks the Byzantine Empire. They sack Corfu in 551 because of its location. The old city being in the area today they call Palaiopolis. The new city begins moving closer to the rocky hills near the Old Fortress for better defenses.
Circa 800 A.D., Corfu, and the other Ionian Islands become part of a maritime province. Its goal to protect the Byzantines from western attacks.
It is also a guardian of the sea lanes to Byzantine possessions in the south of Italy.
The Normans.
The peace and prosperity they are enjoying starts to crumble in 999 A.D. as the Normans begin invading Italy. By 1033, they control Southern Italy and turn their sites on the east. Target number one is Corfu, which they seize in 1081 and make it into a staging area for their eastward advance.
The Republic of Venice helps the Byzantines recapture it three years later.
The Normans capture Corfu again in 1147, and in 1149, the Byzantines succeed in its recovery.
Then a third time, in 1185, the Normans seize the island, but this lasts a short time.
The Crumbling Empire.
The Byzantine Empire has been under attack for hundreds of years. It no longer has the men, or wealth to oversee all of its provinces.
Circa 1197 Genoese privateers seize the island as a base for their pirating. The Venetians, victims of their pirating, put them out a few years later and it over to Epirus in 1214,
Epirus gives it to the King of Sicily as a dowry. The 1267 Treaty of Viterbo, passes it to the Capetian House of Anjou headed by Charles I. He also gets former Epirus.
By 1272, he creates his own small Kingdom of Albania for himself. Circa 1282, he loses Sicily but keeps Albania. Corfu is not of much interest to him. By 1360, Romani people (Gypsies) have a fiefdom on the island.
Circa 1386, the Republic of Venice, retakes control. Corfu becomes an important Venetian stronghold during the series of conflicts with the Ottoman Empire. These begin in 1396 and last until 1718. Corfu is one of the few Greek ports not to fall to the Ottoman.
The Venetians continue to hold formal sovereignty over the island until 1797 when Napoleon arrives. In June of that year, the French arrive in Corfu to establish a Provisional Municipality.
In 1812, the British take naval control of the Adriatic from the French. The last French stronghold is the island of Corfu.
It will not be until the spring of 1814, when Napoleon abdicates, that Corfu, will surrender. It becomes part of the United States of the Ionian Islands under the British. This jurisdiction of the United Kingdom will remain until 1864.
British Corfu.
At first, the British are the good guys as they are against the Ottomans in Greece. With the beginning of the Greek War of Independence in 1821, Greek resistance groups start forming against the British. Not just on Corfu.
By 1829, the Greek War of Independence is over. By 1832, Greece has a new constitution and king. But the Ionian Islands are still under British rule.
The next thirty years are not peaceful, with numerous uprisings and the hanging of several radicals.
Finally, by 1864, representatives of the United Kingdom, Greece, France, and Russia sign the Treaty of London. Items include the transfer of sovereignty of the Ionian Islands to Greece. On May 28, the Greek flag began waving on all the Ionian Islands.
First World War.
Second World War.
Corfu Today.
Today, the few examples of classical architecture that survive the war mix with Italian and post-war Greek design. The island attracts mostly Greeks and Europeans on vacation. It also snags Americans off cruise ships passing between Venice and Athens.
What is in Corfu for me?
See & Hear.
The island has numerous mountain lookouts and beautiful beaches where you can listen to the waves.
Immerse yourself in one of the intriguing museums.
Another option is to sit at a cafe overlooking the cricket grounds, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Stroll the old town and lose yourself in the side streets. Smell the gyros meat slowly roasting on a spit. Pass a bakery with the scent of fresh bread coming out the door.
Feel.
Sip a glass of wine at one of the many panoramic viewing points.
Watch the shadows grow longer across Palaiokastritsa Bay.
Sit and Contemplate your day exploring a 13th-century monastery, a 19th-century palace, or lying on the beach.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Corfu.
Ancient Greek.
Palaiopoli is the site of the ancient (8th century B.C.) The Greek town of Corfu (Korkyra). Unfortunately, due to bombing, sacking, and pilfering of building supplies, almost nothing remains. Also, preservation was not a big thing after the war. Archeologists believe there is more of the city there. But the post-war building craze built an entire neighborhood over the site.
Starting near the airport going east:
Neratzichas Tower – is all that remains of the 4th Century B.C. walls. It is approximately 580 feet west of the Artemis Temple.
Temple of Artemis, Gorgonion Pediment – sounds impressive. Remains of the foundations will give you an outline of the structure.
The Ancient Market – is ten minutes’ walk further east. Once the agora of the old town, there are few remains except for the foundations. Many people drive through it as they race to get their kodak moment at Vlacherna Monastery. To add insult, the ruins of the early Christian Basilica of Saint Kerkyra sits on top of it.
Mon Repos
Mon Repos – is a villa dating from 1831, built as a summer residence for the British Lord High Commissioner. This construction is during the time of the United States of the Ionian Islands. After the union with Greece in 1864, the villa became the summer residence of the Greek King George I. It was a royal residence until 1967. Royal births at the villa include Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh and Princess Alexia of Greece and Denmark.
Today, the villa is the Archeological Museum of Palaiopoli. In addition to information on the villa, several galleries feature ancient sites in the area. It is an eight-minute uphill walk from the old market.
At the south end of the Mon Repos park are two more ruins. The Temple of Hera, dating from around 610 B.C. and the Doric Kardaki Temple, dating from 500 B.C.
Ancient Roman
Roman Baths in Benitses is about the only remains from their 600+ years on the island. Unfortunately, it is hard to find; there are no signs to direct you. Once you do find it in a neighborhood, there is a fence so you can not get too close. There are no signs of renovations. There is no information at the site and little in the history books. It is probably the baths of a private villa due to its size.
There are no other significant Roman ruins on the island.
The most popular Ancient Greek or Roman (I have guests call it both) ruin on the island is not ancient or a ruin. The British build the Church of St. George circa 1840 on the grounds of the Old Fortress. As they are recycling building material, it makes sense to use a Greek design, a temple. First, an Anglican church, with the departure of the British it became Greek Orthodox. Today, it is only in use one day a year, St George day in April.
New Fortress Area
New Fortress – dates from the mid-15th century. The Venetians built this and new city walls due to the growing city and the threat of attack. The majority of the buildings inside the fort ar by the British during their occupation in the 1800s. The dry moat is an excellent example of Venetian and moat design.
Starting at the ferry port, you can circle the New Fortress at sea level (keeping the fort on your right). The entrance is on the southeast side, a building beyond the memorial park.
The area along the water, with the park, promenade, and parking, is Spilia.
Continue east along the water.
Dionysios Solomos Museum – is a small museum honoring the National poet of Greece, Dionysios Solomos. The museum sits on the spot where the house Solomos lived and died in once stood. German bombs destroyed the original in 1941. There are few descriptions, and the majority are in Greek. This museum is for fans of Solomos only.
Antivouniotissa Museum – is another minute’s walk along the waterside street. It sits at the top of a staircase and may look like a church because it once was. It was a private church dating from the 15th century. Today, it is a museum of post-Byzantine religious art from the 15th to the 20th century. The collection includes works from the Cretan and early Heptanese schools.
Two minutes, further along, is Faliraki Overlook offering a great view of the Old Fortress. When you turn right, the building directly in front of you is the Palace of Saint Michael and Saint George. Dating from 1818, it was the administrative offices and governor’s mansion during the British occupation.
After joining Greece, it became a summer residence of the Greek royal family. Keep to your left and pass through the arch on the right of the palace. You are now on the Esplanade.
Esplanade Area.
The Spianada, (Esplanade) is the largest square in Greece and the town’s historical center. A cricket field is in the middle.
The Museum of Asian Art occupies the palace today. It contains an incredible collection of art from Asia and India. The building is impressive, and several rooms have decorations and period furnishings from the 1800s. For Europe, it is very accessible, and it has air conditioning, not air cooling.
Old Fortress – dates from the 12th century, in place of earlier fortifications dating back to the 6th century. The Venetians built the current fort to protect the town and the vital shipping lane that runs past it. It wards off all three Ottoman attacks.
The fort is open for exploring. The summit offers excellent views over the city. They also provide exhibitions, concerts, and cultural events throughout the year. From the bridge to the Old Fort, you get a great view of the city walls. You have been walking on top of them since before the palace.
The rest of the Spianada (southern half) contains a bandstand, a memorial to Sir Thomas Maitland, fountains, and benches. It makes for a pleasant walk or sitting in the shade to people watch. I usually cut across the middle. There is a pedestrian walk from the Old Fort to the west side of the Spinada.
Reaching the west side, on your left, is the world-famous Pentophánaro. The what? Where several streets come together, there is a unique tall streetlamp with five (pento) lamps on it. Look around, and there are no others like it. This lamp is a popular meeting point for locals.
As you proceed west, all the streets become pedestrian. You are now in Corfu’s Old Town.
Old Town
The 1943 Nazi bombing destroys much of this area. Fortunately, using photos and occasionally found blueprints, they can piece parts back together.
City Hall – is one block west of the pentophanaro. (See? it is a good landmark.) The original building, from the 1600s, was a men’s club, then an opera house, becoming the city hall in 1907.
Cathedral of Saint James and Saint Christopher – is behind the City Hall on the square. The first church on this spot dates from the mid-1500s. It would survive until the Nazi bombings in 1943. Today, the church houses some church paintings and funerary monuments.
Serbian Museum of Corfu – houses exhibits about the Serbians’ tragic fate on the island during the First World War. The exhibition includes uniforms, ammunition, and more.
Ionian Parliament Building – is one block further past the Serbian Museum. This neoclassical building dates from 1853. After joining Greece, there was no need for an Ionian Parliament. Today the structure is for cultural events.
Return towards City Hall and walk four short blocks north to Nikiforou Theotoki Street.
Plakada Agiou – was the original town square before the Spianada. Today, it is a Kodak moment due to the different styles of Architecture.
Banknote Museum of the Ionian Bank – is on Plakada Agiou in a historic building. The museum is on the first floor of the building. Initially, it was home to the first Branch of the Ionian Bank in Corfu, beginning in 1840. The complete collection, consisting of 1500 items, includes every series of Greek Banknotes from the beginning in 1822 until 2002. Also, they have drawings, proofs, printing molds, and archive material from the bank’s history.
St. Spyridon Church – is just north of the bank building. The Greek Orthodox church dating from the 1580s is famous for the paintings on the ceilings. The bell tower, highest in the Ionian islands, dominates the area.
Casa Parlante – is just down from the Plakada Agiou, heading for the Spianada. The historic mansion recreates the environment of everyday life for a noble family in the 1800s. Besides the furnishings, there are also moving figures to bring it to life.
The Museum of the Corfu Philharmonic Society, Nikolaos Mantzaros – is across the street from Casa Parlante. Musicians enjoy this museum that presents the history of the Philharmonic since its beginning in 1841. Nikolaos Halikiopoulos Mantzaros was the Society’s first artistic director, a position he held for 31 years. Also, he was a music teacher, writer of counterpoint, and composer. He put music to lyrics by Dionysios Solomos’ (national poet) for the Greek National Anthem.
Continue east back towards the Spianada.
Liston Arcade and Terrace – forms the western border of the Spianada.
I call it the old town’s front porch. It was a gift from Napoleon, who built it for his soldiers. There are numerous cafes where you can enjoy a beverage and watch Corfu pass by. Or maybe watch a game of British cricket, from the French arcade while enjoying a Greek island.
The Bazaar of Corfu Old Town – does not have official boundaries. From the Liston, walk west or north, or northwest. Pedestrian street after street will have displays outside their shops as if it is a continuous outside market. It is. Think about the Plaka in Athens.
Not So Old Town
Archaeological Museum of Corfu – is south of the Old Town and Spianada. The collection began with items from the upper Paleolithic era (20,000 B.C.) when Corfu was still part of the mainland. It continues through late antiquity. The collection includes the monumental pediment from the nearby Temple of Artemis. It depicts Gorgo and is the oldest stone pediment from ancient Greek architecture in this good of shape.
Monument Menekrati – is a cenotaph (empty grave or memorial), dating from around 600 B.C. The round structure is approximately 4.5 feet tall and 15 feet in diameter. It is one of only two monuments of this kind anywhere in Greece. The site is a five-minute walk south of the museum.
Church of Jason and Sosipater – is the only church remaining from the Roman times. Dating from around 1000 A.D., it sits on top of the ruins of another church, possibly dating to 100 A.D. The church may have relics of both saints inside, but they are not on display. The small church features beautiful Byzantine architecture. It is five minutes drive from Mon Repos.
Vlacherna Monastery – is the poster child for Corfu, appearing in many brochures. The chapel dates from circa 1685, and it was a women’s monastery. It sits on an island, which today is at the end of the airport’s runway. Years later, they build a causeway connecting the island to the mainland. Guests can visit the chapel.
Pontikonisi (Mouse Island) – is further out in the bay behind Vlacherna. The myth says the island is the upside-down boat of Odysseus (Ulysses) star of The Odyssey.
During a terrible storm, the ship founders there, and Poseidon turns it into a rock. The 11th-century Byzantine chapel of Pantokrator is on the island, which is only open to visitors on August 6.
Just Outside of Town
Achilleion Palace – is a grand summer palace in the village of Gastouri, south of town. The Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sisi), builds the escape in 1889, after the tragic loss of her only son. The architectural style is of a mythical ancient palace. She bases the decor on Achilles from Greek mythology, hence the name. The gardens include views of the sea.
Capodistrias Museum – resides in a country estate once belonging to the family of Ioannis Capodistrias, the first Governor of Greece. The family would own the estate, northwest of town, from 1755 until 1975. Ioannis spent his childhood here. The museum focuses on his life and possessions. Also, there are family heirlooms and furniture, giving you an excellent look into life in Corfu in the 1800s.
Venetian Arsenal, Gouvia – is just north of the city. The Venetians built it circa 1716 as part of their defenses against the Ottomans. The structure was an essential part of the Venetian defense until 1798, when the French abolished the Venetian Republic. Today, there are the brick bones of the structure. In the last few years, the Corfu government has finally begun renovations of the property.
Southwest Side
Gardiki Castle – is a 13th-century medieval (Byzantine) fortress with eight sides, on the southwestern coast of the island. It is one of three castles (Angelokastro, Kassiopi,) making an excellent defense system before the Venetian era. Not only does it defend the farmlands, but it also offers views of the sea south and west. All three castles require steep, uneven steps, paved and unpaved paths to reach them. There is no designated parking lot. I recommend you do not park in the cafe’s parking area unless you are eating.
Kaisers Throne – is a scenic lookout at the top of Pelekas Village. In the early 1900s, German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II was living in the Achilleion Palace. He would like to drive to Pelekas to watch the sunset. Today there is a small walkway offering a 360-degree panoramic view of the island, any time of the day.
Northwest Side
Paleokastritsa Area – seems to have more vacation accommodations every year. The area offers six suitable beaches with snorkeling and other water sports.
Monastery of Paleokastritsa – sits on a rocky hill overlooking Palaiokastritsa. It is a working monastery you can visit. There is a small chapel and a museum of religious items. The views are captivating over the jagged coast to the sea below.
Angelokastro – are the ruins of a Byzantine castle sitting at the top of the island’s highest shoreline peak. Approximately 1000 feet above the sea. This spot makes for a strategic vantage point with views for miles, making it the critical castle of the three. The views are fantastic for those able to do the climb.
North Side
Sidari – is a tourist area. Vacation apartments, studios, resorts, and the cafes and t-shirt shops that come with them. They even have a tourist attraction, which is worth seeing.
Canal D’Amour – seems to refer to the entire coast area these days. Sandstone rock formations create small bays with small secluded beaches. There are also caves and tunnels (Canal D’Amour tunnel) you can wade through. Best at high tide but beware of the rock shelf. Hard to believe, but Greek legend promises true love if you swim through the Canal. Swim, find love, jump off the rocks, or rent a beach chair.
NOTE: The ground is predominantly dry sandstone that can stain anything. The beach area is a short walk from the town. The tunnel is to the left (facing water) the canal to the right. Sunsets are incredible. Wear water socks or sneakers. (beater-sneakers) Also, for walking on the SAND stone, which can be slippery. I also recommend early morning or sunset. Afternoons can have super crowds.
The Folklore Museum of Acharavi – is a small museum with two main rooms. Exhibits include farming tools, an olive press, clothing, and other household items, many from the 1800s. A short stop while driving between the west coast and Kassiopi. Acharavi (Camari) is otherwise a tourist beach area.
Kassiopi Castle – is the third castle in the north, south, west defense. The forts in Corfu town were the eastern defense. Kassiopi, in the northeast, was a large enclosure, as is evident from the walls that remain. Unfortunately, the recycling of building supplies from the site and nature’s encroachment leave very little to see clearly.
Mount Pantokrator
The mountain is the highest on Corfu. (2972 feet). You can access the top by car along a narrow, paved but gravely road. The views from the top, on a clear day, are astounding if you can find a spot between the antenna. There are at least 3 billion of them. (It’s Greece, I’m tweaking the truth a little) in all shapes and sizes. But the views are impressive.
Monastery Of Pantokrator – is adjacent to the antenna. There is a small chapel you can visit. Covering knees and shoulders at any religious or memorial site is a sign of respect. There is a little cafe and gift shop as well.
Palea Peritheia (Old Perithia) is a heritage-protected site sitting on the north side of Mount Pantokrator. This ancient village is one of the last (and best) examples of a mountain village from a time long ago. Village records date back to the mid 14th century, although people were living here centuries before. At its peak, there were around 130 houses, built entirely by hand.
Unfortunately, several require restoration after years of sitting empty. The population was about 1,200 in the early 1900s. After the war, tourism began in the towns along the sea. A more natural lifestyle and steady paycheck drew many villagers down the hill.
Today, there are less than 100 residents. There are eight church buildings, seven tavernas, and one bed and breakfast in renovated old buildings.
You reach the village on a gravel road that leads off of the paved road up to the peak. Parking can be hard to find. It can be cooler this high on the mountain.
Beaches.
With more than 50 beaches on the island, there are beaches for all needs. You will find public beaches, deserted (no services) beaches and everything in between.
In addition to the ones in descriptions above (near sites), a few of the more popular are:
Kontokali – is close to town near the Gouvia marina. Large and sandy, with service, facilities, and water sports.
Gouvia Bay – is just north of town. It has no beaches; however, this protected bay is home to numerous water sports, including diving. It is also home to Gouvia Marina, a lovely small boat harbor. There is a long promenade for walking, with cafes on one side and docks on the other. Boat charters are also available.
West Coast
Ermones – is a deep bay with a small sandy beach. Despite a large resort above it, I did not see many guests on the beach when I was there (June.) The sand it a little rockier than I like, but that may also keep mobs away. Very scenic and doesn’t feel as touristy as other beaches, yet. Restaurants, bars, and shops in the warmer months.
Glyfada – has more sand than Ermones. It has more apartments and resorts, but there’s enough beach for everyone. I have never been there in July or August but hear it can be too crowded.
Arillas – is a resort area I like, probably for all the wrong reasons. It is not confining with a cafe on top of a taverna on top of a hotel. And there is little to no beach at high tide. Even at low tide, there’s barely room for four rows of beach chairs. There is a fair amount of shallow water deep enough to cover yourself if you sit. Sunsets here can be lovely. Just south is the village of Afionas, on a peninsula. Sunsets from its point, don’t suck.
Agios Georgios Pagon – is just south of Afionas. It is a vast beach, somewhat horseshoe in shape. This beach is another one that does not feel like it is cramped. Sure there are restaurants and shops, but they have space around them. There is a cluster of restaurants right on the beach towards the middle. Watersports and all the other services and facilities you would expect are available. I like this area in the offseason.
North Shore
Roda – ends and Acharavi (folk museum) beach begins, but not sure where the line is. Major beaches with water sports, restaurants, crowds, and bars. I recommend aqua shoes or beater sneakers.
Southwest
Halikounas – is another beach I like for all the wrong reasons. It is a sand bar that sticks up from the sea with the Korission lagoon behind it. It has minimal cafes that rent sunchairs. Facilities are basic. There are no motorized watersports or lifeguards. Think Miami Beach, now take away every building. There are remote areas, (apart from the chairs,) where topless and bottomless bathing occurs. If this offends you, stop looking. You can walk out 20 -30 feet in some places, and the water will be just over your knees. Note: There are tides and currents can be substantial.
At the south end, there is another cafe – bar with beach chairs. Here is an excellent place for kite-surfing, and rentals are available. The almost constant breeze is perfect for the kites. Sometimes it gets too breezy on the beach, so an extra towel to cover bare skin is a good idea.