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Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
CHIOS TODAY.
SHOULD SEE.
Sitting in the northern Aegean Sea, Chios is the fifth largest of the Greek islands. It is famous for its mastic gum which it exports. And there is a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the island. These two things alone should be reason enough to visit. But there is more.
Mythological Chios.
The poet Ion of Chios (circa 450 B.C.) says the island’s name comes from Poseidon.
While one of the nymphs he knocks up is giving birth, it snows. χιών chiōn is ancient Greek for “snow.” So they give the boy the name Chios.
Others say it is named after Chios, one of the 3000 daughters of Oceanus and Tethys, both Titans.
Ancient Chios.
Archaeological research shows evidence of habitation on the island dating back to the Neolithic era of the Stone Age. This theory comes from excavations at cave dwellings in the north of the island (Hagio Galas.) Additional information comes from a necropolis and settlement in modern-day Emporeio at the south end of the island.
Unfortunately, the sites give little specific information, and scientists must speculate as they know little about this period.
It appears that during the Neolithic era, everyone had the same status. For example, everyone participated in farming and livestock tending. Therefore, the uniformity and the size of the houses are the same.
The island has no evidence of inhabitation during the Middle Bronze Age (2300–1600B.C.) What is the meaning of this? Did the locals desert the island, or is there still much more to uncover on Chios?
Signs indicate a monarchy circa 11th century B.C. and possibly a transition into an aristocratic society sometime over the next four centuries. Unfortunately, evidence is lacking from this period. The Achaeans, circa 1300 B.C., and the Aeolians, circa 1100 B.C.) rule on nearby Lesvos. Did they make it to Chios?
Explorers uncover 9th-century ceramics from the islands of Euboea to the west and Cyprus to the east. Did these islands trade with Chios or conquer them?
Archaic to Classical Periods.
Historians know more about the island from 800 B.C. on. Circa 750 B.C. Chios is one of the original twelve member states of the Ionian League. The league’s main purpose was to join as a group against the Persians. Strength in numbers works and the cities enjoy peace and prosperity. Circa the end of the 7th century B.C., Chios is minting coins. They use a sphinx with a curled wing as its symbol. Beginning with gold, they would also produce silver coins. The sphynx remains as their symbol for almost 900 years.
Chios becomes a center for sculpting. Using white marble from Naxos, Chios sculptures became famous all over Greece, even doing statues for the Athen’s Acropolis. Possibly the first statue of Nike having wings is a sculpture by local artist Archermus. Around this time, Chios began creating vases that will pop up throughout the Greek empire. In addition, many believe it was on Chios that the Greeks began to solder metal for the first time.
By the 6th century B.C., Chios is booming. In addition to exporting their art, they also ship figs, grain, and mastic throughout the Mediterranian. Wine from Chios is one of their most popular exports.
To work the increasing wine production, Chios begins importing slaves from Asia Minor and areas further east. They become a major slave market, supplying slaves to other Greek ports.
The island adopts a system of governing under a constitution similar to the one in Athens. However, they develop democratic (demos means people) elements such as using a voting assembly. To counter-balance the assembly, they set up a group of damarchoi (people’s magistrates.) Records also indicate an education system for the children of free citizens.
Those Persians.
Unfortunately, the growing Persian menace overpowers the Ionian League circa 546 B.C. Chios and other islands fall under Persian control. Chios plays a major role in the Ionian Revolt circa 499 B.C.
Out of approximately 350 ships making up the Ionian navy, 100 of them are from Chios. Despite tough fighting over the next five years, the Ionian forces fall and are again subjected to Persian domination.
The Greko-Persian War continues on the mainland with troops from Sparta, Athens, and Corinth. Finally, circa 479, the Greek troops defeat the Persians at Mycale (modern-day Priene in Turkey. )
In 478 B.C., when the Athenians form the Delian League against the Persians, Chios joins. They are one of the few members who supply ships, avoiding paying tribute (yearly fees.)
Basing their assumptions on the large necropolis in Chios, experts place the island’s population around 120,000. This is circa 450 B.C.
During the Peloponnesian War (412 B.C.) Chios sides with Sparta against Athens. That does not work out well for Chios. Athens turns on Chios, and it will take Sparta over a year to come to their rescue.
Not learning from that, Chios joins the Second Athenian League circa 378 B.C. And again sides with Sparta (circa 356 B.C.) Finally, Athens exiles those not on their side. Many of these will not be able to return until circa 332.
Macedonia.
Alexander the Great visits circa 334 B.C., and the island and mainland become part of his Macedonian Empire. Alexander permits the exiled Chians to return. Theopompus of Chios is one of these exiles. Studying under Isocrates, he becomes an orator and a Greek historian. In addition to political and military history, he would focus on day-to-day Greece in his writings. Perhaps his most famous work is a 58 book series on Philip, Alexander’s father.
During the land grab by Alexander’s generals after his “mysterious” death, Ptolemies seizes most of the Eastern Aegean.
The Roman Empire arrives circa 88 B.C., on their real estate conquest. They conquer and move on.
Less Ancient.
The Romans rule over Chios, Greece, and most of Turkey for the next 400+ years. As Chios produces good wine, it receives favor from the Romans.
According to the book of Acts, Paul the Apostle and Luke the Evangelist passed through Chios. This was circa 55 A.D., during Paul’s third missionary journey. Traveling from Ephesus to Macedonia, they stopped at the island.
When Constantine moves his capital to Byzantium and renames it Constantinople, a tremor goes through the empire. However, Chios remains a healthy Roman colony due to its maritime prowess and wine.
Circa1090 A.D., the Turks temporarily seize the region of Smyrna (Izmir) and some islands along the Aegean coast. Eventually, the Byzantines can drive off the Turks circa 1096 with help from soldiers of the First Crusade.
Unfortunately, the Roman Empire continues to slowly crumble until 1204, when Spanish forces sack Constantinople under the disguise of Crusaders.
Saracen and Latins successively occupy Asia Minor and the islands. The islands fall into a roulette of owners, with the Republic of Venice taking control of Chios a few years later.
However, by 1225, the Nicaea, siding with the Byzantines against the Latins, can regain control. Unfortunately, the Byzantine Empire is a shadow of its former self.
The Nicaea Empire sides with Genoa. Circa 1261, authority over Chios, several other islands, and the Turkish coast goes to The Republic of Genoa.
Due to the strength of the Genoa navy, Chios puts up with their newest owner. They keep the island safe from pirates.
The Turks Return.
Circa 1303 A.D., the Turks are back, and the Byzantines reconquer Chios as a defense. Those siding with the Genovese attempt to turn the island to the Latin and Papal side. However, those loyal to the byzantine win out and by 1329 expel most of the Genovese.
In 1346, the Genovese are back with funding from a group of Italian investors named the Maona. They control Chios but allow local landowners to keep their privileges as long as they pay the Maona. The Genovese would manage the trading posts and warehouses for their cut. The Maona had no interest in running any other part of Chios. Therefore, the locals could work, play, pray as they wished. This odd relationship will last until the return of the Turks.
The Ottoman Period.
Although the Ottomans return with larger forces circa 1460, they will not seize Chios until 1566. Similar to the Maona, the Ottomans do not want to manage Chios. They just want the revenue. As long as Chios pays its yearly fees, the Ottomans pretty much leave it alone. Jews fleeing the Spanish inquisition settle on the islands where they are free to worship. The Chios mastic industry benefits everyone.
When the Greek War of Independence breaks out circa 1821, there are many on Chios not sure who to back. A year later, armed Greek soldiers from nearby Samos land on Chios. Chios takes up the cause. Almost immediately, the Ottomans land large forces and put down the revolt in the Massacre of Chios. Thousands die, and many become slaves. The Ottomans also do considerable damage to the mastic areas.
The New State of Greece.
With the establishment of the Modern Greek State in1832, the borders include the mainland and Peloponesse. However, Chios, as well as many of the Aegean Islands, will remain under Ottoman control.
Like before, the Ottomans leave the locals alone as long as they pay their dues. So Chios begins building an impressive marine and shipping industry. And with the shipping came the other industries to support it, such as marine insurance. Even an 1881 earthquake that destroys much of the island and kills thousands only slowed them briefly.
In 1912, the Balkan countries struck against the Ottomans. Greece sides with the victors and receives several islands as its reward. The following year Bulgaria turns on its allies. The outcome of these two wars is Greece acquiring southern Epirus, Greek Macedonia, Crete, and the Aegean islands. This includes Chios. The Dodecanese will remain under Italian rule until the end of WWII.
The island will go through changes during the population exchange when the Greco–Turkish War ends circa 1922. Greeks living in Turkey and Turks in Greece must go home. More than a million Greeks, most living along the Aegean coast of Turkey, migrate to Greece. Chios being only a few miles off the Turkish coast, receives many of them.
At the end of WWII, Greece plunges into the Greek Civil War. Eventually, with the backing of the U.K. and U.S.A., the Greek government army beats the KKE. The KKE is the military branch of Greece’s Communist Party.
After the Second World War, Chios, like most islands and small towns, loses its population. As a result, young people move to Athens to find a better living.
Chios Today.
The economy and the population of Chios are much smaller today. The current population is less than 40,000, down from a previous number of well over 100,000.
Mastic continues to be the major export from the island, although a 2012 forest fire destroyed numerous groves. Agriculture and the shipping of its products employ the largest number of residents. Tourism is quite small in comparison to other islands.
Chios, like the rest of Greece, suffers when the Greek economy plunges circa 2007. Unfortunately, like the rest of Greece, their rebound has been slow.
Chios again becomes a major gateway from Turkey beginning in 2015. Refugees and asylum seekers fleeing the Middle East arrive by the boatload trying to access the European Union. When the other European countries close their borders in 2016, Greece does not. Chios, Samos, and Lesvos, all adjacent to the Turkish coast, have more than 40,000 refugees at the height. The strain on the already weak economy is devastating. By 2021, many refugees are now living on the mainland of Greece or other European countries. On Chios, there are less than 1000 refugees, and the government and U.N. are helping to support them.
What is in Chios for me?
See & Hear.
For an island not on the main tourist routes, it has numerous museums. And the mastic villages are a treat for the eyes.
While away an afternoon exploring one or two of them. Or find a leafy park and sit and listen to island life around you.
Taste & Smell.
Chios has an interesting mixture of traditional cuisine thanks to its many captors. Pasta from Genoa and spices from the Ottomans mix with the local spin on them. And pair it with local wine or a glass of Mastika.
Feel.
It is somewhat hard to explain the feeling you get arriving in Chios. You can arrive by plane. There is an airport just south of town. But most people arrive by ferry. The harbor area has the travel offices and drug stores you find in any other Greek port. And yet, it feels different. Maybe because the harbor is so long? It does not have the frantic energy of other ports. Things return to normal as soon as the ferry leaves. They appreciate tourism, but they don’t battle over the visitors. It’s a nice feeling.
Find a sidewalk taverna along the harbor and enjoy a glass of local wine. Watch and listen to the island life going on around you. It has a different tempo. There may be better ways to spend a leisurely afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Chios
Castle of Chios.
Dating from the Byzantines around the 10th Century A.D., the current structure is predominantly from the Genoese period 14-16th century.
Saint George’s Church.
On Aghiou Georgiou street, inside the castle, dates from circa 10-11th century. In 1566, the western part became part of the Ottoman Eski (Old) Mosque.
Justinian (Giustiniani) Palace.
Just inside the main gate of the castle is this two-story stone building. Then, it was more of an administrative center for the Genoese than a palace. Today, it occasionally serves as an exhibit hall for Antiquities.
The Dark Prison.
The black iron doors to the right of the palace lead to a former prison or holding area for prisoners. I have never seen it open to the public.
Turkish Baths.
Also within the castle, at the north end, are these ruins from the 18th century. The site is open to exploring.
Homerion Cultural Center.
This is a typical cultural center. What is neat is that the center offers workshops to young adults. These are in traditional Painting, Sculpture, Theater, Traditional Dances, and others. So they are preserving their traditions.
Archaeological Museum of Chios.
South of the harbor is this amazing museum. The collection includes items from the Neolithic Era through Roman times. Artifacts come from the ancient sites of Aghio Galas, Dotia, Emporio, Fana, and Chios town.
Chios Byzantine Museum.
Sitting inside the former Ottoman Mecidiye mosque from the 1800s, the museum has Byzantine and Christian sculptures. There are also pieces from the Genoese, Ottoman, and Jewish occupations.
Chios Maritime Museum.
This impressive museum includes paintings, models, photographs, books, maps, and even artifacts from different vessels.
Metropolitan Church of Saint Victors.
Dating from 1838, it replaces a Genoese church burnt down in the 1822 massacre. It is the island’s cathedral but not the largest church.
Municipal Art Gallery.
This interesting collection is in the former building of the old Municipal Baths. Painting by current and past Chios painters, and a few sculptures, show you a different angle on Chios.
Koris Gefyri (Maidens Bridge) Aqueduct.
Just outside Chios town to the west are the remains of this small aqueduct. Possibly from the Roman times and definitely rebuilt during the Byzantine times. Due to safety reasons, you can only see it from a distance.
Anemomiloi (The 3 Mills).
North of the castle, along the coast, are these four windmills, although they refer to them as the three. Dating from the Genoese occupation (circa 1346-1566), they were part of this area’s leather tanneries (tampakika).
Saint Isidore of Sykiada Chios.
A short walk west from the four windmills is the ruins of this early Christian basilica. The crypt of St Isidore and St Myrope was underneath a 7th-century church. The church had at least five periods of later architectural styles on it. Isidore was a Roman naval officer who confessed himself a Christian while on Chios. For not repenting, the Romans beheaded him and threw him in a cistern. Myrope, a Christian woman, recovers the body and gives it a proper burial. Unfortunately, she is arrested and dies in prison. Their relics are now in St Mark’s Basilica in Venice.
Vrondados.
Just north of Chios Town is this maritime village. Its history with the sea may go back to the time of Homer. Possibly Christopher Columbus studied here circa 1490 (Genoese period) before sailing the ocean blue. Shipowners from this village played a large part in Chios’s contribution to the Greek Revolution. Two additional windmills overlook its small boat harbor. There is a small folklore museum near the windmills.
Sanctuary of Cybele – Daskalopetra (Homer’s Rock).
Just north of Vrondados is this “stone of the teacher.” Legend says that Homer sat here and narrated his poems to students. Whether Homer was a person or a group of storytellers, the view from here is nice.
Daskalopetra is also near the beginning of several walking or biking trails. Check with the local tourism office for maps.
Central Chios.
Nea Moni of Chios.
A short drive west of Chios town is this 11th-century monastery that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It shares this status along with the Monasteries of Daphni and Hosios Loukas (in other locations in Greece.) The churches share the same aesthetic characteristics, including a cross-in-square plan and an octagonal altar area with a large dome.
Abandoned Village of Anavatos.
The town, a 20-minutes drive north of Nea Moni, sits on a hilltop. The town is almost completely deserted since many of the inhabitants were killed in the 1822 massacre. The small church is under constant renovations. Some call the village the “Mystra of the North Aegean.”
The Church of Panaghia Krina.
This 12th-century church near Vavyli village is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Part of the structure dates from the 18th century. Some paintings inside date to the 13th century.
North Chios.
Virgin Mary Myrtidiotissa Monastery.
On the east shore, between the highway and the cliffs, is this monastery. It is a few minutes north of Vrondados. It began as a church circa 1900. Then, as more monks arrived, they had to build a monastery around the church.
Saint Isidore of Sykiada.
This small chapel is 15-minutes north of the monastery. Legend says this is the spot where Agios (saint) Isidoros landed when coming from Egypt. Saint Isidore would establish the Christian faith on the island. The church dates from the 1700s.
Castle of Gria.
Approximately 30 minutes further north from the monastery is the Castle of the old lady (Gria). Part of two towers and a wall connecting them is all that remains. The turnoff has no markings on the main road, and the hike is predominately up. I cannot see the ruins from the curvy main road. However, the views from the ruins can be excellent.
Castle of Oria
On the north end of the island, about 50 minutes drive from Gria, are the remains of this small castle. Also, with no signage, get directions before leaving. You can drive closer than Gria, but there is less to see. Parts of a wall extending from the rock here and there. The small chapel of Agia Paraskevi may sit where the main fortress may have been.
Chios Wine.
Mythology says the son of Dionysus (Greek wine god) brings winemaking to Chios. It is a popular wine of the Romans. Today, the island’s wines have P.G.I. Chios status.
Ariousios Winery.
The winery is in the northwest corner of the island. It is another hour’s drive from Oria Castle. A more direct route from Chios town is approximately 80 minutes. The winery is closed on Mondays. Reservations are a good idea on all of the Greek islands.
Ktima Kefala Winery.
30 minutes south of Ariousios is this winery. They also accept guests, but a reservation is required. Click the orange links for more information.
Palia Potamia.
Halfway between the two wineries is the ghost town of Potamia. You reach it from Nea (new) Potamia. The last time I saw the one blue sign indicating the dirt road to the old town, it was backward. The one-lane road is bumpy and maybe not for all rental cars. The residents first moved to Old Potamia circa 1600 to escape pirates. Then, circa 1961, they began moving to Nea Potamia. The old village has been vacant since 1964.
West Chios
Moundon Monastery.
Once one of the most important monasteries on the island, it was destroyed by the Ottomans. Today, the empty site contains some monk cells, chapels, and a domed portico. Someone, possibly a monk, repaired some of the frescos circa 1849. Visiting the Monastery of Moundon requires stopping in the village of Diephas, nearby. Here, you need to ask who has the keys to the monastery.
The castle of Volissos.
Approximately 20 minutes further west from the monastery are the ruins of this castle. It is easy to see approaching the village, so signage is not as important. However, it still requires hiking the last 100 yards. The walls and towers, rebuilt by the Genoans circa 15th-century, are relatively good for their age. They are on top of walls dating from at least 400 years earlier.
The Monastery of Agia Markella.
Agia Markella is the patron saint of Chios. She lived on Chios in the 14th century. Her father, trying to force her to give up her Christianity, chops off her head. Where he does this, a fresh water spring has been flowing ever since.
South Chios
Citrus Museum.
Just south of the airport is this interesting museum on a 1742 estate. The museum includes a 23-minute film of the citrus industry’s history. Unfortunately, the excellent gift shop selling local fruit products may be a victim of COVID.
Perleas Estate.
Also, in the Kampos area, this citrus estate is another view of old-time Chios. Today, the main house is a luxury boutique hotel.
Agios Minas Monastery.
Dating from circa 1580, this monastery, less than 10 minutes from the Citrus Museum, is in Neochori. It is here, in 1822, that the Ottomans massacred more than 50,000 Chians during the Greek War of Independence. Today, the stone floors of the chapel still show bloodstains. This will begin the Chioten Diaspora, where maybe 20,000 Chians flee the island and settle elsewhere.
Folcloric Museum of Kallimasia. (website in Greek only).
Less than 10 minutes from Agios Minas monastery is this interesting museum. In the basement of a high school, they have recreated a traditional stone village. Each room represents a different store or house. These include an olive mill, ouzo distillery, shoemaker, tailor, flour mill, carpenter, and more. More than 5000 artifacts are spread out through these rooms. It is one of the best Greek folklore museums.
Aegean Botanical Garden.
Less than 20-minutes south of the Folkloric Museum and next to the monastery of Agios Tryfon, the gardens are in Nenita. On hillside terraces, there are more than 22,000 plants native to the region. It is popular for weddings and baptisms.
Chios Mastic Museum.
A 30-minute drive west from the gardens brings you to an interesting museum to Chios’ most famous export. The area around the museum is the only place the Mastic Tree is cultivated in the Mediterranian. The museum explains mastiha, the resin from the tree, its history, and its place today. Discover why UNESCO includes Chios Mastic on its Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list.
Pyrgi.
The closest village to the museum, Pyrgi, is one of the Mastic Villages and part of the UNESCO Intangible listing. Some call it the “Painted Village” due to the black and white decorations on the houses. You will find these predominantly in the central (pedestrian) part of town. So strap on those walking shoes; it is worth it.
Cave of Olimpi.
This cave, near the coast, about 15 minutes west of Pyrgi, is unique as it is still active. They keep the stalagmites and stalactites are in a controlled environment allowing the continued growth. Although not huge, the yellow, red, and white interior is worth seeing.
Vigla of Pachi.
One of the island’s medieval watchtowers (vigla) is visible from the village of Trachilia, 20-minutes west of the cave. Built by the Genovese, there may have been as many as 50 towers circling the island. The towers were approximately 40 feet high, on the tops of hills, and 3-4 miles apart. The remains of 35 are still present, and 24 of these rate as monuments. The tower is high up on the hill. Climbing to it would be hot and dangerous.
Mesta.
This 12th-century Byzantine-era town is also one of the Mastic Villages. It is on the road between the cave and Vigla. The architecture and narrow streets are part of the defense from pirate raids. The Genoese strengthen the fortifications circa 1400.
The New Church of Taxiarchis.
This church, sitting in the center of Mesta, dates from 1412. They enlarge it circa 1794. A lot of villagers were killed during the 1822 Chios massacre. The Turks do irreplaceable damage to the older part of the church. Visit the church if for no other reason than to see the walnut Icon screen.
Beaches.
Like many beaches in Greece, many of the Chios beaches are more rock than sand. This varies from small pebbles to rocks large enough to climb on. I recommend shoes or water socks just about everywhere in Greece.
Karfas beach.
South of the airport, this is one of the largest and busiest beaches on the island. It is a full-service beach, with many hotels nearby. Fortunately, it seems to have more sand than pebbles.
Agia Fotini.
Further down the coast is this full-service beach. A paved promenade separates the rocky beach from the tavernas. Due to the local clubs, the beach fills will party-goers by afternoon.
Agia Dynami Beach.
Just beyond the cave is this small but lovely beach under the monastery by the same name. Worth a photo stop if you are visiting the cave. There is sand, very little shade, and no services, so bring everything you need.
Mavra Volia (Volcano Beach).
Just outside the village of Emporios on the south shore, this volcanic pebble beach is trendy. Unfortunately, there are no services, and the rocks get blistering hot mid-summer. I like it better for a photo than for sunning or swimming.
Lithi Beach.
Approximately a 50-minutes drive west of Chios Town, this village on the west coast is charming. The beach is sandy with pebbles and small stones. There are sunbeds for rent and tavernas nearby. If you are looking for fresh seafood by the sea, this is one of the best places on the island.
Trachili beach.
Just to the north of Lithi, this unorganized beach (no services) is a great photo opportunity. On the hill just beyond it, you can see one of the watchtowers.
Islands.
Another option, if you are staying for a few days, is a day trip to one of the local islands.
Oinousses Islands.
This group of small islands off the north coast only has one with a village on it. Oinousses is home to many sea captains. To this day, they seem to be the largest contributors to the island’s economy. Tourism is not. There are several rooms and apartments for rent, but no hotels or resorts. This is great. The only other people at the taverna are locals. That means the food has to be right.
Navy Museum of Oinousses.
With little tourism, you do not expect much out of a museum on this small island. However, if you have an interest in maritime history, you will be happily surprised here. The collection includes ship models, cutaway models, naval instruments, documents, paintings, and more explaining the naval tradition of Oinousses. The museum closes early afternoon, so plan a morning visit.
Cesme.
Cesme is on a peninsula but is far from being an island. It is on the mainland of Turkey in Asia Minor. Although a different continent from Europe, Cesme is actually closer to Chios than any of the large Greek islands. Approximately seven miles away. Ferries usually run between Cesme and Chios Town once in the morning and once at night in the summer.
As the mainland and islands went back and forth as part of Greece, then Turkey, they share much in common.
Cesme alone is interesting, especially the museum. An hour’s drive from Cesme is Izmir (Smyrna in antiquity) and all it offers, including Ancient Smyrna. From Izmir, Ancient Pergamon to the north, and Ephesus to the south are less than a 90-minutes drive.
Chios Summary.
Just visiting Chios is enough to fill 2-3 days. However, the north end requires almost a day and the south another due to distances between sites.
Ferries run between Chios and Lesvos, Samos or Pireaus, although the latter is 8-10 hours. Thus, it is easy to attach Chios to a Northern Aegean itinerary.
So what are you waiting for?